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"So far, so good. The work was completed quickly and on time. My house is noticably more comfortable. Hopefully my electric and gas bills will be much more under" control since the work was done. seems to be very trustworthy and knowledgeable about building, budgets, and insulation.

-David H.

"The visit was pleasant but I never received any information on what he accessed for my home. I called two months after the visit and asked for an assesment and was" told that I would receive something that same week. It has since been 4 months now and still nothing.

-Tommy N.

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Local Articles in Saint Louis

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

foundation installation

Insulating the outside of your foundation can help lower energy bills and keep your house warmer in winter.

Radiant barrier in attic

HVAC systems work more efficiently with the addition of a reflective barrier as part of your attic insulation.

Angie's Answers


Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Saint Louis


Technician, too big, could not access the area. A second smaller technician was necessary. Then the company could not match our schedule. We were required to take vacation. We declined.

and, his assistant, showed up on time. was the lead installer and was learning the ropes. and were in and out of the attic. fed the cellulose into the machine while ...More shot the insulation into the attic. Both men were friendly and courteous. I have no complaints about their work. was the salesman who came to our house and talked to us about our insulation needs. was very knowledgeable. He also talked about how long it would take to recoup in energy cost savings the money invested in insulation. There was no high pressure sales tactics. Just straight honest talk.
- Albert A.

First : I was concerned with the negative reviews .So i contacted them and asked for an explanation ..I was satisfied with what they had to say ..and I thought their honesty was refreshing
My electric bills were 2 times more than my neighbors
2) i scheduled a home assessment .. and even though we had a schedule change communictaion was ...More always good
3) after assessment they suggested $5000 plus in upgrades , but gave no pressure to use their service ..I researched the cost of DYI vs. using them and consulted with Ameren to advise ..I decided was about 25% more than doing the job myself and was satisfied that was worth not doing the job myself
4) but I saved a little by doing the easiest job myself ...Insulating my open basement rim joists
5) The workers were quick /clean/courteous/and professional ...THEY CLEANED AFTER THEMSELVES !!!
6) Work was complete and I am 100% satisfied
I have waited a few months to see if my energy costs went down (before reviewing) ... It is hard to accurately quantify savings ...but in comparison to neighbors it seems to have a 35-40% reduction in electric use during warmer months ...That said I would still have a few years to break even with cost of insulation ...BUT the comfort level in our house was well worth the costs ..We used to have a warm upstairs and used a a/c window unit to keep up ..We no longer need window a/c and everyone is happier and house temps are more moderate on each level
Final assessment : It was expensive but well worth it and was a very good provider of advise and services
- bryson H.

It went great. They were very professional in setting up the appointment. They sent out a specialist ahead of time to scope out the territory. They sent out two technicians to do the work. The next day a lady called from the office to follow up and ask about how everything worked out. I was impressed with the overall experience.
- Ernst K.

The company gave us a bid in December, and honored it when we called them back in June (in fact, the final cost was less than quoted). They arrived promptly with a team of about five people and worked hard all day. Everything was cleaned up perfectly afterwards. We are very pleased with the work and their professionalism. Looking foward to this ...More winter to seeing how much of a difference it makes in our drafty home, which I feel certain it will.
- LIZ M.

The Petersons are very experienced professionals and did a home energy evaluation to see where energy was being lost unnecessarily. Our attic was a big surprise and fixing the insulation issue there made a huge difference. Thank you !
- Sandra S.

After purchasing a Deal for a home energy audit, and his wife came on the scheduled day and checked the house for air loss to the outside. They sealed the front door with a plastic 'door' with an exhaust fan to pull in cooler outside air. They then took pictures with a camera that showed cold/hot areas.After inspecting ...More attic and basement he made several suggestions as well as promising to send an estimate of work. After I received that I eliminated some work that could be done by family and agreed to the rest. A date was set and the workers came promptly on that day.
There were 4 workers and each of them was courteous, friendly and competent. Work was explained and I was kept informed of
everything that was done. They were dog friendly and cautious about closing gates while working.
At the end of the job mentioned one thing that he had not bid but that needed to be done to bring everything up to code. He said he would have his crew come by and take care of it at no cost when they were in the area. This was done a week or so later. I have confidence that this is an honorable company that stands behind their work and word.
- Margarett E.

They provided all the items contracted for and retested the house, which should result in energy savings. They were all very nice and the owner was very responsive in making sure the job went well.
- Paul N.

Insulation Contractors in Saint Louis

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!


Saint Louis

123 Exteriors Inc

2240 S Brentwood Blvd

5 Star Construction

1964 farm valley dr

A & A Solutions LLC

478 Wildwood pkwy

A & T Construction

1957 Royal Heir Dr
O Fallon

AAA Remodeling Company

204 Little Bussen Dr

Abernathy Development Company

300 Hunter Avenue
Saint Louis


175 Valley Springs Rd

Adare Remodeling LLC

208 forest path dr
Saint Peters

Addict Insulation, LLC

90 Pembrook Drive
Saint Charles


1555 Kisker Road
Saint Charles

Al's Handyman Service

1319 McCausland Ave
St. Louis

Alcazar Construction Inc.

430 S. Clinton St.

all around carpentry

4944 Southwest Ave
Saint Louis

Amazing Siding Corp of Missouri

255 Old State Rd

Amco Ranger Termite & Pest Solutions

4524 S. St. Peters Pkwy
Saint Peters



American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Andrew Johnson's Construction & Remodeling LLC

7220 N Lindbergh Blvd

Andy Man Thee Handy Man LLC

25960 Pendleton Forest Rd

Anton's Air Conditioning and Heating

8826 New Hampshire Ave
Saint Louis

Arch City Property Services

2700 S. Jefferson #58633
Saint Louis

Associated Building Crafts, LLC

1498 Highway K
Saint Clair


221 Robert Ave
Saint Louis

B & B Masonary Foam Insulation

520 Michael

Ballard Acoustics LLC

61 E. Homefield Pt. Ct.
O Fallon




4517 Ridgewood Ave
Saint Louis

Blatz Mechanical, LLC

PO Box 568
Saint Charles

BOLT Construction & Roofing

748 Hanley Industrial Ct
Saint Louis

Bone Dry Roofing Inc - St Louis

11368 Dorsett Rd
Maryland Heights


1119 Merriam Lane

BRC Builders

PO Box 1254

Brian's Plumbing Services LLC

116 Turf Ct
Saint Louis


629 Sessions Ave
Saint Louis

Britt & Sons Contracting and Roofing Co.

6907 Minnesota Ave.
Saint Louis

Carter's Professional Services

11821 Northport Dr

CBI Construction

204 E Holden
Saint Louis

CCR LLC Remodeling & Woodworking

832 Tuxedo Blvd
Saint Louis

Charles Contracting Inc

2524 Reav Tel Ct
Saint Louis

Classic Aire Care Inc

1276 N Warson
St Louis

Climate Masters Inc

8027 Big Bend
Saint Louis

CMG Construction & Remodeling

6311 Ronald Reagan Drive, #126
Lake Saint Louis

Colgate Design+Build

12444 Powerscourt Dr.
Saint Louis

Competitive Contracting, LLC

4877 Oldenburg Avenue
Saint Louis

Curran Construction and Contracting

2490 Lindsay Lane


Maryland Heights



Danna Enterprises LLC

1900 Grand Army Rd

Dunn Home Improvements LLC

5201 Lakewood Ave
Saint Louis

Elite Renovations LLC

11355 Inverness Ln
Maryland Heights

Emerald Construction & Remodeling LLC

124 Hickory Trails Dr
Wright City

Energy View Windows

7220 N Lindbergh Blvd

Evans Remodeling

317 Hannah Dr

Exactly Cleaning & Contracting

2745 Westphalia Ct.
Saint Louis

Exquisite Homes LLC

8816 Manchester Rd
Saint Louis

Ferguson Roofing

5814 Garfield Avenue
Saint Louis

Fivestone Foundations

915 Benton Street

FM Exteriors Inc.

7909 Big Bend Blvd
St. Louis

G & G Contracting

36 Elmtree Dr

G&S Construction

10236 Surf Dr
Saint Louis


Saint Louis

Gateway Construction Solutions

1033 Corporate Square Drive
St. Louis

GENNARO General Contracting

Saint Louis

Get it Done

7045 Lena Ave
Saint Louis

Get It Done Inc

12831 Bourbon Red Dr
Saint Louis

GHL Handymen LLC

20 Sunny Hill BLVD
St. Peters


Lake Saint Louis

Goley Insulation Inc

1707 Bluffview Dr

Green World Solutions

7 Count Fleet Circle

Greener Construction Svc

6290 Ronald Reagan Dr
Lake Saint Louis

Gregory Building Services

13765 St. Charles Rock Road


3030 HWY 94 S
Saint Charles

Handyman Connection

1736 W Park Center Drive


12096 Tangletree Dr
Saint Louis


Saint Charles

Home Sweet Home Productions

7311 Lohmeyer Ave
Saint Louis

Honey-Do's Done

3376 Piazza Ln

Hour Glass Remodeling

3313 Kentucky Rd

Indoor Comfort Team

2613 Telegraph Rd
Saint Louis


Saint Louis


Saint Louis


Saint Louis


Saint Louis

Integrity Home Solutions

4670 Mexico Rd
Saint Peters

J & J Siding And Window Sales Inc

600 Cepi Dr

J P Frisch Construction Svc Inc

3424 Cambridge Ave
Saint Louis

J&C Construction LLC

1304 Sandalwood Dr

JHR Construction Services

3297 Bridgewater Dr

JK Consulting

223 Salt Lick Rd. Suite 333
St. Peter's

JK Consulting

3425 New Town Blvd
St. Charles

JM Construction

238 Woodland Dr

JMS Contractor

2411 Prouhet Ave
Saint Louis

JNM Carpentry LLC

3123 Woodbridge Dr
Saint Charles

John Bender Exteriors

Saint Louis

Ken's Demolition and Drywall

7596 hwy 61/67

Kincade Construction

37 W Acton Ave

Lakeside Exteriors

139 Chesterfield Industrial Blvd

Le Beau Custom Painting

921 W Park Rd

Lowe's Of Chesterfield

290 Thf Blvd

Luxe Painting

417 Sunnyside

M.A. Enterprises

336 Magoffin Trails Court

Main Line Custom Builders

57 Downing Ave
Maryland Heights


Saint Louis

MAZE Contracting LLC

131 E. Rose Ave.
Webster Groves

MCC Cleaning & Restoration

8 Country Hill Rd
St Peters

McGlynn Pros

128 Enchanted Pkwy

McMen Services

3824 birch dr.

Metro Restoration

7733 Forsyth Blvd. Suite 1144
Saint Louis

Meyer Contracting

2159 Welsch Industrial Ct.
Saint Louis

Meyer Contracting, LLC

2159 Welsch Industrial Ct.
Saint Louis

Mid-America Insulation & Supply

407 Edinger Road

Midstate Contractors LLC

8991A Commercial Blvd.

Midwest Insulation

12130 Prichard Farm Road
Maryland Heights

Mike's Toolbox sp

3512 Tennessee Ave.
Saint Louis




1835 Scherer Pkwy
Saint Charles

Missouri Pest Control

6728 Armistead Ct

Moran 3 LLC

St. Louis

Morganco Remodeling

2025 Zumbehl RD
Saint Charles

Mosby Building Arts Ltd

645 Leffingwell Avenue
Saint Louis

New Transitions LLC

417 Droste Rd
Saint Charles

Norse Construction, LLC

476 Old Smizer Mill Rd

O'fallon Quality Improvements

171 Teekay Blvd
O Fallon

Olneya Restoration Group

1887 Craig Road
Saint Louis

Outside-In Construction

501 Chele Dr
Saint Charles

PM Solutions LLC

4420 S. Compton Ave
Saint Louis

Premier Handyman Contractors, LLC

3687 Wilmington
Saint Louis

Pro-Bilt, Inc

3358 Briarwood Manor Dr

Prodigy Restoration Group LLC

100 Chesterfield Business Pkwy

Promax LLC

100 Chesterfield Business Pkwy

R & R Improvements

4315 Morgan Ford Rd
Saint Louis

R-Value Pros

18118 Chesterfield Airport Rd

Radical Painting

106 Mill Pond Dr
O Fallon

Rapid Response Roofing & Contracting

2480 Executive Dr
St Charles

RB Contracting

5403 Quincy St.
Saint Louis

RC Home Services

10 Oakwood Ln
Saint Louis

Reese Contracting LLC

648 Village Square dr.

REHAB Construction

3 Warson Lane
Saint Louis

Reliable Remodeling

1817 Main Dr.
High Ridge

Richards Roofing & Exteriors Inc

344 Leffingwell Ave
St. Louis

Ridge Top Exteriors Inc

717 Rue Saint Francois St

Rinebold Renovations LLC

8 foxfield court
St Charles

RingCo Construction L.L.C.

5224 Autumnwinds Dr
Saint Louis

Robinson Realty, LLC

1832 Vandalia St


Saint Louis

Roof One Restoration

10406 Manchester Rd

Roofing & Exterior Renovations LLC

1270 Jungermann Rd
Saint Peters

Rottler Pest & Lawn Solutions - St Louis

2690 Masterson Ave
Saint Louis

S & J Home Solutions

10608 Canter Way
Saint Louis

Shackelford Custom Homes & Remodeling

4730 Fox Mountain Rd

Shield Property Solutions

PO Box 22481
Saint Louis

Show-Me Floors & More, Inc.

6403 Old Antonia

Siding Repair Systems

112 Mariae Ln


Saint Louis

Signature Exteriors

2025 Zumbehl Rd
Saint Charles

Simon Construction Co

8503 Mid County Industrial Dr
Saint Louis

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

SmartHouse (formerly Home Green Home)

2138 Woodson Rd
Saint Louis

SNS Contracting LLC

1098 Calobe Dr.

Snyder's Construction

3930 Randall St
Saint Louis

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street


8011 Bennett Avenue
Saint Louis

St Louis Insulation

2127 Innerbelt Business Ctr Dr
St Louis

Storm Shield

7 The Pines Ct
St Louis

Stotler Construction & Carpentry

3331 Royal Domain Dr
Saint Charles


Saint Louis

Sugar Creek Remodeling LLC

114 Waverly Pl
Saint Louis

SuperDave The Handyman

310 W Felton Ave.
Saint Louis

Tate Home Improvements, LLC

4850 Ste B
Saint Louis

Taylor & Sons

Lake Saint Louis


2188 Welsch Industrial Ct
Saint Louis

The Donkey Fault Company

8218 Albin Ave
Saint Louis

The English Property Maintenance Co LLC

2426 Creve Coeur Mill Rd
Maryland Heights

The Flat Roof Company

11330 Olive Blvd
Saint Louis

The Golden Hammer

6130 Louisiana Ave
St. Louis

The Green House

Saint Louis


Saint Louis

Tiller & Snyder LLC

1006 Osage St
St Charles

Toplevel Foundation Services

1220 Horine Rd

Trapper Joe's Nuisance Wildlife Control

7663 Hillsboro House Springs Rd

Twardowski Construction and Remodeling, LLC

106 Chestnut Ridge Drive
Wright City

Two Nice Guys Termite & Pest Control

PO Box 515026
Saint Louis

Unique Heating and Cooling

2015 S. Big Bend Blvd.
Saint Louis

Unique Home Improvements LLC

423 North 6th street

Universal Windows Direct

1704 Muegge Rd.
Saint Charles

Unlimited Exteriors

2541 whitewater ct

UpKeepers Inc

503 Autumn Oaks Dr

Valenti, Installations

472 Bethany Ct.

Village Builders


VMG Enterprise

11766 Lusher Rd
Saint Louis

Votum Thermography

3422 Clearfield Lane
St. Charles


12637 S 265 W Suite 100


34 Front St
Valley Park

Webb Contracting

5253 Darkmoor Ln


Saint Louis


1947 Gravois Ave
Saint Louis

Wet 1 Tile

2290 Parton Way

Wildlife Command Center

3820 Red Bud Drive

Wildwood Roofing & Exteriors

10 Strecker Rd


PO Box 405

Window World

13892 St Charles Rock Rd

Wit Construction, LLC

PO Box 4034

Womack Construction

3749 Rue St
Saint Charles

Young Innovations

5235 Butler Hill Estates Drive
Saint Louis

Zerman Restoration LLC

102 Meadowbrook Country Club Estates

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