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A
"I found myself in need of an after hours electrician due to a short in my wiring which affected my power on the hottest day of the year. I called several companies" but was impressed with the promptness in which my call was taken (not sure if this was an answering service or not which says something), what I felt was the lack of price gouging for an after hours call, and the general service I received. The technician was responsive and professional after a very long day full of emergencies. He troubleshooted my power, determined the issue, made it safe and took the time to make sure everything was back up and running properly. I would highly recommend
.

-Tamara Z.

A
"On a hot Monday in
I contacted
at 4:30 after having irregular power outages. With the refrigerator & AC not operable" & Ameren finding no issue on their end I decided it was indeed time to call an electrician Though the end of the business day was approaching Bill personally took my call & made the trip to our home. After inspecting the breaker box & assessing the issue Bill was able to remedy the problem in short order. He also took the time to look over other & advice on additional areas of potential electrical concern. Excellent service & professionalism in addition to being very personable. Thanks Bill.

-NATHANIEL K.

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Local Articles in Saint Louis

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

ambient lighting
Lighting, Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

People often underestimate and overlook lighting when planning a space.

Kitchens offer an abundance of lighting choices that can add aesthetic appeal. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Tim S. of  Atlanta)
Lighting, Electrical

On this episode of the Chat with the Experts podcast, Chuck Hill of Mister Sparky explains lighting options for your home and answers electrical questions.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

Angie's Answers

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Saint Louis

B

Rating
Generally the work went well. The men who did the work were very pleasant, prompt and efficient. There were some issues that were not clarified about pricing and what would be required to get the job done. This resulted in their having to return three times when I feel the job could have been completed in two visits.
- Jean P.
N

Rating
Saint Louis Electricians Provider Name Locked
was on time and professional. The office had sent a confirmation with his photo ahead of time. He changed out outlets in two rooms. I'm very pleased with his work and will use Wireworks again.
- Sarah F.
C

Rating
Found an issue with control panel. Fixed it and the cause. Instead of billing for the work done (replacing a few circuit breakers and puttying around an outdoor conduit) , he used a table to categorize the the billing, which seemed high.
- Greg W.
A

Rating
These people are so friendly & go out of their way to be accommodating. Their prices are more tha fair, their electricians are extremely capable & get the job done fast. This is the second time I have used them & will definitely recommend them again & again.
- Joan R.
A

Rating
Wonderful! The electrician was so nice and very professional. He finished in less time than I expected, and asked me if I needed any other electrical work done. Very neat and well-organized. He even cleaned up after himself, which I didn't expect because I am remodeling the rest of my condo, and everything is in a state of disarray now anyway. It was a nice touch that he cleaned up after himself. He took the extra step of explaining the difference between certain types of bulbs. I already told him I will use
Saint Louis Electricians Provider Name Locked
to install the living room ceiling fan when it is time.
- andrea B.
F

Rating
Bill was super friendly and helpful when he came out ot give me the bid. He said that the work would be no problem and I let him know that we were doing it to get insulation blown into the attic.
I also made him aware that there was insulation up there but its no where near regulation as it has been in the house for 10-15 years and its barely a couple inches deep. He didn't make it seem like an issue at all during the bid and he sent me an e-mail with a price. While he was at the house he quoted me that it would be about $1000 on the low end and $1500 on the high end. I was fine with the price and I made sure that when he e-mailed me the bid that it was for the high price.
Things seemed to be going good. I was scheduled by the daughter for a day while the owner was out of town on vacation. When the owner returned apparently they were double booked the same day I was originally scheduled for so we pushed the date out two weeks to the 19th. They told me they would show up around 8 am which was fine.
Getting to the 19th I rush around in the morning to make sure everything is ready and they show up. Its one young looking guy that looked a little lost. He asked where I wanted him. I was confused. Why did he need to ask where I wanted him? He didnt even know why he was there. After explaining the work he was to do he grabbed a ladder and went to my attic and came right down silent and went to his truck where he sat tapping around on his phone for an hour.
Bill showed up after that hour and came in saying "So i hear we have a problem" I was confused the worker said barely even 10 words to me and never anything about a problem. Bill went on to explain they cant work in the attic because the insulation was there. He never at any point told me it had to be removed. When I expressed this he simply told me they wont do the work.
They did nothing but waste my time. I had to take off for them, I was rescheduled by them and I had to travel to my credit union in another city just to pick up the money to pay them with. They should be more upfront and clear about their terms before agreeing to do work only to back out because the kid they sent didn't seem to want to work.
Also I have called other electricians after this incident. Every single company told me that knob and tube can be replaced while there is insulation in the attic. Not one company told me that it had to be vacuumed out before they can even work. Now I am getting new bids from other companies that all say they can do the work WITH the insulation. I have yet to find a single company that cant do the work.
Be careful when dealing with them they might show up and suddenly cant do the work.


- Shala W.
A

Rating
The electrician finished a job early and was able to get to me about an hour before the scheduled visit, which worked out well for me. Unfortunately, I don't remember the young man's name, but he was friendly, thorough, professional, and completed the tasks quickly.
My rating on the price may be arbitrary. I've never had work done by an electrician previously so I don't know what would be applicable in this case. The deal was $135 for 2 hours of work. He was probably there about an hour, but he did want I needed to be done. So I'm happy with the results though I may have spent more than I needed to.
- M Madonna B.
A

Rating
Saint Louis Electricians Provider Name Locked
was on time and put on booties before coming into the house. He was very professional. He gave me an estimate and then completed the work in a timely manner. They are expensive but their work is top notch.
- Gregory H C.

Electricians in Saint Louis

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Southwestern Electric Co

3838 S Broadway
Saint Louis

SOUTHWESTERN ELECTRIC CO

3838 S BROADWAY
Saint Louis

SPIRTAS WRECKING CO

951 SKINKER PKWY
Saint Louis

Spotswood Electric

498 S 5th St #284
St. Charles

Springman Electric

402 Straube Ln

SSC Engineering, Inc.

18207 Edison Avenue
Chesterfield

St Charles Kitchens & Baths

2787 W Clay St
Saint Charles

St Joseph Co LLC

3470 Hampton Ave
Saint Louis

ST LOUIS CHAPTER-NATL ELEC

3245 HAMPTON AVE
Saint Louis

ST LOUIS ELECTRIC INC

4005 PAPIN ST
Saint Louis

ST LOUIS LIGHTNING PROTECTION

10364 FOREST BROOK LN
Saint Louis

ST LOUIS MOTOR CO

2743 GRAVOIS AVE
Saint Louis

ST LOUIS SHAVER & APPL INC

1254 New Towne Rd
Arnold

ST LOUIS TIME & SIGNAL

8473 N BROADWAY
Saint Louis

St. Louis Remodeling Pros.

Lake Drive
House Springs

St.Louis Maintenance Pro

800n tucker
Saint Louis

STANDARD NEON SUPPLY CO

2253 ADMINISTRATION DR
Saint Louis

StanFord Heating and Cooling

4482 Wodson Rd
St. Louis

STAR MECHANICAL

917 N HIGHWAY 67
Florissant

STATE MECHANICAL SVC INC

10510 LACKLAND RD
Saint Louis

Stein Construction Incorporated

157 romine circle
Ballwin

Stein Design & Development Inc

PO Box 4588
Chesterfield

STEP Warmfloor

11147 Dorsett Rd
Maryland Heights

Stephenson Electric Co

512 Water St
Fenton

STIARWALT ELECTRIC

1134 E WABASH ST
O Fallon

STL ECO ENERGY & ELECTRIC

2586 Willow Glen Park
Fenton

STL ELECTRIC CO

PO BOX 142577
Saint Louis

StraightUp Solar

10330 Page Industrial Blvd
Saint Louis

Streib Electric Co

9225 Watson Industrial Park
Saint Louis

Striking Renovations

PO Box 765
O Fallon

STROUP ELECTRIC CO

4251 ARCO AVE
Saint Louis

Suburban Electrical Services32

2128 Schuetz Rd
Saint Louis

Suermann Contracting

19 Heathwood Ln
Fenton

Summit Electric, Inc

2610 Summit View Drive
Barnhart

Summit Power Systems, Inc

3269 St. Mary's Loop
Villa Ridge

Summit Security & Electronics

11033 Margatehall Dr
Bridgeton

SUNNE CONTROLS INC

7016 CHALKSTONE RD
Saint Louis

SUNSET ENTERPRISES INC

12845 CRAB THICKET LN
Saint Louis

Superb Electric LC

415 Riverview Lane
Saint Charles

SuperDave The Handyman

310 W Felton Ave.
Saint Louis

SUPERIOR CARBON PRODUCTS

3159 FEE FEE RD
Bridgeton

SUPERIOR INSTALLATIONS CORP

4848 PARK 370 BLVD
Hazelwood

SUPPLY WORKS

2 CITYPLACE DR
Saint Louis

SUPREME ELECTRIC

7574 Watson Rd
Saint Louis

SWANSEA LIGHTING

820 CATAWBA AVE

Swedlund Construction, LLC

11260 Tea Olive Dr
Bridgeton

Synergy Electric

105 Ford Lane
Hazelwood

Synergy Electric LLC

106A E. 4th St. Suite 4

SYNNATE CONTROLS

3 POST OAK DR
Saint Peters

T & C ELECTRIC INC

4874 GREENTON CT
Saint Louis

T & R ELECTRIC INC

1720 SCHERER PKWY
Saint Charles

T D DEVEYDT ELECTRIC LLC

PO BOX 721
Crystal City

T.N.C. PAINTING & REMODELING LLC.

2606 Minnesota Ave.
St. Louis

TAQ Electrical Services

6056 N. Lakeside
House Springs

TARGET ELECTRIC

4576 BLAIRMOOR TER
Saint Louis

Tarro Electric

7793 Mexico Rd
Saint Peters

Tate Home Improvements, LLC

4850 Ste B
Saint Louis

TAYCON BUILDING TECHNOLOGIES

715 Goddard Ave
Chesterfield

Taylor & Sons

Lake Saint Louis

TAYLOR MORLEY HOMES

164 BIRCHWOOD TRAIL DR
Maryland Heights

TEC REP CORP

320 BROOKES DR
Hazelwood

TECH ELECTRIC

234 Destiny Ct
Wentzville

TECHNICAL PRODUCTIONS INC

10866 MIDWEST INDUSTRIAL BLVD
Saint Louis

TEKTRONIX INC

520 N BELT E

Telecom Direct, LLC

1221 trailwood ct

TEMPERATURE CONTROL SYSTEMS

2853 Yaeger Rd
Saint Louis

TENARIS

2200 West Loop S

TERMINAL SUPPLY CO

300 ZODIAC INDUSTRIAL CT
Maryland Heights

TH Construction

1744 Grafton Drive
St. Louis

The Donkey Fault Company

8218 Albin Ave
Saint Louis

The Firm Home Investment & Development LLC

3006 S. Jefferson Ave.
St. Louis

The Green House

1406 ROBIN HOOD CT
Saint Louis

The Handy Hubby Inc

4904 Elder Rd
Villa Ridge

The Handy People

Florissant

The Hardy Company

17 Hickory Pt

THE HOME DEPOT

2500 TROY RD

The Home Depot - Southtown

3202 S Kings Hwy Blvd
Saint Louis

THE HOME DOCTORS LLC

13 ALGONQUIN CIR
Hillsboro

THE HOME TEAM

5041 Sycamore Springs Dr
House Springs

The Hungry Carpenter LLC

823 Tamerton Pl
St Peters

The Professional Handyman

5005 Milburn Rd
Saint Louis

THOMAS MYERS ASSOC

621 PACKFORD DR
Chesterfield

Thomas' Handyman Service, LLC

3247 Old Fredericktown Road
Farmington

THOMPSON ELECTRIC

10598 RANDOLPH COUNTY LINE RD

THOMSON ELECTRICAL CONTRACTING

427 W TERRA LN
O Fallon

THUNDER ELECTRIC

4947 SHAW AVE
Saint Louis

TIEPELMAN CONTRACTORS

1932 BROWN RD
Saint Louis

TIM THE FIX-IT MAN

3236 Fleet Ln
Saint Charles

TLS Home Improvement LLC

10 Old Glory Court
O'fallon

TNT Construction

Saint Charles

tollefsrud construction LLC

106 lemans ct
Lake Saint Louis

TOLSON'S ELECTRIC SVC

9017 EDOUARD ST

Tony Johnston

2416 Cozy Ln
High Ridge

Top Notch Repairs & Renovations

4600 Chippewa
Saint Louis

TOTAL ELECTRIC CO INC

605 POTOSI ST
Farmington

TOUR ANDOVER CONTROLS

15 WORTHINGTON ACCESS DR
Maryland Heights

TOUR ANDOVER CONTROLS-SENNA

9291 WATSON INDUSTRIAL PARK
Saint Louis

TRANSCAT

527 MAE CT
Fenton

Tri Square

7267 Sutherland Ave
Saint Louis

Tri Star Mechanical Services

33 Meditation Way Court
Florissant

TRI STATE MECHANICAL SVC INC

12249 BENNINGTON PL
Maryland Heights

TRI-ONICS INC

2491 INDUSTRIAL CT

TRINITY QUALITY ELECTRIC INC

18735 WILD HORSE FARM CT
Glencoe

TRIPLE R CABLE CONSTRUCTION

3946 Country Club Dr
Imperial

Tritech

1099F Beltline Rd

Triton Electric Co LLC

1070 DuBerry lane
Saint Louis

TRIUMPH CONSTRUCTION LLC

P O BOX 515
Chesterfield

Tru Construction & Remodeling LLC

524 Briar Meadows Ct.
Wentzville

True American Contracting

7888 OLDE ENGLISH RD. 209
Affton

TUREK ELECTRICAL SVC

4126 SADDLE BACK CT
Saint Louis

TWIN-CO INC

1352 D'Adrian Professional Park

TWOMEY HEATING & COOLING

600 6TH ST
Park Hills

ULTRASONIC CLEANING & SALES

2593 ELM DR
Arnold

UNASH ELECTRIC INC

49 OZARK LN
Arnold

United Building & Design

10630 Charrette Dr
Saint Louis

UNITED CONSTRUCTION SOLUTIONS LLC

625 Landmark Dr
Arnold

Universal Construction

7 Kenstone Ct
Florissant

UpKeepers Inc

503 Autumn Oaks Dr
Ellisville

Valenti, Installations

472 Bethany Ct.

Verocity Contracting Company, LLC

204 Kohrs Drive
Wentzville

VILLAGE ELECTRIC HTG & COOLING

1338 COMMERCIAL BLVD
Herculaneum

VISION ELECTRIC & SYSTEMS

745 FRIEDENS RD
Saint Charles

VMG Enterprise

11766 Lusher Rd
Saint Louis

VOLZ ELECTRIC INC

4534 S GRAND BLVD
Saint Louis

VOP Handyman

Balllwin

WALDINGER CORP

4224 CLAYTON AVE
Saint Louis

Wallace Electrical Services

6665 Ike Dr
Barnhart

WALT'S ELECTRIC

2719 STATE ST

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Warren County Electric

27115 Courtney Place Cir
Warrenton

WATLOW ELECTRIC

12001 LACKLAND RD
Saint Louis

WAXX FACTORY

11836 W FLORISSANT AVE
Florissant

We're Ready Construction

1001 S Warson Rd
Saint Louis

Weaver's Heating & Cooling

12874 Fox Haven Dr
Florissant

Webb Contracting

5253 Darkmoor Ln
Imperial

Webb Electric

1403 Timothy Drive
Arnold

WEGMAN ELECTRIC CO

1141 E AIRLINE DR

WEISS ELECTRIC LLC

341 BEAVERLAKE DR
Saint Charles

WENTZEL ELECTRIC CO

5645 CARLTON DR
High Ridge

Wesling Electric Corporation

1150 Birdie Hills Rd
Saint Peters

west county electric

4148 Alt RD
Eureka

West County Handyman,LLC.

1829 Burlewood Dr
Saint Louis

West County Home Improvement, LLC

16725 Hickory Meadows ct
Ballwin

West County Painting/Home Remodel

110 W. Saint Anthony Ln.
Florissant

West End Services

17 Woodside Drive

WEST TOWN LOFT LLC

2201 WASHINGTON AVE
Saint Louis

Westco Security and Technology Systems

736 Goddard Ave
Chesterfield

Wet 1 Tile

2290 Parton Way
Barnhart

WHITE HORSE PROPERTIES

914 ST MARY'S RD
Villa Ridge

WIBRACHT ELECTRIC INC

1382 CHARLESTOWN INDUSTRIAL DR
Saint Charles

Wired Electric LLC

2051 Bender Ln
Arnold

Wireworks Electric, Inc.

PO Box 831
Manchester

WISSEHR ELECTRIC INC

5801 W STATE ROUTE 161

Wit Construction, LLC

PO Box 4034
Chesterfield

WM Electric LLC

PO Box 8656
Saint Louis

Wolffe Enterprises LLC

180 S Weidman Rd.
Manchester

WRIGHT DO-IT CENTER

1306 N MARKET ST

YardScapes By Bob

4632 Alexander St.
Saint Louis

YOUNG ELECTRIC

1901 FREEBURG AVE

Young Innovations

5235 Butler Hill Estates Drive
Saint Louis

Your Electric

3961 Camelot Estates Ct
St. Louis

YOUR MAINTENANCE MAN

8524 BETTY LEE
Saint Louis

Your Remodeling Source

2676 Technology Drive
O'fallon

Z.S. III, LLC

800 Washington Avenue Concourse Level
Saint Louis

ZIMMERMAN ELECTRIC

8301 CREST INDUSTRIAL DR
Saint Louis

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