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A
"Job included running a new line to main box in basement so I could run heater. With recent cold weather this was no longer an option for me as I have a home office" in the basement.
came out and immediately started work-took approximately and hour in 40 minutes or so.
was quick, through efficient and quiet. The young man was very courteous but probably shouldn't take up public speaking as a side line. Over all I was very pleased with prompt service and a well executed job. I liked the fact that provider proudly advertised that he was a veteran. This was the selling point for me over other probably equally qualified providers.

-Linda M.

B
"It worked out well. The job took longer than the initial price that was part of the deal. The scheduling was fine.

-PETER W.

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Local Articles in Saint Louis

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

The most important benefit of upgrading your electrical system is that your home will be protected from fire hazards caused by overloaded circuits. (Photo courtesy of Point Loma Electric)
Electrical

Don’t wait for sparks to fly; learn the right way to tell if your electric system is in need of an upgrade

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

electrical wiring
Electrical

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

outdoor lighting electricity
Lighting, Electrical

If you're experiencing electrical problems in your home or want to add capacity for new projects, consider hiring an electrician for these four services.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

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Electrical reviews in Saint Louis

A

Rating
I cannot speak highly enough of this two man team, and the quality of the work that they did. Having searched for over two decades for an electrician I would use a second time(!), these guys are
Saint Louis Electricians Provider Name Locked
. Having lived through a very serious case of contractor fraud (close to $50,000 loss), with inferior service employed to rewire my rehab in the early 2000s, I have been struggling ever since to scrape together the money to correct these problems. I made the mistake about six years ago of hiring a handyman who assured me he had the skills--and only made matters worse.
So I felt like I was going out on a limb when I bought the coupon special for
Saint Louis Electricians Provider Name Locked
on Angie's List to sort out and fix a problem with outlets that were sorely needed in one room in my house. These guys showed up exactly when they said they would, they HUSSLED, and got more than I initially thought they could accomplish done, with everything working fine--then just as their contracted four hours was about to end something happened and none of it would work. They stayed a total of four MORE man hours past what I contracted them for trying to fix it. They refused to bill me for the extra time! We all came to the conclusion that there was a defect in the original work that would require another visit.
They came back a few days later and not only found and solved the problem (it was indeed a stupid mistake by the 2001 contractor), but they cleaned up the basement wiring, got everything back up to code, and installed outlets where I needed them in the basement. What I feared would be over $5,000 worth of work that I would have to do over several more years, they accomplished in two visits and for just at $1800 for parts and labor.
If you are like me, and have had terrible experiences with electricians, these are guys you can trust, they will work hard and do their work up to the standard you expect from professionals.
- Kenneth P.
A

Rating
I was sitting at home with my family when the can lights in my family room suddenly starting blinking in random patterns. Fearing something serious (it's an older home), I called
Saint Louis Electricians Provider Name Locked
and Bill was at my house within an hour. Luckily, it was just a bad dimmer switch, which he quickly confirmed by removing it and connecting the wires, which eliminated the blinking problem. Since he didn't have a CFL/
Saint Louis Electricians Provider Name Locked
dimmer on truck, we agreed I'd go pick one up and he would come back to install it. He came back today and took care of the problem quickly and efficiently.
Bill was professional, very personable (my dog loves him!), and a knowledgeable electrician. I was extremely happy overall and I plan to use
Saint Louis Electricians Provider Name Locked
again for another project in the near future.
- Thomas A N.
A

Rating
Everything went well, and we had no issues as far as I can recall. In fact, they did such a good job that we hired them to install an exhaust fan in our bathroom at a later date.
- Dora C C.
A

Rating
Saint Louis Electricians Provider Name Locked
is my go to for all kinds of services, not just electrical. They are courteous, professional and do an excellent job. I would never hesitate to recommend this company.
- Paul K.
A

Rating
I purchased on Angie's List the $849 special for a service panel replacement, knowing that to upgrade to the 200 amp service would be an additional cost. Bill arrived promptly to review the work and provide an estimate of the additional services needed. He fully explained the costs and we were satisfied with the price, though it was higher than I had expected. The work was done on a date to fit my schedule and was performed in a timely and efficient manner. In addition to the service panel, they also installed a whole home surge protector and a GFCI receptacle at the service panel. The workers arrived promptly and cleaned up both inside and outdoors when they finished. Overall, I was very satisfied with the work that was done.
- LARRY L.
C

Rating
I was not too happy with the service but they did end up crediting me for part of the service. I thought I was getting 2 hours of electrical service. They had charged me an additional $129. One electrician came out with a helper. All I was looking for was to have them install a dimmer switch and they were not able to do that. It also took about 6 weeks to get them scheduled out.
- JL M.
A

Rating
The service went fine. I had them replace a GFI plug.. I know that
Saint Louis Electricians Provider Name Locked
was recently bought out by a different electrical company called West
Saint Louis Electricians Provider Name Locked
Electric. The electrician was quick to get the work done. He did exactly what I was looking for and was efficient. He was also respectful and nice. They were very responsive and easy to schedule with.
- Donna K.
A

Rating
The service went very well and we were very happy with their work. Two technicians came out and completed the work in about a full day. They were efficient and very neat in their work. They even wore booties in the house and cleaned up after themselves well. I had no problem scheduling the service at all.
- Alexia M.

All Electricians in Saint Louis, MO

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

ST LOUIS TIME & SIGNAL

8473 N BROADWAY
Saint Louis

St. Louis Remodeling Pros.

Lake Drive
House Springs

St.Louis Maintenance Pro

800n tucker
Saint Louis

STANDARD NEON SUPPLY CO

2253 ADMINISTRATION DR
Saint Louis

StanFord Heating and Cooling

4482 Wodson Rd
St. Louis

STAR MECHANICAL

917 N HIGHWAY 67
Florissant

STATE MECHANICAL SVC INC

10510 LACKLAND RD
Saint Louis

Stein Construction Incorporated

157 romine circle
Ballwin

Stein Design & Development Inc

PO Box 4588
Chesterfield

STEP Warmfloor

11147 Dorsett Rd
Maryland Heights

Stephenson Electric Co

512 Water St
Fenton

STIARWALT ELECTRIC

1134 E WABASH ST
O Fallon

STL ECO ENERGY & ELECTRIC

2586 Willow Glen Park
Fenton

STL ELECTRIC CO

PO BOX 142577
Saint Louis

StraightUp Solar

10330 Page Industrial Blvd
Saint Louis

Streib Electric Co

11011 Lin Valle Dr
Saint Louis

Striking Renovations

PO Box 765
O Fallon

STROUP ELECTRIC CO

4251 ARCO AVE
Saint Louis

Suburban Electrical Services32

2128 Schuetz Rd
Saint Louis

Suermann Contracting

19 Heathwood Ln
Fenton

Summit Electric, Inc

2610 Summit View Drive
Barnhart

Summit Power Systems, Inc

3269 St Mary's Loop
Villa Ridge

Summit Security & Electronics

11033 Margatehall Dr
Bridgeton

SUNNE CONTROLS INC

7016 CHALKSTONE RD
Saint Louis

SUNSET ENTERPRISES INC

12845 CRAB THICKET LN
Saint Louis

Superb Electric LC

415 Riverview Lane
Saint Charles

SuperDave The Handyman

310 W Felton Ave.
Saint Louis

SUPERIOR CARBON PRODUCTS

3159 FEE FEE RD
Bridgeton

SUPERIOR INSTALLATIONS CORP

4848 PARK 370 BLVD
Hazelwood

SUPPLY WORKS

2 CITYPLACE DR
Saint Louis

SUPREME ELECTRIC

7574 Watson Rd
Saint Louis

SWANSEA LIGHTING

820 CATAWBA AVE

Swedlund Construction, LLC

11260 Tea Olive Dr
Bridgeton

Synergy Electric

105 Ford Lane
Hazelwood

Synergy Electric LLC

106A E. 4th St. Suite 4

SYNNATE CONTROLS

3 POST OAK DR
Saint Peters

T & C ELECTRIC INC

4874 GREENTON CT
Saint Louis

T & R ELECTRIC INC

1720 SCHERER PKWY
Saint Charles

T D DEVEYDT ELECTRIC LLC

PO BOX 721
Crystal City

TAQ Electrical Services

6056 N. Lakeside
House Springs

TARGET ELECTRIC

4576 BLAIRMOOR TER
Saint Louis

Tarro Electric

7793 Mexico Rd
Saint Peters

Tate Home Improvements, LLC

4850 Ste B
Saint Louis

TAYCON BUILDING TECHNOLOGIES

715 Goddard Ave
Chesterfield

Taylor & Sons

Lake Saint Louis

TAYLOR MORLEY HOMES

164 BIRCHWOOD TRAIL DR
Maryland Heights

TEC REP CORP

320 BROOKES DR
Hazelwood

TECH ELECTRIC

234 Destiny Ct
Wentzville

TECHNICAL PRODUCTIONS INC

10866 MIDWEST INDUSTRIAL BLVD
Saint Louis

TEKTRONIX INC

520 N BELT E

Telecom Direct, LLC

1221 trailwood ct

TEMPERATURE CONTROL SYSTEMS

2853 Yaeger Rd
Saint Louis

TENARIS

2200 West Loop S

TERMINAL SUPPLY CO

300 ZODIAC INDUSTRIAL CT
Maryland Heights

TH Construction

1744 Grafton Drive
St. Louis

The Donkey Fault Company

8218 Albin Ave
Saint Louis

The Firm Home Investment & Development LLC

3006 S. Jefferson Ave.
St. Louis

The Green House

1406 ROBIN HOOD CT
Saint Louis

The Handy Hubby Inc

4904 Elder Rd
Villa Ridge

The Handy People

Florissant

The Hardy Company

17 Hickory Pt

THE HOME DEPOT

2500 TROY RD

The Home Depot - Southtown

3202 S Kings Hwy Blvd
Saint Louis

THE HOME DOCTORS LLC

13 ALGONQUIN CIR
Hillsboro

THE HOME TEAM

5041 Sycamore Springs Dr
House Springs

The Hungry Carpenter

823 Tamerton Pl
Saint Peters

The Professional Handyman

5005 Milburn Rd
Saint Louis

THOMAS MYERS ASSOC

621 PACKFORD DR
Chesterfield

Thomas' Handyman Service, LLC

3247 Old Fredericktown Road
Farmington

THOMPSON ELECTRIC

10598 RANDOLPH COUNTY LINE RD

THOMSON ELECTRICAL CONTRACTING

427 W TERRA LN
O Fallon

THUNDER ELECTRIC

4947 SHAW AVE
Saint Louis

TIEPELMAN CONTRACTORS

1932 BROWN RD
Saint Louis

TIM THE FIX-IT MAN

3236 Fleet Ln
Saint Charles

TLS Home Improvement LLC

10 Old Glory Court
O'fallon

TNT Construction

Saint Charles

tollefsrud construction LLC

106 lemans ct
Lake Saint Louis

TOLSON'S ELECTRIC SVC

9017 EDOUARD ST

Tony Johnston

2416 Cozy Ln
High Ridge

Top Notch Repairs & Renovations

4600 Chippewa
Saint Louis

TOTAL ELECTRIC CO INC

605 POTOSI ST
Farmington

TOUR ANDOVER CONTROLS

15 WORTHINGTON ACCESS DR
Maryland Heights

TOUR ANDOVER CONTROLS-SENNA

9291 WATSON INDUSTRIAL PARK
Saint Louis

TRANSCAT

527 MAE CT
Fenton

Tri Square

7267 Sutherland Ave
Saint Louis

Tri Star Mechanical Services

33 Meditation Way Court
Florissant

TRI STATE MECHANICAL SVC INC

12249 BENNINGTON PL
Maryland Heights

TRI-ONICS INC

2491 INDUSTRIAL CT

TRINITY QUALITY ELECTRIC INC

18735 WILD HORSE FARM CT
Glencoe

TRIPLE R CABLE CONSTRUCTION

3946 Country Club Dr
Imperial

Tritech

1099F Beltline Rd

Triton Electric Co LLC

1070 DuBerry lane
Saint Louis

TRIUMPH CONSTRUCTION LLC

P O BOX 515
Chesterfield

Tru Construction & Remodeling LLC

524 Briar Meadows Ct.
Wentzville

True American Contracting

7888 OLDE ENGLISH RD. 209
Affton

TUREK ELECTRICAL SVC

4126 SADDLE BACK CT
Saint Louis

TWIN-CO INC

1352 D'Adrian Professional Park

TWOMEY HEATING & COOLING

600 6TH ST
Park Hills

ULTRASONIC CLEANING & SALES

2593 ELM DR
Arnold

UNASH ELECTRIC INC

49 OZARK LN
Arnold

United Building & Design

10630 Charrette Dr
Saint Louis

United Building & Design

10630 Charrette Dr
Saint Louis

United Building & Design

10630 Charrette Dr
Saint Louis

United Building & Design

10630 Charrette Dr
Saint Louis

United Building & Design

10630 Charrette Dr
Saint Louis

UNITED CONSTRUCTION SOLUTIONS LLC

625 Landmark Dr
Arnold

Universal Construction

7 Kenstone Ct
Florissant

Valenti, Installations

472 Bethany Ct.

Verocity Contracting Company, LLC

204 Kohrs Drive
Wentzville

VILLAGE ELECTRIC HTG & COOLING

1338 COMMERCIAL BLVD
Herculaneum

VISION ELECTRIC & SYSTEMS

745 FRIEDENS RD
Saint Charles

VMG Enterprise

11766 Lusher Rd
Saint Louis

VOLZ ELECTRIC INC

4534 S GRAND BLVD
Saint Louis

VOP Handyman

Balllwin

WALDINGER CORP

4224 CLAYTON AVE
Saint Louis

Wallace Electrical Services

6665 Ike Dr
Barnhart

WALT'S ELECTRIC

2719 STATE ST

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Warren County Electric

27115 Courtney Place Cir
Warrenton

WATLOW ELECTRIC

12001 LACKLAND RD
Saint Louis

WAXX FACTORY

11836 W FLORISSANT AVE
Florissant

We're Ready Construction

1001 S Warson Rd
Saint Louis

Weaver's Heating & Cooling

12874 Fox Haven Dr
Florissant

Webb Contracting

5253 Darkmoor Ln
Imperial

Webb Electric

1403 Timothy Drive
Arnold

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

WEGMAN ELECTRIC CO

1141 E AIRLINE DR

WEISS ELECTRIC LLC

341 BEAVERLAKE DR
Saint Charles

WENTZEL ELECTRIC CO

5645 CARLTON DR
High Ridge

Wesling Electric Corporation

1150 Birdie Hills Rd
Saint Peters

west county electric

4148 Alt RD
Eureka

West County Handyman,LLC.

1829 Burlewood Dr
Saint Louis

West County Home Improvement, LLC

16725 Hickory Meadows ct
Ballwin

West County Painting/Home Remodel

110 W. Saint Anthony Ln.
Florissant

West End Services

17 Woodside Drive

WEST TOWN LOFT LLC

2201 WASHINGTON AVE
Saint Louis

Westco Security and Technology Systems

736 Goddard Ave
Chesterfield

Wet 1 Tile

2290 Parton Way
Barnhart

WHITE HORSE PROPERTIES

914 ST MARY'S RD
Villa Ridge

WIBRACHT ELECTRIC INC

1382 CHARLESTOWN INDUSTRIAL DR
Saint Charles

Wired Electric LLC

2051 Bender Ln
Arnold

Wireworks Electric, Inc.

PO Box 831
Manchester

WISSEHR ELECTRIC INC

5801 W STATE ROUTE 161

Wit Construction, LLC

PO Box 4034
Chesterfield

Wolffe Enterprises LLC

180 S Weidman Rd.
Manchester

WRIGHT DO-IT CENTER

1306 N MARKET ST

YardScapes By Bob

4632 Alexander St.
Saint Louis

YOUNG ELECTRIC

1901 FREEBURG AVE

Young Innovations

5235 Butler Hill Estates Drive
Saint Louis

Your Electric

3961 Camelot Estates Ct
St. Louis

YOUR MAINTENANCE MAN

8524 BETTY LEE
Saint Louis

Your Remodeling Source

126 Bear Claw Dr
Wentzville

Z.S. III, LLC

800 Washington Avenue Concourse Level
Saint Louis

ZIMMERMAN ELECTRIC

8301 CREST INDUSTRIAL DR
Saint Louis

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