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" responded promptly to my inquiry via Angie's List. We discussed the details of my project and concerns and gave" me information to help me decided how I would like to proceed. I decided not to proceed with testing at this time but will get in touch with again if I need such services.


"My renters moved out 3 months early due to mold in the house, I was not able to get rid of the mold no matter what I did including changing the windows, I hired" to figure out where the mold was coming from, they indicated in their report that it was from moisture in the air when windows are not opened regularlly and had quite a few pricey recommendations costing thousands of dollars, I decided not to proceed with that. The only helpful suggestion was installing a Panasonic Whispersoft Motion Detecting Fan in the bathroom. Few months later, I found out that the culprit was due to some dry rot in the back siding which I replaced soon after. I also replaced couple more windows where mold was detected. was unable to figure out the real cause of the problem, whatever they recommended was not going to help, it was a waste of money for less than an hour of checking out a vacant house. I'd rather hire a building expert for a more thorough inspection.

-Mary W.

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Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Seattle


These guys are a rip-off. The inspector from MIS conducted a 30 minute review of my house and told me I needed at least 5 air samples in order to gauge "the extent of the toxic mold" that was present. A week or two later I received a report from MIS that me to believe my basement should be condemned because it was ...More so invested with toxic mold spores. I had a follow up call with MIS to review the report and the message was the same -- you have a serious mold problem! MIS recommended mold remediation and gave me the numbers of two companies to contact to perform the remediation services. I contacted them and a couple of other mold remediation companies that I found on Angie's List. The first company to come to my house literally laughed out loud when he saw the mold that MIS told me was a serious problem. He recommended that I scrub it off and seal the wall with a product I could buy at the hardware store. The second mold remediation specialist (one that MIS had recommended) said they could provide a treatment to the basement that would take a couple of days, but that was more than I needed to do. A cleaning would solve the problem. At this point I was livid and called MIS --- they acted puzzled by my report and suggested I try the same two remediation companies they had recommended initially. At this point I called Environix and I am SO glad I did. I explained what happened with MIS. They came out and did an inspection and assessment, took air samples, and then prepared a lengthy report that clearly explained what I was dealing with. They recommended solutions that I could handle myself and things I could do to make my home cleaner and safer. And they didn't charge me for any of it! and from Environix were terrific to deal with and I highly recommend them.
I followed up with MIS in mid December and still haven't heard back....
- Erin V.

and his team did a great job. Very communicative and knowledgeable about what they do. Showed up on time in coordination with my schedule, and performed their work in a thorough and timely manner. Also dealt with a difficult condo association in a professional manner and made my life earlier. Would work with them again any time.
- Jonathan E.

I can't say enough good things about . He is professional, pleasant, has intimate knowledge of what he does, punctual, delivered on all of his commitments, informed me and ask for any decisions I needed to make along the way, kept the workplace clean at all times,...you get the idea.
I would gladly hire him again and ...More recommend him to my family and friends.
- Vishrut P.

Terrific experience today with owner/operator , a very experienced clean-up person who runs his own business. arrived morning after our call with his complete truck & equipment, prepared for whatever our job may have required. Called him late yesterday and got a callback within an hour and scheduled ...More bid/clean-up for next morning. Unlike large & franchise businesses, will come evaluate your job, give you a bid on the spot, and then do the work that same day. Large operators all require the bid be done in advance by one person, then the clean-up work is scheduled days later by a separate crew. Getting the bid at a reasonable price, and having the work done on the spot, is a bonus for busy homeowners. And, with this owner/operator is the person actually doing the work: WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT YOU GET. Small is beautiful. For homeowners needing clean-up work (most water/sewer back-up damage is not covered by homeowners' insurance -- surprising but true), having the to work with an experienced, reputable clean-up specialist, equipped for whatever your job may require, is an opportunity not to be missed. [Note: many of the larger, more heavily advertised operations, pay their bidders/workers on a commission basis, meaning that your worker is being rewarded for selling you a higher price job or work you don't need.] did our entire job in about 3 hours, price was fair and reasonable, and for a small additional charge, he rented us one of his large industrial-sized fans to dry out the area cleaned for the next few days. He also recommended a different anti-bacterial cleaning agent for our job than one he often uses, since we have an indoor-always-around-pet cat. Completely professional, excellent responsiveness (both callback and on-the-job), very fair price, great quality work and efficiency, and punctual. We are very happy and satisfied customers.
- Harvey J S.

No evidence of mold or moisture in bedrooms. No signs of mold or moisture, such as, blistering or discolor of walls in bedrooms. Water on floor in bathroom around toilet was identified. Inspector recommended that wax o-ring around toilet be replaced.
- Richard C.

These guys are great! Communication with , , and the rest of the folks at was excellent. We had a black water sewer backup and they were out within two hours on a Saturday night. In four hours they had the whole thing under control. One of the best things was that they had a representative ...More there to talk to our insurance claims agent. On the basis of that conversation, our insurance payments were great - we just moved into a new basement and we couldn't be happier! Thank you !
Highly recommended!!!

It went well. They were professional, thorough, easy to talk to, and gave us a clear picture of what needed to be done in order to properly restore the property. Their bid was comprehensive, and the did the work just as promised.
- Robert R.

Several months ago I found mold in some drywall of my house and contacted a Seattle based company to come in and do an inspection of my home that included mold inspection and air quality assessment. was send to my house (he has since ventured out on his own to start .) This was worth every dollar. I ...More am a new homeowner who got freaked out by the mold- as well as a few other environmental issues in my house- and spent over 3 hours walking through my house with me- educating me along the way- about how to go about fixing existing problems- and what kind of small and very doable changes I could make to prevent further issues. I never felt that he was trying to sell me something-but rather that he was truly listening to my concerns and responding with a genuine interest in improving the air quality in my home. He provided a full report- with a variety of suggestions that I could then address as time and funds allowed. He helped me prioritize- and also said call any time if you have any questions- and he meant it! I have since contacted him 2 or 3 more times with follow-up questions and he has spent up to an hour on the phone with me- helping me filter through a plethora of information I had right before purchasing a new furnace. Bottom line- takes a GENUINE interest in his work and his clients. I would not hesitate to recommend . 's expertise, commitment to the work, and customer service are unparalleled.
- Lydia J.

Mold Removal Experts in Seattle

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1-800 Water Damage Seattle

1167 Mercer St

911 Restoration

724 Belmont Place East

A/C Filters 4 Less

4613 N. University Drive, #236

About Time Enterprise Inc

1528 N Prospect St

Ace Flood Response

3816 Rossberg ST SE

Advanced Inspection Services Inc.

3702 149th St Ct E

Advanced Water Restoration

351 Union Ave

Advantaclean of the Eastside

4993 Brighton Pl

Affordable Environmental Inc

PO Box 40
Mountlake Terrace


7955 46th Ave S

All New Again®

15408 Main Street
Mill Creek

All Services NW

5324 - 84th St E


Moses Lake

Artifex Construction

4406 224th pl sw
Mountlake Terrace

ASAP Custom Restoration

6923 Coalcreek plwy se

Bastaldi Construction LLC

11208 44th Ave E

Bennett Restoration & Cleaning

12423 58th Dr SE



Bio Clean

PO Box 655

Black Diamond Blasting

21821 123rd Pl SE



Carpet Cleaner Seattle.com

115 Warren Ave N

Carpet Cleaning Bellevue

15015 Main Street, #406

Carpet Cleaning Everett

2722 Colby Ave, Suite 820

Carpet Cleaning Federal Way

34617 11th place south, Ste.420
Federal Way

Carpet Cleaning Kent

24437 Russell Road

Carpet Cleaning Kirkland

733 7th ave

Carpet Cleaning Lacey

4317 6th ave SE Ste.420

Carpet Cleaning Lynnwood

4210 198th st SW suite 404

Carpet Cleaning Olympia

221 Kenyon st NW Suite 403

Carpet Cleaning Puyallup

1011 East Main, Suite 520

Clean Green Restoration

120 State Avenue NE

Compassionate Cleaners

PO Box 31408

Cooper Painting & Drywall

PO Box 46894

Crawlspaces & Attics NW

22032 244th Ave SE
Maple Valley

Critical Areas Consulting

PO Box 1092


PO Box 686

Dirt Monster

2213 70th Ave W
University Place

Environix Testing & Remediation

2027 196th St SW


14522 NE North Woodinville Way


P.O. Box 20254

F.S. & GS. Services Inc.

16214 57th Ave E


37391 Camp Creek Rd

First Choice Home Inspection

6323 227th ave

Flood Damage Pro

1018 9th Ave

Flood Force

4800 Sandy Point Way NE

Floor Mechanics LLC

227 Bellevue Way NE 357


13306 104th ave ct e

Green Clean LLC

117 e louisa st.

Green Home Remodeling, LLC

12345 Lake City Way NE

Green Sherpa

10215 Greenwood Ave N Unit S425

House Calls Etc Handyman Service

308 E Republican St


3021 SW Bradford Street

Inspections by Jesse

19027 108th Ave NE

J & M Remodel

20025 SE 206th St.
Maple Valley

Jefco Inc

19845 6th Ave NE

LB Construction Inc

10940 Oakwood Ave S

Maintco Inc

11020 120th Ave NE

Master Crafters

4214 NE 107thnSt

MaxCARE of Washington Inc

16208 60th St E

Mcbride Construction Resources Inc

224 Nickerson St


7609 140Th Pl NE

MJO Homes llc.

5723 203rd st sw

Mold Inspection Sciences of Seattle

15110 67th Ave SE

Mold Solutions NW

204 Ballarat Avenue N
North Bend


2501 Mayes Road

New Green NW Construction

4725 Shilshole Ave.




215 SW 153RD ST


9822 32ND AVE. S.

NorthWest Auto Salon

17410 Ash Way Suite 1

Northwest Mold Inspection

8825 34th Ave. NE, Suite L #245

Northwest Preservation Services LLC

14224 73rd Ave NE

NVL Labs, Inc.

4708 Aurora Ave N

On Call Construction Services

12203 22nd. Ave. South

One Call Construction Services

12203 22nd Ave S

Pacific Building Envelope

P.O. Box 7

Pacific Northwest Builders

90 Rankin Road

Pacific Northwest Inspections Group

13000 Bel Red Rd

plaster architectural arts LLC

2750 SW 332nd CT
Federal Way

Precise Home Inspection

24024 150th Ave SE

Precision Floor Crafters

PO Box 14550

ProClean Cleaning Services

16212 Bothell Everett Hwy
Mill Creek

Protech Environmental Services Inc

15413 1st Ave Ct S

Puget Sound Water Rescue (Local)

23923 99th ave. s.

Puroclean Disaster Recovery

2121 20th Street, SE

Puroclean Disaster Services

3728 Rucker Ave

Seattle Environmental Construction LLC

309 S Cloverdale St

Seattle Home Inspector LLC

PO 4212
South Colby


1200 5th Ave

ServiceMaster Cleaning and Restoration

8681 154th Avenue NE


15036 NE 95th St.

Servpro of Shoreline/Woodinville

19726 144th Avenue NE


2720 6th Place S

Shirey Handyman Service LLC

230 NE Juniper St

SMY Home Improvement

4510 168th St SW

South Sound Restoration, LLC

P.O. Box 6037

Sterling Development Partners, Inc

3965 Bethel Road SE
Port Orchard

Sterling Group DKI

926 96th St East

The original Mr fix it

4810 pt fosdick dr nw PMB 413
Gig Harbor

Thermatech NW Inc.

10312 Sales Road S

Washington State Kitchen & Bath

12601 NE Woodinville Dr

Water Mold & Fire Seattle

610 2nd Ave. W

WeHoneyDo.com Service Companies

10035 Main St

Wezee's Plumbing Inc

1526 NW 59th St

Wu Construction

1709 139th Pl NE

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