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Hardware Stores to Avoid

140

Top Rated Hardware Stores

22

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Over 1,319 reviews for
Seattle Hardware Stores from people just like you.

F
"In late June, 2014, my wife and I went to to inquire about replacing our kitchen flooring with tile. With the help of the salesperson, we" picked out some nice looking tile which we were told would be $6.00/sq ft (including for installation). We paid a $50.00 deposit and sent a person to measure our kitchen. The measurement came to 79.2 sq ft (although I had measured the kitchen at 53 sq ft). Even so, the cost (based on the original discussion) should have bee $475.20. However the total price was $938.74 with several items added that had not been disclosed originally. We placed the order. The material was ordered and I picked it up on 27 . The installer arrived and promptly told us the old flooring probably contained asbestos . We had to provide a certificate that it was free of asbestos. We hired an inspector and received a certificate that we were "asbestos-free." This inspection cost us an additional $275.00. Then we were told that we had to move the refrigerator out of the kitchen. We hired a mover to move the refrigerator on the morning of the installation and put it back in the next day. This was estimated to be about $200.00 for each move (door to door charges applied). We made these arrangements and scheduled the new installation for 2 September That morning the movers arrived followed shortly by the installer, who walked into the kitchen, exclaimed "Holy S**t, I can't install on this floor." and walked out. I called the manager of the installation contractor who told me that the floor was too wavy and that it exceeded the specifications for the tile. He said I had to go back to and order sheet vinyl, rather than tile. We were both disappointed, but went back to and ordered sheet vinyl. We were told delivery would take three weeks. We never heard from again. We did get repeated emails from the installation contractor asking "How did we do?" I called their manager repeatedly. He was never in, but I left a message for him to call back. He never did. In the end, we called another flooring company on the recommendation of a previous contractor we had used. This company, "Fantastic Floors" came out and estimated the job. We booked them to install the original tile week later. Their crew came and were done in three hours. In addition, their installation cost was less than the contractor.

-Richard N.

D
"When I went into the 's store to order a shed from Better Built Barns(BBB), the gentleman named " who helped me out knew less about the buildings than I had learned from the brochure that I had picked up and read. We managed to get through the ordering process and most likely knows more now than he did then. He tried hard and wanted to be helpful. When I started to have the difficulties with BBB, I contacted and he passed on the message to Chapman who apparently is the manager in charge of that area of the store. If you would like details on the problems with BBB, please look at our review in Angie's list about that experience. Anyway, I worked with Chapman and he told me that he would get together with BBB and get some help with the poor performance by that contractor. Throughout this process told me how concerned he was about this unfortunate situation. Ultimately, asked me to tell him how he and 's could make us satisfied. I told that all I wanted was for the building to be made level and the roof to be replaced with a roof that meets modern standards. He told me to get a roofing contractor to give me a bid on the roof replacement and send it to him. By the way, 's was unable to get BBB to even level the building. I had to force BBB to do so by filing a complaint about that with the Better Business Bureau. So, I had Roofing, which is a reputable contractor with high ratings on Angie's list and we have used before for other jobs, give me a bid. I sent the bid to Chapman via email. I also tried several times to contact by phone. To this date, I still have not heard back from . The thing I resent most about this situation is that himself asked me to go through the extra effort to get this additional information and he hasn't even had the courage to at least call me and tell me himself that he couldn't do anything about the problems with BBB. At this point our disappointment with 's and Better Built Barns is complete. We no longer will do business with 's or Better Built Barns.

-Celia S.

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Angie's Answers

?
Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!
?

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 

 

Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450

 

We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 

 

Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

?
For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.
?

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.

 

?
You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
?
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Hardware Store reviews in Seattle

F

Rating
I purchased this deal but did not realize it was for a store in North . I live in Seattle WA. I do not know how this deal got sent to me to begin with. I never used it - when I realized it was out of state I threw it away. It would be nice to get my $5 back.
- Lynn Y.
A

Rating
Called in and spoke with the owner, was looking for very specific items. They had everything that I needed with specialty and non toxic items(ecologically appropriate). Service level is above and beyond for customer service. They spend time with customers, a small unique shop. A good all around all purpose store that you can trust in the Cascade neighborhood.
- Judith W.
A

Rating
They provide cleaning supplies and have key making capabilities on-site. They are a wonderful resource; even though they are geared towards apartments they also have things for people in the neighborhood. They have what you need and are very nice, helpful people. They are fast and convenient people who will special order odd parts you may need. I will ...More use them again in the future.
- KRISTINA D.
D

Rating
We ordered lumber to be used for a deck and will never, ever buy from this company again. From the moment we walked in the door, we had problems. The person helping us wasn't very professional or friendly. He kept trying to discourage our choice in a product. We were buidling a wood deck on a 100 year old house. We didn't want to use Trex ...More or cedar because we don't expect the house to last more than 15-20 years. We wanted to use fir and paint it to match the house. The sales rep was snotty about our choice and made it known he thought we were making the wrong decision. The order was originally written up incorrectly. We pointed out the error and received a credit to our visa for some of the product but they didn't entirely correct the order. We wanted forty 20 foot boards. They wrote it up for eight 20 foot boards and forty 16 foot boards. We said it was supposed to be forty 20 foot boards. They removed the eight 20 foot boards from the order instead of correcting the order to forty 20 foot boards. The delivery was later than the expected time so we were at a funeral and had someone waiting for the lumber delivery. The paperwork still showed forty 16 foot boards so the person receiving the order thought it was correct and started to paint as instructed. The quality of the boards was crap! VERY LOW QUALITY!! I could forgive a sales person having a bad day and give the company another shot but I can't excuse receiving product that is awful. We told Evergreen that we were using this for a deck and wanted clean boards. We got boards with numerous nicks, gouges, splits, knots and holes. Over 1/2 the boards are almost unusable. My 13 year old son who know nothing about construction even thought the boards were terrible. We would have returned or refused the entire order if we had been there to receive it but we were at a funeral so by the time we got back, the wood was painted and it was too late to fix it. Now we need to modify our plan to put seams in the deck because we have boards that don't span the length of the deck and the framing is already in place and painted and the crappy low-quality 16 foot boards are already painted. I am so mad!
- Leslie R.
A

Rating
I went to with a list of things I needed, but no real specifics; I needed a stain matched, and thought I'd be wandering around trying to figure it out myself, but both staff members offered their assistance as soon as I walked in the door. They had everything I needed, and several product choices for each item I needed. ...More The prices were reasonable, and I was in and out in a hurry, due to the efficient and helpful staff. I will always go to them first.
- WILL L.
B

Rating
They don't seem very friendly at this store. The person who took our payment was nice but it is like going to a store where the people present the subtle body language that they don't want to be bothered by you. Even the person that helped me load was kind of off putting. No hi, bye, screw you, nothing. I was very surprised because other "green" ...More places usually have really friendly people.
- James M.
A

Rating
The folks at the Environmental Home Center were very helpful in pointing me in the direction of the products to use to refinish my deck. They even helped me figure out which tint to use for the type of wood and location of the deck in terms of sun and shade.
- Karen A.
F

Rating
I had an odd experience, too. I called to come out and bid on work we need done (install ceiling fan, replace bathroom fan, move a wall heater, install two sconces, wire a hood in the attic,). He did not give any estimate, but said he would have to put something together and get it to me later. He didn't ...More say much, but did mention he was busy and he would be available in a month or so. He never sent anything or called and when I called him to inquire about getting at least a bid, he was not very communicative. He strung me along and said he would get it to me soon. Then one day about a week later he called and said he would not be able to help me with my projects. I didn't bother to ask why, as I had read the other review. He wasted our time and kept me waiting for a bid.
- VALERIE H.

Hardware Stores in Seattle

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

ACE HARDWARE

27073 PACIFIC HWY S
Seattle

ACE HARDWARE

15848 PACIFIC HWY S
Seattle

ACE Hardware Corporation

9000 Roosevelt Way NE
Seattle

agDECOR

6947 Coal Creek Pkwy SE
Renton

Agrishop Inc

2012 S 12th St
Tacoma

Alaround Home Improvement

10912 61st ave e 5-201

ALKI LUMBER & HARDWARE

4422 36TH AVE SW
Seattle

Amerisafe

2602 South 38th Street #252
Tacoma

ANTS HARDWOOD FLOOR

9324 57TH AVE S
Seattle

Art Tile Co.

8511 Roosevelt Way NE
Seattle

Aurora Plumbing & Electric Supply

14330 Aurora Ave N
Seattle

Ballard Hardwoods Inc

13423 39th Drive SE
Bothell

BLACKSTOCK LUMBER CO INC

1039 ELLIOTT AVE W
Seattle

Brickhouse Security

980 Avenue of the Americas

BURNT SUGAR

601 N 35TH ST
Seattle

Cascade Lumber Inc

825 Good Rd
Camano Island

CITY HARDWARE

125 E Lynn St Unit 104
Seattle

CITY KITCHENS

1527 4TH AVE
Seattle

CITY PEOPLE'S

5440 SAND POINT WAY NE
Seattle

CITY TREES FURNITURE

1152 NW 46TH ST
Seattle

CLASSIC ROOFING SUPPLY INC

10750 3RD AVE NW
Seattle

CLEARWATER CABINET CO

6869 KIMBALL DR
Gig Harbor

COMPTON LUMBER & HARDWARE

3847 1ST AVE S
Seattle

Continental Store Fixtures

14512 167th Ave SE
Monroe

COOKIN

4224 E MADISON ST
Seattle

Costco Wholesale Corporation

10990 Harbor Hill Dr
Gig Harbor

CRAFT BUILT

13257 4th Ave S
Seattle

CROSSCUT HARDWOODS

4100 1ST AVE S
Seattle

DAWSON'S PLBG SHOWROOM

1522 12TH AVE
Seattle

DEARBORN LUMBER CO

4422 36TH AVE SW
Seattle

DISH IT UP

2727 Fairview Ave E
Seattle

DOLL SHACK TOOL STORE

606 INDUSTRY DR
Seattle

DUKE'S KITCHEN

9656 BEACON AVE S
Seattle

DUNN LUMBER

11835 120TH AVE NE
Kirkland

DUNN LUMBER CO

9300 AURORA AVE N
Seattle

DUNN LUMBER CO

11455 DES MOINES MEMORIAL DR
Seattle

Earthwise Architectural Salvage

3447 4th Ave S
Seattle

East Teak Fine Hardwoods

33525 STATE ROUTE 2
Sultan

eLocksets.com

P.O. Box 711
Kirkland

Evergreen Lumber Inc

1325 Lloyd Pkwy
Port Orchard

Ferguson Bath, Kitchen & Lighting Gallery

4100 W Marginal Way SW
Seattle

FIXTURE GALLERY

8221 Greenwood Ave N
Seattle

FRAME CENTRAL

901 E PIKE ST
Seattle

Fredericks Appliance Center

7509 159th PL NE
Redmond

FRONTIER LUMBER

PO Box 55117
Seattle

GALACTIC BOUTIQUE

1213 PINE ST
Seattle

GLACIER NORTHWEST

5975 E MARGINAL WAY S
Seattle

GOKNOBS.COM

23601 HWY 99
Edmonds

Goodsell Power Equipment

11414 120Th Ave Ne
Kirkland

Grand JK Cabinetry Inc

20905 66th Ave South
Kent

Greenhome Solutions

1210 W Nickerson St
Seattle

Greenwood Hardware

7201 Greenwood Ave N
Seattle

GUTTER COVER NORTHWEST

3749 SW THISTLE ST
Seattle

Hang Time Tools

On line store

Hardware World

15600 Redmond Way
Redmond

HARDWOOD FLOORING DISTRIBUTORS

1031 6TH AVE S
Seattle

HENSON CO

127 N 35TH ST
Seattle

HERR BACKYARD GARDEN CTR

1908 SW 166th St
Seattle

Home Depot

11915 Hwy 99
Everett

Home Depot

11616 Aurora Ave N
Seattle

HOME DEPOT

2701 Utah Ave S
Seattle

Home Depot

325 120th Ave NE
Bellevue

Home Depot

6810 S 180th St
Tukwila

HOME DEPOT

1335 NORTH 205TH STREET
Seattle

Home Depot

17777 Ne 76th St
Redmond

HOME DEPOT

7345 DELRIDGE WAY
Seattle

HOME DEPOT INC

370 CORPORATE DR S
Seattle

House Mart Ace Hardware

14100 SE Petrovitsky Rd
Renton

Hydro2gro

1915 Broadway
Everett

IMPAC CO INC

5059 SW ADMIRAL WAY
Seattle

INTERMOUNTAIN SUPPLY INC

7901 1ST AVE S
Seattle

JOE MYERS CONSTRUCTION

4418 128TH PL SE
Everett

JUNCTION TRUE VALUE HARDWARE

4747 44TH AVE SW
Seattle

KDL Hardware Supply

850 Poplar Place S
Seattle

LACEY DOOR & MILLWORK INC.

3960 12TH AVE SE
Lacey

Lighting Universe

5701 6th Ave S
Seattle

Lincoln Hardware

3726 S G St
Tacoma

Liquidation Warehouse

105 112th St. South

LOWE'S

3300 169TH PL NE
Arlington

LOWE'S

2700 RAINIER AVE SO
Seattle

Lowe's

Seattle

Lowe's - Port Orchard

150 SW Sedgwick Rd
Port Orchard

LOWES

12525 AURORA AVE N
Seattle

MAGNOLIA ACE HARDWARE

2420 32ND AVE W
Seattle

MCLENDON HARDWARE INC

440 RAINIER AVE SO
Renton

McLendon Home Services

906 Industry Dr
Tukwila

MILLWORK OUTLET

28730 MAPLE VALLEY-BLACK DIAMOND HWY
Maple Valley

MoneySavingValue

13445 Martin Luther King Jr Way S S301
Seattle

MR J CULINARY ESSENTIALS

5320 Ballard Ave NW
Seattle

MRS COOKS

2685 NE VILLAGE LN
Seattle

My Studio Home

3106 Bridgeport Way West
University Place

Northwest Concrete Enterprises Inc

15205 Cedar Grove Rd SE
Issaquah

Northwest Painting Services

4739 University Way NE
Seattle

Northwest Specialty Construction

3442 22nd Ave. W
Seattle

NW DESIGN FINISH CARPENTRY LLC

4428 149TH PL SW
Lynnwood

OLD & ELEGANT DISTRIBUTING

10203 MAIN ST Lane
Bellevue

PACIFIC LUMBER & SHIPPING

1301 5TH AVE
Seattle

PACIFIC SAW BLADES

7335 17TH AVE NE
Seattle

Pacific supply

1417 12th Ave
Seattle

PANDA KITCHEN & BATH-SEATTLE

1950 6TH AVE S
Seattle

Parr Lumber

5630 NW Century Blvd

PIONEER BUILDERS SUPPLY CO

924 N 137th St
Seattle

PRECISE TOOL & GAUGE CO

1122 3RD AVE
Seattle

PRO SOURCE BUILDING PRODUCTS

PO Box 98263
Seattle

PRO-TEK/USA

1515 NW 52ND ST
Seattle

Professional Contractor Supply LLC

7303 W Bostian Rd
Woodinville

PROSPECTOR LIQUIDATION

2201 36TH ST
Everett

Prosser Painting & Construction LLC

16931 Viking Way
Poulsbo

Puget Sound Precast

2206 121st St E
Tacoma

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

ROCHESTER LUMBER INC

19523 SARGENT RD SW
Rochester

ROCKLER WOODWORKING & HARDWARE

345 TUKWILA PKWY
Seattle

ROGUE TOOL CO

1435 S JACKSON ST
Seattle

ROOFING TECHNICAL SERVICES

18416 40th Avenue Northwest
Stanwood

ROSEN PLUMBING X-PRESS

425 SW 153RD ST
Seattle

RSVP INTL INC

4021 13TH AVE W
Seattle

Sears - Shoreline Store

15711 Aurora Ave N
Shoreline

SEATTLE CUTLERY

1920 PIKE PL
Seattle

SEATTLE GRANITE COUNTERTOPS

4700 Ohio Ave S Ste D
Seattle

Seattle Home Inspector LLC

PO 4212
South Colby

SEATTLE PAINT SUPPLY

1106 N 80TH
Seattle

SEATTLE SHUTTERS

4616 25TH AVE NE
Seattle

SEATTLE TOOL CORP

PO Box 68190
Seattle

SECOND USE BUILDING MATERIALS

3223 6th Ave. S.
Seattle

shamrock cleaning and Janitorial

8044 ne bothell way
Kenmore

SHUTTER SHOP

4257 NE 74th St
Seattle

SMITH HAWKEN

4500 25TH AVE NE
Seattle

SMY Home Improvement

4510 168th St SW
Lynnwood

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Stewart Lumber & Hardware Company

1761 Rainier Ave S
Seattle

Stoneway Hardware

4318 Stone Way N
Seattle

STONEWAY ROOFING SUPPLY

19020 Highway 99
Lynnwood

Sur La Table

84 Pine St
Seattle

SUR LA TABLE INC

5701 6TH AVE S
Seattle

TASHIRO HARDWARE

1211 S HOLGATE ST
Seattle

THAT KITCHEN SHOP

401 NE NORTHGATE WAY
Seattle

The original Mr fix it

4810 pt fosdick dr nw PMB 413
Gig Harbor

THE PEST STORE

PO Box 18208
Seattle

The RE Store

2309 Meridian St
Bellingham

Tom Miller Construction

25571 State Rt
Cle Elum

TRM WOOD PRODUCTS

26656 MAPLE VALLEY HWY
Maple Valley

Tula, LLC

3432 14th Ave S
Seattle

TWEEDY & POPP ACE HARDWARE

1916 N 45TH ST
Seattle

Valley Dollar

757 Rainier Ave S
Renton

VANDER HOEK WINDOWS & DOORS INC

11108 Northup Way
Bellevue

VELOCITY ART & DESIGN

426 Yale Ave N
Seattle

Vent and Cover

306-7337 137 st

W A Winter Construction (Willy Winter)

2785 SE Salmonberry Rd
Port Orchard

Wayfair LLC

4 Copley Pl Ste 700

Windows, Doors & More, Inc.

5961 Corson Ave S
Seattle

YESLER HARDWARE & PLUMBING

1713 E YESLER WAY
Seattle

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