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Seattle Fountain Installers from people just like you.

" has been here forever and the place is wonderful. All of the staff are helpful and knowledgeable and happy to answer any questions you may" have. You can even bring in plants or pieces you're having trouble with and they have master gardeners that are available to answer your problem questions.


"We were very satisfied with the people, service and quality of their work! They are absolute professionals who know their business and are committed to making their" customers happy. , and are awesome! They actually respond to emails and return phone calls promptly (not my experience with many service providers), they scheduled our project within a short time frame, and the quote and timeline was right on target. They're happy to help over the phone when I have questions or concerns, even after the work has been completed. I feel like they're my partner in maintaining my yard. They are all good people who are a pleasure to work with. I highly recommend them for any type of landscaping project!

-Tara S.

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Local Articles in Seattle

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Angie's Answers

I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.


One of the more difficult issues facing you will be making sure you compare apples 'n apples while understanding the differences between apples 'n oranges.

Some things common to all:

How far from your (water) meter pit to the home?

Do you know what sort of water pressure you have?

Those two questions sortta drive the rest.  How many sprinklers you have is a piece of the puzzle but it is lower on the issues list than how much water pressure and gallons per minute of flow (gpm) you have.  Knowing the water pressure and gpm coming to the house is important because it is the info divided by the flow rate of the heads to tell you how many you can run at a time.

 That, plus the number of heads it takes to cover your yard will let them decide on how many zones to cut the yard into (each zone is X number of heads that run at the same time).

Will the different estimates be for systems that are all parts from a single manufaturer or will it be a collection of brands?  Some will tell you that the parts (controller, back-flow, heads and even specific heads) are better from different manufacturers while others will tell you that all from a single manufacturer will give you an optimized system.

And, are the contractors equally certified?  Not only education and experience but certifications from the various manufacturers who's parts they want to use.  And, will their installations be the same?  Will they open trenches all around your yard and be a week getting the stuff layed, connected and back-filled?  Or, will they pull the flexible pipe and be in 'n out in one day with water flowing to cover their intrussion before they leave that day?

Will your system need to be blown out with pressurized air at the end of the season to avoid winter freeze and bursts or will it drain automagically?

I know, I took your simple question and made it hard.

When I bought my system about 9 years ago, I had a variety of estimates and the differences sortta fell into the mess I listed above.  The low estimate was a person who seemed to be from the "get it in the ground and fix it later" school.

The highest estimate was from someone who seemed more concerned about my yard and the final result than I was.  The low person was using parts 'n pieces from a variety of manufacturers.  The high person was certified by the company that made all the parts he was wanting to use and he carried a fairly high rating from them for his past performance..  He would vary for me if I wanted but he had sound reasons from the controller to each of the heads as to why he preferred his "brand".

It doesn't look like you are a member of Angie's List.  Given the size of the investment you are looking at, this might be a great time to join and see how others in your community have rated the contractors you are considering or if there is one you should add to your list. 

My yard is between 12 and 15,000 square feet less the house, deck, two mini-barns and it is interrupted with a number of blocking (blocks the stream of water) evergreens and planting beds.

The low estimate I had was about $2,500 and would take three days to put in from the time they began to trench.  I don't recall how many heads he wanted to put in but if it was off, he'd be able to put another anyplace and tie it to the nearest zone to give me good coverage.  Uh, this was the get it in the ground 'n adjust later person.

The high estimate I had was around $4,500.  This proposal was for seven active zones each having 5 to 7 heads.  There was enough capacity (extra zone controllers and space within the system controller) built in to add drip irrigation at a later date for the planting beds without having to replace anything.  He drew the entire yard and gave me a copy with the heads marked showing the "throw" of each and the overlap he built in to avoid any missed areas.  And, they wanted to arrive in the morning and leave that evening with the system watering to cover their tracks throughout the yard.  One day and they would not leave until it was working as advertised!

I took the high estimate.  I have a neighbor who bought from the other folks.  Both of us are happy.  He is really happy because each time he calls his company for adjustments or corrections (yep, they got it in the ground and are still putzing with it) they are out within the week, they are really easy to do business with and their service calls' costs haven't gone up a whole bunch.

Sorry, you can't look at the price and divide by X number of heads and have a fair comparison.


1) IF you are talking the root crown - the portion where it is not one solid truck or "bole", but still a solid or near-solid mass of roots coming off the base of the trunk, then that has to come out on way or another. Typically, once you get beyond about a 3 foot circle then you are in the radial portion of the roots where they spread out laterally, and are a foot or more apart, and new roots can grow in that area fro the new tree OK. Of course, be prepared to have to trim some volunteers so the old tree can't come back, and be sure to fertilize the new tree per recommendations because the old roots will still be trying to extract water and food from the soil to support the tree that they do not yet realize is gone. Do NOT put stump killer or poison in the old tree - will kill new one too.

2) The proper commercial way to do this is to have the entire root crown and larger roots removed with a stump grinder - looks like this -


You need a tree service that can grind down at least two feet below ground level and remove the root crown and larger root segments. If you hve large roots running laterally quite a ways, he can grind them up too - ditto to "trippers" sticking up above ground. Just be sure to have it clear (spray painted) upfront how far he is going for what he quoted - typically about $150 for tree up to 1-2 feet in diameter, up to $500 for a massive sycamore or walnut or cottonwood or redwood with 6 foot diameter crown. While you can rent stump grinders at tooll rental places, I REALLY do not recommend it - the rental ones you can afford to rent for one use are pretty light duty, and they can chew a person up in no time flat if you lose control when it snags in the wood or hits a rock.

3) Another way is to go out to where the massive roots taper off to something you can reasonable cut - say 4-6 inches in diameter, and cut them all in a circle around the stump, then with a come-along or CAREFULLY (not more than a few hundred pounds) with a vehicle with a trailer hitch, put a steady pull on a good rope or strap or chain in a shallow notch cut around the top of the stump (so it does not pop off easy), then while it is being rotated up out of the ground walk around and cut any root you see still attached or trying to lift out of the ground. This works much better if the stump is left about 4-6 feet high so you get some real leverage on it with the pull, but if already cut down short run chain or strap over the top of it and around a large root on the far side of the stump. I use a Sawzall with foot long coarse tooth wood cutting blade for this - goes through roots really fast, and blade is only $1 or so apiece so ruining one or two hitting rocks is no big thing, and also reaches in under the stump better and safer than an axe. I helped a neighbor take out a back yard full of birches this way - took us about half a day to remove about 15 trees with about 6 foot diameter circle of crown and roots, leaving holes about 1-2 feet deep where each tree was. Remember this - whichever way you use to take it out, you will need maybe 1-5 wheelbarrow loads of good growth medium to replace the divot. 

4) Cheaper route - cut off flush with ground level (or leave some stickup as a planter or stool or feeder base or whatever), and plant new tree at least 4 feet away from old crown, in a spot between the old roots.

'Reasonable' is one of those words that means wildly divergent things to different people.  Check with your local high school to see if they have  any sort of agricultural program.  If yes, perhaps someone in that program could help you.  Being a landscaper myself, I must say it sounds like you want something that is - first and foremost - cheap.   This is NOT the best way to look for any service.  You would be better served looking for 'competant' than with 'cheap'.  The nicer you want your flowerbed to look, the more important it is to find someone who REALLY knows what they are doing.

Natural stones will have some degree of variance given the lack of pre-made consistency.


1/2" is too much from stone to stone and should be able to be fixed with additional leveling sand. 




Fountain Installation reviews in Seattle


It went very well. explained how to keep the UV light maintained and also keep it from breaking again in the future. I never really knew how it worked, but now I do. We also talked about pump replacement options (I asked about it). I'm sure we'll hire this company when the time comes to replace our current pump with ...More something more modern.
- Kathie L.

Fountain Installers in Seattle

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A 1 Rockey Landscaping

16247 NE 51st St


490 Sunset Blvd
Port Townsend

Accurate Measures

15004 Greenwood Ave N

Aden Landscaping

849 N 98th St

Advanced Construction &Remodeling

12218 4th Ave Ct E

Altered Earth LLC

7508 29th Ave SW


16625 Redmond Way

Architectural Concrete Incorporated

1420 NW Gilman Blvd

Archstone Masonry

1928 Turk Dr

Arcie Arts




Backflows Northwest, Inc

12819 SE 38th St


3630 NE 123RD ST

Bayne Junction Woodworks L.L.C.

po box 106

Benjamin Landscaping LLC

400 Cooper pt rd sw suite 27

Bogman Construction Services

2400 NW 80th St

Bryan LaComa Landscape Design

16273 9th Ave NE

Carlos Sanchez Contracting, LLC.

11827 24th Ave South

Cash M. Carr Technical Services

9873 244th PL NE

Classic Nursery & Landscape Co.

16215 140th PL NE

Craft Star SPC

15745 Vail Rd SE

Cutting Edge Contracting

4601 NE 78th st

D & M Construction and Landscaping

19207 Evergreen Dr.
Bonney Lake

DA Caldwell, Inc.

3906 32nd St. Ct. NW
Gig Harbor

Dan DiZazzo Landscape Architecture

6523 California Ave. SW

Dirt Pros LLC

6418 Rebecca Ct SE

Doc's Excavation and services LLC

225 137th st sw

Dzingle’s Landscaping LLC

33404 Military Rd S

Earthscapes LLC

15852 174th Ave NE

EcoScape Designs

13735 Linden Ave N B303

Ecoyards LLC

1605 S 93rd St


2025 116TH AVENUE NE


2038 9TH ST W

Exact Electric

10115 Greenwood Ave N

Florabundant Garden Design

4508 S Bond St

Full Service Electric, LLC

17229 72nd Ave W.

Full Throttle Landscape

PO Box 1903


23507 50th Ave Ct E



Greater Seattle Construction, LLC

10201 Main St Sute 101

Green Spaces Landscaping LLC

19111 Ross Rd


20126 Ballinger Way NE

Hardware World

15600 Redmond Way

In Harmony Sustainable Landscapes

23622 Bothell Everett Hwy

InsideOut Designs

732 N 74th Street

J Zamora Construction Co LLC

25431 180th South East

Jay Construction

4442 S 176th St

JDS Concrete Construstion

17223 se 264th st

Kim Rooney Landscape Architecture

418 Bellevue Ave E

Lambert Bros. Inc.

PO Box 310
East Olympia


19710 NE 143RD ST

Mason Construction Inc.

PO. Box 186





MJO Homes llc.

5723 203rd st sw

Native Root Designs

5035 NE Lamms Ln

New Green NW Construction

4725 Shilshole Ave.


14141 77TH AVE NE

NW Landscape Management Inc

1911 SW Campus Dr
Federal Way

Olympic Landscape & Irrigation Co.

5620 112th St E.

Pacific Building Envelope

P.O. Box 7

Pacific Landscaping Inc

16337 34th Ave. NE

Pacific Living Construction LLC

1520 Eastlake Ave E, Unit 509

Pacifica Landscapes LLC

2366 Eastlake Ave E

Price Busters Plumbing

3212 NE 167th St

Puget Sound Property Management

8760 Greenwood Ave N

Rain Pros Inc

1402 Lake Tapps Pkwy E




3300 NE 55TH ST

Russell Watergardens & Koi

7102 180th Ave NE

Shenandoah Company

29641 196th Ave SE

Sky Nursery

18528 Aurora Ave N

Sterling Development Partners, Inc

3965 Bethel Road SE
Port Orchard

Steven Bruns Inc

19250 SE 118th St


PO BOX 950
Maple Valley


9701 15TH AVE NW

System Pavers

14935 NE 95th St

T-Jack Construction, LLC

PO Box 886

Tallar Landscaping Inc

16014 74th Ave NE

Tenney Construction

7202 69th Ave SE


16009 60th Street East Suite E

TNT Concrete

305 s 297th st
Federal Way

VanCleave Homes


Woody's Excavating

16507 363rd Ave SE

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