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A
"I worked with , and I have to say (even though no one WANTS to deal with sewer issues), this was perhaps the best experience with a service" provider for repairs that I've ever had. The house is over a hundred years old and you never know what you're going to find when you start digging. 's crew came out many times over the course of a couple of weeks, sometimes spending hours doing exploratory digging to make sure we knew what the real problem was. It turned out that this was really important because no one ever could have guessed how things had been mis-routed. In the end, the price was really reasonable and I found it really easy to work with as the job morphed requiring some re-estimations. His crew went above and beyond on several occasions to make sure that they got everything taken care of. If you're from the school of thought that a bid is a bid, I'm sure can accommodate that, but for me with old houses, I always am super sensitive to bearing the of things that can't possibly be known so that service providers don't feel like they need to cover every contingency in their bid. Working this way requires a pretty trustworthy relationship, and I found Allied/ to really be great in this way.

-Stella L.

A
"They were responsive, arrived on time, clearly laid out the plan, executed and final cost was within pre-approved quote.

-Daniel K.

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Local Articles in Seattle

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Seattle

A

Rating
We had a problem with tree roots partially blocking the sewer in an old house. The sewer was beneath a steep stair to the back door of the house. To remove the stair would have meant replacing it to code, which would have had it overlapping the garage door by about two feet. Other contractors would have removed the stair, but ...More said that with his technique he could clean out the roots and repair the sewer without damage to the stair. All that had to be opened up was the landing outside the back door. His guys came promptly and did the job as planned. They cleaned everything up afterwards and left a tidy cement top step. We were pleased with the job and with 's thoughtful approach.
- E Gay N.
A

Rating
These guys were amazing. We have an older (1929) Seattle house where the concrete sewer pipes have been failing. we've repaired them in sections. The last section of about 55' started leaking into the basement. What a mess.
I contacted someone from the List who told me to get a camera inspection of the side sewer before they would ...More even come out. We hired a rooter service they recommended to camera the line ($250), who told us there were no leaks in the line. So we were back to square one, trying to figure out why water leaked into our basement floor when using the shower in the main floor bathroom. We ripped out some drywall and traced all of the lines, couldn't find a leak. After we eliminated all possible other explanations, I concluded that it really was the sewer line that must be leaking through cracks in the foundation.
So I started calling companies from the LIst to get bids. Not a single one called me back (including three calls to the initial guy I contacted)! We had even dug an access hole in our back yard where the sewer line connects to the house in the hope that the leak was there and it would be a cheaper fix. No call backs, and in the meantime we had this mess in our basement. We're now about 4 weeks into trying to solve this problem.
So I looked online and found sewertechs.com. I called on a Sunday expecting to leave a message, but JB (the Field Ops supervisor) answered the call. He agreed to come out the next morning at 9 am to look at it. He and his tech scoped the line using their own scopes at no charge - eveyone else charges around $250 for this. While there were no visible leaks, he was able to see that the pipes were very thin and likely leaking.
Another thing he talked about was their robotic line cutter. Our downspout pipes are attached to our side sewer, and most companies have to dig out each downspout (which are 5-10' below grade) in order to reconnect them once the side sewer is relined. They have a robotic cutter which eliminates the mess/damage to plants and some of the expense of digging out each drain/downspout that feeds into the side sewer (you do pay for the robotic cutter but less than the cost of them digging a 7' hole).
They were tied up for several weeks on a big job at a base, but they carved a day out of their schedule the following Monday because we had an active leak. Three guys showed up early and finished in the evening. They relined the side sewer, put in new connections to two of our downspouts, and created a new clean out. They were very courteous and professional.
Trenchless pipe repair is absolutely the best way to solve this difficult problem of side sewer leaks, and these guys do it all day long. I've discovered that plumbers contract with professionals like because the technology is expensive and requires specific tools and expertise. So why hire a middle man? I wanted this fixed for good - so I only wanted to hire a company that does it as their primary business. I was lucky to find these guys. They work primarily for contractors (many municipalities require new sewer lining for major house ) and larger scale jobs, and they know what they're doing. They're a great additional to Angie's List.

- Carol M.
A

Rating
We bought an older house ( 1955 ) that had been remodelled in 2013. The house had some previous settling issues, but it seems like the guys who remodeled bolstered the foundation and just built along the settling at a slight grade(!!). Anyway, we were concerned about any further settling that could happen and called around for quotes and inspections. ...More Of the three people we used, was the most reasonable, affordable and easy to talk to. , the estimator, was honest and did not try to scare us into getting more expensive repairs that the other two contractors recommended.
They laid down a slab under our footing to ensure no more settling occurs and warranted it for 20 years ( transferable). They also routed a couple of our downspouts away from the house to an external drywell that they built, to make sure no more water stagnation happened near the foundation.
Overall, the job was done very well barring some minor issues with cleanup which I didn't mind doing at all. We are very glad we went with and will go with them again if need be.
- Avanidhar C.
A

Rating
I stumbled on these guys after receiving a recommendation from a third party sewer scope firm. They were prompt with a bid, very competitive on price, fit me in within two days into their schedule, and were completely honest. I would definitely use these guys again and recommend that you use them if you haven't already.
- Seth C.
A

Rating
Arrived on time and had me bring him up to speed on the history of the house and what the problem was. We had another estimate from someone else that was about $30,000 to fix the problem. However, said that the proposed solution was amazing overkill and suggested we just get the drainage system scoped out and then go from there. ...More At most they recommended a french drain pump thing in the basement. We scoped the drainage system (using someone else) and they found a blocked pipe which they unblocked and said we likely didn't need to do anything else. So had the opportunity to sell us a bill of goods that was just a bit under the 30k and they didn't. They said we probably didn't need to do much of anything as the problem hadn't recurred despite some record rainfall over the winter. Very pleased with their honesty and integrity. We didn't end up having to spend anything other than the cost of scoping out the drainage system.
- Katie M.
A

Rating
From start to finish one of the best contractor/plumbing experiences I've ever had. Every member of the company from the owner Nick, office staff, to all the people at the job site ( ) were excellent and did amazing work. They were very responsive via email/phone and did what they said they would when they said they ...More would. When finished our yard/deck was cleaner than when they arrived.
I'm not someone who writes alot of reviews, but have gone out of my way to do it because I was so impressed. As far as I'm concerned they are the gold standard for great work done by great/nice people.
- DAVID P.
A

Rating
We were very nervous because our basement flooded after we agreed to sell our house. We had to fully disclose the issue but Mr. fixed it right away and made it a non-issue. He even checked on the new homeowner to assure the problem was fixed, which was delightful. I am very pleased with his work and the price was very good ...More considering the circumstances.
- Peter H.
A

Rating
moved into a house with a broken driveway drainage. out of the 4 quotes i got, 's was the most detail and comprehensive. got on a call with me over the weekend when i had follow up questions on the work description. he was patience and thorough in his explanation including follow up pictures of ...More how the end state would look. the crew showed up timely and were professional. they cleaned up after the end of each day. reason for the B in punctuality was when the concrete finish was delayed i was not notified. I reached out to find out what the plan was and it took 2 days to figure out the delay and the plan. they finished the job one day late which is not a big deal for me but it is room for improvement. overall, I will recommend and I will use them again. happy with the project.


- susan C.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Seattle

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & J Retaining Walls Co

22214 Brier Rd
Lynnwood

A 1 Rockey Landscaping

16247 NE 51st St
Redmond

A Advanced Septic

2518 East Valley HWY E
Sumner

A Better Crawl Inc

PO Box 4355
Bremerton

A+ Sewer Technologies

900 Meridian E STE 19-193
Milton

A-1 STONE LANDSCAPING&CONST.CORP.

14918 27PL. SO.
Seattle

AA Plumbing & Drain Team Inc

13110 NE 177th Pl
Woodinville

Aardvark Rooter Inc

3420 C St NE
Auburn

Abba Excavating, LLC

PO Box 675
Wauna

Ace Bulldozing, LLC

10421 221st PL SE
Snohomish

Aces Four Construction

18008 Bellflower Rd
Bothell

AD Construction

112 S Hartford Ave
Bremerton

Aden Landscaping

849 N 98th St
Seattle

AFFORDABLE LANDSCAPE CORPORATION

2203 S. 120TH STREET
Seattle

Aguiar Pavers

12727 Northup Way Ste 8
Bellevue

Alderwood Landscaping

9708 N Nevada St
Spokane

Alki Construction LLC

4101 SW 106th St
Seattle

All American Underground

5628 Old Hwy. 410
Olympia

All Degrees Plumbing

PO Box 731341
Puyallup

Allied Waterproofing & Drainage, Inc.

4231 S. 3rd Avenue
Everett

Altered Earth LLC

7508 29th Ave SW
Seattle

America's Pride Home Services

23201 126th Ave E
Graham

Andy Construction LLC

2333 NE 94th St
Seattle

APOLLO PLUMBING & ROOTER

12404 E Gibson Rd
Everett

Artifex Construction

4406 224th pl sw
Mountlake Terrace

Atoms Sewer and Drain

PO Box 88563
Seattle

Aurora Plumbing & Electric Supply

14330 Aurora Ave N
Seattle

B-Dry LLC

310 Junction Blvd
Auburn

B-Dry LLC

PO Box 1352
Auburn

BAY CONCRETE INC

3122 E 104TH ST
Tacoma

Ben Davis Trucking & Excavating

2 Bridlewood Cir
Kirkland

Benjamin Landscaping LLC

400 Cooper pt rd sw suite 27
Olympia

Best Plumbing

4129 Stone Way N
Seattle

Bigfoot Plumbing

3717 Lake Washington Blvd N
Renton

Bob Oates Plumbing, Sewer, & Rooter LLC

600 W Nickerson Street
Seattle

BODINE CONSTRUCTION SERVICES, INC.

6009 212th St SW
Lynnwood

Bogman Construction Services

2400 NW 80th St
Seattle

Boss Builder

17728 3rd Ave. KPN
Lake Bay

Brent Nuckols Construction Inc

20811 Kaster Rd NW
Poulsbo

Brother's Plumbing Inc

PO Box 2136
Sequim

Budget Sewer

3218 NW 59th Street
Seattle

C & R Landscape Services

14273 Woodinville Redmond Rd.
Redmond

C W Wolff Construction LLC

6714 13th Ave SW
Seattle

Cahill's Plumbing & Heating

23313 208th Ave
Maple Valley

Cannon Construction, Inc

406 Porter Way
Milton

Carlos Sanchez Contracting, LLC.

11827 24th Ave South
Seattle

Cascade Creations NW

8015 215 pl sw
Edmonds

Cascade Mini Excavating, Inc.

1266 Bay Loop SW
Olympia

CD Excavating

Bonney Lake

CD Paver MGMT a division of Rios Brick Pavers

North Office- 10717 99th Ave.
Arlington

CHEK Construction & Painting

2621 E. 33rd Ave.
Spokane

Chermak Construction Inc

655 Edmonds Way
Edmonds

Chris's Plumbing

1402 auburn way N
Auburn

Classic Nursery & Landscape Co.

16215 140th PL NE
Woodinville

Clean Crawls

3707 124th St NE
Marysville

Collier Plumber Inc

10814 5th Ave S
Seattle

Combined Construction, Inc.

4493 Russell Rd Ste G
Mukilteo

Construction Expeditors

16915 SE 272nd
Kent

Crawlspaces & Attics NW

22032 244th Ave SE
Maple Valley

CRIST & CRIST LANDSCAPE

19508 FALES RD
Snohomish

Croach Services

12919 NE 126th PL
Kirkland

Crown Hill Plumbing

8744 18th Ave NW
Seattle

Crown Plumbing

20210 156th Ave NE
Woodinville

Custom Paving

9525 3rd St SE
Lake Stevens

D & L Gutters

20725 196th Ave SE
Renton

D&J Land Services LLC

3235 40th Ave. SW
Seattle

Dales Helping Hands

1737 NW 56th St
Seattle

David's Plumbing and Sewer Service

516A South River Street
Seattle

Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating Inc

16614 13th Ave W
Lynnwood

Dirt Pros LLC

6418 Rebecca Ct SE
Auburn

Doc's Excavation and services LLC

225 137th st sw
Everett

DOGWOOD DESIGNS & LANDSCAPING

11501 Phinney Ave. N.
Seattle

Donald Halcom Plumbing

11356 se 298th Place
Auburn

Done Right Plumbing & Sewer Repair

316 NE 191st St
Shoreline

DP Palmer Painting & Restoration

9773 Arrowsmith Ave S
Seattle

Drain Pro Plumbing Inc

12219 Military Rd S
Seattle

Drain Tech

902 N 149th St
Shoreline

DRAINAGE SYSTEMS CONSULTANT

8630 17TH AVE SW
Seattle

Dreambuild Construction, LLC

P.o Box 1552
Graham

Driftwood Contracting

14710 38th Ave NE
Seattle

E R Elite Remodeling LLC

2011 Adams Ave
Everett

Earl Zackery Construction

P.O. Box 94784
Seattle

Earthscapes LLC

15852 174th Ave NE
Woodinville

EARTHWORX ASSOCIATES LLC

PO BOX 61325
Seattle

Eco Seattle

16410 84th St NE
Lake Stevens

Economy Septic Svc

PO Box 731292
Puyallup

EcoScape Designs

13735 Linden Ave N B303
Seattle

Ecoyards LLC

1605 S 93rd St
Seattle

ELEMENTS OF NATURE INC

18518 DENSMORE AVE N
Seattle

ENVIRONMENTAL CONSTRUCTION INC

2038 9TH ST W
Kirkland

ERC ROCKERIES INC

9050 11th Ave SW
Seattle

Erik D Plumber LLC

6229 NE 198th Street
Kenmore

Everett Handyman Service, LLC

8332 9th ST NE
Lake Stevens

EVERGREEN LANDSCAPE MANAGEMENT

23825 35TH AVE W
Lynnwood

Falling Water Designs

17516 Washington 203
Monroe

Father Nature Landscapes

PO BOX 7047
Tacoma

Fischer Plumbing

14320 Northeast 21st Street
Bellevue

Fischer Plumbing & Heating

1115 NW 51st St
Seattle

FIX HOME SERVICES

4616 25TH AVE NE
Seattle

Forrest & Forrest Construction Services

9353 Skylark Ct
Joint Base Lewis Mcchord

Fox Plumbing & Heating

7501 2nd Ave S
Seattle

Full Bore Inc

1546 NW 56th Street
Seattle

FUN YARDS USA/Green Gardens LLC

23507 50th Ave Ct E
Spanaway

Garden And Landscaping Services

17045 35th Ave S
Seatac

Gary's Pipelining and Drain Cleaning

9558 Greenwood Ave. N.#304
Seattle

Gene Johnson Plumbing & Heating

10011 Greenwood Ave N
Seattle

Green Planet Plumbing

2701 California Ave SW # 224
Seattle

Green Slate Landscaping Inc

PO Box 1406
Mukilteo

Green Spaces Landscaping LLC

19111 Ross Rd
Bothell

Green Tech Excavation

9812 Coral Dr SW
Lakewood

Greenlake Sewer & Drain

2710 W Manor PL
Seattle

GREENWOOD INTERNATIONAL

7353 148TH AVE NE
Redmond

Handyman to the rescue

16719 Corliss Ave N
Seattle

Hanley & Nelson Exteriors

2740 Sherman Ave.
Port Orchard

HH Gutter Services

PO Box 751
Monroe

Hoffman's Landscape, Inc.

PO Box 1041
Woodinville

Holm Handyman Service

11012 Canyon Rd
Puyallup

Hone Landscape & Excavation

PO BOX 1516
Maple Valley

Honorable Mention Construction

45119 284th Ave SE
Enumclaw

Horizon Building Inc.

8624 Pacific Ave.
Tacoma

Hunt's Plumbing and Heating

6225 4th St NE
Tacoma

Hydro Plumbing L.L.C.

3620 Sw Juneau St
Seattle

I Need a Plumber Now

19612 70th ave s
Kent

Iditarepair

3021 SW Bradford Street
Seattle

J & R Rockscapes

P.O. Box 2291
Issaquah

J and K Plumbing Inc

34127 183rd Ave SE
Auburn

J Zamora Construction Co LLC

25431 180th South East
Covington

JAKE THE PLUMBER

PO Box 55204
Seattle

Jaktak Construction

168 23 22nd Ave E
Tacoma

Jay Construction

4442 S 176th St
Seatac

JD BERGEVIN HOMES

PO Box 648
Woodinville

JD Hunt Paving LLC

315 169th St SW
Bothell

Jim Dandy Sewer & Plumbing

903 N. 128th Street
Seattle

Jim Graves Construction, LLC

3521 SW 104th St
Seattle

JOE MYERS CONSTRUCTION

4418 128TH PL SE
Everett

Johnson Custom Builders

16541 Redmond Way #103-C
Redmond

K & D Enterprise

PO Box 5121
Lynnwood

Kelpman Construction

PO Box 881320
Steilacoom

KERWIN LANDSCAPING

622 NW 116TH ST
Seattle

L&R Creations & Construction

16414 34th st ne
Snohomish

LAKE WASHINGTON LAND WORKS

26514 SE 216th St
Maple Valley

LANDSCAPE DESIGN & LANDSCAPE CONSTRUCTION, INC.

PMB337 16541 Redmond Way
Redmond

Landscape horizon and fencing

2414 S 222nd St
Seattle

LaValley Backhoe LLC

18019 121st Pl SE
Renton

LDL Enviro Services / Affordable Septic

5111 85th Ave East Suite 2
Tuiallup

LJM Home Services

2400 NW 80th St #252
Seattle

Lumpy the Plumber

2315 54th Ave SW
Tumwater

M & J Handyman Services, LLC

P.O. Box 1311
Rochester

Maintco Inc

11020 120th Ave NE
Kirkland

Majestic Landscape Services

21934 29th ave s B
Des Moines

Marksman Construction

6131 221st Ave NE
Granite Falls

Martin Excavating And Construction

18808 43rd Ave SE
Bothell

May Creek Landscaping

1420 NW Gilman Blvd
Issaquah

MBH Master Builder, LLC

1415 2nd Ave
Seattle

McLendon Home Services

906 Industry Dr
Tukwila

Merazas Sewer Services LLC

6830 NE Bothell
Kenmore

METROPOLITAN SEWER SERVICE LLC

3635 Thorndyke Ave W
Seattle

Mike Freund General Contractor

3427 23rd Ave W
Seattle

Mitchel Plumbing Co.

1602 Center St
Tacoma

MJO Homes llc.

5723 203rd st sw
Lynnwood

Modern Shelter LLC

906 19th ave E
Seattle

Mr. Rooter of Seattle

2000 S. 116th St
Seattle

N MI

PO BOX 25475
Seattle

nationwide construction & renovation

1919 196th St SW Unit 4
Lynnwood

Northwest Concrete Cutting

17005 190th Ave SE
Renton

northwest gardens alive

PO Box 31819
Seattle

Northwest Homework

2112 S Spokane St
Seattle

Northwest Native Landscapes

8903 27th Ave NE
Seattle

Northwest Sewer Repair

2442 NW Market St
Seattle

NW Patio Design

11014 19th Ave SE
Everett

NW Plumbing Connection Inc

5408 N 23rd St
Tacoma

Nw Sewer & Drain

PO BOX 55573
Shoreline

O'Neill Plumbing

6056 California Ave SW
Seattle

Olympic Landscape & Irrigation Co.

5620 112th St E.
Puyallup

Olympic Rockeries & Construction

7212 Renton Issaquah Rd SE
Issaquah

Outdoor Bound

7914 30th Ave SW
Seattle

Pacific Building Envelope

P.O. Box 7
Mukilteo

Pacific Living Construction LLC

1520 Eastlake Ave E, Unit 509
Seattle

Pacific Plumbing LLC

11725 SE 192nd Street
Kent

Paco Construction

4700 South Center Blvd.
Seattle

Paris Plumbing Inc

11535 15th Ave NE
Seattle

Patrick Taylor Construction

5012 N Whitman St
Tacoma

Pelling Construction

Box 309, 10015 Lake City Way NE
Seattle

Perks Preferred Plumbing LLC

12916 south east 247th place
Kent

Pinky's Plumbing

p.o.box 68133
Seattle

Pioneer Plumbing & Heating

6747 15th Ave NE
Seattle

Port Orchard Plumbing

3113 Garfield Ave SE
Port Orchard

Price Busters Plumbing

3212 NE 167th St
Seattle

Protocol Plumbing & Sewer

917 110th Pl SE
Everett

Quality Building Inc

7703 Linden Ave N
Seattle

Rain Pros Inc

1402 Lake Tapps Pkwy E
Auburn

Randles Landscape & Design

321 NE Valleyside Ln
Tahuya

Raymark Plumbing & Sewer

10710 Lake City Way NE
Seattle

RCP Preservation & Maintenance

10234 26th Ave SW
Seattle

Repipe Specialists of Washington Inc

100 Andover Park West
Seattle

Rescue Rooter Seattle - 9226

175A Roy Rd SW
Pacific

Reynolds Landscape Company LLC

PO Box 2281
Woodinville

rfk handyman services

5416 boston ave sw apt 9

RH DESIGN & CONSTRUCTION INC

3920 N 13TH ST
Tacoma

Robbins & Co

818 SW 142nd St
Seattle

ROCK SOLID LANDSCAPES

3300 NE 55TH ST
Seattle

Roto-Rooter

2551 Albatross Way

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1130 140th Ave NE
Bellevue

Rush Plumbing, Inc

PO Box 80962
Seattle

Santini General Contractings LLC

po box 2148
North Bend

Scalise Renovations

112th & Canyon Road
Puyallup

Sea-King Sewer & Rooter

8712 1st Ave NW
Seattle

Seattle Handyman Services

1409 NW 60th St
Seattle

Seattle Pipeworks

30701 229th Place SE
Black Diamond

Seattle Plumbing and Sewer Repair

3620 sw juneau
Seattle

Seattle Select LLC

PO Box 285
Redmond

Seattle Superior Waterproofing

10314 Dibble Ave NW
Seattle

Sewer Friendly, LLC

23930 Highway 99
Edmonds

Shenandoah Company

29641 196th Ave SE
Kent

Simple Plumber, LLC

8439 24th Ave SW
Seattle

Simply Sewers

P.O. Box 224
Stanwood

SITE PREP NW INC

815 N Stadium Way
Tacoma

SKN Works

1205 125th PL SW
Everett

Small World Industries

4614 Haleilio Rd

SOLSTICE LANDSCAPE DESIGN

13563 23rd Avenue NE
Seattle

Sound Flow Systems LLC

22530 SE 206th St
Maple Valley

SoundScape Landscaping

po box 12883
Bothell

South County Plumbing

18069 76th Ave W #E
Lynnwood

South West Plumbing And Heating

2401 SW Alaska St
Seattle

Spartan Services, Inc

760 107th St S
Tacoma

Speciality Insulation NW

218 main st
Kirkland

State Plumbing

Federal Way

Sterling Plumbing and Fire Safety

1537 NW Ballard Way
Seattle

Steven Bruns Inc

19250 SE 118th St
Issaquah

Straight Edge Asphalt

15715 13th Ave SW
Burien

Strictly Sewers Inc

2081 Cliffside Ter
Camano Island

Sunrise Contracting LLC

P.O. Box 11147
Olympia

Sunset Landscape & Design Inc

PO Box 786
Snohomish

Superior Earthworks LLC

10610 Woodley Ave S
Seattle

SUTTER PAVING

775 4TH AVE NW
Issaquah

Taisey Design and Construction

3703 288th St NW
Stanwood

Tallar Landscaping Inc

16014 74th Ave NE
Kenmore

Tank Wise

4321 Sw Portland St
Seattle

TERRA FIRMA HARDSCAPES

3327 FEDERAL AVE
Everett

The Drain Doctors

13300 Bothell-Everett Hwy
Bothell

The Plumber Inc

807 N 115th St
Seattle

The QM Team

3323 SW 344th St
Federal Way

Three Guys Concrete LLC

7905 Detroit Ave SW
Seattle

Topgun Plumbing LLC

131 Winesap Rd
Bothell

Trenchless Pipe Repairs LLC

3701 24th Street East Suite F-10
Sumner,

TT Landscape

3301 108th St SE
Everett

Tula, LLC

3432 14th Ave S
Seattle

United Pacific Construction Co

6550 42nd ave South West
Seattle

UNIVERSAL LANDSCAPE CORP

2108 116TH ST NE
Marysville

VanCleave Homes

@gmail
Tacoma

VISTA GARDENS

3015 SW 106TH ST
Seattle

Vortex Plumbing Inc

9620 S 242nd Ct
Kent

Wallingford Plumbing LLC

416 NE 43rd St
Seattle

Washington Plumbing and Heating Inc

12819 SE 38th St
Bellevue

Watershield Seattle

1715 S Forest St
Seattle

Watson Contracting LLC

PO Box 862
Monroe

WeHoneyDo.com Service Companies

10035 Main St
Bothell

Welch Handyman Service

400 SW 175th Place
Seattle

Werner Specialties, LLC

945 NW 56th Street
Seattle

Western Framers

30316 37th Ave S
Auburn

Wezee's Plumbing Inc

1526 NW 59th St
Seattle

White Glove Home Improvement LLC

19522 NE 181st
Woodinville

WSB Sheet Metal Co

14701 Main St NE
Duvall

Wu Construction

1709 139th Pl NE
Bellevue

Xela Construction

4602 148th Ave NE
Redmond

YORK CONSTRUCTION

PO BOX 556
Vashon

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