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San Jose Landscaping Mulch from people just like you.

"Job well done, is very responsive and has taken very good care of both of our homes. Even though I'm out of state, he took care of" my father's and my homes. He's willing to accomodate special requests and is very professional.

-Gina J.

"We are very pleased with our new lawn. 's quote was neither the highest or lowest. We were impressed with 's" knowledge. Some contractors came in and out and just gave us a quote. took his time and asked questions. In return we had more questions. Things we had not thought of. On the first day of work and everyday after, his crew were polite and professional. Very hard working. Our entire neighborhood is just buzzing on how great our lawn looks. We would definitely hire them again.

-Phyllis S.

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Local Articles in San Jose

man shoveling mulch

Mulch & Wood Chips

Mulch can be a lot of different things, but at its core it exists as a material that is applied to landscaping, walking paths and flower beds for aesthetic purposes, to suppress weed growth, retain moisture and supply nutrients to soil through decay.

one-story home on a hill with green lawn

Here's how to jump start your spring lawn and landscape projects.

Landscapers mulch to moderate soil temperature, conserve moisture, suppress weeds and to add organic matter to the soil as the shredded bark breaks down.

Looking to add some mulch to your landscaping?

"We are now able to enjoy the backyard with friends and family. The kids have somewhere to play, the family can roast marshmallows or just enjoy some music and a cold beverage." (Photo courtesy of Angie’s List member Tim Kelly of Huntersville, N.C.)

Is your yard so sloped, it's unusable?

Inspiration & Ideas

Blue front door
landscape with hemlock mulch
landscape with new trees, shrubs, flowers
fiber cement siding

Angie's Answers

I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.


One of the more difficult issues facing you will be making sure you compare apples 'n apples while understanding the differences between apples 'n oranges.

Some things common to all:

How far from your (water) meter pit to the home?

Do you know what sort of water pressure you have?

Those two questions sortta drive the rest.  How many sprinklers you have is a piece of the puzzle but it is lower on the issues list than how much water pressure and gallons per minute of flow (gpm) you have.  Knowing the water pressure and gpm coming to the house is important because it is the info divided by the flow rate of the heads to tell you how many you can run at a time.

 That, plus the number of heads it takes to cover your yard will let them decide on how many zones to cut the yard into (each zone is X number of heads that run at the same time).

Will the different estimates be for systems that are all parts from a single manufaturer or will it be a collection of brands?  Some will tell you that the parts (controller, back-flow, heads and even specific heads) are better from different manufacturers while others will tell you that all from a single manufacturer will give you an optimized system.

And, are the contractors equally certified?  Not only education and experience but certifications from the various manufacturers who's parts they want to use.  And, will their installations be the same?  Will they open trenches all around your yard and be a week getting the stuff layed, connected and back-filled?  Or, will they pull the flexible pipe and be in 'n out in one day with water flowing to cover their intrussion before they leave that day?

Will your system need to be blown out with pressurized air at the end of the season to avoid winter freeze and bursts or will it drain automagically?

I know, I took your simple question and made it hard.

When I bought my system about 9 years ago, I had a variety of estimates and the differences sortta fell into the mess I listed above.  The low estimate was a person who seemed to be from the "get it in the ground and fix it later" school.

The highest estimate was from someone who seemed more concerned about my yard and the final result than I was.  The low person was using parts 'n pieces from a variety of manufacturers.  The high person was certified by the company that made all the parts he was wanting to use and he carried a fairly high rating from them for his past performance..  He would vary for me if I wanted but he had sound reasons from the controller to each of the heads as to why he preferred his "brand".

It doesn't look like you are a member of Angie's List.  Given the size of the investment you are looking at, this might be a great time to join and see how others in your community have rated the contractors you are considering or if there is one you should add to your list. 

My yard is between 12 and 15,000 square feet less the house, deck, two mini-barns and it is interrupted with a number of blocking (blocks the stream of water) evergreens and planting beds.

The low estimate I had was about $2,500 and would take three days to put in from the time they began to trench.  I don't recall how many heads he wanted to put in but if it was off, he'd be able to put another anyplace and tie it to the nearest zone to give me good coverage.  Uh, this was the get it in the ground 'n adjust later person.

The high estimate I had was around $4,500.  This proposal was for seven active zones each having 5 to 7 heads.  There was enough capacity (extra zone controllers and space within the system controller) built in to add drip irrigation at a later date for the planting beds without having to replace anything.  He drew the entire yard and gave me a copy with the heads marked showing the "throw" of each and the overlap he built in to avoid any missed areas.  And, they wanted to arrive in the morning and leave that evening with the system watering to cover their tracks throughout the yard.  One day and they would not leave until it was working as advertised!

I took the high estimate.  I have a neighbor who bought from the other folks.  Both of us are happy.  He is really happy because each time he calls his company for adjustments or corrections (yep, they got it in the ground and are still putzing with it) they are out within the week, they are really easy to do business with and their service calls' costs haven't gone up a whole bunch.

Sorry, you can't look at the price and divide by X number of heads and have a fair comparison.


1) IF you are talking the root crown - the portion where it is not one solid truck or "bole", but still a solid or near-solid mass of roots coming off the base of the trunk, then that has to come out on way or another. Typically, once you get beyond about a 3 foot circle then you are in the radial portion of the roots where they spread out laterally, and are a foot or more apart, and new roots can grow in that area fro the new tree OK. Of course, be prepared to have to trim some volunteers so the old tree can't come back, and be sure to fertilize the new tree per recommendations because the old roots will still be trying to extract water and food from the soil to support the tree that they do not yet realize is gone. Do NOT put stump killer or poison in the old tree - will kill new one too.

2) The proper commercial way to do this is to have the entire root crown and larger roots removed with a stump grinder - looks like this -


You need a tree service that can grind down at least two feet below ground level and remove the root crown and larger root segments. If you hve large roots running laterally quite a ways, he can grind them up too - ditto to "trippers" sticking up above ground. Just be sure to have it clear (spray painted) upfront how far he is going for what he quoted - typically about $150 for tree up to 1-2 feet in diameter, up to $500 for a massive sycamore or walnut or cottonwood or redwood with 6 foot diameter crown. While you can rent stump grinders at tooll rental places, I REALLY do not recommend it - the rental ones you can afford to rent for one use are pretty light duty, and they can chew a person up in no time flat if you lose control when it snags in the wood or hits a rock.

3) Another way is to go out to where the massive roots taper off to something you can reasonable cut - say 4-6 inches in diameter, and cut them all in a circle around the stump, then with a come-along or CAREFULLY (not more than a few hundred pounds) with a vehicle with a trailer hitch, put a steady pull on a good rope or strap or chain in a shallow notch cut around the top of the stump (so it does not pop off easy), then while it is being rotated up out of the ground walk around and cut any root you see still attached or trying to lift out of the ground. This works much better if the stump is left about 4-6 feet high so you get some real leverage on it with the pull, but if already cut down short run chain or strap over the top of it and around a large root on the far side of the stump. I use a Sawzall with foot long coarse tooth wood cutting blade for this - goes through roots really fast, and blade is only $1 or so apiece so ruining one or two hitting rocks is no big thing, and also reaches in under the stump better and safer than an axe. I helped a neighbor take out a back yard full of birches this way - took us about half a day to remove about 15 trees with about 6 foot diameter circle of crown and roots, leaving holes about 1-2 feet deep where each tree was. Remember this - whichever way you use to take it out, you will need maybe 1-5 wheelbarrow loads of good growth medium to replace the divot. 

4) Cheaper route - cut off flush with ground level (or leave some stickup as a planter or stool or feeder base or whatever), and plant new tree at least 4 feet away from old crown, in a spot between the old roots.

'Reasonable' is one of those words that means wildly divergent things to different people.  Check with your local high school to see if they have  any sort of agricultural program.  If yes, perhaps someone in that program could help you.  Being a landscaper myself, I must say it sounds like you want something that is - first and foremost - cheap.   This is NOT the best way to look for any service.  You would be better served looking for 'competant' than with 'cheap'.  The nicer you want your flowerbed to look, the more important it is to find someone who REALLY knows what they are doing.

Mulch Delivering reviews in San Jose


Very professional service, gave estimate and recommendations for how to do job. Easy to work with and finished job quickly. Let place very clean.
- Susan D.

Landscaping Mulch in San Jose

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

7 Days Box

2647 Senter Rd
San Jose

About Green Land Care

5100 Montreal Dr.
San Jose


810 Espinosa Rd
Redwood City


PO BOX 61417

Baxter Landscaping Inc

6155 Almaden Expy
San Jose

Bay Area Tree Care

4055 San Simeon Wy
San Jose

Bay Maples: Wild California Gardens

488 East Saint John Street
San Jose


841 F St
Union City

Bright Eagles Construction

10381 Singleton Rd
San Jose

Budget M Landscaping Company

1930 SW Expressway
San Jose

Caffrey Landscapes

108 Belle Ave
San Rafael

Castello Landscape Construction

2580 Senter rd
San Jose


San Jose

Christopher Carlson Construction

730 w verano ave

CK Water Systems & Landscape Development

356 Spruce St
San Francisco



Creekside Gardening Services

1391 Woodland Ave.
Menlo Park

Custom Landscape

800 Longbrook Way Apt 175
Pleasant Hill

Custom Nature

324 3rd Ave S


PO BOX 62061

Dooling Landscape Service

388 Avenida Manzanos
San Jose

Dr Benson's Natural mix

4012 S Rainbow Blvd


Redwood City

Eco Friendly Energy Company

1102 S Abel St

Eco-Systems Landscape Solutions, LLC

410 Maple Street
Redwood City

Elemental Landscape and Design

2837 Gazelle Dr


1940 Lafayette St
Santa Clara

Everything Handyman

1701 North California Boulevard
Walnut Creek

Fernandez Yard Service

6265 Pachco Pass Hwy 152

Filice Enterprises, Inc.

1608 W. Campbell Ave. #344

FMG The Landscape Professionals

2225 Saint George Dr


San Jose

Gazal Landscaping

903 E El Camino Real Ste#6-200
Mountain View

GenEnt Home and Garden

PO Box 5039
Redwood City

Green Grass Property Maintenance

606 Altino Blvd
San Jose

Green Waste Recycle Yard

2550 Garden Tract Rd

H Builders, LLC

716 Stannage Avenue

Hansen Landscape Contractor

4600 Crow Canyon Pl.
Castro Valley

Home Depot

1700 W Hillsdale Blvd.
San Mateo

House Cleaning & Landscape Maintenance

359 Silver Ave
San Francisco


Morgan Hill


PO BOX 33282
Los Gatos

J&G Yard and Land Services

5551 Crow Canyon Rd
Castro Valley

Jenna Bayer Garden Design

1954 Old Middlefield Way
Mountain View


1670 S 7TH ST
San Jose

L & L - Ledesma Garden Service

4501 Snell Ave.
San Jose



Landscape Solutions

100 Mill Rd.
Los Gatos


8494 Lone Tree Way

Lifescape Custom Landscaping, Inc.

191 Coriander Ave
Morgan Hill


Los Gatos

LP Construction Company

360 E Evelyn Ave #440

M. Oteiza Landscape Mgmt

1257 Carson Street
Redwood City

Magnificent Services

P.O. Box 3263
San Jose

Mariposa Gardening & Design

1724 Rose St


48 Chester St
Daly City


15015 Los Gatos Blvd
Los Gatos

North Arrow Landscape Design

334 Encina Avenue
Redwood City


San Jose

Oscar's Expert Tree Service

3523 Cedar Flat Crt
San Jose

Palermo Tile & Construction

1821 Eight st

PJ Tree Service Inc

1957 Parkside Dr


1625 Beck Dr
San Jose


2028 Woodard Road
San Jose

Ron's Hauling

PO BOX 959

Rosa's Maintenance, Inc.

P O Box 53851
San Jose


PO BOX 182

Serenity Property Maintenance

12970 Highway 9
Boulder Creek

Shubha Landscape Design, Inc.

302 Hayes Ave.
Santa Clara

Solid Rock Inc

1060 Willow Street
San Jose

SolyLuna Landscapes

143 Mariposa Ave
Daly City

Sota Engineering

2943 Sherbrooke Way
San Jose


San Jose

SouthBay Design & Landscaping

1725 Rogers Ave
San Jose

Sunrise Grading & Paving

588 Lott Drive

Swansons Landscaping

521 Cinnabar Dr

The Davey Tree Expert Co - Menlo Park

119 Independence Dr
Menlo Park

The Davey Tree Expert Co- Santa Clara

1055 Commercial Ct
San Jose

The Professional Tree Care Co

PO Box 2377

Timberland Landscape Services

298 Windward Common




San Jose

Vasona Construction

4120 Business Center Dr

Walnut Creek Landscaping

3607 Village Rd

West Bay Landscape Co.

468 Perrymont Ave
San Jose


PO BOX 19561
Palo Alto



YourTurf, Inc.

31103 Rancho Viejo Rd
San Juan Capistrano

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