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"The sewer line backed up after several loads of laundry on a Sunday. They came out on Sunday and used a camera to find roots filled the line underground. They rooted" out what they could. They replaced the pipe from the house to the street revealing a six foot section of pipe filled with roots. They did this without digging a trench but just two holes. One at the house and one at the city connection thirty feet away. They did all the concrete work to replace parts that required access under paving.. It all took about one week with most of the time waiting for city inspectors to arrive.

-William C.

"I needed to get rotting plywood "siding" replaced on one wall of my 1906 Edwardian, and needed to have the entire exterior repainted. And I needed to get" it all done in about two months, before the rainy season. After getting separate estimates from a handful of painting contractors and siding contractors, I found based on his excellent Angie's List and Yelp reviews. immediately impressed me with his ability to understand what I was asking for and help me translate that into what I needed. 's quote was not the cheapest, but it was fair -- and it was the most-detailed estimate I received from any of the contractors I spoke with. I plan to be in this house for a while and wanted work that would last, and gave me the confidence he could deliver exactly that. is the general contractor and directly employees his own carpenters. He subs out painting, demolition, and other work. was on-site nearly every day, keeping an eye on the job, and he was in contact with me nearly as often. He was always easy to reach by phone and email, and returned messages promptly. The work on the siding went more quickly and smoothly than I had anticipated. With an old house, you expect complications along the way -- and we ran into a few, but worked through them and kept on schedule. Examples: Vibration from the exterior siding removal managed to damage some of the interior plaster. repaired and repainted the interior at his expense. The building inspector mentioned an upcoming code change that would require gypsum board on top of the plywood sheathing for fire protection. Since the code change wasn't in effect yet, the easy thing to do would have been to skip it. presented the options to me, worked out the (minor) additional cost, and - most importantly - figured out how to fit in the additional work without impacting the schedule. has some very talented carpenters working for him. We discovered rot in some of the detailed trimwork on the front of the house, and his carpenter was able to fashion (on-site!) a replacement that is indistinguishable from the original - exactly matching the nearby trim. The painting also got off to an outstanding start. The paint crew spent nearly three weeks doing absolutely meticulous prep work on the front of my house - scraping, patching, filling, caulking. They handled minor repairs themselves, and called in 's carpenters for a few cases where more significant repairs were needed (like the trim I mentioned above). Their clear attention to detail made me confident the paint job would last. However -- and this is my only complaint about the entire project -- when it came time to paint the back of the house the work was not up to the high standards of the rest of the project. The prep work was not as detailed, and the painting itself was sloppy -- e.g., the painters didn't bother masking the metal roof of an overhang, and it got covered with overspray; there were also a number of places where the paint was bubbling and cracking. When I complained to , he got the problems corrected promptly (and this is one reason I feel is absolutely deserving of an A rating for the entire project). It just seemed surprisingly out of character compared to the "do it right the first time" approach that 's subs delivered on the rest of the job. accommodated my requested changes along the way -- including a late decision to change from cedar siding to HardiePlank, and some added interior painting as long as the painters were on site. Costs for the additional work were reasonable and at exactly the rates in 's original quote. One more nice touch: called me several months after the job was complete, specifically to ask how the paint was holding up on the back of the house where I'd had the problems described above. It's great to find that level of accountability and follow-up in a contractor.

-Michael E.

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There are many reasons why homeowners need a professional to excavate their yard, concrete or around their foundation. In this guide to hiring an excavator, we'll dig into what situations require someone to do excavation work, what to look for when hiring an excavator, what you should do before you dig, alternatives to excavation, costs to excavate on your property and scams to avoid.

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Short answer - yes it is possible. However, generally you are looking at major $, and a lot of workers tracking dirt up and down the basement stairs unless you have (or can easily add) an outside basement door.

You would need a General Contractor as well as a foundation specialist if you use a General, who will handle permits, minor electrical, plumbing, and drywall repair issues even though most of the heavy work may be done by the foundation specialist subcontractor. If you go the lift beam method, then it might be a house mover doing the lifting, then the General and normal trades handling the rest.

When a house is built with a part basement and part crawl space, the footer (the concrete strip support pad the foundation wall is bonded to with rebar and sits on) typically sits a foot or two below the basement slab. Then, to save money, they "step-up" the footer to a shallower depth for the crawl space. This means that to deepen the crawl space to full depth, you also have to deepen the foundation. It is very rare to put in full depth foundation all around, then backfill part of it to crawlspace depth - if you have gone to the trouble of full depth foundation all around, why not pour a slab and sell the additional basement footage too ? See if you can come up with the builder's plans p they will show you what the footer does.

Deepening the crawl space to full depth is commonly done in one of two ways for residential jobs (there are several more sophisticated methods such as pin piles used on large or very tricky commercial jobs, or on historic buildings with weak foundations and walls) -

1) by carefully excavating the crawl space to the new footer depth (say about 5-8 feet below ground level, depending on whether you have a daylight or full basement) bit by bit along the foundation (3-5 feet at a time, typically), usually tearing out the existing foundation for that section while temporarily support the existing wall and joists, then pouring a new concrete footer and foundation wall up to the bottom of the house beams. Occasionally, they will be able to leave the existing wall and pour the new foundation up to and connect to the bottom of it. Then you move on and do another section the same way, so you are incrementally removing dirt, building a new wall section, then moving on. This is quite expensive because of the limited work space and difficulty of getting materials in and waste dirt and old foundation materials out, and the slow progress due to having to wait for concrete to set before you can buid the wall on the footer, and before you can move on to the next section.

2) by cutting slots in the existing crawl space walls and sliding heavy steel beams through  crossways under the floor joists and picking up the weight of the section of the house over the crawl space on jacks, elevating it about 1/2 inch above the existing foundation, all at one time. Then they can remove the existing crawl space foundation and all the dirt all at once, and pour a new footer and pour or lay a new foundation up to the bottom of the walls, then lower the house back onto it and pull out the support beams.

Either way, because of the restricted work space and waitingon concrete setting, the excavation and new foundation will cost about 2-4 times as much as one done outdoors. Therefore, while this type of job is done on occasion, a contractor's or architect's estimate usually shows that you can build a totally new one story extension or Florida room for not an exorbitant amount more, and that new space is worth a lot more to most homeowners, and certainly to a new buyer, than basement space.

As one example, we had two neighbors years ago who had the numbers run by an architect, and for one the estimate was only 30% more to build a large Florida room than to reclaim a crawl space about 1/3 smaller in floor area. For the other they could get the foundation and rough framing (without siding, roof, or interior) for a basement-less new addition the same size for the same price as digging out the crawl space. For this reason, when crawl space expansion is done on a residence, it is usually a do-it-yourself job (and you have to be pretty experienced to do it right).

One other factor of significance if you dig out the crawl space is all the utilities (wiring, pipes, ducts, etc) have to be checked to see that there is freedom of movement at the interface between the area over the crawl space and the rest of the house, as there is bound to be a little bit of movement between them. It is also almost inevitable that there will be minor non-structural cracking and slight separation of plaster or drywall walls and ceilings at the junction area over the first couple of years afer construction. Nailed-down hardwood flooring and vinyl near the interface can also buckle, though "floating" laminate floors are usually OK. Of course, if the contractor is incompetent or inexperienced, serious damage to the house can result, particularly if the foundation collapses while he is digging.

Therefore, I would not recommend this route except for a very expensive house (as in building a wine cellar or safe room), a historic house where additions are prohibited, or one the owners just love and intend to live in for many more decades but do not have land space for an addition. I would put the money into an addition if you need the additional space and have the land.

Well the fact is he is going to have to pull permits which means it has to be inspected before he is done, you also have to consider the equiptment that he has to bring out to the jobsite to do the job and the man power plus materials, it's costly, but I am not from your area so if you are unsure call another company out and see what they say.
Don't tell them what the other company said as far as price.

It is almost certain that you will have to modify the foundation to make it deeper too - and that is MAJOR structural work.


You need a civil/geotechnical engineering firm with experience in foundation rehab and putting in basements under existing homes to design the process and prepare and seal the plans and specifications, which you will need before you can get a building permit for this. They will also be able to help you select either a foundation excavation or a house moving and jacking company to do the actual work for you.


The engineer can also help you with a cost estimate - because I think you will be surprised how much this is going to cost. I have designed or managed quite a few such jobs, from highrise buildings to homes, and even the smallest houses of about 600SF footprint ran at least $15,000, and generally house basement excavations run more like $25-40,000 unless the foundation was originally designed for it but for some reason the basement was never put in, which is VERY rare except in very deep frost areas were footings are occasionally deep enough to allow a basement to be dug without deepening them. I worked on a couple back east that ran about $100,000 each because they were old 2-story brick buildings, which are very sensitive to differential movements - probably like yours.


A couple of other factors to consider is that in doing this you are likely to get at least some minor drywall cracking and door and window jamming, and be sure the contractor is insured and bonded to the hilt and for the potential rebuild value of the house, not just the job cost, because a major mistake can turn your house into a teardown. Not common, but the less experienced the contractor the more likely he is to do something dramatically wrong, and at the same time the smaller and less experienced contractors generally have lower coverages so your risks is compounded in two ways. With a row home you have the added risk of damaging adjacent units.


One thing to consider cost wise before you go ahead - I have worked a couple of jobs where it turned out cheaper and far safer to scrap the digging in a basement idea and put in an addition with same footprint instead. However, looking back I see you are in a row home, so that is likely not going to work. However, being in a row home, especially if on the Potomac flats south or east of the capital area, the soil conditions are generally the pits once you get off the Georgetown heights, so putting a basement under a rowhome without disturbing the other ones is VERY difficult and pricey - I would be surprised if you could do it for less than $100,000.

One other factor is utilities - one of the first things to do is check depth to any utilities like sewer lines, the Metro, etc - if you are over one of those that could well put your project totally out of the frame of reality.


You asked for a recommendation - one who specializes in this type of work that I would recommend, though your job might well be too small size for them - but they might be able to give you an engineer and contractor recommendation if so. Company name is Schnabel Foundation Company in Sterling Va and Bethesda, MD in your area - website www.schnabel.com. They could handle both the engineering and construction.

If the windows are being put in by a general contractor, he can easily handle the window wells too. If you were looking for a window installer to do the windows, they might or might not do the window wells as well - some do, some do not. A small one-man excavation company can do this excavation, as can a handyman as it just takes about 1/2-1 hour shovel work per window in normal soil conditions, because the soil around the foundation is already pretty loose from foundation constructiuon (as a rule). Just be sure they pour concrete in the bottom to keep water from coming under the well, and that it is firmly fastened to the foundation and liberally asphalt sealed at the interface with the concrete - not just caulked at the edge, but mastic-coated on cleaned concrete BEFORE the window well in installed and concrete poured in the bottom. (Note - the concrete depends on soil conditions and water level - if your soil is pretty free draining and groundwater level never comes up to bottom of window well, then a gravel bed in the bottom is best so it stays dry - but if groundwater rises that high or you are in real impermeable soil like clay, then concrete works best. If concrete bottom is used, you probably want to have the clear acrylic window well cover put on too to keep water and frogs and such out. Of course, if this is an emergency egress window, you cannot put the plastic covers over it legally.

Wow - from way general to totally specific - nice job, you have your scope of work almost ready to contact potential bidders about giving a bid - just need to double check each item hads quantities attached to it, plus a plan with depths (or specify tie-in elevations to existing pipe and required drain/pipe slopes - say 1% or more). Search the List (in green banner bar) for Earthwork and Excavation contractors in your area with good reviews and ratings.

here is a very rough idea of costs - obviously you need bids to tie it down, this should just give you a ballpark to compare to - assuming all this work is done at the same time.

1) & 2) - Tree and rock maybe $100 - more like $200 if you want the stump totally rooted out rather than just the stump and root crown taken out.

3) Walk removal and disposal probably about $100-200 - maybe half if these are 3-4 inch individual concrete squares or rectangles that can be skidded to the side, the excavation and ground sloping done, then slid back into place with a backhoe or bobcat or by wood skids and prybar, eliminating the hauling and disposal cost.

4) Excavation and disposal of soil probably about $20-30/CY, because you are talking a small quantity. Cheaper if you have an on-site area it can be spread out onsite for disposal, or stockpiled in yard as a future project dirt pile, if that is suitable.

5) You don't say what the existing drain is - underground drain for downspouts maybe ? For shallow burial, probably about $5/LF or so. Why square - round is cheaper and far stronger for given material thickness.

6) Fence R&R probably about $150-200, depending on depth of posts and whether concreted in or not.

7) vegetation removal - not knowing how much, $100-200

8) Garden wall around $10-12/SF assuming excavated material from yard is suitable for the general backfill - remember should go 4-12 inches below grade for stability (4" for this wall, more like 6-12 for higher front wall)

Front/side yard:

1) Move large boulder - $50-100

2) vegetation removal and relocate 3 shrubs - $150-300 (not knowing how much vegetation orhow big shrubs are)

3) excavation at $20-30/CY again as above

4) sprinkler system relocate/repair - $75-150

5) garden wall around $12-15/SF as above including concrete footer needed for this height wall

6) area drain laterals about $5-10/LF, assuming not over 3 feet deep

7) slab drainage - I don't know where the quick lime idea came from, but this is a no-go - it will remove a small amount of water (maybe 5-20 gallons) from the soil one-time - it has no long term function as it will quickly become saturated. You are actually likely to have 5 wet circles in your concrete slab from this forever, as the lime will act as a soggy sponge, retaining water that would otherwise wick away. If you have or expect a basement slab moisture problem, then you need a sump pump with sump installed, and possibly (depending on how free-draining the base material under your slab is to carry waer to the sump pump) lateral drains cut in below the perimeter of the slab. Can run from $800-1500 range for a pump and pit depending on capacity and wiring situation, plus $500-1000 for an emergency battery-powered backup if desired. $1000-2500 range typically if lateral drains around the perimeter of the slab are necessary. Cheaper but sloppier and moisture-causing solution is small trenches or above-slab channels to carry the water to sump pump. These laterals are commonly held off on till you see if the sump pump can handle the issue itself, ASSUMING you have unfinished basement so a bit of seepage aroundbthe slab does no more damage than needing a mopping up. Personally, unless you have a continual seepage of water into basement or it is finished so leakage is critical, I would leave sump pump and drains for later - to see if your surface drainage changes eliminates the basement dampness problem, which it commonly does unless your water table rises to the basement slab level. Also, having a sump pump implies water issues and tolls against any future buyer finishing an unfinished basement, so it detracts from resale value if you have one.

Note these are off-the-cuff type numbers, NOT any sort of deliberate estimate - but I felt it was better to give you a ballpark than to just say go get estimates. Except for the floor drains, this sounds like a good job for a small 1-3 man excavation and hauling company, but make sure they have experience in putting in drain pipe and block walls and have good references in that area.

Note- if you are inclined to do it yourself work and have the time, most of this is good homeowner home improvement project material. You could have a contractor with a bobcat or small tractor with small backhoe come and pull the fence posts out (you could remove the above-ground apart easily), trench for the pipes, maybe move the rocks and sidewalk (though you could do that yourself with a few scraps of wood as skids and a 5 foot prybar assuming the walk is in piece, not continuously reinforced, and to do the bulk excavation and hauling for you, leaving the vegetation clearing, pipe work, trench backfilling, final slope dressing, block wall building, transplanting, etc to you - could cut your cost about 1/3-1/2. Basement slab drainage I consider a separate issue which would not cost significantly different if done as part of this job, or later if drainage channels or slab french drains are deemed necessary.

For the excavation - remember to get utility locates - I recommend once for bidding so they know where utilities are, then require the bidder to get relocates just before excavation starts. Gas, telephone, cable TV are commonly less than a foot down - water and sewer usually 3 feet or more but don't count on it. Also worry about septic system is you have that, and any power or water lines to/from well if you have a well. Plus of course your sprinkler system if in the way of proposed excavation.

Good Luck with your project


Excavating reviews in San Francisco


& his crew dug up invasive bamboo and then dug a trench for placement of a bamboo . Although he doesn't advertise landscaping, he & his crew did a great job after discussing how to accomplish our goals. We earlier had his crew excavate the entire length of our fence for this same purpose ...More (this took several days and was more expensive - $800) and we were so pleased that we had them come back and dig the trench along our front fence. We'll definitely be calling them back to finish off the last remaining area.
- david S.

I was very pleased with 's attention to detail and commitment to the job. He answered questions as they arose and gave me options to work with along the way. He stayed on budget. I'm very happy with my new deck, stairs, concrete and door. I have no hesitancy in recommending .
- Mark E.

Mullhall Construction stepped in and professionally took over the job after our initial contractor informed us that he was unable to start the project. The workers from on our site showed up on time every day and were courteous and professional. The lead on the job asked appropriate questions and was open to my comments and concerns. ...More checked in with me regularly to make sure the project was moving forward smoothly and to be sure I was happy with the work that was being done and to make sure I was happy with his employees. The foundation they installed is solid and the stairs and porch cover are a beautiful entrance to my home. makes sure all of the details are taken care of. Overall, I was very pleased with my experience. I found communication with and his crew easy, the work professional, and everyone was trustworthy.

I am from the mid west and have worked with contractors, both here and there. I can honestly say that and his crew has been the best overall. I observed during the project that is an honest, hard working guy that is extremely concerned with keeping me the costumer, both happy and well informed throughout ...More each project. He knows what he is doing and has high standards, but actually listened to me. also has Architectural and Interior design consultancy. I found that this service was unique for contractor but very helpful. They charge me for this service on an hourly rate that was very reasonable. I lived in the house while the work was being done, and it was completed on time and w/minimal disruption. I highly recommend that you consider A+
- Ann O.

Having perform this work is the best decision we ever could have made. He is, without a doubt, an artist. This property is a TIC, a that was built in 1884 and our partner lives in NYC so when it came to designing the newels, let's just say there was a lot of input. Camera-phone pictures, antique photos, ...More drawings, mind-changing, etc. We went over thirty different designs, and always listened and brought his ideas to the table with a knack for absorbing where we were all going. He was always available by phone, had total access to our garage/shop, always left his workspace immaculate and was ALWAYS a pleasure to deal with. has a great sense of humor; this is very important to us. We have a pretty busy neighborhood with a lot of pretty "dynamic" characters around; my neighbors appreciated 's sensitivity to parking and car-jockeying, noise issues, debris, and such. Most importantly, was always open to our input on design issues and offered excellent advice and solutions. For example, we couldn't really decide what kind of finials we wanted, so actually designed an ingenious feature that will enable us to remove and exchange the finial base until we can! This he did of his own accord and at not additional cost to us!
- Alan F.

The job went very well. Nato, the owner, proved very responsive. He came for an estimate the day of the call and answered all my questions addressed my concerns. A quote was made on the spot. The work was performed on schedule and per the quote. There were no costs or unexpected issues. He was flexible and accommodated ...More some additions to the work and helped us find solutions to our drainage issues. The workers were professional and friendly. The crew seemed quite organized. Supplies arrived on time and the workers got the job done expediently. Nato again, was very responsive. He always called back right away and gave us summaries at the end of the day. There was one minor issue with the sprinkler system that showed up a day after the job was done (a wire had gotten loose) and Nato came out and fixed the problem within a couple hours of being called. Overall, I highly recommend . They are clean, professional, responsive, courteous and really understand what good customer service is. And while they are based in San , they had no problem coming to the city.
- Michael C.

It went very well, surprisingly well. I was more involved with the process at the beginning, but toward the end, I handed over control to the contractor. He finished it up swiftly which was nice, given I was eight months pregnant.
- vicki I.

came out on Friday to explain the job to and . On Monday, and and two other crew members came out and worked all day digging. On Tuesday, they laid out the pipes and then put all the dirt back in the ground. We were worried that we ...More could not use our toilets for a couple of days but it was only for half a day on Tuesday. By end of the day Tuesday, it was completed. They poured the concrete on Thurs. and Friday (only because the concrete folks forgot to do the concrete in the garage). Really quick, and not disruptive at all. Much less painful than I had anticipated. They also moved a bunch of stuff in the garage for us in order to do the job. Really professional and was always a phone call away. I only wished the clean up was faster.
- Ping M.

Excavators in San Francisco

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1-877 Dump Pro

130 Market Pl
San Ramon


P.O. Box 355

5K Design & Construction Inc

515 Highland Ave
San Mateo

A Professional Pool & Spa

1648 Sundown Ln
San Jose



A2Z Construction Co

1037 Sherry cir

Accelerated Building Contractors

P.O. Box 15453
San Luis Obispo

ACE Plumbing & Rooter Inc

2200 Jerrold Ave
San Francisco


2410 Bates Ave

AGCI, inc

336 Bon Air Center # 104




990 W 10TH ST

Aqua Gunite Inc

5830 S Naylor Rd

Arbortech Inc

1413 Industrial Pkwy W

ARCC Builders

320 6th Ave
San Francisco

Arch Plumbing Inc

459 fulton st suite 10
San Francisco

Asphalt Surfacing Inc

980 Ames Ave


San Francisco

B A Morrison

2544 Castro Valley Blvd
Castro Valley

B Side Construction

1940 Union St

B. Birmingham Inc. General Contractor

70 Hernandez Ave
San Francisco

Baron Construction and Remodeling co,

14510 Big Basin way

Bay Area Grading & Paving

4251 Hwy 116 S

Bay Area Hauling Bobcat Service

1151 Spencer Ave
San Jose

BB&B Builders Inc.

44 Indian Rock ct.
San Anselmo



Bellizzi Tree Service of San Jose

6066 McAbee Rd
San Jose


San Francisco


220 Mar Vista

Beyond Builders

181 2nd Avenue
San Mateo

Bitencourt Hauling

5534 Jefferson Ave


1160 Brickyard Cove Rd. Suite 200

Bruno's Hauling and Cleaning

PO Box 27481
San Francisco

Buhler Construction Company

3614 16th St. #1
San Francisco

Butler Concrete Construction

88 South Third Street
San Jose


South San Francisco

Cahalan Construction Co.

2022 12th Avenue
San Francisco

Caleb Kinser Construction

337 Winfield St
San Francisco

Capp Construction

5721 Salmon court
Discovery Bay

Carson Manufacturing Co

711 Portal St

CDL Construction

732 Gettysburg Way

Choates Construction

4861 Pacheco Blvd

Christopher Carlson Construction

730 w verano ave


San Francisco


San Francisco


38850 Farwell Dr

Cook Construction

San Francisco

Creative Ponds And Gardens

PO Box 505



Dale Plumbing & Heating Inc

2925 Crocker Avenue
Redwood City

Diamond Pavers

21934 Rockford Rd

Dig & Demo

1250 Oakmead Pkwy. Suite 210

Discount Plumbing

1325 Howard Ave., #710

Discount Plumbing & Rooter

1330 Valota Rd
Redwood City

DO Concrete


Dufficy Fine Carpentry & Design

660 Alvarado St
San Francisco

Durabuilt Construction

690 West Fremont Ave #15

Eco-Systems Landscape Solutions, LLC

410 Maple Street
Redwood City


San Francisco


30 North Freemont Ave
San Mateo

Fast Haul

2350 Carquinez Ave
El Cerrito

Federal Paving Systems, Inc.

4751 Hilltop dr.
El Sobrante



Fleece Construction

PO Box 6001

Foster's Constructon & Electric

5554 Amby Drive
San Jose


255 Par Blvd

G&S Paving Inc.

2115 Michelle Ln

Geiler Plumbing

12 Columbine Ct


3624 Irving St. Suite A
San Francisco

Generation Builders

P.O. Box 23

Ginsburg Construction

221 Martin Dr.

Gopher -It Trenchless

21675 Arnold Dr

Gragg Paving

po box 5246
Redwood City

Grant Plumbing

990 Shoal Dr
Foster City


58 Paul Dr Ste H
San Rafael

Green starr/Yard boss

1155 Valencia Way


15 Crown Court
San Mateo

Groundbreaking Landscapes

461 Molino Ave
Mill Valley

Guideline Builders

333 Hegenberger Road #315


San Francisco

Harbour Construction

4000 Ocean Ave.
San Francisco

High Tech Construction

PO BOX 1126
Morgan Hill

Hildebrand Renovation INC.

550 Montford Ave
Mill Valley

Hurricane Hauling & Demolition, Inc.

55 De Luca Pl
San Rafael

iBuild Construction

2765 Hunter st.
Palo Alto

Ilse Concrete Costruction

25A Crescent Dr
Pleasant Hill

Impact Pavers

5810 el dorado ave

In & Out Plumbing & Construction

735 Hickey Blvd


South San Francisco


2036 Nevada city hiwy
Grass Valley

Jackson's Paving, Inc.

5373 Faught Road
Santa Rosa

Jeffrey R. Tucker Construction

789 Knoll Drive
San Carlos


PO BOX 620114
Redwood City

Johnson's Tree Care Inc

2582 Forest Avenue
San Jose


2397 Spring St
Redwood City

King Construction

3020 Bridgeway

KRB Construction

707 Continental Circle



Larson Landscape

833 Promenade Ct
San Jose

Lassiter Excavating

6443 Southfront Rd


8494 Lone Tree Way

Linscott Engineering Contractors

397 Smith Ranch Rd
San Rafael

LP Construction Company

360 E Evelyn Ave #440

M&M Construction & Home Design

1647 Willow Pass Rd

maintainance services

1271 eucalyptus drive

Makoni Construction

PlO. Box 2445
Menlo Park

Makoni Construction Inc

PO Box 2445
Menlo Park


1262 44TH AVE
San Francisco


San Carlos


San Francisco

Marcos Leon Construction, Inc.

275 9th Avenue
San Francisco

Marin Construction

501 Old County Rd


1983 9TH AVE
San Francisco

Marvel Architecture

1278 25th Avenue #2
San Francisco

Matthew Griffin Trucking

9102 E Lathrop Rd


Daly City

McGowan Builders

1559 Noe Street
San Francisco


2225 Ingalls St
San Francisco

Mission City Construction, Inc.

1940 Lafayette St
Santa Clara

Moreno Construction

PO Box 280511
San Francisco


1111 BAY RD
Palo Alto

MTM Building Group

1610 Dell Ave

Mulhall Construction

1278 25th Avenue #2
San Francisco

Nationwide Secure inc.

3215 Calhoun Ct

NewCali Construction

465 6th St
San Francisco

Newtown Construction

PO Box 3478
San Rafael

Noble Construction

1670 S. Amphlett Blvd Suite 214
San Mateo


P.O Box 317

NT Construction

6258 Hayes St.

nugent constructors inc

721 Old Creek Road

O'Grady Plumbing

1610 Evans Ave
San Francisco

One Way Landscape

1424 Sierra Road

Paul Power Construction

430 21ST AVE
San Francisco


San Francisco

Peninsula Concrete Contractors Inc

967 Round Hill Rd
Redwood City

Peninsula Dirt WRX Inc.

1098 Independence Av, Suite A
Mountain View

Peninsula Hauling & Demolition Inc

839 Cherry Ln
San Carlos

PJ Construction

1206 Sierra Village Way
San Jose

Pool Be Gone Demolition & Demolition

2350 westcliff ln
Walnut Creek



ReBuild Green

2625 Middlefield Rd #106
Palo Alto

Rhino's Hauling & Demolition

728 Crompton Rd
Redwood City

Rock Solid Concrete

P.O. Box 14

Roroman Plumbing

5100 Bickford Cir

Rowland Construction Co

500 Persia Ave
San Francisco

Rudolph Lukas

Santa Clara

RWR Construction, Inc

200 Gary Place
San Rafael

S A S Bobcat Service

1623 York Ave
San Mateo


546 Market Street
San Francisco

Sandoval Engineering

17338 Serene Dr
Morgan Hill

Saribalis Construction

36 robinhood dr

Sequoia Landscaping

2286 Mora Drive
Mountain View

Shaz Construction & Design

PO Box 1083

Silva Contractors Inc

2550 Appian Way

Simon Construction co.

3100 El Camino Real #D

Sky Renovation

5632 Van Nuys Blvd
Van Nuys

Smart Remodeling and Design Inc

1501 19th Ave
San Francisco

SOD Builders Inc

1631 N. 1st Street
San Jose

Sovereignty Plumbing

102 Mountain Rd.
South San Francisco


26003 Eastman Ct

Tim Lawlor Construction

418 N Buchanan Circle



Tou Bar Equipment Company Inc.

2535 Pulgas Ave
E Palo Alto


San Francisco

Van Note Construction

PO Box 826
San Miguel

Vargas Construction

664 Red Rome Ln

Vasona Construction

4120 Business Center Dr

Viking Pavers Inc

51 Washington Ave
Point Richmond


2727 39TH AVE
San Francisco


PO Box 2
South San Francisco

Wickman Development And Construction

319 Rutledge Street
San Francisco

Wilkinson Design & Construction Inc.

46 Greenfield Dr
San Anselmo

Wilkinson Design+Construction Inc.

72 Clayton Street
San Rafael


San Francisco

Yoel's Hauling

San Francisco

Zinc Builders

1325B Evans ave
San Francisco

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