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" came out the same day we called. Not only did he do a thorough evaluation of our situation (which does not call for any service from his" company), but he also spent a good amount of time advising us on a totally unrelated problem with our floors. And accepted no payment for any of it! What a great guy and great experience!

-Wendy F.

"Air duct cleaning great. Dry wall removal great. Not sure about treatment of wood, some dark areas now appearing. Clean up ok.

-Mike M.

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Local Articles in San Antonio

removing black mold

Mold Removal and Remediation

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

mold remediation contractor removes baseboards

Few things strike fear and anxiety in the hearts of homeowners as strongly as the presence of mold.

mold remediation contractor secures home

It's never good news when a homeowner discovers mold, especially dangerous black mold, somewhere in the home.

circles of mold growth in wood cabinets

Homeowners can't solve a mold problem by selling their home to an unsuspecting buyer. Here's what buyers and sellers should know.

There are three major home repairs you have to do if you want to protect the value of your home. While they aren’t fun, you can’t put them off. See if you agree with these three unsexy home improvement projects you just have to do.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in San Antonio


On Friday the 19th of June, I called in the morning to get the price of this service because we want to buy a house with a questionable mold growth in the garage. The secretary (or whatever she was) took my information and transferred me to one of their workers (should have taken names but I wasn't sure I was still going to be using their service). ...More The guy she transferred me to gave me the prices but I did not have a pen and asked him to email me the information. He said he would but they were busy and would do it by the end of the day. He didn't. I have a lot of patience and didn't worry about it. It could have slipped his mind. I don't have a problem with that. It happens. My wife and I decided we were going to hire someone by Saturday the 20th and decided to use their services. I called and spoke to the same secretary who seemed, preoccupied, for lack of better words. Considering the first and second day she lacks friendly phone skills. In any event, she said she was going to have to call back and made sure they still had my information (When I called I mentioned I called the day before; I was NOT being rude; and asked if I could set up the inspection). They never called back. Now, I understand businesses get busy and they may do an excellent job when they do remediation and inspections, but when a money making business fails to respond to a potential customer twice, I just have to say they need to do some business remediation and get back on track with their customers.


and were great workers, explaining the process and answering all the questions I had. Very considerate, they covered all the furniture with plastic and afterward vacuumed for any stray dirt or dust. I joked that I got a free vacuum cleaning out of the deal.
I felt very confident, and relieved, that ...More I had a clean air system after they finished. I would certainly use again.

- John M.

It was easy to perform test but took a really long time to get results. Maybe it got lost in the mail but it took a good 2 weeks from start to finish. The results were good although I wasnt really sure what they meant. I was looking for more of a good good or bad. They broke down all the different types that were present and basically recommended to ...More get air quality test if needed. Overall it was fine for the cost.

- Allison E.

removed rotten wood, shower tiles, shower , drywall, patches of carpet. They identified all areas where mold had traveled and treated all the wood. They sealed the bathroom area and left equipment overnight to ensure the drying process was complete. I was thoroughly impressed by the attention to detail ...More and the care they took in the removal of materials. They took extra precautions to ensure other areas of the bathroom would not get damaged. They left the area EXTREMELY neat, even the sealing of the area was so professional and neat. I have to say that I expected the price to be sky high...and after seeing the service we received for $1,200, I am surprised my bill wasn't higher. I found on Angie's List as I was clueless as who to call and/or where to go. (I'm still waiting for a call back from my insurance contact.. ha!) I would highly recommend to anyone that goes through a similar situation!!
- Sheila E.

provided exceptional service. The kit was complete and easy to use. The communication from the company was exceptional with e-mail notifying us of the expected arrival dates for everything. The collection of the mold samples was very easy to accomplish. provided a detailed report, complete with photos, ...More explaining the types and number of mold spores identified on the samples. They also explained the " level" associated with the various types of mold spores. This went a long way toward alleviating the angst associated with finding mold in the HVAC system. I highly recommend if you want fast, accurate results.
- Michelle M.

First off the builder paid the bill as part of my home warranty. So that is why i don't know the price.
They were called on a Friday to come check for mold, they were at my house in 2 hours. They identified a huge problem. By Saturday morning i had an industrial dehumidifier and air filter set up.
when it ...More was time to treat the wood they showed up on time and were very professional. I am not an expert but when they left it looked like they cleaned every 2x4 with a toothbrush. they were completely dry to the touch and the smell was gone.
after the dry wall and tile was replaced they showed up on time to remove their industrial equipment. Again they were fast, clean, and professional.
- Eli C.

After a sever pipe burst, was prompt to my house to minimize the water damage and to clean it up quickly. They were able to perform mold tests to give me piece of mind nothing bad was lingering in my walls. They were also able to give me pricing for the build back of the walls that were too damaged to allow to remain which ...More they performed. I was fortunate that my insurance deductable was all that I had to pay even though the pricing was reasonable. I now regulary use them for my carpet cleaning.
- Mitchell P.

After a poor experience attempting to deal with a very heavily advertised and well known company, I was referred to , who is the parent company of Remediation, a licensed mold remediation company. Their representative and man in charge of the division, , kept all promises and was ...More on the job frequently checking his men's work. He kept appointments promptly and did an exemplary job. His men arrived on time, cleaned up well every day, and did the job promptly. I was exceptionally pleased that the licensed independent mold consultant who wrote the protocol was to follow, the state health inspector who made the required inspection of the work in progress, and the contractor I selected to do the build-back all were complemented with highest praise the quality of work that was done by . While the other company's bid was less expensive, you pay peanuts, you get monkeys. I would absolutely refer anyone to if promptness, quality, and fair price are priorities.

Mold Removal Experts in San Antonio

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!


7224 Eckhert Rd.
San Antonio

1st Choice Abatement & Demolition

8111 Mainland Dr. ste.104-419
San Antonio

911 Restoration of San Antonio

4017 Naco perrin
San Antonio

A & J Foundation and Construction

3801 Davenport

A1 Steamers

1545 Trailridge Dr
Canyon Lake

AAA Restoration

5406 Vista Creek
San Antonio



Action Restoration, Inc.

2 Hill View Ln


321 W Josephine St
San Antonio

Aladdin Cleaning & Restoration

315 W Josephine St
San Antonio

Aladdin Environmental LLC

321 W. Josephine
San Antonio

American Land Clearing & Demolition

25930 IH-10 West
San Antonio

ARTEC Services Group LLC

1965 Post Rd
Canyon Lake

AZTECA Designs,Inc

6852 Alamo Downs Parkway
San Antonio

Blackmon Mooring

4808 Perrin Creek
San Antonio

CAP Construction & Environmental

1716 S San Marcos #105
San Antonio

Clean Environments Inc

2800 NE Loop 410 Suite 105
San Antonio

COIT Cleaning of San Antonio

4246 Gatecrest
San Antonio

Creative Craftsman Inc.

7322 W. Military Drive
San Antonio

Doza Construction

9310 Broadway St Ste 203
San Antonio

Elite Apartment Services

13814 Lookout Road
San Antonio

Emergency Remediation Medics

12010 Warfield St
San Antonio

First Call Restoration

11826 Radium
San Antonio

Five Star Home Inspections Inc

421 Golfcrest
San Antonio

Four Square Home Services

PO Box 18593
San Antonio

Fresh Air

2418 Basse Road
San Antonio

FWR, General Contractors, LLC

910 Oblate Dr
San Antonio


San Antonio

Home Inspection All Star San Antonio

8018 Boradway Street
San Antonio

Jenkins Restorations

13111 Lookout Run
San Antonio

Jesse-James Contracting & Remodeling

3822 Deerfield Dr
San Antonio


2010 S Brazos St
San Antonio

Kelly Custom Homes

San Antonio

Kessler Painting Contracting

8402 Copper Bluff

Kolorkist Cleaning & Restoration

1229 Safari St
San Antonio


2539 Rim Oak
San Antonio

L & J Remodeling

PO BOX 10927
San Antonio

Mobile Floor Store

Po Box 761793
San Antonio

Mold Inspection & Testing San Antonio TX

118 Broadway Street
San Antonio

Mold Inspection Sciences of San Antonio

219 Haskin Dr.
San Antonio


2501 Mayes Road

NorthStar Custom Builder

4902 Kenton Lake
San Antonio

Perilous Times Restoration

11495 Toepperwein Rd
Live Oak

Picture Perfect Remodelers

2810 Warbler Pass
San Antonio


San Antonio

RG Environmental Services

PO Box 6628
San Antonio

River City Environmental LLC.

2018 Lennon Ave
San Antonio

SAT Restoration

121 Interpark Blvd
San Antonio

SERVPRO of Alamo Ranch

11509 Potranco Rd
San Antonio

Servpro of Braun Station

7715 Mainland Road
San Antonio


13707 Topper Circle
San Antonio

SERVPRO of Northwest San Antonio

11591 Galm Rd
San Antonio

Servpro of Stone Oak

18847 Redland Rd Suite 103
San Antonio

Smith Painting Solutions

717 4th St

STC Environmental Services, Inc.

4754 Research Drive
San Antonio

Steamatic of San Antonio

1318 West Blanco Rd.
San Antonio

Texas Home and Lawn

8239 Creekline
San Antonio

The Surface Solution

11615 Fm 725

Toned Homes

8034 Culebra Rd
San Antonio

Trilogy Restoration

PO Box 151331


10914 Wye St
San Antonio

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive

Vollmer Air Duct Cleaning

14414 Watermill
San Antonio

Water Damage San Antonio Pro

5702 Rittiman Plaza
San Antonio

Will Fix It San Antonio

1920 Grandstand
San Antonio

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