Salt Lake City Landscaping Mulch

in Salt Lake City, UT

71
Landscaping Mulch are
in Salt Lake City

12
Landscaping Mulch in Salt Lake City
are top rated

B
Rated by
Raji S.
"They arrived promptly and on-time. We were not around when they conducted most of the work, so we could not supervise the work. After they had left we noticed several problems - Multiple" sprinklers were covered with mulch and weed fabric One sprinkler head was damaged and was not replaced Uneven spreading of mulch. Certain areas had less than 1/2 inch of mulch. We ended having to spend an entire afternoon digging out sprinklers from under the fabric. For having spent over $1000.00 we expected some more attention to detail.
A
Rated by
Richard H.
"We had a few repairs around the home that needed completing and our time was taken by other matters.
was great to work with. He went the extra mile to locate" the type and color of mulch we wanted. We needed railing installed on our outside steps and he was was able to locate a good solid railing at reasonable price and installed them in no time. while the railing only came in black he went the extra step to sand and paint them the white color we wanted. He replaced a broken outside faucet without charging us for his time (we already had the parts). He was very professional and responsive to our time and needs. His prices were very reasonable and his priority was making sure he did a quality job we would be pleased with. I would hire
again in a heartbeat.

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Angie's Answers

?
I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.


?

One of the more difficult issues facing you will be making sure you compare apples 'n apples while understanding the differences between apples 'n oranges.

Some things common to all:

How far from your (water) meter pit to the home?

Do you know what sort of water pressure you have?

Those two questions sortta drive the rest.  How many sprinklers you have is a piece of the puzzle but it is lower on the issues list than how much water pressure and gallons per minute of flow (gpm) you have.  Knowing the water pressure and gpm coming to the house is important because it is the info divided by the flow rate of the heads to tell you how many you can run at a time.

 That, plus the number of heads it takes to cover your yard will let them decide on how many zones to cut the yard into (each zone is X number of heads that run at the same time).

Will the different estimates be for systems that are all parts from a single manufaturer or will it be a collection of brands?  Some will tell you that the parts (controller, back-flow, heads and even specific heads) are better from different manufacturers while others will tell you that all from a single manufacturer will give you an optimized system.

And, are the contractors equally certified?  Not only education and experience but certifications from the various manufacturers who's parts they want to use.  And, will their installations be the same?  Will they open trenches all around your yard and be a week getting the stuff layed, connected and back-filled?  Or, will they pull the flexible pipe and be in 'n out in one day with water flowing to cover their intrussion before they leave that day?

Will your system need to be blown out with pressurized air at the end of the season to avoid winter freeze and bursts or will it drain automagically?

I know, I took your simple question and made it hard.

When I bought my system about 9 years ago, I had a variety of estimates and the differences sortta fell into the mess I listed above.  The low estimate was a person who seemed to be from the "get it in the ground and fix it later" school.

The highest estimate was from someone who seemed more concerned about my yard and the final result than I was.  The low person was using parts 'n pieces from a variety of manufacturers.  The high person was certified by the company that made all the parts he was wanting to use and he carried a fairly high rating from them for his past performance..  He would vary for me if I wanted but he had sound reasons from the controller to each of the heads as to why he preferred his "brand".

It doesn't look like you are a member of Angie's List.  Given the size of the investment you are looking at, this might be a great time to join and see how others in your community have rated the contractors you are considering or if there is one you should add to your list. 

My yard is between 12 and 15,000 square feet less the house, deck, two mini-barns and it is interrupted with a number of blocking (blocks the stream of water) evergreens and planting beds.

The low estimate I had was about $2,500 and would take three days to put in from the time they began to trench.  I don't recall how many heads he wanted to put in but if it was off, he'd be able to put another anyplace and tie it to the nearest zone to give me good coverage.  Uh, this was the get it in the ground 'n adjust later person.

The high estimate I had was around $4,500.  This proposal was for seven active zones each having 5 to 7 heads.  There was enough capacity (extra zone controllers and space within the system controller) built in to add drip irrigation at a later date for the planting beds without having to replace anything.  He drew the entire yard and gave me a copy with the heads marked showing the "throw" of each and the overlap he built in to avoid any missed areas.  And, they wanted to arrive in the morning and leave that evening with the system watering to cover their tracks throughout the yard.  One day and they would not leave until it was working as advertised!

I took the high estimate.  I have a neighbor who bought from the other folks.  Both of us are happy.  He is really happy because each time he calls his company for adjustments or corrections (yep, they got it in the ground and are still putzing with it) they are out within the week, they are really easy to do business with and their service calls' costs haven't gone up a whole bunch.

Sorry, you can't look at the price and divide by X number of heads and have a fair comparison.

?

1) IF you are talking the root crown - the portion where it is not one solid truck or "bole", but still a solid or near-solid mass of roots coming off the base of the trunk, then that has to come out on way or another. Typically, once you get beyond about a 3 foot circle then you are in the radial portion of the roots where they spread out laterally, and are a foot or more apart, and new roots can grow in that area fro the new tree OK. Of course, be prepared to have to trim some volunteers so the old tree can't come back, and be sure to fertilize the new tree per recommendations because the old roots will still be trying to extract water and food from the soil to support the tree that they do not yet realize is gone. Do NOT put stump killer or poison in the old tree - will kill new one too.

2) The proper commercial way to do this is to have the entire root crown and larger roots removed with a stump grinder - looks like this -

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/build-yourself/117273d1230307978-stump-grinder-questions-stumpgrinderred.jpg

You need a tree service that can grind down at least two feet below ground level and remove the root crown and larger root segments. If you hve large roots running laterally quite a ways, he can grind them up too - ditto to "trippers" sticking up above ground. Just be sure to have it clear (spray painted) upfront how far he is going for what he quoted - typically about $150 for tree up to 1-2 feet in diameter, up to $500 for a massive sycamore or walnut or cottonwood or redwood with 6 foot diameter crown. While you can rent stump grinders at tooll rental places, I REALLY do not recommend it - the rental ones you can afford to rent for one use are pretty light duty, and they can chew a person up in no time flat if you lose control when it snags in the wood or hits a rock.

3) Another way is to go out to where the massive roots taper off to something you can reasonable cut - say 4-6 inches in diameter, and cut them all in a circle around the stump, then with a come-along or CAREFULLY (not more than a few hundred pounds) with a vehicle with a trailer hitch, put a steady pull on a good rope or strap or chain in a shallow notch cut around the top of the stump (so it does not pop off easy), then while it is being rotated up out of the ground walk around and cut any root you see still attached or trying to lift out of the ground. This works much better if the stump is left about 4-6 feet high so you get some real leverage on it with the pull, but if already cut down short run chain or strap over the top of it and around a large root on the far side of the stump. I use a Sawzall with foot long coarse tooth wood cutting blade for this - goes through roots really fast, and blade is only $1 or so apiece so ruining one or two hitting rocks is no big thing, and also reaches in under the stump better and safer than an axe. I helped a neighbor take out a back yard full of birches this way - took us about half a day to remove about 15 trees with about 6 foot diameter circle of crown and roots, leaving holes about 1-2 feet deep where each tree was. Remember this - whichever way you use to take it out, you will need maybe 1-5 wheelbarrow loads of good growth medium to replace the divot. 

4) Cheaper route - cut off flush with ground level (or leave some stickup as a planter or stool or feeder base or whatever), and plant new tree at least 4 feet away from old crown, in a spot between the old roots.

?
'Reasonable' is one of those words that means wildly divergent things to different people.  Check with your local high school to see if they have  any sort of agricultural program.  If yes, perhaps someone in that program could help you.  Being a landscaper myself, I must say it sounds like you want something that is - first and foremost - cheap.   This is NOT the best way to look for any service.  You would be better served looking for 'competant' than with 'cheap'.  The nicer you want your flowerbed to look, the more important it is to find someone who REALLY knows what they are doing.

All Landscaping Mulch in Salt Lake City, UT

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A Affordable Professional Yard Care LLC.

3928 S 1040 E
Salt Lake City

Affordable All Purpose Handyman Services

803 Mount Tuscarora Dr.
Salt Lake City

All Seasons Climate

Salt Lake City

Atlas Trees

4874 S Commerce Dr
Salt Lake City

Automated Rain

1368 E 1820 S
Spanish Fork

Blue Fox Lawns

1763 Fruitland DR
Ogden

BRADY BROTHERS CONTAINERS

472 W 3440 S
Salt Lake City

Bratt Inc

754 W 700 S
Pleasant Grove

Casassa Lawn and Landscaping L.L.C.

425 Thornwood Dr.
American Fork

Celestial Landscapes

10363 s Gemmell Club Dr
Bingham Canyon

Complete Landscapes

P.O. BOX 1803
Bountiful

Diamond Tree Experts

3645 S 500 W
Salt Lake City

DP General Contractor

2633 Van Buren Ave
Ogden

DUVALL LANDSCAPE & MAINTENANCE

P O Box 905
Salt Lake City

Earthology Landscaping

3690 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

Eschenfelder Landscaping Inc

PO Box 17657
Salt Lake City

Evergreene Landscape

PO Box 540066
North Salt Lake

Great Western Timber Co.

187 N 200 E
Kamas

Green Water

1459 Misty Fen Way
West Jordan

GreenerSLC

PO BOX 521873
Salt Lake City

GreenSide Landscaping

102 91 South 1300 East
Sandy

Haul-4-U

Cottonwood Heights

HIGHER GROUND LANDSCAPING

2014 Princeton Ave
Salt Lake City

Ivester's Tree & Lawn

207 S 100 WEST
Tooele

J & C Testing and Service Inc

1116 W 500 S
Woods Cross

J&B YARD CARE

552 E. Ridge Place Dr
Ogden

Jbm hauling & services

1010 s 400 e 34

K&J Cleaning and Landscaping Service

101 Starcrest Drive
Orem

LANDSCAPE SOLUTIONS INC

PO Box 95865
South Jordan

Landscape Supply of Utah

611 W 12300 S
Draper

Landscaping Plus

565 Adams Ave
Ogden

Lawn Thumbs

850 east
Orem

Lawns of Utah

10046 Poplar Ct
Pleasant Grove

Master's Handyman

227 S 1065 W
Orem

Mengs Landscaping

3966 W Spencer Crest
West Jordan

Millcreek Sprinkler

3731 W South Jordan Pkwy
South Jordan

Painters Edge

511 Jake Garn Blvd
Salt Lake City

Precise Yard

7824 Center St
Tooele

Rockwell Pointe, Inc.

15063 South 3200 West
Bluffdale

Rose Concrete Additive Co

PO Box 1085
Pleasant Grove

Scenic View Landscape LLC

po box 708068
Sandy

Scotts Lawnservice

5201 S Commerce Dr
Salt Lake City

Scotts Lawnservice

120 E 26th St
Ogden

Seasons Four Landscape and Maintenance

125 W. 500 N.
North Salt Lake

SIERRASCAPE LANDSCAPING INC

4084 Samak Hills Rd
Kamas

SONIC SOLUTIONS LLC

5850 W State HWY
Bingham Canyon

Stanworth And Associates LLC

PO Box 970400
Provo

Take It Easy Lawn and Landscape

5702 South 150 West
Murray

TC Express

20 Park Ave
Tooele

Thomas Benstog Construction

P.O. Box 296
Morgan

Total Landscape Management

8385 S Allen St.
Salt Lake City

Utah Landscape & Design

1135 W 200 N
Provo

Wells Cutting Edge

Erda UT
Tooele

Yard Pro Of Utah

6227 S Barton Park Dr
West Jordan

Yardmasters

14806 S 2700 W
Riverton

Yardmasters

14806 S 2700 W
Riverton

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