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"I called and was given a cell phone number to call for scheduling. No one called back. I called the office three times and got the same answer - I can't schedule," you have to leave a message on the cell phone. She didn't seem concerned at all. Apparently they don't need any more business. I don't know why Questar has them on their list.

-Bonnie B.

"Even if you do not follow through and purchase their caulking, insulation, and other services, 's $50 audit is an excellent deal, because" it gives a detailed summary of sources of air leaks. We had previously installed new roof, windows, and doors, but 's whole-house fan-in-door with air flow measurement found lots of remaining air leaks around fireplace, flue pipe, baseboards, etc. Wyck, the owner, was very thorough in scheduling the insulation subcontractor and in cleaning up after they left. He re-ran the air flow test after the work was completed to verify the reduction in undesired air flow.

-Bruce H.

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Local Articles in Salt Lake City

Icicles hanging from roof

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

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Home exhaust fans don't just remove stale odors. They also help improve indoor air quality.

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Improper attic ventilation can cause your energy bills to rise and severely damage your roof.

insulation in attic

When cooler weather arrives, many homeowners hire an insulation contractor to perform an attic inspection.

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Angie's Answers


If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.


There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".


Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  


Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.


As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Salt Lake City


did a great job in the attic insulation assessment and installation they provided. at was responsive, informative and straighforward. He provided all the details I needed, including clear pricing information and options. He followed through on each step we discussed, provided the ...More planned installation on time, on schedule and at the price discussed, and made each step clear and easy. Overall, I would highly recommend .
- Colin Q.

It went ok. In places that are not see, like inside cupboards, the quality of the sealing job is than where it it visible. They offered to fix it but I refused. I found that they do what they do well but if they can't sell you a fix they don't identify the problem.
- Mary F D.

I had conduct a full energy audit initially based on an Angie's List promotion & their strong overall rating / feedback. & his team were very accommodating to my limited schedule and came out in less than 2 days to perform the audit. They were very thorough & the kind of subject matter ...More experts you hope to find in this business. After we reviewed the audit, I began asking questions about fixes, priorities, etc, assuming I'd have to go to another company for the actual fixes. Not the case with -- they do just about everything and sub out for experts in the . I ended up having the garage ceiling insulated (yes, there was ZERO insulation originally -- old house in the avenues), 3 external doors properly sealed & an unfinished part of the basement also foamed. did the finishing work as well (drywall + painting).
Overall, I was extremely pleased with their professionalism, expertise, & the quality of the end deliverable. I would absolutely recommend for any home energy analysis / needs (start with an audit!!). I look forward to using their services again in the future.
- John P.

came over same day when I called for a quote. He gave full details on what it would cost to go to R-38 in the attic. He scheduled the work for the next day. He and his crew showed up on time, worked quickly and explained all the charges. Filled out all the Questar rebate forms so I could just drop them in the mail.
I've ...More very glad I found them on Angie's List!
- John L.

Fornelius was a treat to work with. Friendly, competent and efficient. He and his worker did a great job and left no mess. He helped us fill out the Questar rebate form, too. Tthe price above is the before-rebate cost)
- Kate L.

After getting two other bids, I called because of his Angie's list reviews. His bid was right in the middle but his complete overview of what was possible made it easy to accept this bid. He is taking responsibility for filing for my Crestar rebate which is a nice extra.
He had to cancel one appointment because ...More of a family emergency but worked on the Saturday of Memorial Day Weekend to make up for the delay.
It is a very messy job but I was forewarned and he certainly tried to minimize the mess.
My primary goal was noise control as I live in a condo and he did not over promise. It is too bad that the original contractor did not invest in what is easy to do during construction (check out u-tube for the best option) and way too expensive to do now.
How to Minimize clean up - remember you will have to wipe down EVERY exposed surface, starting with the walls and doors
1) take all of your art work off the wall and shelves - put in storage closet
2) remove all rugs that can be moved
3) use plastic drop clothes and blue tape to cover EVERYTHING, like closet doors, furniture, beds, kitchen cupboards, lamps, window treatments, things that will not come off the wall easily
4) plug the bottom of doors going to rooms you will not use - like storage closets
5) be sure the plastic covers go all the way to the floor and are taped generously at the top and sides - if there is a gap the fine dust and/or excess cellulose will find it!
6) schedule this BEFORE you do your spring cleaning and be prepared to clean carpets after this is done
7) I found that my Swiffer sweeper cloths were great for walls and all other surfaces. Invested in the Swiffer duster to get at the tops of furniture, ceiling light fixtures and book shelves.

- Deanne W.

Extremely punctual, both for estimate and for work. Took less than the estimated 2-hour time frame given. Very hard working and professional. Meticulous clean-up. He explained all about the rebates and tax credits, and then filled out the paperwork for each. The $900 comes down to about $360 after those. The entire experience was very smooth. I definitely ...More give them an A+ and two enthusiastic thumbs up!
- Marianne T.

Superbly. , the owner of the company, and his co-worker did a superb job from beginning to end. He was efficient and clear in his bid, appeared to do the work on time, finished the job on time, and did a fine cleanup. This is the best experience I have had with contractors--no delays, no need to call them , no issues of any ...More kind. great team to work with. I recommend and his team without any reservations whatsoever.
- irwin A.

Insulation Contractors in Salt Lake City

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

3rd Generation

3366 HUrstbourne dr
West Jordan

4 Seasons Energy Solutions

75 East Fort Union Blvd, Site C-124


196 S. 400 E.

AAA Restoration Emergency

249 West 4860 S

Aardvacc Air Duct Cleaning Specialists

1279 S Emery St
Salt Lake City

Accent Drywall & Acoustics, Inc.

9423 South 3400 West
South Jordan

Affordable All Purpose Handyman Services

803 Mount Tuscarora Dr.
Salt Lake City

Airlock LLC

4773 W 7735 S
West Jordan

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Applied Energy Solutions

1422 South 800 W Suite C
Woods Cross

APS Construction LLC

1358 Pinewood Dr.
Salt Lake City

Aspen Roofing

472 W 3440 S
Salt Lake City

Barlow Service Experts

2869 Commerce Way

Basement Concepts

583 Sunset Stream Way

BDI Insulation of Salt Lake LLC

2507 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

Best Property Improvements

2111 E Cresthill Dr
Salt Lake City


6537 S 630 W
Salt Lake City

Big City Insulation

1195 N Spring Creek Pl Suite A

Broderick Construction Inc

990 N. 1100 West
Woods Cross

Capitol Rain Gutters & Exteriors

4087 Nike Dr
West Jordan

Carlos Cabarcas - State Farm Insurance

4922 West 6200 South
Salt Lake City

Castlemenders LLC

12607 South 1300 East

Chimera Construction LLC

2717 south 1000 east
Salt Lake City

Cover Duck

Pleasant Grove

CR Finishing Touch

350 west 800 north
Salt Lake City

Cruz Auto

89 N Garden Street

D-Zign Plus Builders LLC

2127 Pinnacle Terrace Way
Cottonwood Heights


North Salt Lake

EMS Construction/ Gene Stosich

1423 East 950 South

ESCO Services Inc

2525 S 300 W
Salt Lake City


5975 S. Stratler St.
Salt Lake City

Greenify Energy Savers

8535 S 700 W

Handybros Construction LLC

3278 w. Danube dr.
Salt Lake City

Hansen All Season Insulation

1575 W 2550 S

Holladay Handyman

2064 E 4675 S
Salt Lake City

HomeStar Windows and Doors

8724 S 700 E


West Valley City

Insulation Contractors Supply

813 W 1700 S
Salt Lake City

Insulation From Hale

914 w. 500 n.
Salt Lake City

Insulation Professionals

3490 S. 4400 W. 702086
Salt Lake City


Salt Lake City

Kevin Hill & Son Handyman

667 W 7250 S

Marks Handyman of Utah

8543 s redwood rd

Master's Handyman

227 S 1065 W

Mayan Drywall and Construction

2668 W 1700 N


829 SOUTH 700 EAST

McQuiston Enterprises, Inc.

536 W. 2900 South

MD construction

3130 south 4180 west


Salt Lake City


6000s 1300e
Salt Lake City

MJ Seven Restoration, LLC

P.O. Box 576

Monument Development Inc.

602 E 5640 S
Salt Lake City

Mountainwest Service Experts

71 Cutler Dr.
North Salt Lake

Nebo Comfort Systems

985 W Goosenest Dr.

Painters Edge

511 Jake Garn Blvd
Salt Lake City

Paul Davis Restoration

7065 Commerce Park Dr


4222 S 500 W
Salt Lake City

Platinum Insulation

5526 West 13400 South # 540

Platinum Property Preservations

1400 East 3000 South
Salt Lake City

Powell's Pro Building and Remodeling

7564 S Michelle Way

Premier Building Supply

1060 South 500 East
American Fork

Property Guardian

7666 North Mountain Ash Way
Eagle Mountain


Salt Lake City

R-Factor LLC

985 West 3160 S.
Salt Lake City

Revive Remodeling

PO Box 520465
Salt Lake City

Ron Case Roofing & Asphalt Paving

440 S Redwood Rd
Salt Lake City


4617 Cherry St
Salt Lake City


P O BOX 683324
Park City

Shaw Roofing and General Contracting Inc

909 S Jefferson St
Salt Lake City

Shawn Meyer

440 East 8680 South

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Specialized Garage Doors

11547 N Skyline Dr

State Farm Insurance Kim Jasperson

310 S. Freedom Blvd

Tabor Insulation

895 W 2600 S
Salt Lake City

TC Express

20 Park Ave

Terminix - Salt Lake City

3568 A W 900 S
Salt Lake City

The Property Medics

15210 S 1800 W

Thermal Imaging Utah

615 S Canyon Drive

Thomas Brothers Drywall LLC

1618 East 970 South

tru construction

4609 Palmer Dr
Salt Lake City

Uday Law

515 S 700 E
Salt Lake City


2200 W 2300 S
Salt Lake City

USI All Purpose Windows & Doors

2708 S State St
Salt Lake City

USI Cardalls Insulation

190 N 640 W
North Salt Lake City

USI Salt Lake City

895 W 2600 S
Salt Lake City


4222 S 500 W
Salt Lake City

Wallentine Siding & Exteriors

779 North 1890 West #9


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Wesley Green Roofing

239 Paramount Ave
Salt Lake City

Wisdom In Numbers

193 E Fort Union Blvd

Yellow Van Handyman

PO Box 1314
Salt Lake City

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