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A
"Mr.
did an excellent job. He listened to my information and concerns and then performed an excellent, thorough evaluation. He took time to" completely evaluate our home's foundation and was more than willing to answer any questions while he worked. He was not just interested in "getting in and out quickly". He took his time and did an outstanding job that gave me the information I needed in ordered to begin the bidding process for the needed repairs.
Seig carries my highest recommendation.

-Harold S.

A
"I initially saw some cracks in the wallboard of my laundry room. This is an exterior wall on my home so I went outside and sure enough I saw cracks in the mortar" and bricks that matched the cracks on the inside of the house. I contacted 3 companies to inspect my foundation and make suggestions for needed repairs. Their estimates and methods ranged from $10000 to over $30000 and each suggested a different solution. I decided to hire
& Associates to get a recommendation from an independent party.
arrived right on time and got to work examining inside the house, outside the house and inside the crawl space. He was here roughly an hour and gave me some information while he was here and indicated that I would receive a full written report within 24 hours. I received his detail report this morning and am extremely pleased with the completeness of it. He suggested that the ROOT CAUSE of my problem was excessive water around the foundation which allowed the soil that the foundation rests on to move and this movement caused the cracks I had seen. His suggestion for a first step was to install proper drainage and see if that by itself is sufficient to address the issue. His report did cover some of the steps that the original 3 people suggested as possible next steps but stated that the issues with the foundation are currently not severe or life-threatening and I can wait to see if the significantly cheaper drain tile installation is sufficient. I highly recommend that anyone receiving expensive quotes for foundation repairs contact
& Associates for an independant analysis.

-Lawrence C.

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Local Articles in Sacramento

Have a foundation crack? Consult a structural engineer

Are you worried about a crack in your home's foundation. A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

Structural Engineers

Your home's ability to withstand the forces of nature and gravity depend on good structural engineering. Building room additions, correcting foundations and repairing structural damage are all projects that call for a structural engineer's expertise.

Interior remodeling project, in progress.
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Dear Angie: How much should it cost to remove a wall? We want to take out about 9.5 feet of a wall that runs from an exterior wall of the house to an interior wall. – Jenny H., Tampa, Florida

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earthquake retrofit
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Earthquakes can strike out of nowhere and cause major damage to your home. Consider these tips to protect your home from earthquake damage.

bowed interior block foundation wall
Structural Engineering

Does your home have horizontal cracks in its concrete block foundation? Check out these common causes and repairs for horizontal foundation cracks from a highly rated structural engineer.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

There is NO such thing as an average cost !

 

You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .

 

 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .

 

The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.

 

 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !

?

Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.

 


 
 
Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
 
 
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
 
 
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
?
Here is a link to a recent diagnosis exercise I just went through on another similar question - might be of some interest to you, though that case is likely duct related whereas your I think may be outside - http://answers.angieslist.com/What-causing-loud-banging-clicking-noise-q141018.aspx In your case however, and especially with the only on very cold night issue and especially more early in winter, my first, second and probably third guess would be the deck. Baseboard heating pipes commonly creak, pop, and sometimes squeek as they expand and contract, but unless the pipes are jamming up where they come out of the floor so they make the baseboard radiator "pop", they usually do not "bang" like steam pipes do. And would sound like someone accidentally kicking the baseboard like a minor clang or thump - and typically quite metallic sounding in that case. The jut out on the house could make the noiseif it is heating and cooling signifiantly, but with constant heat in the house I would doubt it - that noise can occur on occasion due to siding being installed without adequate expansion gaps at the ends of boards or edges of panels. Usually if that is the problem, though, you will get bulging or end-cracking or splitting of the siding oer time. Plus of course the expansion and noise occurs in HOT conditions (usually direct sunlight on hot days), not in the cold of winter. Deck, especially in early winter as they initially freeze and the moisture content in the boards is typically high, tend to thump quite hard as they freeze - commonly sounds about like someone jumping up high and landing hard on the deck in boots, or maybe like someone hitting the far end of the house with a sledgehammer. Not uncommon to actually feel the thump while in your bed. What is happening can be one of several things: 1) most commonly, moisture in the boards is freezing causing expansion - till eventually the board(s) pop a nail, or break free of the frost holding them to the support boards. They freeze at the joists first because that is where the free water is and is accessible to the air all around so it freezes hard first, then as hard freezing conditions persist through the night the water in the boards themselves expands, causing the board to eventually break the ice bond - or in extreme cases to push hard enough against the end of the next board to break it free. This commonly happens from a couple to around 4-6 hours after evening hard freeze sets in, so commonly about midnightish as opposed to early evening or early AM, in normal daily temperature fluctuation conditions. This can easily happen to several boards in one night, and if thawing in the daytime, or especially if getting rained on or getting snow meltwater again, can become more frequent for awhile then taper off a few days to a week or so later. 2) decks are basically built as a single unit without specific expansion provision, but are semi-rigidly fastened in place by the piers and commonly rigidly fastened along the house edge - so any expansion or contraction creates stresses in the deck which eventually can get strong enough to cause popping and creaking and thumping noises. Because it is rigidly constructed, the stresses (from moisture or freezing or on large decks even just daily thermal changes) can accumulate fairly well before something releases, so the thump or bang can be quite loud. 3) if your support posts (on decks with outer edge support piers/posts and fastened to the house with a ledger board) are frost heaving, then they lift the deck upwards at the outer edge, which can cause sounds from nails prying out of the house as the ledger board tilts up - or in extreme cases ripping out of lag bolts or joist hangers. Check to be sure your ledger board is not tilting away form the house at the bottom, and that the deck is not tilting up significantly at the outer edge. 4) sometimes the freezing water in the deck boards can cause splitting of the board, which makes a tearing or ripping sound usually, rather than a thump. 5) occasionally, frost heave in the ground under the stairs can lift the stairs, causing tearing or ripping where it is fastened to the deck. While disturbing, this sort of noise (in moderation) does not normally "damage" a deck, though of course it does cause a general loosening up of fasteners over time, and sometimes snaps deck nails or screws (screws more often because they are generally higher stress steel, so can't yield as much before snapping). Of course, significant frost heaving does need to be taken care of - by solving the cause (footings bearing on/in frost heave susceptible soil) or by releveling the deck periodically if a slow, gradual year-by-year heaving of the foundations. Measures to take - just visually inspect the deck and alll support posts and connections periodically (every year or two) for broken or loose ones, but generally unless deck board fasteners break, you will not see anything except maybe a few nail heads sticking up. And check it with a level to be sure the outer edge is not lifting up due to frost heaving of the piers, and adjust back level (hopefully you have adjustable piers/posts).
?
?
The key is to have drainage away from the house, and not introduce water to the foundation unnecessarily. If you can slope the existing backfill soil from the foundation away from the house at least 1/2 inch to 1 inch in the 2 foot space to the walk and pack it down, then putting a ground cover on it will not hurt - it is the relatively impervious layer sloping away from the house you want. If you use rocks I would underlay them with some 6 mil or thicker black plastic sheeting (available in small rolls at home supply stores and lumber yards). If planting, the same would be nice if the plants you choose spread laterally like Epimedium, so they will grow in just a fewe inches of topsoil over the plastic. Otherwise, tamp down the dirt to make it a hard, draining surface (at least when it rains heavily) before topsoiling and planting. Keep a slope on the topsoil too, and avoid overwatering. Do not plant anythig with highly invasive, tenacious or deep burrowing roots like bushes, ivy, or trees near the house, as the roots will penetrate the waterproof barrier on the outside of the foundation, and then you might start getting leaks. The roots can even penetrate the concrete block joints and start breaking up the foundation. For this reason, annual flowers, shallow-root ground covers, bulb plants and rock gardens are far better within 3 feet or so of the foundation than larger plants or intensive gardening.

Structural Engineering reviews in Sacramento

A

Rating
I was considering starting a major renovation of my house and wanted to make sure that there were no foundation problems before proceeding. Mr.
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
(a licensed engineer) was thorough, knowledgable, prompt, and very methodical. He provided me with documentation, including a site plan, after returning to his office to prepare his final report. I was very impressed and pleased with his professionalism.
- Stephen W.
A

Rating
I called Bill after finding him on Angie's List. It just so happens that he came highly recommended from a home inspector that I use as well. (I'm a real estate broker)
During the initial home inspection, the inspector noted that there seemed to be some moisture in the walls of the basement, although no moisture was present in the basement itself. Having never lived in a home with a basement, my clients were concerned that the water had affected the structural integrity of the home and wanted to have it inspected further before moving forward with their purchase.
I called Bill and left him a message. He called back right away and was able to schedule an appointment for that weekend. He arrived at the appointment on time and we went straight down to the basement to check things out. During this inspection he was able to calm my clients fears, informing them that there was in fact water present in the foundation but at this time no structural damage had occurred. He did say that if nothing was done to correct the cause, over time it may become an issue.
He offered a number of solutions to rectify the cause of the water after they purchased the house, many of which would not be costly to my clients.
Bill was very nice and informative. The inspection was a little costly, at $400 or so for about a half an hour of time, and if my clients wanted a written report, the cost would have been $650. That being said, money is not a factor when it comes to peace of mind and Bill is really good at what he does.
- ASHLEY D.
A

Rating
FANTASTIC!
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was able to provide a solution to our structural problem, while being responsive and professional. Due to the nature of the real estate transaction, we had to work with urgency.
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
not only made room on his calendar for us, but he delivered our report 2 days before he promised delivery. I would absolutely recommend him to anyone.
- Stacy M.
A

Rating
Mr.
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was punctual, considerate, professional and thorough in his inspection of the property. He provided in a timely fashion a written in depth report of his findings along with recommendations for resolving the issues that were found. I could not have been more pleased.
- Diana S.
A

Rating
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
from
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
evaluated several structural issues that came to light during a home inspection on a home we had made an offer. He is very personable and explained his findings in easy
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
's terms. I had been concerned that an engineer might come up with esoteric solutions but it was just the opposite with
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
, he is very practical in his approach to the issues and solutions for the concerns we had especially some foundation issues. The irony was that our Realtor who had to be present since the sellers were not home had previously discouraged us from getting an engineer as he said in his experience engineers made
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
things complicated later told us from the conversations he heard me having with
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
and what I told him about the inspection "that guy was really good he was laid back and was giving you real life, practical advice."
- donna L.
A

Rating
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was prompt, attentive, professional and willing to explain in detail the issues we were facing. His report was thorough. We are happy with his service and will use his services in the future.
- Diana M.
A

Rating
The engineer was extremely knowledgeable. Told me facts about the house that were truly exciting. For example it was built about 70-80 years earlier than listed on the
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
. He told a story about the brick wall. Every little detail was accounted. The best!
- MATTHEW B.
A

Rating
Luyi from
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
& Associates is a professional engineer who knows the code and knows the calculations--and best of all, he's not one of those sales people that other companies send out. He had no fancy equipment, just a level, measuring tape and vast knowledge of structures. He was so nice and explained what he was looking for and what he did and didn't find. And best of all, he determined that my house doesn't need repair work, but I would have trusted him if it did. I will recommend
Sacramento Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
& Associates to anyone needing a structural inspection or design work.
- Ryan J.

All Structural Engineers in Sacramento

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A K & CO

3531 KERSEY LN
Sacramento

A P ENGINEERING CONSULTANTS

8741 GERBER RD
Sacramento

ACOUSTICS & VIBRATION GROUP

5765 9th Ave
Sacramento

ADVANCED PHOTONICS SOLUTIONS

900 Reichert Ave Unit 320
Novato

AEROMETALS

3920 SANDSTONE DR
El Dorado Hills

ALEPH AMERICA CORP

4790 GOLDEN FOOTHILL PKWY130
El Dorado Hills

ALLEN ENGINEERING

11250 PEORIA RD
Browns Valley

ALPINE ENGINEERING

980 STONEBRIDGE ST
El Dorado Hills

AM Pacific Engineering Inc.

5000 windplay drive
El Dorado Hills

American Geotechnical, Inc.

3100 Fite Circle, Suite 103
Sacramento

AMERICAN RIVER FLOOD CONTROL

165 COMMERCE CIR
Sacramento

ANDERSON & ASSOC INC

902 INDUSTRIAL WAY
Lodi

ANDERSON & DOIG STRUCTURAL

10308 PLACER LN
Sacramento

ARTHUR ENGINEERING INC

1751 PENTLAND CT
Folsom

ATM ENGINEERING

2525 E Bidwell St Ste 100
Folsom

Austin Chase Inspector

3319-A julliard Dr.
Sacramento

B & C TRANSIT CONSULTANTS

6060 SUNRISE VISTA DR
Citrus Heights

B Line Construction Inc

430 Lea Way
Sacramento

BAKER GUPTIL STRUCTURAL DSGNS

2941 SUNRISE BLVD
Rancho Cordova

BANKS INTEGRATION GROUP

600 E Main St Ste 100
Vacaville

BANZIGER-BANKS INC

555 MASON ST
Vacaville

BARRISH PELHAM & ASSOC INC

3001 E ST
Sacramento

BEEBE CORP

PO Box 276148
Sacramento

BEVIER ENGINEERING

2479 SUNRISE BLVD
Rancho Cordova

BEYAZ & PATEL CONSULTING

3550 WATT AVE
Sacramento

BHH ENGINEERING INC

4307 KENTWOOD LN
Fair Oaks

BLACKBURN CONSULTING

2491 Boatman Dr
West Sacramento

BNV ENGINEERING-CONSULTING

1741 MONTARA AVE
Sacramento

BODEGA ENGINEERING

4993 GOLDEN FOOTHILL PKWY 7
El Dorado Hills

BOLLARD ACOUSTICAL CONSULTANTS

1293 LINCOLN WAY
Auburn

BORM ASSOC INC

3741 DOUGLAS BLVD
Roseville

Bowerbird Remodeling

2418 overhill
Davis

BRAIN HARMONIZER

PO Box 528
Loomis

BROWN & MILLS INC

9940 BUSINESS PARK DR
Sacramento

BROWN-BUNTIN ASSOC

7996 CALIFORNIA AVE
Fair Oaks

BTS ENGINEERING

331 J ST
Sacramento

BULBMO LIGHTING

244 2ND ST
Galt

BUTTES PIPE & SUPPLY

6100 WAREHOUSE WAY
Sacramento

C & D MECHANICAL

4347 PENWITH WAY
North Highlands

C J STAGING REDESIGN

8725 TIPTON CT
Elk Grove

C S ENGINEERING

9687 Glacier Creek Way
Elk Grove

CAROLLO ENGINEERS

2880 Gateway Oaks Dr Ste 300
Sacramento

CARTER'S CARPET RESTORATION

6048 A ENTERPRISE DR
Diamond Springs

CASTLE ENGINEERING GROUP

9523 TREMONT CT
Orangevale

CENTER POINT ENGINEERING INC

1217 PLEASANT GROVE BLVD
Roseville

CHANDLER ENGINEERING CONSULTNG

2351 SUNSET BLVD
Rocklin

CHEYNE ENGINEERING

7200 RADIO STATION RD
Dixon

CNA Engineering Inc

2575 Valley Rd
Sacramento

COMNETIX INC

9616 MICRON AVE
Sacramento

CONCRETE STRUCTURAL IMAGING

7800 CUCAMONGA AVE
Sacramento

CONVERSE CONSULTANTS

4840 Mill St Ste 5

CRAWFORD & ASSOC

4401 HAZEL AVE
Fair Oaks

Creative Eye Design + Build

224 Vernon Street
Roseville

CROSBY GROUP

3444 MARCONI AVE
Sacramento

CUSTOM CEILING LIGHTING INC

3911 GARMISCH CT
Antelope

D & Z STRUCTURAL ENGINEERING

4260 MOTHER LODE DR
Shingle Springs

DAVID A CRANE JDC ASSOC

6056 RUTLAND DR
Carmichael

DAVID OKASAKI PE

9085 BADER RD
Elk Grove

David W. Hoppe Construction Inc.

4560 Bailey Way
Sacramento

DAVIDS ENGINEERING INC

1772 PICASSO AVE
Davis

DAVIS ENERGY GROUP INC

123 DAVIS AVE
Sacramento

DAVIS LANGDON ADAMSON

1395 GARDEN HWY 150
Sacramento

DJH ENGINEERING

4541 LUNEMAN RD
Placerville

DKS ASSOC

1950 WEBSTER ST
Sacramento

DON BLESSEN & ASSOC

301 NATOMA ST
Folsom

DOWLING ASSOCIATES

428 J ST
Sacramento

DPI MECHANICAL

PO Box 943
Orangevale

DRIVE ENGINEERING SVC

3517 MARCONI AVE
Sacramento

DYNAMIC DESIGN

123 C ST
Davis

DYNAMIC ENGINEERING

602 HAMILTON DR
Vacaville

DYNATECH ENGINEERING

PO Box 685
Roseville

EARTHTEC LTD

1830 VERNON ST
Roseville

ECLIPSE MECHANICAL ENGINEERING

7950 Folsom Auburn Rd
Folsom

ECM GEOTECHNICAL

160 N 1ST ST
Dixon

ECO LOGIC

1101 INVESTMENT BLVD
El Dorado Hills

EDWIN J NICHOLSON ENGINEERING

655 UNIVERSITY AVE
Sacramento

EDWIN J NICHOLSON STRUCTURAL

9718 FAIR OAKS BLVD
Fair Oaks

EL DORADO BUILDERS EXCHANGE

3430 ROBIN LN
Shingle Springs

ENCON ENERGY CONSERVATION

3845 ATHERTON RD
Rocklin

ENERCAL ENGINEERING INC

1212 COLOMA WAY
Roseville

ENGEO INC

425 MERCHANT ST
Vacaville

ENGEO INC

631 COMMERCE DR
Roseville

ES2 ENGINEERING STRUCTURAL

1540 EUREKA RD
Roseville

EVRAS

3420 COACH LN
Shingle Springs

EWRG

11300 SANDERS DR
Rancho Cordova

EXPERT MICROSYSTEMS INC

7932 COUNTRY TRAIL DR
Orangevale

F & M ENGINEERING CONTRACTORS

3432 DWIGHT RD
Elk Grove

FALCON TECHNOLOGIES INC

3233 LUYUNG DR
Rancho Cordova

FARR ASSOCIATES

6016 PRINCETON REACH WAY
Granite Bay

FARRELL DESIGN BUILD CO

685 PLACERVILLE DR
Placerville

FEHR & PEERS

2990 Lava Ridge Ct Ste 200
Roseville

FOOTHILL ENGINEERING

8442 STORY RIDGE WAY
Antelope

Frazier Construction

7520 Oak Grove Ave
Citrus Heights

GEI CONSULTANTS INC

2868 Prospect Park Dr Ste 400
Rancho Cordova

GENERATE TECHNOLOGY INC

5088 HILLSDALE CIR
El Dorado Hills

GEO TEK AEROSPACE

49 DIGGINS DR
Folsom

GEOCON CONSULTANTS-INC

3160 GOLD VALLEY DR
Rancho Cordova

GEODAQ INC

4441 G ST
Sacramento

GEODAQ INC

2523 J ST
Sacramento

GLENN REDDICK PROFESSIONAL SVC

7800 CHAPLIN CT
Elk Grove

Glorioso Design

417 Crow Canyon Dr
Folsom

GLUMAC

910 GLENN DR
Folsom

Goulas Construction

6931 Gimbel Way
Citrus Heights

GULARTE & ASSOC INC

1049 Nichols Ct
Rocklin

GUTTMANN & BLAEVOET

800 Howe Ave Ste 330
Sacramento

H F SCHWARTZ BUILDERS

3941 PARK DR
El Dorado Hills

HARRIS & SLOAN CONSULTING GRP

2295 Gateway Oaks Dr Ste 165
Sacramento

HARRIS ENGINEERING

6927 TUMBLE LN
Loomis

HASCO ENGINEERING

12277 LOCKSLEY LN
Auburn

HEITZ ENGINEERING

6918 MERRYWOOD CT
Granite Bay

HENWOOD ASSOCIATES

7311 GREENHAVEN DR
Sacramento

HERRERA'S MECHANICAL DESIGN

647 APPLEWOOD DR
Lodi

HIGLEY ENGINEERS INC

5253 SHELATO WAY
Carmichael

HOES ENGINEERING INC

PO BOX 505
Zamora

HOI WONG & ASSOC

2015 Q ST
Sacramento

HOYT CO

660 J ST
Sacramento

HYDROSCIENCE ENGINEERS

10569 OLD PLACERVILLE RD
Sacramento

HYPERSONIC THRUST

7921 CHERRY BROOK DR
Elverta

IEC CORP

8795 FOLSOM BLVD
Sacramento

Ienga of Orange County

1665 E 4Th St
Santa Ana

INNO-DYNAMICS ENGINEERING

5500 MARCONI AVE
Carmichael

INNOVATIVE TECHNICAL SOLUTIONS

1107 9TH ST
Sacramento

INSTRUMENT CONTROL CO

551 AIRPORT RD
Rio Vista

INTEGRATED DESIGN GROUP

PO Box 1401
Elk Grove

INTERFACE ENGINEERING

707 COMMONS DR
Sacramento

IRANI ENGINEERING

2625 FAIR OAKS BLVD
Sacramento

Irons Architecture & Engineering

5160 Turkey Track Road
Placerville

Irons Architecture & Engineering

5160 Turkey Track Road
Placerville

ITALIA ENGINEERING

1985 AMBRIDGE DR
Roseville

J C BRENNAN & ASSOC INC

263 NEVADA ST
Auburn

J E KERSTEN & ASSOC

11265 SUNRISE GOLD CIR
Rancho Cordova

JOHN H KOBZEFF STRUCTUAL ENGR

1906 JACOBS CT
Fairfield

K C ENGINEERING

5716 LAWNVIEW WAY
Elk Grove

K C ENGINEERING CO

865 COTTING LN
Vacaville

K D ANDERSON TRANSPORTATION

3853 TAYLOR RD
Loomis

KEITH YATES DESIGN

359 NEVADA ST
Auburn

Key and Associates Civil Engineers

1646 Poole Blvd
Yuba City

Kingkong Construction

2225 62nd Ave
Sacramento

KLIPPEL & SENING ENGINEERING

3234 Monier Cir Ste D
Rancho Cordova

KPFF CONSULTING ENGINEERS

1508 EUREKA RD
Roseville

KRAZAN & ASSOC

5044 BAILEY LOOP
Mcclellan

L E DANIELS TRNSPRTN ENGR

4222 CURRAGH OAKS LN
Fair Oaks

L P CONSULTING ENGINEERS INC

1663 Eureka Rd
Roseville

LAM-WOOD SYSTEMS INC

2228 MARYWOOD CT
Carmichael

LEISURE SUPPLY

4660 Pell Dr
Sacramento

LENTZ LIBRARIES

1500 W EL CAMINO AVE
Sacramento

MALCOLM PIRNIE INC

90 BLUE RAVINE RD
Folsom

MAPLE BROOK ENGINEERING INC

1219 PLEASANT GROVE BLVD
Roseville

MARK III ENGINEERING CONTRACTR

2665 MERCANTILE DR
Rancho Cordova

MASON WEST

5145 GOLDEN FOOTHILL PKWY 160
El Dorado Hills

MASSY ENGINEERING

909C N GEORGE WASHINGTON BLVD
Yuba City

MATRISCOPE ENGINEERING LABS

3102 INDUSTRIAL BLVD
West Sacramento

MBC Engineering

2909 Fox Den Cir
Lincoln

MC KENNY KRUG INC

8020 Sacramento St
Fair Oaks

MECHANICAL ENGINEERS

3741 BUSINESS DR
Sacramento

MECHTRONIX ENGINEERING

8650 W CAMDEN DR
Elk Grove

MELINE ENGINEERING

9343 Tech Center Dr Ste 135
Sacramento

MESO TECH INTL INC

1808 TRIBUTE RD
Sacramento

METRO ENGINEERING

960 Fulton Ave # 300
Sacramento

MHC ENGINEERING

8675 MARANELLO WAY
Elk Grove

MITCHELL ENGINEERING

1395 Evans Ave
San Francisco

MLA STRUCTURAL ENGINEERS INC

1132 Suncast Ln Ste 6
El Dorado Hills

MOLLER CORP

1222 RESEARCH PARK DR
Davis

MONSANTO

12790 GORMAN LN
Woodland

Monster Contractor

4763 Ravenstone Wy
Sacramento

MSM ENGINEERING

5779 SUMMIT DR
Rocklin

Nationwide Secure inc.

3215 Calhoun Ct
Antioch

NEIL ANDERSON & ASSOC INC

506 GERARD DR
Lodi

NEIL MOORE & ASSOC

4536 FRENCH CREEK RD
Shingle Springs

NELSON & ASSOC MECHANICAL INC

768 UNIVERSITY AVE
Sacramento

New West Homes

PO Box 11
Camino

NICK TECH

11306 SUNCO DR
Rancho Cordova

NORMAN SCHEEL STRUCTURAL ENGR

5022 SUNRISE BLVD
Fair Oaks

O'Connor Freeman & Associates, Inc.

225 30th Street, Suite 201
Sacramento

O'Toole GBC

1224 V street

Oak Creek Construction

PO Box 1633
Shingle Springs

OAK ENGINEERING & DEVELOPMENT

609 OAK ST
Roseville

OAKS WATER TREATMENT PLANT

6018 HILLTOP DR
Ione

OPERATING ENGINEERS PUBLIC

468 CENTURY PARK DR
Yuba City

OTECH ENGINEERING

418 Scripps Dr
Davis

P DOT DREAMS

6417 KILBEGGAN WAY
Elk Grove

PARAGON GEOTECHNICAL

7979 WENTE WAY
Sacramento

PARIKH CONSULTANTS INC

530 BERCUT DR
Sacramento

PARK UTILITIES CO

7710 FAIR OAKS BLVD
Carmichael

PEMBERTON ENGINEERING

2050 Lyndell Ter Ste 200
Davis

PHILLIPS GROUP

10304 PLACER LN
Sacramento

PNC ENGINEERING

5543 TIERRA GARDENS LN
Carmichael

POINT 2 STRUCTURAL ENGINEERS

3701 BUSINESS DR
Sacramento

POSH PLATES

6440 CAPITOL AVE
Diamond Springs

PRESCOTT ENGINEERING

6448 MONITOR RD
El Dorado

QUANTS ENGINEERING, INC.

1665 E 4th St
Santa Ana

RECOIL LESS ENGINEERING

17985 RUDDY ST
Woodland

Reid Construction & Maintenance

1735 Enterprise Drive
Fairfield

REMINGTON ENGINEERING

774 Dynasty Dr
Fairfield

RICK ARMSTRONG ENGINEERING

809 W BRANNAN ISLAND RD
Isleton

ROBERTSON ENGINEERING

3111 Fite Cir Ste 101
Sacramento

ROGERS & ASSOC INC

1111 HOWE AVE
Sacramento

SABER ENGINEERING CO

1542 INDUSTRIAL DR
Auburn

SAC STAGING SOLUTIONS

5451 ARIS WAY
Carmichael

SAGE

8425 MILKY WAY
Orangevale

SANDERS & ASSOC

4180 DOUGLAS BLVD
Granite Bay

SCHWEITZER ENGINEERING LAB INC

600 E Main St Ste 100
Vacaville

SCS ENGINEERS

3117 FITE CIR
Sacramento

SEBAL NORTH AMERICA

1772 PICASSO AVE
Davis

SERT CONSULTING INC

3325 Cothrin Ranch Rd
Shingle Springs

SHANNON & WILSON INC

1722 3rd St Ste 100
Sacramento

SHECan2

2646 Waterton Wy
Sacramento

SIDEWINDER SOUND & LIGHTING

8545 MEANDERING WAY
Antelope

SIERRA ENGINEERING

3050 FITE CIR
Sacramento

Sierra Property Services

1015 Riley St, #311
Folsom

SIERRA TESTING LABORATORIES

485 Pierroz Rd Ste D
Placerville

SIGMA ENGINEERING

3517 MARCONI AVE
Sacramento

SIVE SVC

7986 RUNGE RD
Dixon

SKY ENGINEERING

2420 K ST
Sacramento

SMARTRISE ENGINEERING INC

3443 RAMONA AVE
Sacramento

SOIL SEARCH ENGINEERING

4088 BRIDGE ST
Fair Oaks

SOLANO ENGINEERING SVC

2401 WATERMAN BLVD
Fairfield

Springwood Construction & Equipment Inc.

9912 Business Park Dr
Sacramento

STAGE TO SELL ASP

4731 EL CAMINO AVE
Carmichael

STAGED-N-$OLD

2891 ANDERSON WAY
Sacramento

STANDING OVATION STAGING

3930 VALLEY VIEW CT
Fair Oaks

STAR-RAY PIPELINE INC

895 EMBARCADERO DR
El Dorado Hills

STEVENS FERRONE & BAILEY

3164 GOLD CAMP DR
Rancho Cordova

STRESSTEK

1805 ALPENGLOW LN
Lincoln

STRUCTURAL DESIGN

3941 PARK DR
El Dorado Hills

STRUCTURAL SYSTEMS

2221 CLAREMONT RD
Carmichael

SURFACE WATER RESOURCES

2031 HOWE AVE
Sacramento

T-NIE ENGINEERING

333 N SUNRISE AVE
Roseville

TABER CONSULTANTS

3911 W CAPITOL AVE
West Sacramento

TAIT GROUP

1020 16TH ST
Sacramento

Talkradiobuilder

PO Box 493803
Redding

TAYLOR SYSTEMS ENGINEERING

9801 FAIR OAKS BLVD
Fair Oaks

TDM ENGINEERING

11356 GOLD COUNTRY BLVD
Rancho Cordova

TECHNICAL SERVICES

2941 LINDEN LN
Carmichael

TERRY ENTERPRISES

1850 Nancy Ave
Los Osos

THEIS ENGINEERING

555 OAKDALE ST
Folsom

THOMAS R CURTIS PE

2130 21ST ST
Sacramento

THUNDERBIRD COMMUNICATIONS

1664 AUBURN RAVINE RD
Auburn

TILT-UP ENGINEERING SVC

4366 SHORTHORN RD
Rescue

TJKM TRANSPORTATION

980 9TH ST
Sacramento

TLC HOME STAGING

728 HANCOCK DR
Folsom

TRANS CORE

428 1/2 1ST ST
Woodland

TRIANGLE ENGINEERING

7229 DANTONI RD
Marysville

TROWBRIDGE ENGINEERING

8240 CARIBBEAN WAY
Sacramento

UPSTAGE RESDESIGN ASP

54 GREENWAY CIR
Sacramento

V E SOLUTIONS INC

650 University Ave Ste 110
Sacramento

VALENTINE HEATING & AIR

6900 GILLINGHAM WAY
North Highlands

VESTAS AWT

1785 TOLAND LN
Rio Vista

VON ROTZ CONSTRUCTION

2608 S ST
Sacramento

VSP WASTE WATER MANAGEMENT

2255 ELKHORN BLVD
Rio Linda

WAGNER & BONSIGNORE

444 N 3RD ST
Sacramento

WALLACE KUHL & ASSOC

3050 Industrial Blvd
West Sacramento

WARREN GREEN ENGINEERING

7537 DOVE CT
Granite Bay

WATER RESOURCES & INFORMATION

1451 RIVER PARK DR
Sacramento

WILLIAM D BEVIER INC

2479 SUNRISE BLVD
Rancho Cordova

WILLIAM E GREEN ASSOC

3928 MARYSVILLE BLVD
Sacramento

WILLIAM MERKEL ASSOC

2804 FULTON AVE
Sacramento

WILSON FREI STRUCTURAL ENGRNG

134 Darrington Dr
Folsom

WINN DITCH LINERS INC

19150 COUNTY ROAD
Woodland

WRC

525 MORSE AVE
Sacramento

Y & C TRANSPORTATION CONSLNTS

3250 RAMOS CIR
Sacramento

YORTON ENGINEERING

1364 SILVER SPUR CIR
Lincoln

ZFA STRUCTURAL ENGINEERS

7801 Folsom Blvd Ste 204
Sacramento

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