Richmond Lumber Stores

in Richmond, VA

176
Lumber Stores are
in Richmond

17
Lumber Stores in Richmond
are top rated

D
Rated by
MIKE M.
"I had to store the cabinets inside of my house. Cabinets were all good and ready to be installed. What should have taken 2 weeks including waiting for countertops, took 2 1/2 months." At the end of the first month, the basic cabinets were in, and the countertop was 80% done, but none of the trim work. If the installer said he would be at my place at 8:00 a.m., you could expect him around noon. The installer did quality work, but was extremely slow and he would only show up one day a week at most, usually Friday, and he would stay until 10:30 pm or until I told him to leave. He got very offended when we finally complained to
. We sub-contracted painting, electrical work, and flooring ourselves. Our subcontractors came when the installer was not there, and never held him up. The electrician had to wait on the cabinet installer several times. We had planned on a one month disruption. This got to be ridiculous. HD takes your money up front and you are left without any recourse.
B
Rated by
LOUIS J.
"I found the paint supply selection to be satisfactory. Lowe's had all of the items I needed such as brushes and drop cloths. Lowe's had about 5 "special" collections" of paint from various designers such as
. These required mixing. They also carried "standard" paint that did not require mixing. Each
of specialty paint cost about $22. I would recommend getting the
rather than the quart because the quart cost about $13. The mixing process took a little too long. There was only one person doing the mixing, so there were about 4 customers in line. I waited about 35 minutes just to get my paint mixed. Specialty paint cannot be returned. I did not find any computer assistance or the like, which would give me an estimate of how much paint I would need to buy (for given wall dimensions). I ended up needing to return to buy more paint.
B
Rated by
Shirley C.
"The
was new and I feel
's appliances should be better, because they break too easy. I think they should have more consideration" and not charged me. The technician that came out was very nice and did a good job. I haven t had any problems with the
since. That s the way things are made now a days.

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Angie's Answers

?
Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!
?
There are two sides to this and everyone will have an opinion.  I can tell you that from a contractor's point of view a customer that is up front with me is much easier to work with and the entire experience is much more pleasurable to all parties involved.  If you treat your contractor like there's always something to hide from him expect the same in return.  A good contractor is going to take your budget into consideration and make recommendations based on that budget.  When possible, he's going to estimate the work 10-20% under your target to leave room for the unexpected.  With any remodeling work, there's always the possibility and likelihood that there will be surprises that will have to be added such as mold damage, improper existing framing, etc.  The cushion allows room for the project cost to grow without going over your budget.  If no problems are found and you decide to spend that money some of the final finishes can be upgraded or other projects added.

Another good arguement for disclosing your budget to your contractor is to save you both some time and aggrevation.  You may have a $10,000 budget and want $30,000 worth of work.  Wouldn't you like to know your desires aren't possible before you get your hopes up or spend money on design fees for plans you can't afford?  Likewise, the contractor doesn't want to put in the hours of calculating the estimate only to find out it was all for nothing or that he has to refigure for a much lower cost after pricing what you specified.

Be fair and honest with your contractor if you expect the same respect in return.  You'll get a lot more out of it with the right contractor.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
San Antonio, TX
?

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.

 

?
You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
?
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!
?
Yes, you can ask for these items.  Second Century Homes answered your question well - most contractors do not do a break down to prevent haggling on items that shouldn't be part of the discussion.  People sometimes forget to allow the builder to make money. . .  Builders also want the entire job, not the nickle and dime menu selected items - you may find the contractor says "Thanks, but no thanks" if you ask them to remove portions of the work.

The real question is why do you need this break down?  If you are thinking you will do the demo yourself to save money, you can certainly tell your contractor this - but I would be willing to bet once you buy or rent the tools, haul the trash to the correct disposal dump (many trash dumps will not take home building materials anymore) and clean up / prep for the new work - you will have spent more and delayed the project more than just letting the professionals do it. Plus, do not be surprised when they still have to do additional demo work that you didn't know would be needed to complete the job, etc.

Also keep in mind that cutting portions of the work out of the job to do later is not a money saving move.  You will find that the cost for the individual items go up when done seperately - the contractor has to come back multiple times, has to set the equipment back up, possibly pull seperate permits, schedule the work crew / subs, etc.

If you are asking for the break down to compare bids, then again, tell the contractors what numbers you want to see.  If you are doing it because you feel the total price is too high, have a discussion with your contractor; they may be able to suggest ways to save costs, etc.  Ultimately if you know the materail costs, and have the total figure, you can do a pretty good estimate of the percentage for labor and profit in the job.

It is your project and your contract, so you can ask for anything you want on the quote - just be clear on why you want the information so the contractor can work with you.

Good luck!

Home Improvement Store reviews in Richmond

A

Rating
The were vbery helpful in letting me know that the price of the mulch I had seen in an ad had actually been reduced because a competitor had advertised an even lower price. They also located the patio stone that I wanted to use, counted it out and loaded it onto my truck. Great service!
- Merritt R.

All Lumber Stores in Richmond, VA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

84 LUMBER CO

ROUTE 519 BOX 1019

84 LUMBER CO

2400 STATION RD
Richmond

ABC BUILDING SUPPLY CORP

13201 RAMBLEWOOD DR
Chester

ABC SUPPLY CO INC

2120 BELLEMEADE RD
Richmond

ACE HARDWARE

7000 HARDWARE DR
Prince George

ADAMSON VIRGINIA SLATE

2471 GOODES BRIDGE RD
Richmond

ALLIED BUILDING PRODUCTS

2701 BELLS RD
Richmond

ALSCO METALS CORP

PO Box 2400
Chester

Amazon.com

PO Box 81226

American Siding Inc

9320 Overhill Rd
Richmond

AMERICAN STONE VIRGINIA LLC

8179 ARBA AVE
Ruther Glen

AMPRO TOOLS INC

1806 SUMMIT AVE
Richmond

AR HARDWARE

16300 DAWN BLVD
Hanover

ARTHUR'S ELECTRIC SVC INC

8910 BROOK RD
Glen Allen

Ascent Stairlifts

747 Sheridan Blvd #6D

ASHLAND ACE HARDWARE

105A N Washington Hwy
Ashland

ATLANTIC INDUSTRIAL SUPPLY INC

2030 CHAMBERLAYNE AVE
Richmond

BARBER & ROSS INCORPORATED

3301A ROSEDALE AVE
Richmond

BARRANGER & CO INC

11400 BUSINESS CENTER DR
Richmond

BATH PLUS

4201 JACQUE ST
Richmond

Bayne's Property Management

4300 Grantlake Road
Richmond

BLOCH LUMBER CO

5521 Grimes Farm Rd

BRADCO SUPPLY CORP

3250 COASTAL BLVD
Richmond

BUILDER'S SUPPLY CO-HOPEWELL

903 W CITY POINT RD
Hopewell

BUILDERS CHOICE SUPPLY CO

2801 OAK LAKE BLVD
Midlothian

BUILDERS SUPPLY

222 N MARKET ST
Petersburg

BUILDERS SUPPLY

2122 E WHITEHILL RD
Prince George

CARMEL CHURCH HARDWARE

18172 JEFFERSON DAVIS HWY
Ruther Glen

CARTER LUMBER

12144 WASHINGTON HWY
Ashland

CHESAPEAKE ENGINE DISTRIBUTORS

10241 SYCAMORE DR
Ashland

CHESAPEAKE STRUCTURAL SYSTEMS

2401 ROXBURY RD
Charles City

COLONIAL CONCRETE

900 BICKERSTAFF RD
Henrico

CONNER SMALL ENGINE

1000 TEMPLE AVE
Colonial Heights

CONTRACTOR YARD INC

12611 BERMUDA TRIANGLE RD
Chester

COSTCO WHOLESALE PHARMACY

9650 W BROAD ST
Glen Allen

COUNTRY CURTAINS

6239 RIVER RD
Henrico

COUNTRYSIDEFARM & HARDWARE

19237 PARTLOW RD
Beaverdam

CREATIVE BUILDING PRODUCTS INC

11120 AIR PARK RD
Ashland

DirectBuy of Richmond

12830 W CREEK PKWY
Henrico

DIYHomeCenter.com

2701 Larsen Rd

DOMINION INTERIOR SUPPLY CORP

2109 WESTMORELAND ST
Richmond

E T MOORE MFG INC

3100 N HOPKINS RD
Richmond

E.L. Foust Company Inc

754 N Industrial Dr

EASTERN ALUMINUM SUPPLY-VA

8030 Reycan Rd
Richmond

ECO SUPPLY CTR

1310 Roseneath Rd
Richmond

EK COMMANDO KNIFE CO

6767 FOREST HILL AVE
Richmond

ESSEX CONCRETE CORP

2391 LANIER RD
Rockville

ESSEX CONCRETE INC

932 POCOHONTAS TRL
Richmond

EUBANK & SONS

8824 BELMONT RD
Chesterfield

FERGUSON XPRESS

4813 FOREST HILL AVE
Richmond

Finishing Touch Design Decor

243 Harrje Street
Emporia

FIRST GUARDIN INVESTMENT CORP

1800 SEMMES AVE
Richmond

FLATROCK TRUE VALUE HARDWARE

2515 ANDERSON HWY E
Powhatan

FORESTRY EQUIPMENT SVC INC

10994 LEADBETTER RD
Ashland

GEORGE A DAVIS INC

2018 WILLIS RD
Richmond

GMJ Construction & Maintenance

5719 Cartersville Road
Powhatan

GRANITE COUNTERTOP EXPERTS LLC

5875B Jefferson Ave
Newport News

HANOVER FOREST PRODUCTS INC

1893 BILLINGSGATE CIR
Henrico

HANOVER TOOL

10417 Dow Gil Rd
Ashland

HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS USA INC

6500 HULL STREET RD
Richmond

HAYNES JEEP

7300 Brook Rd
Richmond

HENDRICKS CONCRETE ROOF TILE

12289 WASHINGTON HWY
Ashland

HOME DEPOT

12300 CHATTANOOGA PLZ
Midlothian

HOME DEPOT

1386 CARMIA WY
Richmond

HOME DEPOT

11260 W BROAD ST
Glen Allen

HOME DEPOT

7251 BELL CREEK RD
Mechanicsville

HOME DEPOT INC

6601 S LABURNUM AVE
Henrico

HOME DEPOT INC

12300 JEFFERSON DAVIS HWY
Chester

HOME DEPOT INC

2600 CONDUIT RD
Colonial Heights

HUGHES SUPPLY INC

1223 SCHOOL ST
Richmond

HUGHES SUPPLY INC

13519 ORCHID DR
Chesterfield

INTERIOR KITCHEN & BATH

2414 HULL ST
Richmond

IRONBRIDGE TOOL & SUPPLY

7706 BLUESPRUCE DR
Richmond

JAY KING DESHAZO ROOFING

10009 WHITESEL RD
Ashland

K J'S FOOD MARKET INC

8137 RICHMOND TAPPAHANNOCK HWY
Aylett

KIRKLAND'S

11800 W BROAD ST
Henrico

KIRKLAND'S HOME

10101 BROOK RD
Glen Allen

KIRKLAND'S HOME

232 SOUTHPARK CIR
Colonial Heights

LETT HARDWARE

2210 BROAD ROCK BLVD
Richmond

LIBERTY ROOFING CTR

1 E HUNDRED RD
Chester

LOUVER SHOP

2022 TACONY DR
Richmond

LOWE'S

1512 W KOGER CTR BLVD
Richmond

LOWE'S

2501 SHEILA LN
Richmond

LOWE'S

1604 E BROAD ST
Richmond

Lowe's Home Improvement

2601 Weir Pl
Chester

LOWES

7001 WINTERPOCK RD
Chesterfield

LOWES

1640 WEST BROAD ST
Richmond

LOWES

8001 BROOK RD
Richmond

LOWES

4401 POUNCEY TRACT RD
Glen Allen

LUD HUDGINS INC

21425 Hull Street Rd
Moseley

LUMBER TECHNOLOGY INC

9 GAMEBIRD CT
Manakin Sabot

Maid To Sparkle Cleaning Services Inc

2151 Carbon Hill Dr
Midlothia

MASSEY BUILDERS SUPPLY

PO Box 6417
Richmond

MC CORMICK INSULATION SUPPLY

9711 EXPRESS LN
Richmond

MC KAY TRUE VALUE HARDWARE

416 S 15TH AVE
Hopewell

METRO READYMIX

4950 PUDDLEDOCK RD
Prince George

METRO READYMIX CORP

1900 SOUTHCREEK ONE
Powhatan

MID ATLANTIC CONSTRUCTION SUPL

8820 BROOK RD
Glen Allen

MID SOUTH BUILDING SUPPLY

4700 EUBANK RD
Henrico

MILOS STRUCTURAL SYSTEMS

10409 DOW GIL RD
Ashland

MOBILE CONCRETE CORP

901 BICKERSTAFF RD
Henrico

MUSEUM RESOURCES

4101 S MOUNTCASTLE RD
Providence Forge

NATIONAL DISTRIBUTING INC

9102 DOVE CREEK PL
Mechanicsville

NORANDEX/REYNOLDS DISTRIBUTION

7500 WHITEPINE RD
Richmond

NORTHSIDE HARDWARE STORE

2925 NORTH AVE
Richmond

OLD DOMINION LUMBER DRYING INC

16415 WASHINGTON HWY
Doswell

ORO INTERIOR CONCEPTS

PO Box 18325
Richmond

PALADIN TOOLS

4455 Boeing Dr

Perfect Contracting Corp.

9361 Springmount Terrace
Chesterfield

Pine Court Apartments

1553 E Main St
Richmond

PLASTIC LUMBER SPECIALTIES

8501 BROOK RD
Glen Allen

PLEASANTS HARDWARE

2024 W BROAD ST
Richmond

PLEASANTS HARDWARE INC

423 N RIDGE RD
Henrico

PLEASANTS HARDWARE INC

4756 FINLAY ST
Henrico

PLEASANTS HARDWARE INC

5140 JEFFERSON DAVIS HWY
Richmond

PLEASANTS HARDWARE INC

11240 PATTERSON AVE
Henrico

PLEASANTS HARDWARE INC

6437 CENTRALIA RD
Chesterfield

PLEASANTS HARDWARE OXBRIDGE

9923 HULL STREET RD
Richmond

POWHATAN READY-MIX

13511 HULL STREET RD
Midlothian

PRECISION DOOR & HARDWARE

15455 GREENWOOD CHURCH RD
Ashland

PROFFIT STAIRWAY & MILL WORK

11912 CHURCH RD
Henrico

QUINTON HARDWARE BUILDING SUPL

2550 NEW KENT HWY
Quinton

R & D SALES & SVC

402 W WILLIAMSBURG RD
Sandston

R.W.Shaw Construction LLC

5430 Solaris Dr
Chesterfield

RAGSDALE BUILDING SUPPLY CTR

8511 BOYDTON PLANK RD
Petersburg

READY MIXED CONCRETE CO

3636 WARBRO RD
Midlothian

READY MIXED CONCRETE CO

1940 ASHLAND RD
Rockville

READY MIXED CONCRETE CO

11400 OLD STAGE RD
Richmond

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

RICHMOND PLUMBING SPECIALTIES

1625 N HAMILTON ST
Richmond

ROPER BROTHERS LUMBER CO INC

130 POCAHONTAS ST
Petersburg

ROPER SPECIALTIES

2179 TOMLYN ST
Richmond

ROXBURY READY MIX INC

2271 ROXBURY RD
Charles City

ROYAL PRESTIGE

302 TURNER RD
Richmond

ROYAL PRESTIGE

1901 N PARHAM RD
Henrico

ROYAL PRESTIGE SERMENO

7142 HULL STREET RD
Richmond

S B COX READY MIXED

1918 ANDERSON HWY
Powhatan

SAFEWAY STEEL

2013 LOUMOUR AVE
Richmond

SALADMASTER DEALER

2909 BROOK RD
Richmond

Sears Stores

10101 Brook Rd
Glen Allen

Shenandoah Shutters

2800 Cofer Rd
Richmond

SHUTTER COMPANY

8501 STAPLES MILL RD
Henrico

SIEWERS LUMBER & MILLWORK

PO Box 6237
Richmond

SMITH & HAWKEN

9200 STONY POINT PKWY
Richmond

SOUND STRUCTURES OF VIRGINIA

11921 OLDE COACH DR
Midlothian

SOUTHERN DISCOUNT TOOL INC

10049 LICKINGHOLE RD
Ashland

SOUTHERN HARDWARE & BUILDING

225 N SOUTH ST
Petersburg

SOUTHERN STATES-VILLAGE GREEN

16618 MOUNTAIN RD
Montpelier

SOUTHSIDE KUBOTA

PO Box 10
Locust Hill

STOCK BUILDING SUPPLY

4111 EUBANK RD
Henrico

STONEYARD.COM

265 Foster St

TCS MATERIALS CORP

26505 SIMPSON RD
Petersburg

The Home Depot

10233 Lakeridge Parkway
Ashland

THYSSENKRUPP SAFWAY INC

2013 LOUMOUR AVE
Richmond

TIDEWATER INTERIOR PRODUCTS

11066 WASHINGTON HWY A
Glen Allen

TIDEWATER MATERIALS CORP

12020 OLD STAGE RD
Chester

TITAN AMERICA

PO Box 7892
Henrico

TOOL GUYS

5001 LAKESIDE AVE
Henrico

TOOLS & EQUIPMENT INC

104 S TAYLOR ST
Ashland

TRUE VALUE HARDWARE

10400 LEADBETTER RD
Ashland

Vamac - Plumbing, Well & Septic Supply

4201 Jacque Street
Richmond

VECTOR MARKETING CORP

2201 E PARHAM RD
Henrico

VIRGINIA CONCRETE CO

272 GROVE AVE
Petersburg

VIRGINIA TOOL & EQUIPMENT CO

5120 GLEN ALDEN DR
Henrico

WHOLESALE MILLWORK

3703 Carolina Ave
Richmond

WOODLAWN CONSTRUCTION CO

11006 COBBS RD
Glen Allen

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