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Over 4,733 reviews for
Richmond Drain Pipe Contractors from people just like you.

" West was responsive to my request for a quote and did the work when he said he would do it. After the grading was complete there wasn't" quite enough sod to cover the area. When I brought this to 's attention he replied with "I did run a Little short on sod and will try to get more to you by mid next week." I have contacted him at least 4 times since then, and despite his promise to deliver the sod, he has not. It is now the first of October and will have to finish the job myself. For the most part the drain works, although the pitch doesn't allow the water in the line to drain completely. I was impressed with until we paid for the job, but I may not use them again due to their lack of concern over this issue.

-Lawrence H.

" called me back the day after I first called him and came by that morning to give me an estimate. He was to come back the next day to do the" work, but called later in the afternoon and said he had a cancellation and could come right then. Great for me. He had cut a hole in the kitchen wall earlier to get an idea of the damage the screws had done to the waste pipe and had checked what he needed to buy for the toilet repair, so he picked those items up on his way back to the house. He offered to buy the spray foam for my fireplace fix-up as I had planned to do that myself, but when I asked him to add that to what he was doing, he said he'd be glad to do it. It took him and his helper about 2 hrs, and another quick run to Lowes to get it all completed. The toilet problem turned out to be a bit more than was initially obvious and required an additional part. Because I added on some additional work and the toilet project grew a bit, the initial estimate was no longer accurate. But even with the additions, it still did not increase the overall cost very much. was a pleasure to work with, as was his helper. I could not have been more pleased. There is very little that he can't do and therefore he makes a great person to take care of those odd jobs (big and small) that crop up around the house.

-Patricia B.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.


If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.


Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.


As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.



Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Richmond


Excellent! We were getting water backing up in our back yard and seeping into the basement, a condition exacerbated by our terraced yard & deterioration of existing drain pipe system. Since Mr. 's work, we've been bone dry. Mr. was present for the work. His bid was mid-range of several we ...More received. His solution to our problem was innovative and successful. He is polite, professional, and timely.

I was extremely satisfied with the customer service. I obtained 4 estimates, and was in the middle. Comparatively expensive, I thought it was a good price for what he was to do. They stayed in communication and did exactly what they said they would do when they said they would do it. They were very flexible in working with my ...More schedule. After the recent 3'' rain, there are a couple of problem areas yet to resolve. It is yet to be determined if that will be done. However, after talking with , I am confident it will be. I intend to use him to rebuild the walkway and would not hesitate to refer him to others.

I had an obvious drainage problem around my house and swimming pool resulting in water standing in several areas of my property and water inside my crawlspace.
Before the project began, I received a proposal from . He was very knowledgeable and took the time to answer all of my questions and explain the scope of work before ...More the contract was signed.
and his crew were very professional and were wonderful to deal with throughout the whole project. They took great care of my property, digging all of the drainage trenches by hand. They took special care not to disturb the existing buried plumbing for my swimming pool. Each day would show me the progress they had made and explained exactly what they were doing. He would always let me know when he and his crew were planning to be working on the property. He was very accommodating and took the time to answer all of my questions during the project. I was very impressed to see a huge improvement in the drainage of my yard even when the project was only partially complete. When the project was completed, he took the time to explain the entire drainage system he had installed and how it was supposed to function. I can't say enough good things about and his workers. They did an excellent job, especially in the midst of the heat and humidity that were present during the entire project.
I would most definitely recommend this company to anyone needing drainage work done.
- Christopher W.

Plumbing and Heating installed a faucet on the outside of my foundation a little more than a year ago. I was very impressed with the company at that time. Recently, the faucet began leaking badly. They had to replace an integral part of the faucet. I was equally impressed with the company this time. They were professional, ...More came on time,. made the repair and honored the previous work free of charge. Their customer service is, in my opinion, unparalleled compared with most companies. will be my first call when I need a plumber because of their ethical integrity and outstanding customer service.

Found them on Angie's list. Contacted them and they sent someone out to look at the problem. (The problem was leakage from a broken clean out valve). Was told an estimate was difficult because the pipe needed to be uncovered to determine extent of damage. Was given an estimate of $1500-2500. I ok'd the work and provided an down payment ...More of $750. (I was quoted a $1500 down payment but objected and it was reduced to $750) Because of another large job and weather scheduling the work was a challenge for them and me. Once finally scheduled they showed up on time and completed the work in less than a day. The area of work was in a tough location to get to. They were great in getting the machinery to where it needed to be with very little impact on the surrounding area. Pipe was replaced and soil restored to original condition. No seeding or straw was placed in the area although I thought that was to be included. This was not a big problem as the work was done in area that I intend to leave natural. Upon completion of the work we were told total cost was $2500 and a 10% Angie's List discount was applied bringing the final cost to $2250. The invoice was e mailed a few days later.
- Roger B.

From the first contact with until the last, everyone I dealt with was profressional and courteous. The office personnel who provided the initial information and estimate and who kept me updated on the progress of the project -- which was mired by complications caused by the City and not -- was an example ...More of exemplary customer service. In addition, the people who actually performed the service were likewise professional and always willing to let me know what was going on and why. They worked with the City to obtain the best solution for our sewer line replacement and did not charge me more because of the City's problems, even though they had to do more work, over a longer time period, than anticipated by the estimate and contract. I would recommend this company to anyone facing sewer line replacement. The best company with the best service and highest level of customer service and integrity.
- Meredith M.

Three guys arrived at 8:30 am and started digging up my front yard from house (went under the front sidewalk) to the street. I was very impressed with their efficiency and neatness. From start to finish it took them about 8 hours, but part of that time was waiting for the County inspector before they could close up the hole.
They turned an unexpected ...More and unpleasant experience into one that I can now boast about. So glad I found them on Angie's List!!
- Linda F.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Richmond

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & J Home Remodeling

3212 South 13th Rd

A Class Above Home Rehab

12521 Serenity Ct
Glen Allen

Adiches Concrete & Construction LLC

P.O. 1720 Midlothian VA

AK Homes

2140 Haleford ct.

Allen Rasnake General Contractor

1713 Old Hundred Road

Alliance Air & Duct Inc

10301 Hull Street Road

ARS / Rescue Rooter Manassas - 9201

9070 Euclid Ave

B. R. Bowles LLC

PO Box 1313

BDP Excavating

19 Reese Ave

Best Price Plumbing Inc.

11324 Longtown Drive


PO Box 4072


10221 Krause Rd

Bubbas Handyman Service

3803 Chamberlayne Ave

C&M Outlaws LLC

P.O. Box 34772
N Chesterfield

Carroll Plumbing & Heating Inc

2108 Maywill St

Chase Inc

100 Oak Glen St


1500 New York Avenue
Glen Allen

Competence Inc

111 John Tyler Memorial Hwy

Curmar Contracting, LLC

5118 boscobel ave

Dave's Handyman Service

6108 Charles City Road

Dominion Plumbing

9200 Belcherwood RD

Dr. Tom, LLC.

18140 Shumans Rd
Ruther Glen



Dynamic Drain Technologies LLC

2597 Quality Ct.
Virginia Beach

Ed's Landscaping & Garden Center

5172 Cold Harbor Rd

Faithful Works Service & Repairs

7326 Cannock Rd

Griffith Enterprises

3791 Maidens Rd

Guirkin Plumbing & Heating

8447 Glazebrook Ave

H&L Services

606 Roxbery Industrial Ctr
Charles City

Harrison Construction LLC

PO Box 2001

Harry's Plumbing and Heating

2507 Libbie ave.

Hawthorne's Plumbing Inc

PO Box 490




14241 Midlothian Tpke

inSite Companies

1900 E Belt Blvd

IQ Construction LLC

2707 Iverson Road

JES Foundation Repair

1741 Corporate Landing Parkway
Virginia Beach

Joe P Clark Inc

5518 Mcclellan Rd

Keil Plumbing & Heating Inc

2507 Willard Rd

L G Scott Landscaping & Tree Service

12700 Sterling Heights Ln
Providence Forge

Land Designs LLC

7357 Travellers Way



Michael & Son Services Richmond

1407 Cummings Drive

Michael & Son Svc Inc

5740 General Washington Dr

Miller Tyme Roofing and Construction, LLC.

5509 Pony Farm Drive

Moisture and Mold Solutions

10400 Chester Road

Mr Rooter Of Richmond

718 Grove Rd

Neighborhood Handyman

2813 Hilliard Road

Nelson Construction

4110 Townhouse RD.


PO BOX 35181

Old Dominion Septic & Rooter

7825 Midlothian Tnpke

Oriole Landscaping

10821 Shingle Oak Rd

Outdoor Delight Landscaping

7804 Dalmain Dr.

Pay less plumbing services.

5466 Mechanicsville Turnpike

Plumb Magic, LLC

310 Central Rd #5


PO Box 213

R B Contractor, Inc

55244 South Ave

R J Tilley Plumbing & Heating Inc

11058 Washington Hwy
Glen Allen

R.J. Davis Lawncare Inc

10123 Barrett Park Rd

Raindrop Irrigation Inc.

8263 Redberry Lane

Reel Time, LLC

4006 West End Dr.
Glen Allen

Rhodes Construction Co

1220 Richeson Ave

Richmond Irrigation & Outdoor Lighting



1820 Ruffin Mill Circle
Colonial Heights

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

2921 Cardwell Rd

SA Toler Construction Inc

2221 Belt Blvd

Santos Renovation

6139 Strathmore Rd

Seal-Tite Basement Waterproofing Company

355 Olde Rte 604

Specialty Drainage

2308 Spencer Rd

Spotlight Builders

9200 Belcherwood Rd

Stable Foundations LLC

12439 Maple St

Stemmle Plumbing Repair Inc

PO Box 35680



T & T Landscaping

10703 Hunters Landge Ct

The Plumbing Crew

9955 Royerton Drive

Trogdon Enterprises

PO Box 74292
North Chesterfield

Underground Services First

2906 Chamberlayne Ave

Value Dry Waterproofing

8735 Bollman Place

Vaughan Landscape Services

413 Erich Rd



walls landscape management

1706 Rockwood Road


PO Box 875

Wells & Daughters Con.

19501 englishwellsway

White Glove Plumbing - Heating & Air

2606 Oak Lake Blvd

Windle Co. Inc

4151 Mountain RD
Glen Allen

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