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A
"Good, PSNC came to inspect their work and several areas had to have more re-insulation added that was missed on the day of work. Emerald returned on a Sat. to complete" this work and the paperwork completed so that I got an energy rebate from PSNC.

-Sally T.

A
"I was incredibly impressed with Insulations job at my house recently. Everyone involved on the project was amazingly professional and helpful." I would highly recommend them to anyone!! Our house is already increasingly cooler to the spray foam insulation that was installed in our VERY hot attic! Thanks again for everything!

-Mary W.

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Local Articles in Raleigh

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

foundation installation

Insulating the outside of your foundation can help lower energy bills and keep your house warmer in winter.

Radiant barrier in attic

HVAC systems work more efficiently with the addition of a reflective barrier as part of your attic insulation.

Angie's Answers

?

Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

?

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Insulation reviews in Raleigh

D

Rating
My job was small so I was fit in when they had cancellations. It would have been nice if they had told me that in advance. I was looking for another company when I got a surprise call and was available. It was the afternoon on a hot day that a broken down looking truck showed up with three Mexican workers and not one spoke basic English. They did ...More not understand the set up that I had discussed with the estimator, and my Spanish is not that advanced to discuss insulation removal procedures. The fiberglass is supposed to be removed through a hose to the truck, but they were leaving the attic door open so that the fiberglass particles would enter the airspace of the home. There was no one supervising. I called in, and after a while the estimator showed up. He sealed one of the workers in the attic with garbage bags. The worker was not provided with a portable air conditioner or fans I thought they were supposed to have. He was wearing protective gear which is good but hot. The estimator made small talk with me in the cool about his career aspirations and how he hated that he had to go into an attic at 7:30 that morning. He did not stick around for the job completion since he was overbooked (they said I was given an opening that day for a cancellation but apparently they were too busy to tend to my job in spite of the cancellation) however he asked me to call him when the men were finished so that they wouldn't claim excess time. He said they were always trying to get paid more money. I did not call. Unfortunately I did not see the condition of the worker who came out of the attic because he left hurriedly while I was out back. But after this I bought a powerful portable A/C in case there is other attic work, as I do not believe anyone should subject their workers to these conditions. Why don't they provide the A/C? I did not sign up for this and was taken by surprise. I should have asked them to leave on account of the heat and lack of supervision. The worker did get most of the fiberglass out of the attic but there was still some left behind. I am not faulting the workers. I have contacted the company twice and asked them to send someone with a shop vac to get the remaining fiberglass out of the attic, and to please at least respond with their intent. I have heard nothing and think I am possibly being fit in again for a "cancellation." The worst thing about this company from my perspective was that they do not regard their workers as human beings.
- Gwendolyn A.
A

Rating
I am very pleased with the quality of the work performed. was careful to protect the carpets and furniture within the finished portion of the basement. The materials and workmanship applied to sealing the space, insulating, applying the vapor , digging and installing the sump,installing the dehumidification ...More system, and troubleshooting unexpected problems were all first rate. The final result is very impressive; the space has been transformed from a musty, moldy space for bugs into useable storage space. I am especially impressed by the way that pre-existing problems with my HVAC system were resolved. Mr failed to warn me that my HVAC was not installed and filtered entirely correctly, but that is not his area of expertise. He admitted that he would normally expect to recognize insufficient fresh air intake when planning to seal a crawl space, and was willing to absorb the cost of that portion of the modifications to my HVAC. I am impressed by his professionalism and obvious interest in providing a quality product. The electrician and HVAC contractors that he coordinated with to complete my work were also refreshingly prompt, and their work of similar high quality.
- Michael L.
D

Rating
I have had many problems, sent a certified letter to owner concerning the problems I experienced with the installation and days after. My house never cooled in every room altho someone came out several times. Now, my house doesn't warm evenly in all rooms. I also had a smell in the house during the summer, called and the tech did not know what ...More to do. I was just told my a tech on 11-11-14 that something should have been sprayed on the coils when the temp was above 72. I had the smell again when the heater came on. I do not trust that all the techs know how to fix the problems and I do not feel that the installation was done properly. Due to medical concerns, I can not keep being hot and cold. I do not trust this company. I asked for this system to be taken out in February and I would still like for both to be taken out without doing any damage to my home. This has been a bad experience from day one.
- Pearl W.
A

Rating
Good job. First fellow came out and did the mold treatment. Wow is that knarly. He had the full contam suit on. Scrubbed all the joists with a solution. Took much of a day to apply.
Next a day a pair of fellows removed debris, then put down 20-mil on ground and around block supports, and a 1.5in insulation board insulation ...More on the walls, and filled in the vents to the outside. Its really pretty down there now.
My only knit is that I wish they hand more branding on their vehicles; two different crews and then the original job-quoter fellow; and it would have been nice if they had something with some identification like most of the other vendors we have had out.
A couple follow up issues were handled promptly. We really like results and would use them for future work.
- Kenneth A.
A

Rating
They are always great. We have been using them for the last 5-6 years. The technicians have always been very thorough, knowledgeable, and they do a great job. My husband is very pleased with them and if he is pleased with them then they are good. We have a maintenance contract with them.
- marion G.
A

Rating
I wish I had contacted to do this service earlier. was very professional and went out of his way to work around our schedule to get the work done. Our house is fairly old (built in 1952), and I previously felt like it was well insulated... but the work did has made an enormous ...More difference in the interior temperature in our house. Previously, the kitchen in our house stayed pretty hot in the summer time while the rest of the house would be several degrees cooler, but not anymore. Overall, the service they did was great, and was very professional. I highly recommend both the service and the provider.
- Charles L.
A

Rating
Our experience with was fantastic. We found them on Angie's List and initially contacted them because they advertised a vapor in the crawlspace for $165. Ironically, their price for our vapor was actually $145. came out to meet with us and discuss the ...More issues we had in our crawlspace (increased humidity, standing water, and fungal growth). They provided pictures of our crawl space, which was extremely helpful because it's not a place we like to go, since it's only a foot or so tall in places. The pictures helped them to show us the problems they found under our house. We had researched the price of insulation and the going rates for vapor barriers and clean-up, and I felt that their price was extremely fair. For just a vapor , new insulation (ours was 20+ years old), and clean-up of mold growth plus a dehumidifier for a week or so, they quoted us $2200, very reasonable. In the end, we decided to go with the crawlspace encapsulation, because we were concerned about humidity and moisture under our home. It was a good choice. It took 2.5 days to complete, the team was very quiet and careful. They cleaned up after themselves and took great care with our property. And was available at all times to answer questions, which we really appreciated. The work was excellent. We felt it was money well spent and they took great care to come out several times after the work was completed to ensure our happiness. They even identified a case of poison ivy near our front door and brought us a bottle of poision ivy/weed . We were very pleased and would recommend them without hesitation.
- Tracy P.
A

Rating
It went extremely well. , though delayed on some appointments, always called to let me know of the delay and the new approximate arrival time. Once started the job it went very quickly. I decided to get the temperature gauge for inside the house, which would let me know if the unit was working and the ...More amount of humidity in the crawlspace & inside the house.
went above & beyond when he helped me secure my crawlspace door with doorstop insulation. This was very much appreciated. I had previously purchased the doorstop insulation but wanted the dehumidifier installed first so as not to damage the installation. quickly and efficiently installed to insured that dampness would not come in around the crawlspace door.
is a very nice person as well as professional and competent. He cleaned up the work area, spent time showing me the temperature gauge, and answering my many questions.
I would not hesitate to call on for future projects.

- EVELYN N.

Insulation Contractors in Raleigh

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1 Extreme 2 Another Construction

PO Box 907
Youngsville

2-brother renovation

220 dogwood st
Cary

360 Remodel LLC

14460 New Falls of Neuse
Raleigh

3G construction

1658 whites kennel rd
Burlington

4-Adrywall solutions LLC

71-B Bell circle
Chapel Hill

7 Star General Contracting LLC

4805 Christian Chapel Church Rd
New Hill

A & E Heating & Air Conditioning

505 Cornerstone Ct Ste B
Hillsborough

A+ Mor Remodeling

6711 ROCK GLEN WAY
Raleigh

AEI CONSTRUCTION

8016 monitor Qt
Apex

Affordable Home Improvement

10301 Falls Mill Dr
Raleigh

Allied Spray Foams Inc

2624 Avent Ferry Rd
Holly Springs

ALLPRO INSULATION

PO Box 395
Youngsville

American Craftsmen of NC

1921 N Pointe Dr
Durham

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

APPLE BLOSSOM INSULATORS

2905 HAWTREE DR
Raleigh

Arrowhead Repair Services

3149 Winding Waters Way
Raleigh

ARS / Rescue Rooter Raleigh

517 Pylon Dr
Raleigh

Art Builders

1239 Wicker Drive
Raleigh

B&T HVAC Services Inc

992 Horton Pond Rd
Apex

Baker Roofing Co

517 Mercury St
Raleigh

Barker Property Maintenance Company

1401 Sunday Drive
Raleigh

Beasley's Heating & Air, Inc.

57 W.C. Beasley Lane
Coats

Best Skill, LLC

4512 Fawn Glen Dr
Raleigh

Bill's Hire-A-Hubby

4220 Old Graham Rd
Pittsboro

BOATWRIGHT INSULATION CO INC

1900 AL BOAT DR
Raleigh

Bragg Premier Home Improvements

65 Edgemont Ave
Roxboro

C & S CONTRACTING INC

4605 TREADSTONE CT
Raleigh

Cape Fear Remodeling

223 Donnibrook Run
Fuqauy Varina

Carolina Climate Control

347 Riverstone Dr
Clayton

Carolina Fix-It, Inc.

303 Rose Court
Benson

Carolina Restoration Services

8160 Chapel Hill Rd
Cary

Carolina Weatherization

4824 Watkins Rd.
Raleigh

Cary Reconstruction Co LLC

2410 Reliance Ave
Apex

Cedarbrook Construction LLC

6932 Darcy Ln
Raleigh

Choice Home Improvements, Inc.

104 Oakland Ave.
Drexel

Cole Restoration Services

81 River Forest Drive
Pittsboro

Cole Roofing & Construction

3901 University Dr
Durham

conners construction

1028 Wintu Ct
Raleigh

Core Home Solutions, Inc.

510 Meadowmont Village Circle
Chapel Hill

Core Remodeling Group Inc

1109 Classic Rd
Apex

CORNERSTONE CONSTRUCTION

5011 DEPARTURE DR
Raleigh

CORNERSTONE RESIDENTIAL BLDRS

5405 BLUEBELL CT
Holly Springs

Country Boy Builder

3100 Edgetone Dr
Raleigh

Country Boy Builders

3100 Edgetone Dr
Raleigh

Covenant Roofing and Construction Inc

3200 Gresham Lake Rd
Raleigh

Craftsmen Builders

813 Prince St
Cary

Crawlspace Doctor

32 Arrowwood Ct.
Durham

Creative Building Solutions of America

3308 Twin Leaf Drive
Raleigh

CRITTER CONTROL

4225 BENNETT MEMORIAL RD
Durham

Dandi Home Restoration

4108 Amherst Ln
Raleigh

Davis Home Improvement

327 Woodchase Green Dr
Fuquay Varina

DC Handy Men

709 Carver St.
Durham

Decocorp Construction

9950 S Ocean Dr Apt 301

DHT ENTERPRISES OF DURHAM

618 N Mineral Springs Rd
Durham

Dimensional Home Improvements

PO Box 1156
Holly Springs

DO ALL CONTRACTORS

P.O. Box 61043
Raleigh

DOUGLAS CONTRACTING

2405 Andor Pl
Raleigh

DreamQuest, Inc.

5013 N Glen Drive
Raleigh

Drurys Hobbies and Construction

13002 Eagle Ridge Drive
Zebulon

E2 Technologies, Inc.

145 US Hwy 70 W
Garner

Eagle eye enterprises

601Boling St
Clayton

EAS Professional Painting

5213-107 Wynslow Park Drive
Raleigh

East Coast Builders

3608 Davis Dr
Morrisville

EASTERN INSULATION CO

PO Box 15400
Durham

EATMANS CARPETS & INTERIORS

8101 GLENWOOD AVE
Raleigh

ECO IRRIGATION INC

6300 Limousine Drive
Raleigh

EcoMaster LLC

2921 Glade Aster Ct.
Raleigh

Emerald Energy

PO Box 99031
Raleigh

Energeyes

107 Fawn Drive
Wake Forest

Energy Pros of NC

12335 Wake Union Church Rd
Wake Forest

EV MULTIPLE CONSTRUCTION,INC

1120 Delano St
Durham

Excella Roofing

112 Thistle Dr
Youngsville

Express Concrete LLC

4413 Cardinal Grove Blvd
Raleigh

F. A. Ray

PO Box 3761
Cary

Falcone Crawl Space & Structural Repair

1883 Scott Futrell Dr
Charlotte

Fan Man Inc Raleigh

1513 Ramson Ct
Raleigh

Fix-R-Uppers

8721 Mansfield Dr
Raleigh

Four of a kind Home Improvment

1613 Cool Springs Rd
Sanford

Fresh Air

Raleigh

GOG UNLIMITED,LLC

PO BOX 11164
Durham

Gonzalez Painters & Contractors LLC

4301 Bennett Memorial Rd
Durham

Grade-A-Structures

5808 old nc 10
Durham

Green Horizon

4620 Industry Lane Suite C
Durham

Green Planet Energy Solutions

9101 Southern Pine Blvd Ste 320
Charlotte

Green Planet Energy Solutions

9101 Southern Pine Blvd Ste 320
Charlotte

GreenTech,LLC

2500 Walnut St
Cary

Gsenfas LLC

206 Eagle Tavern dr
Garner

H. Elliott Construction

1605 Twin Lake Dr.
Holly Springs

H.R.S

P.O Box 1203
Durham

Handyman Advantage

PO Box 80505
Raleigh

Healthy Home Diagnostics

5420 Old Poole Rd
Raleigh

Healthy Home Insulation

988 Trinity Rd
Raleigh

Healthy Home Restoration

6808 Branton Dr
Cary

Hills Lawn & Auto Care

Pope Rd
Creedmoor

Hohl's Renovations LLC

6316 Willowdell Dr
Wake Forest

HOME DEPOT

4901 CAPITAL BLVD
Raleigh

Home Depot

9517 Strickland Rd
Raleigh

Home Performance NC

4608 Industry Ln
Durham

HORIZON CONTRACTING

6321 TAYLOR RD
Wendell

House Doctor

380 Collinsworth Dr
Clayton

Hutch Sunrooms Plus

2708 Exchange Dr, Unit A
Wilmington

Imagine Construction

PO Box 30154
Raleigh

Inline Restoration

2228 Page Road
Durham

Integrity Roofing and Construction

6310 Terra Verde Dr
Raleigh

J&J Construction Association

5734 Severn Grove Dr.
Durham

J&R Home Improvement and More

1421 E Broad Street Suite 241
Fuquay Varina

J&S Cleaning and Repair

13200 Strickland Road
Raleigh

Jeff Pearson Home Repairs

104 N Bend Dr
Knightdale

Jenkins Restorations

7517 Precision Drive Suite 112
Raleigh

Jordan's Heating and Cooling Service

114 Hillside Dr
Louisburg

JOSEPH A BRADY

314 Bowen St
Franklinton

JOURDAN INSULATION

1001 S CHATHAM AVE
Siler City

Just Josh Odd Jobs and Designs

7509 Idolbrook Ln
Raleigh

Laffler Custom Homes LLC

231 Greenlyn Dr
Clayton

LiveGreen Inc

3115 Heritage Trade Dr
Zebulon

LOWE'S

4601 CAPITAL BLVD
Raleigh

Lynn's Renovation Gang LLC

309 Buck Jones Rd
Raleigh

Mac and Alina Painting, LLC

825 Brigham Road
Raleigh

McNeely Pest Control

3831 Reynolda Rd
Winston Salem

Mhiworks

2304 brimwater dr
Raleigh

Molescapes

PO Box 17128
Raleigh

Mr. Handyman of Western Wake County

4104 Ridgebluffs Court
Raleigh

My Man Cleaners

200 Culvert St Apt A
Apex

NC Home Solutions

3926 Cumberland Rd
Fayetteville

NC Solar Now

3401-101 Atlantic Avenue
Raleigh

Neely Custom Builders LLC

129 Meadows Cir
Knightdale

ONE CALLDOES IT ALL

1595 CAPITOL BLVD
Raleigh

ONOFRIO CONSTRUCTION INC

8804 Gulf Courtt Ste I
Raleigh

Orkin Pest Control

609 Mercury St
Raleigh

PATIO ENCLOSURES INC OF RALEIGH

1030 MORRISVILLE PKWY
Morrisville

Peak Energy Inc

PO Box 1241
Holly Springs

Pinter Construction & Development

11709 Appaloosa Run E
Raleigh

Prime Energy Group

PO BOX 10156
Raleigh

Professional Renovation Services

1124 Sandel Lane
Raleigh

ProTech Repair & Restoration

219-B Garner Business Ct.
Garner

R & D Painting

232 Wintergreen Dr
Garner

R Harward Construction

PO Box 367
Hillsborough

RAC Construction

1108 Athens Drive
Raleigh

Raleigh Waterproofing Inc

2610 Rowland Rd
Raleigh

Ramos Waterproofing & Seal Crawlspace

101 Wesley Street
Carrboro

Razon Contracting

2424 Lark St
Fuquay Varina

Regional Waterproofing Inc

PO Box 917
Zebulon

Remediation & Consulting Services

3004 Dunkirk Dr
Raleigh

RES

522 PERSHING RD
Raleigh

RES CONTRACTING SVC INC

522 PERSHING RD
Raleigh

RESIDENTIAL CONSTRUCTION

1424 BASCOMB DR
Raleigh

Restoration Now of North Carolina, Inc.

2113 Sandy Plains Road
Wake Forest

Ridgeline Roofing

4116 Old Franklinton Rd
Franklinton

Romero Construction INC

910 E. Ellerbee st.
Durham

Roof Roof

2828 Queen City Dr.
Charlotte

Roseman Enterprises, Inc (dba FASTHELP

135 Victoria Hills Drive
Fuquay Varina

Scott Riley Builders Inc

326 Roseland Ave
Durham

Scotts Customs, LLC

2695 Government Road
Clayton

Sealed Solution

2518 Saint Paul's Square
Raleigh

Sealing Agents Waterproofing

PO Box 2370
Indian Trail

SERVICE ALTERNATIVES

103 Shady Ln
Clayton

Service Experts Heating & Air Conditioning

2815 S Wilmington St
Raleigh

Shamrock Waterproofing

6021 Glenthorne Dr
Raleigh

Simpkins Construction Inc.

2517 Floyd Drive
Raleigh

Sivad Construction LLC

PO BOX 2291
Garner

Smallcuts Home Improvement

3615 Britt Street
Durham

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Smith Exterminating Company Inc

5507 Hillsborough St
Raleigh

Something Constructive

841 Valerie Dr
Raleigh

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Southern Energy Management

101 Kitty Hawk Dr
Morrisville

Spray Foam Insulation of NC

1023 Denning Road
Benson

Stetten Realty Inc

3117 Kentish Town Ln
Raleigh

STOCK BUILDING SUPPLY

3000 YONKERS RD
Raleigh

SUNRISE TILE & MARBLE INSTALLATIONS

PO BOX.1085
Holly Springs

TATUM INSULATION II

519 OLD DRUG STORE RD
Garner

TEBCO Maintenance

PO Box 21
Wilson's Mills

The Crawl Space Cleaners

224 West Oak Way
Sanford

The Kitchen & Bath Showroom

1289 N Fordham Blvd
Chapel Hill

The Lambeth Co

5716 Heatherstone Dr
Raleigh

The Mold Solutions Group

2800 Winningham Rd.
Chapel Hill

The Surrell Group: LLC

3222 Ode Turner Rd
Hillsborough

Total Construction by Dale Lands LLC

13376 US Hwy 70 Business West
Clayton

Totally Legit Construction

812 Riverview Road
Raleigh

Tri-City Insulation

7204 Becky Circle
Raleigh

TRI-THERM INSULATION INC

1406 SMITH RENO RD
Raleigh

Triangle Home Care

416 Cedarview Court
Raleigh

Triangle Home Solutions

1745 Laurel Park Pl
Cary

Triangle Reconstruction

1201 Alderwood ct
Apex

Triangle Renovations Inc

2069 Bowen Rd
Rougemont

triangle restoration

9302 ten ten road
Raleigh

Trutech Inc

155 Glen Valley Rd
Raleigh

Urban Wildlife and Bee Removal

5351 Barclay Dr.
Raleigh

US Structures Corp

2474-337 Walnut St.
Cary

USA Insulation of Raleigh

5540 Atlantic Springs Rd
Raleigh

Vittro Glass

718 Cameorn Woods Dr
Apex

Vuncannon Contracting LLC

477 Avery Spence Rd
Fuquay Varina

VZ Competitive Painting And Restoration

7334 Chapel Hill Rd
Raleigh

W.M. Woodworking

1609 Tall Cane Circle
Willow Spring

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WINDO THERM

PO Box 405

Wood Termite & Pest Control, Inc.

1336 N Brightleaf Blvd
Smithfield

Woodwright Builders

1203 Bayview Ct
Franklinton

Woody's Renovations and Maintenance Inc.

136 White Oak Dr
Youngsville

Worker Bees Home Servies, Inc.

1421 E Broad Street, #241
Fuquay Varina

WP Cleaning Solutions, Inc.

2500 Dunmore Ct.
Wake Forest

Your Service Professional

6033 Epping Forest Drive
Raleigh

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