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Hardware Stores to Avoid

97

Top Rated Hardware Stores

15

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Over 576 reviews for
Raleigh Hardware Stores from people just like you.

A
"im only writing this so you'll stop 'reminding' me to provide a review. It's been two and a half YEARS. Why isn't there a way to say I" don't WANT TO DO A REVIEW? THIS IS RIDICULOUS.

-Nanci L.

D
"The dishwasher itself was fine, but we had also ordered the installation service. They arrived at 7am on Saturday to do the installation. Within about 1-2 minutes," they tried to leave saying I didn't have the right plug and they'd have to reschedule the install. I asked them why it wasn't included in the installation kit and they told me they couldn't help since they don't work for (but some contractor). I then asked if I could leave for 10 minutes and buy whatever plug I was supposed to have (it only cost $5), they said no. As they were leaving, I asked them to please just walk me through how to get the plug off the old washer and on to the new. They said they'd try. That only took 1 minute. Not sure why they made an issue of it. I literally just took a screwdriver and switched it. Anyway, about 5 minutes later, they said they couldn't do the install because the pipe was blocking a nut they needed to access. After going back and forth for about 10 more minutes, they finally just left. They pushed the old washer back into place and it wouldn't close any more. So I had to run out and knock on their window for them to come in and fix that before they drove off. So we were without a working dishwasher and I accepted the delivery since I didn't want to wait another week or so for a few other hacks to come do the same thing. We ended up hiring a plumber ( & Sons) to come do the install. It cost me much more than the $79 was charging, but at least the job was done. The plumber from & Sons says this happens all the time. They sub the work out so we don't really have anyone to yell at. I had to call 4 times to get a refund on the install and then they rejected my review on their site. So, needless to say, I won't be using their install services again.

-Jonathan K.

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Angie's Answers

?
Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!
?

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 

 

Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450

 

We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 

 

Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

?
For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.
?

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.

 

?
You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
?
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Hardware Store reviews in Raleigh

A

Rating
and his staff were incredible!
Vintage Hardware and Shutters were recommended by our contractor and we are so glad that they were. We received multiple estimates and were given personal attention when we went to their showroom to look at options. The showroom had multiple shower configurations so we could see exactly what ...More it would look like when it was installed.
They provide an extremely accurate wait time for the install and called a week ahead to schedule the install. The staff made it easy to pay over the phone.
The installation crew was on time (8:00am sharp) and extremely professional!
Will recommend them to anyone who asks us!!!
- Sarah H.
B

Rating
Sales rep was knowledgeable, helpful, showed me a variety and explained the differences between them - primarily efficiency differences.
- Jo Anne F.
A

Rating
Purchased $10 gift card from for $5 from Angie's List. Card arrived in mail and wax honored at Home Improvement.
- Jane M.
A

Rating
It was a great experience from beginning to end. The people in the store were very nice, the manager worked to get the price down and the installers were very professional. It was a good experience.
- Mary B C.
A

Rating
I wanted to purchase a closet system, so I priced them at different stores & found Lowes to be competitive. I went to the store, & they had them in stock. It did take a bit to get someone to help me, but when he did, he was very professional & confirmed that my purchase was what I needed for the results I wanted. I was happy with my experience, ...More & the Big Deal from Angie's List & Lowes made my purchase a little less expensive, for which I am very grateful. I will definitely return to Lowes in the future.
- Victoria S.
D

Rating
First, it took a couple of weeks just to get the measurements taken, then they had to be taken again about a week after that. It's unclear why the same person came out to measure twice for a kitchen and bath remodel, but that's how it's done at . My remodel included new cabinets, granite countertop, tile flooring ...More etc. promised a turnkey operation for my convenience. What followed, in fact, were numerous unreturned email messages and phone calls, missed deadlines and broken promises of good and timely service. At one point I was told my design had to be pushed behind that of another customer who was getting cabinets in five rooms (in other words, a really important job compared with mine). Six weeks -- and many excuses -- after my first contact with the kitchen designer, she finally provided a complete design and estimate. Meantime I went to the store on the other side of Walnut Street and had a great experience, so today I just ordered from them. Needless to say, lost the to do business with me, except for the estimate, which I paid for before knowing any better.
- Karen L.
F

Rating
My dog has lost her front right leg. I went on a Saturday and they still examined her thoroughly. He seemed to know what he was doing. There is nothing negative about the visit, but, nothing could be done about my dog. My dog has several allergy issues and I wanted a seasoned doctor, but, didn?t consult a much experienced doctor. He was too young ...More for the practice and didn?t know much about the problem. He still gave some advice, which was good. I liked their services and will use the same in future.
- Stephen A.
A

Rating
We haven?t gotten a to use it much yet, but our last lawnmower was a Craftsman so we are sure to be pleased. The guy we spoke with really knew his product. He showed us how to get it started the first time and went through all of our questions. We were happy with his service and would use them again.
- Sandy P.

Hardware Stores in Raleigh

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1ST CLASS REMODELING & REPAIR

3115 Courtney Creek Blvd
Durham

84 LUMBER CO

6301 OLD WAKE FOREST RD
Raleigh

ACE HARDWARE

6196 FALLS NEUSE RD
Raleigh

ACE HARDWARE

2723 NC HIGHWAY 55
Cary

ACE HARDWARE

10930 RAVEN RIDGE RD
Raleigh

ACE TOWN & COUNTRY HARDWARE

2420 SW CARY PKWY
Cary

ACE TOWN & COUNTRY HARDWARE

8111 CREEDMOOR RD
Raleigh

ALAMANCE LUMBER CO

840 E WEBB AVE
Raleigh

AMERICAN TOOL SUPPLY

2300 Westinghouse Blvd Ste 101
Raleigh

AMERICAN WOODYARDS

5199 HILLSBOROUGH ST
Raleigh

ANDERSON HOMES

8891 THORNTON TOWN PL
Raleigh

ARMFIELD FLOORING CTR

6551 MERIDIAN DR
Raleigh

AYA KITCHENS & BATHS

6200 FALLS OF NEUSE RD
Raleigh

Blevins Building Supply - Galax

PO Box 2310
Smithfield

Bodum USA Inc

601 W 26th St

BRADCO SUPPLY CORP

1140 N NEW HOPE RD
Raleigh

Bragg Premier Home Improvements

65 Edgemont Ave
Roxboro

Brickhouse Security

980 Avenue of the Americas

Bryton Homes LLC

248 Magnolia Drive
Winterville

Burke Brothers Hardware

5227 Hillsborough ST
Raleigh

CAROLINA DECORATIVE PLUMBING

4601 TRADEMARK DR
Raleigh

CEMEX

3740 OVERLOOK RD
Raleigh

Commercial Openings

3904 Capital Blvd
Raleigh

CONTRACTOR YARD INC

2512 YONKERS RD
Raleigh

Country Boy Builders

3100 Edgetone Dr
Raleigh

CUSTOM BRICK CO INC

1613 OLD LOUISBURG RD
Raleigh

DD Painting Home Renovation

3021 Holston ln
Raleigh

Dr Wire

4716 Shadow Ridge Court
Holly Springs

DRS Custom Remodeling

451 Windy Bch
Sanford

GENERAL RENTAL

6925 OLD WAKE FOREST RD
Raleigh

GEXPRO

2101 Westinghouse Blvd Ste 104
Raleigh

Gnome Nest Nursery

5302 Old Chapel Hill Road
Durham

H D SUPPLY ELECTRICAL

2909 TRAWICK RD
Raleigh

Habitat for Humanity of Wake County ReStore

2420 North Raleigh Blvd
Raleigh

HANDY MAN HARDWARE

1103 NEW BERN AVE
Raleigh

Hang Time Tools

On line store

HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS USA INC

3302 CAPITAL BLVD
Raleigh

HOME DEPOT

4901 CAPITAL BLVD
Raleigh

Home Depot

9517 Strickland Rd
Raleigh

HOME DEPOT

2540 TIMBER DR
Garner

HOME DEPOT

11915 Retail Dr
Wake Forest

HOME DEPOT

2031 WALNUT ST
Cary

Home Depot - Apex

1000 Vision Dr
Apex

HUNT ELECTRIC SUPPLY CO

3308 ANVIL PL
Raleigh

IHRIE SUPPLY CO INC

1020 E WHITAKER MILL RD
Raleigh

Inspector Holmes

1500 Highland Brooke Way
Holly Springs

J E WOMBLE & SONS INC

805 W FRONT ST
Lillington

Kelly Window & Door Inc

111-B Woodwinds Industrial Ct
Cary

KING ROOFING & MFG CORP

157 CHARLOTTE AVE
Sanford

KIRKLAND'S HOME

5959 TRIANGLE TOWN BLVD
Raleigh

KIRKLAND'S HOME

8531 BRIER CREEK PKWY
Raleigh

Kitchen & Bath Galleries

8411 Glenwood Ave
Raleigh

Lee's Hardwood Floors Inc

966 Trinity Road
Raleigh

LINDA MILLER BUILDER SALES

6105 WAXHAW CT
Raleigh

LOWE'S

1575 US HWY 70 W
Garner

LOWE'S

4601 CAPITAL BLVD
Raleigh

LOWE'S

117 WILLIAM PENN PLZ
Durham

LOWE'S

4831 GROVE BARTON RD
Raleigh

Lowe's Of Apex

1101 Beaver Creek Commons Dr
Apex

LOWES

1801 FORDHAM BLVD
Chapel Hill

Lumber Liquidators

2011 Raleigh Blvd
Raleigh

MC CARTHY BUILDER SUPPLY CO

1250 Kirkland Rd Ste 103
Raleigh

MO & SAW SALES & SVC

2918 FIELD ST
Raleigh

MURRAY SUPPLY

2501 Atlantic Ave
Raleigh

NORTON'S TOOLS CORP

3809 FRAZIER DR
Raleigh

PEN STEEL INC

8408 SIX FORKS RD
Raleigh

PHOENIX JS INC

3800 TRYON RD
Raleigh

PLANTATION SHUTTER CO

3219 GLENWOOD AVE
Raleigh

PLUMB-RITE PLUMBING SPCLTS INC

1600 AUTOMOTIVE WAY
Raleigh

PRO-MOW EQUIPMENT SALES

4505 FAYETTEVILLE RD
Raleigh

QUALITY MARKETING

6216 ANGUS DR
Raleigh

RALEIGH CONTRACTOR SALES & SVC

7300 Hihenge Ct Apt 10
Raleigh

RALEIGH DECORATIVE HDWR & PLBG

2641 NOBLIN RD
Raleigh

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

REVERE BUILDING PRODUCTS

205 S Rogers Ln
Raleigh

RIGHT OF WAY EQUIPMENT

5500 HILLSBOROUGH ST
Raleigh

ROOFING SUPPLY

1424 S Bloodworth St
Raleigh

ROOFING TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

1210 CORPORATION PKWY
Raleigh

ROPER BROTHERS LUMBER

3401 GRESHAM LAKE RD
Raleigh

ROYAL PRESTIGE

1305 E MILLBROOK RD
Raleigh

S C GARRETT CO LLC

5880 Faringdon Pl
Raleigh

S T WOOTEN CORP

9001 FORTUNE WAY
Raleigh

S. H. BASNIGHT & SONS, Inc.

6909 Dodsons Crossroads
Hillsborough

SEABOARD ACE HARDWARE

802 SEMART DR
Raleigh

SHADETREE HOMES NC

8712 CHESLEY CT
Raleigh

Simpkins Construction Inc.

2517 Floyd Drive
Raleigh

SMITH HARDWARE & GARDEN

5300 1/2 HILLSBOROUGH ST
Raleigh

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

SPLASH GALLERIES INC

5060 TRADEMARK DR
Raleigh

Strickland Equipment Co

309 S Barnes St
Nashville

SUNROCK GROUP

8620 BAREFOOT INDUSTRIAL RD
Raleigh

The Home Depot - Hillsborough

625 Hampton Pt
Hillsborough

Thompson's Drywall And Home Improvement Co

6204 Lake Terrace Dr
Holly Springs

TRI TECK INC

3905 FORESTVILLE RD
Raleigh

Triangle Pharmacy & ACE Hardware

4711 Hope Valley Rd
Durham

UMIZORE CO

3120 HIGHWOODS BLVD
Raleigh

VECTOR MARKETING CORP

4900 WATERS EDGE DR
Raleigh

Vent and Cover

306-7337 137 st

VINTAGE SHUTTERS & HARDWARE

PO Box 1937
Garner

WAKE SUPPLY CO

658 MAYWOOD AVE
Raleigh

Wilkinson Supply Company

3300 Bush St.
Raleigh

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