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"The service went very well. They do excellent work. The most recent time I used the company the response time was a little longer but I did call after hours. They" called to let me know where the technician was and an estimated time of when they would be to my home. I really appreciated them keeping me posted. I called them out to repair the toilet and clear a blockage. I have used them 2-3 times. They have never disappointed me and always come out as soon as they can. They make sure to explain everything to me.

-Sharon B.

" did an excellent job for me. He was very careful not to track mud into the house. He explained every option available to me with great patience." His people skills are as good as his plumbing abilities. Anyone would be lucky to have him service their home.

-Nancy M.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.


If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.


Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.


As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.



Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Raleigh


F. was the technician. Couldn't be more pleased. He was experienced, professional, and diligent. Needed to rework the solution once he came to the house. He did so and I now have a beautiful pipe system under kitchen sink, if PVC can be beautiful. He was conscious of the debris and dirt caused and kept it to a minimum ...More and cleaned up after repair. His confidence and expertise helped me become confident. I would not hesitate to use ARS and would love for to always be the repair person.

- Richard T.

They have done quite a bit of us over time. They seem to be top-notch as far as courtesy and explaining things. They are extraordinarily expensive and guarantees ’t seem to do too much and there is always something you are going to get charged for. They project an image very well and wanting to do things right. They do ...More things exactly the right way but it may end up not fitting best with an old house which can end up being expensive again later. They are willing to make things right for the customers and are patient. They give you a wide time window for when you have to stay at home waiting for them but they are generally show in that time window.
- Pamela H.

It went well. I called ahead of time to see if they could do the work I needed done. They said it would cost me extra. Once they came to do the work they never charged for the extra costs.
- Erik B.

I purchased an angie's list coupon for $79 for $250 worth of plumbing labor. Our house is fairly old (built in 1952) and what should have been a fairly job turned into a giant mess - none of which was 's fault. Despite the horrible mess that occurred, handled things ...More better than I would have expected. They sent one guy out to work on the house, and he spent close to six hours working on snaking a sink and tub in one bathroom in our house. Previously, the tub drained slowly and the sink drained okay but occasionally made gurgling noises. Most of the plumbing in our house is old cast iron and I reckon it has a ton of buildup in the pipes because the bathroom was an awful mess after the first round of work was done.
Admittedly, the first guy really should have cleaned up the mess, but after six hours of working on what should have been at most a two-hour job, I reckon I can't fault him too much. A service manager called while the first guy was still there and apologized profusely saying they were unable to fix the problem and would send out another plumber the following day.
So a second plumber came out the next day ( ) and he was very nice and very professional. It was pretty obvious that he enjoys his job, and that made the whole experience significantly less unpleasant. spent several more hours working on the same sink and tub and apologized that the mess wasn't cleaned up from the previous day. The end result is that the tub drains well now, and the sink drains pretty slowly. Really the plumbing needs to be replaced, so it's totally not 's fault that they were unable to get both drains working properly.
Overall, spent something like 9 or 10 hours working at my house over two days. I paid $79 for the angie's list coupon, plus around $75 for some sink parts that broke during round 1 and a big jug of some pipe treatment. I was just about shocked that accepted responsibility for the work taking so long. Literally the invoice for round 2 read $0.01. was awesome, and I'm grateful for the professionalism shown by the service managers during the whole experience. I will be using them in the future - especially if I can request .
- Charles L.

We had a house full of extended family, and someone ran too many greens
through the garbage disposal, which clogged the main drain line. The
dishwasher was running at the time, and overflowed. Water was draining
through the floor into the basement. It was, suffice it to say, a
disaster. This happened around 8:30 PM. I called ...More , and
and arrived within an hour. The drain was snaked and
operating again an hour after that. Quick, courteous, and efficient. I
couldn't really ask for better service.
- Mark L.

My needs were not very demanding, but did an excellent job both times, and both times did not take long.
He had a gadget that looked like a big gun. He pumped it up, and then shot it into the drains. The gadget apparently sent high-pressure air through the pipes, and got the clogs moving.
- Russell M.

Did exactly as described, namely pumped and cleaned. Did it quickly and left little to no effluent on the ground (previous vendors have not been as careful with the odorous residue in the vacuum hoses) In fact, had I not watched what was involved I would not have known he actually did all that I describe as he went about his business quietly. Once finished ...More payment, via credit card, was easily made over the phone. We were more than satisfied with their service.

- Mary Ellen M.

was the plumber in this case. It was 6pm on a sunday when we realised the huge amount of damage done by a huge leak in the bathroom, and that the drains were backed up spewing fetid sewer water into every sink and out of the walls in the downstairs bathroom we had had demolished.
was literally the ...More only person in a 25 mile radius willing to come out and see us that night - not ARS or Roto Rooter, who apparently were too busy. He came, he looked around, and he completely unblocked the drain outside. He was quick, friendly, helpful and not pushy. It was expensive - but I'm not really a plumber and thus can't say what's cheap for blocking a huge drain blockage. He also knew what to do to stop it happening again - uproot the tree in the front to the roots.
But this isn't all he did. He looked at the damage and actually handed over a card AND called a restoration firm to get the damage fixed. He knew straight up that the damage was really bad and needed to be taken care of, had a place on file that would deal with my insurance, and actually called them himself to give them all the information they needed. Another story for another day, but they came the next day and are in the process of taking care of everything.
was professional and hardworking, and i signed up to JD's $80-or-so a year plan. Partly because with the 15% off it was actually $20 cheaper than the bill. Weird, right?
But seriously, great guy and great service, will be using them from now on.
- Ed Z.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Raleigh

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Ditch Plumbing

204 Fox Run Drive

3D Professional Services

4348 Karlbrook Ln

3G construction

1658 whites kennel rd

3rd Generation Plumbing

2201 Stonehenge Drive

5 Star General Services & Maintenance

3518 Mayfair Street

A & J Drain

PO Box 13
Holly Springs

A & L Plumbing & Piping

4528 Hillsborough Rd

A A Plumber Inc

209 Neuse River Pkwy

A H Plumbing

PO Box 1345

A Master of All Trades

302 Old Mill Village Dr


PO Box 665

ABC Plumbing Company, Inc.

PO Box 280

Acme Plumbing

636 Foster St

Acts Construction Inc.

P.O. Box 942
Holly Springs

Advance Pumps & Plumbing Inc

PO Box 1225


12108 Nada Road

Affordable Plumbing Co Inc

109 S 4th St
Spring Lake

After Hours Plumbing and Pump Service

2010 New Sharon Church Rd

All About Plumbing 4U NC

144 Burnt Branch Rd



All American Septic

3056 Emmitt Pond Rd

Arrowhead Repair Services

3149 Winding Waters Way

ARS / Rescue Rooter Raleigh

517 Pylon Dr

Artisan Plumbing LLC

Tryon rd


1585 Guy Rd

Bailey's Septic Tank Service

113 Neuse Harbor Dr

Barbour & Pourron Plumbing

114 Lee Court

Barker Property Maintenance Company

1401 Sunday Drive

Benitez Carpentry & Renovation Inc

110 Sandlewood Dr

Bill's Handyman Service

41 Christys Way

Bill's Hire-A-Hubby

4220 Old Graham Rd

Bill's Hire-A-Hubby

4220 Old Graham Rd

Bill's Plumbing

85 Papoo Dr

Bizzy Bee Plumbing Inc

1939 High House Rd



Bobby Davis Septic Tank Services

5835 Family Farm Rd

Bolton Construction and Service, LLC

1623 Old Louisburg Rd

Borges Construction Company LLC

8800 Midway West Road

Brad Johnson Plumbing

Tyonek Drive

Brian Yates Plumbing

5186 US 501 S
Chapel Hill

Brooks Handyman Services, LLC

404 Wolf View Dr

Brothers Maintenance Service

6206 Russell rd



CAM atlantic LLC

P O BOX 5303

Capital Plumbing Co

5625 Fixit Shop Rd
Wake Forest

Carolina Climate Control

347 Riverstone Dr

Carolina Fix-It, Inc.

303 Rose Court

Carolina Plumbing and Repair, Inc

1516 Buffaloe Road

Carolina Plumbing Co

719 Mattress Factory Rd

Carolina Plumbing Specialists

6121 Country Heritage Lane
Wake Forest

Cary Plumbing Co

226 E Cedar St

Cecil Davis Plumbing Co., Inc

2413 Paula St

Celey's Quality Services LLC

636-6b Old Roberts Rd

Choice Home Warranty

1090 King Georges Post Rd

CK's Plumbing & Backflow LLC

PO Box 10522

Clear Water Plumbing & Heating

110 Ramseur Rd.

Contract Plumbing of NC Inc

PO Box 1924
Fuquay Varina

Corasaniti Home Services

214 Rocky Lane

Daniel Plumbing

4405 Old Village Road

DC Handy Men

709 Carver St.

Dennis Plumbing Inc

9124 Hunters Green Drive.

Devlins Plumbing of NC,LLC

5441 Lumley Rd unit 104


3287 Cornwallis Rd

Dr Drain Plumbing

5209 Woods End Rd

E W Gladden Plumbing & Piping

4740 Old Hwy 75

Eagle Plumbing Inc

PO Box 146

Earl On Call A Handy Man Company

556 Brintle Rd

EAS Professional Painting

5213-107 Wynslow Park Drive

East Atlantic Plumbing

321 Yulan Dr

Enviro Air

3405 Banks Rd

Evolution Plumbing, Inc.

PO Box 1704

Expert Express Inc.

10853 Wilmore Drive

Exterior Improvements LLC

146 apple ct

Faison Plumbing Plus

2555 Capital Dr

Falls Plumbing

111 Keystone Dr


901 Willie Gray Rd

G. Wilkins Enterprise LLC

1030 Toad Hollow Lane

Garrison Plumbing

1200 Manco Dairy Road

Green Grove Landscaping & handyman services

140 bpw club rd apt d9

Green Horizon

4620 Industry Lane Suite C

Gregory Home Improvement

3514 East Geer St.

H B Inc.

2625 Hunters Meadow Lan.


P.O Box 1203

Halsey Handyman Service Inc.

4908 Hoyle Drive



Heritage Plumbing Company

7224 Shawan Rd

Hestand Associates, Inc.

PO Box 17128



Horizon Plumbing LLC

2206 Hopeton Ave

Hydro Dynamics,LLC

8134 Primanti Blvd

Hydro Dynamics,LLC

8134 Primanti Blvd

Hydro Dynamics,LLC

8134 Primanti Blvd

Imagine Construction

PO Box 30154

J C Johnson Plumbing & Septic Service

608 Cornerstone Ct

J R Lane Plumbing Co LLC

805 Sunnybrook Road

J&R Home Improvement and More

1421 E Broad Street Suite 241
Fuquay Varina


4724 Hargrove Road

Jayks LLC

1808 Angier Ave

JD Plumbing, Heating, & Air Conditioning

4416 Bennett Memorial Rd.

Jordan Plumbing and Piping LLC

2200 Dominion St

Just Josh Odd Jobs and Designs

7509 Idolbrook Ln

Justin Allen Plumbing

7345 Shady Stroll Lane
Willow Spring


PO BOX 51875

k&s plumbing llc.

2100 coley creek ct
Willow Spring

Kameron Property Services

528 Hillcrest dr

King's Plumbing

2533 Buckingham Dr

Knightdale Plumbing

7701 Knightdale Blvd



Legacy Plumbing Company

7416-C Chapel Hill Rd

Maintenance Men On Call

2201 Royal Birkdale

Metro Rooter Plumbing

355 S McDowell St

Metro Rooter Plumbing - Raleigh

621 St George Rd

Michael & Son

4001 Atlantic Ave

Modern Solutions

4922 Old Page Rd.

Moss' Plumbing

121 Deer Farm Lane
Willow Springs

Mr. Rooter Plumbing of Wake County

2001 Deep Forest Dr

My Favorite Plumber

7309 Hihenge Ct. Apt. #3

NC Master Plumber LLC

520 Carolina Ave
Willow Spring


1312-101 Kirkland Road

New Vision Renovations and Repairs

108 Amsterdam Dr

Okello's Services

808 Brigham Rd

One Call Plumbing

3525 Mossdale Ave



Pete's Plumbing

555 West Hargett Street

Pipetechs Plumbing

6600 Mt Herman Rd

Plumbing & Sewer Doctor


PlumbV Inc

805 Hidden Acres Ln
Chapel Hill

Poole's Plumbing

3708-101 Conquest Dr


P.O. Box 216

Progressive Service Co

110 Fortune Way

Project Services Inc

135 Clancy Cir

Pure Line Plumbing

2305 Orangewood Dr. Ste. 107

R & L water pump service

1545 appaloosa trail

Raleigh Odd Jobs Inc.

1103 Heritage Manor Dr

Raleigh Plumbing & Heating Inc

5060 Trademark Dr



Reddie Rooter

4811 Tapers Drive, Apartment H

Redworks Plumbing

3717 Baugh St


3613 Brentwood Rd

Robb Plumbing Inc

8117 Rhodes Rd

Roto Rooter

8830 Midway West Rd

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1700 Orr Industrial Ct

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

8820 Midway West Rd

Rural Plumbing & Heating Inc

701 E Six Forks Rd

S & A Construction Co

2820 Trawick Road

Sal's plumbing and drain

2212 Gresham Lake Rd

Sards Plumbing

2801 Margot's Ave
Wake Forest

Schwartz Plumbing Company

1129 Corporation Parkway

Scott Zimmerman Plumbing

7429 Saunders Rd
Willow Spring


103 Shady Ln

Smith Exterminating Company Inc

5507 Hillsborough St

Solutions Plumbing Service

125 Main St

Speedy Nelson

105 Rother Ln

SPG Plumbing

2659 Cedar Creek Rd

Starr Service Co

300 Sherwee Dr

Steven A Mills Plumbing

225 Dreamcatcher trl

Straight Flush Plumbing

978 Mitchell Rd

Streamline Plumbing & Electric Inc

6521 Mt Herman Rd

TCR Rooter & Plumbing LLC

5020 Departure Drive

TEBCO Maintenance

PO Box 21
Wilson's Mills

The Home Doctor

10121 Brokers Tip Lane

Total Construction by Dale Lands LLC

13376 US Hwy 70 Business West

Tri Pride Plumbing,LLC

7413 Six Forks Rd.

Triangle Emergency Plumbing

3305 Durham Dr.

Triangle Service Experts, Inc.

5929 Crepe Myrtle Ct

Turner Plumbing Service

PO Box 5244

VDH Plumbing

2421 Pleasant Union Church Rd

Wake Sewer & Drain Cleaning

121 W Morgan St



Whites Plumbing LLC

46 Fraizer rd

Willis Group NC

1318 Dale St.

Wood Termite & Pest Control, Inc.

1336 N Brightleaf Blvd

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