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A
"We had hired
to solve a sub-surface erosion problem around a driveway culvert, and asked them to look at our front sidewalk while they were" on site. They immediately recognized that the sidewalk in front of our front porch had sunk on one side where it met the front porch brick steps, allowing water to drain toward the house foundation and creating a dangerous rise to the first step of our porch stairs. Apparently this occurred because the foundation under the walk had been poorly prepared at the time the house was constructed about 27 years earlier. Since this was the condition of the walk when we bought the home 10 years ago, and the home inspector did not notice this or include it in his report, we did not realize it was not to code from a safety standpoint and assumed it had been constructed as we found it. We asked
for an opinion on correcting this problem and a cost estimate. They were very prompt in responding and explaining how their concrete raising process worked. We accepted their bid and they arrived on the scheduled morning, completing the work in just a few hours. We watched the procedure with fascination. They were able to precisely raise the right side of the walk (about 6 inches) without raising the left side and to tilt the walk to the proper pitch for correct drainage by carefully controlled pumping of fast-setting, high-density, liquid polyurethane under the walk through carefully positioned holes that they drilled through the walk. The sunken side of the walk was raised the height of two bricks to correct the rise of the first porch step, eliminating a serious safety hazard, one that would not have met codes at the time of construction. At the same time, the pitch of the walk was set to allow water to drain away from the house foundation. Water that had previously been moving into the crawl space during heavy storm events now drains away, resulting in a dry crawl space that previously had periodically high humidity and damp soil which we thought was coming from a different source. We had a number of home repairs completed at this time, but this one was perhaps the most satisfying because the result was and is apparent every time we leave or enter the house. We no longer have an awkward and unsafe step up or step down to enter or leave the house and do not have to worry that visitors might hurt themselves on the stairs. At the same time, our crawl space moisture problem has been solved.

-Patricia O.

A
"He saved me probably about $2,000.00 because instead of getting the concrete replaced, he just raised it because the front porch is sinking. They put rocks underneath" it and lift the concrete up instead of having to pour new concrete and tear it up. I'd give him all A's.

-Randy S.

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Concrete and asphalt are the most popular types of material for paving driveways. But each has its benefits and drawbacks.Whether you have a concrete or asphalt driveway, it’s important that you preserve its value with regular maintenance.

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A Provo homeowner says the landscape contractor did poor work, including installing a high-tech sprinkler system that doesn't work. A Salt Lake City concrete contractor ignores complaints about shoddy patio and porch work.

Angie's Answers

?

Bids are NOT done based on a multiplier on top of materials cost to get labor cost. Think of the consequences in the example you gave - by that method using say plain home depot tile made in Honduras might cost $5/SF materials, so by your method $10 labor. Now, same floor, with Carerra marble or Barre Granite at $75-100/SF - so do you want him charging you $150-200/SF labor when it takes almost exactly the same time regardless of material ?

To put it in simple terms, contractors:

1) figure the amount and cost of materials and consumables needed from the plans and specifications, applying a markup (from 15-50%, depending on contractor and how fancy or specialized a job it is).

2) Then they figure the equipment needed and the operating time to be used or elapsed time to be rented or leased - either opperating hour or elapsed time, or combination of both, especially if it consumes fuel

3) They then figure the labor time for the various trades required to do the job, maybe add an efficiency or ease of work multiplier to those hours to fit the job conditions, multiply those hours by the hourly pay rates, then multiply that times the "load" or "Labor Overhead" to account for employment taxes, workman's compensation costs, health plan, etc, etc.

4) Then they add in the cost of any architect or engineer plans or certifications that are needed, government permits and inspections, etc.

5) Then they add in any subcontractor bids, with appropriate contingency amount for each.

6) All those above totals are added up, an appropriate overall contingency added if needed (typically 5-10%, but on remote site jobs I have seen as high as 200%), and (depending on how contractor figures his costs) at least all the "in-house" costs like his equipment, consumables, and labor costs have a percentage overhead and profit added to them - typically about 100-150%. Some contractors use a lower overhead percentage but apply it to the total estimated job cost, not just in-house costs.

This "company overhead" or "general overhead" or "G&A - General and Administrative Overhead" covers the costs of financing and running the company, management and secretarial and general supply and maintenance costs, buildings and equipment yards lease or mortgage cost, working capital cost, insurance, loan interest, general shop equipment payments, profit, etc. Some contractors use a lower overhead and apply it to every cost in the job, some (especially those doing government work so havingto adhere to government accounting rules) apply a "markup percentage" to materials and rental costs and outside subcontract services, and apply G&A overhead only to in-house costs.

 

That being said, for a general class of work it does generally (on normal jobs) work out that there is a general multiple of labor to materials cost. For instance, yard work and residential tree work is heavy on labor, so it might have a labor to materials ratio of 3:1 or even 5:1.  Detail foundation hand excavation and underpinning can run to 5:1 or more. Many types of building construction like plumbing, tile, carpentry, etc. do end up with a very roughly 2:1 or 3:1 ratio of labor to materials cost. At the other extreme, high energy efficiency or hurricane rated glass installation or a fancy full-building computer and communications system or high-end entertainment center might have a labor to materials ratio of 0.25-0.5 because it is designed to go in pretty fast, but the materials cost a lot.

For your case, a hardscaping ratio could run from 0.5:1 or less to as much as 3:1 or more, for installations with very expensive imported stone and fancy woods and a lot of bought decorative items such as statuary, to the opposite labor-intensive landscaping with lots of sidehill terracing and hand-planted flower beds, hand-dug irrigation system trenches, and manual-placed concrete block or railroad tie walls. Each job should be figured on its own merits - using a "rule-of-thumb" is where people commonly get unpleasantly surprised. That is why you typically get 3 bids unless you have a contractor you trust from prior experience and are confident will give you a fair shake regardless of being sole-sourced. Personally, both for my own purposes and professionally in the design and construction business, I have found sole-source to trusted contractors you have experience with is, in the long run, a BIG money and time saver, as well as making it far more likely to finish on schedule and let you sleep at night.

?

You need a general contractor - prefereably one who specializes in additions, because you have excavation, waterproofing, concrete, concrete cutting, carpentry, door and window, etc trades to coordinate.

The cost will depend a great deal on your topography around the house - if the base of the window will be above ground level at least 6 inches, then could run about $500 for a legal egress window purchase and about $1000-2000 for installation, depending on how deep into the concrete you have to cut.

If the bottom of the window will be below ground level, then to call it a bedroom (which mandates legal sized second egress and usauully at least one window)  then you will have two choices - bring it out into a solid watertight concrete storm cellar with collar to keep water out, stairs, and and weather and bug-tight cellar door that is inward-opening, which means a lot of space for stairs and landings top and bottom, or bring it out into an oversized window well at least 36 inches in diameter, and with steps to ground level, with adequate drainage and waterproofing to keep it dry. Either way, sometimes about as easy to put in an outside door as a window, and might raise property value more. Cost from $2-5,000 depending on how deep into concrete wall you have to dig, whether concrete wsall needs reinforcing with steel frame because of the depth of cut, how easy the digging is, and what your water conditions are near the foundation. The last thing you want to do is create an easy water or vermin ingress with your egress.

?

The cost to install the veneer stone has a wide range do to many factors. It can range from around $9 to $17 per square foot. It depends on the location, the stone being used, job access, skaffolding needs, wall prep and such. I would think you would be on the lower end of the scale. Your job is on a concrete surface so it eliminates one of the biggest problems they are having with this product, wall preperation. This one of the things that separates the high bidders from the low ones. There are million dollars homes being torn down because of improper wall prep. One a wood frame house a backing system that allows drainage is a must or the moisture absorbed by the veneer can rot the walls behind with alarming speed. Some have had makor damage within the first four years. On a concrete wall the veneer needs no such prep at most wire mesh applied if it is an older concrete wall.

 

Don

?

Is the wall that the garage is sloped toward and adjacent wall of the home?

 

If not, it should not be of real concern. 

 

Try to keep the water out of the garage with a gasket on the door. 

 

 

?

If the state requires a contractor's license, then he needs to have a license in each state he intends to work in - plus state/local business licenses as applicable.

 

This does not mean there are not a lot of contractors who cross state lines without proper licensing - the penalties in may cases are not real severe and are just a fine, not criminal, so many take the chance.

 

As you say - argh  - many contractors are not really businessmen and have zero legal education, so many people get burned.

?

Mudjacking reviews in Raleigh

A

Rating
Very good from the start Serguei and
Raleigh Foundation Contractors Provider Name Locked
were very responsive on the initial inquiry, came over for a quote and provided a fair price all before the other two providers I looked at had even responded to my inquiry. First class job and service. I would recommend them any day of the week and twice on Sunday.
- Thomas H.
A

Rating
Background: Following a foundation leak and water in our crawl space, we had the foundation and drain repaired. As the crawl space dried out, the house settled (as we were told to expect), creating drywall cracks and crooked door jambs (doors that wouldn't close). After hiring a structural engineer (
Raleigh Foundation Contractors Provider Name Locked
) to recommend the best course of action, we met with several contractors to carry out the recommendations. Mr.
Raleigh Foundation Contractors Provider Name Locked
gave an estimate that was a range, based on the actual work that would be done (which they would know only as the work was being completed). Even the upper end of the range seemed fair, so he was hired. The team was prompt and professional. The work took less than a day, the problems were solved, and the final price came in at the low end of the range. Mr.
Raleigh Foundation Contractors Provider Name Locked
impressed us as honest, hard-working, and very knowledgeable regarding this work.
- SHELLEY H.
A

Rating
Raleigh Foundation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came out at the scheduled time to evaluate the situation and provide an estimate. Since it was a relatively small job,
Raleigh Foundation Contractors Provider Name Locked
said that he would have to work the job in with other jobs on his schedule. Although I was a bit unhappy with this approach, it turned out to be fine. His crew came out twice - 1st time to raise/level the joists on the existing piers and pour the new pier. Second time to adjust/level the new pier. All work was completed within a month of the initial estimate (which was my request to
Raleigh Foundation Contractors Provider Name Locked
).
- Larry H.
A

Rating
It took about one half of a day to complete.
They were punctual, professional and quite courteous throughout the entire process.
If I had remained in
Raleigh Foundation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, I would have used them again no questions asked.
- John T.

All Foundation Contractors in Raleigh, NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

5 Star General Services & Maintenance

3518 Mayfair Street
Durham

A TO Z CONCRETE

3312 STONEY CREEK DR
Clayton

A+ Tree and Crane Services Inc

PO Box 10486
Raleigh

Active Building Corporation

3508 Constellation dr
Raleigh

Atlantic Foundation & Repair

1455 Mechanical Blvd
Garner

Brookins Construction

5521 erinvale ct
Holly Springs

Bryton Homes LLC

248 magnolia drive

C & S CONTRACTING INC

4605 TREADSTONE CT
Raleigh

CONCRETE CONSTRUCTION

3939 WAKE FOREST RD. #244
Raleigh

Concrete Designs Inc

3101 Willow Creek dr
Wake Forest

Concrete Jack

3402 Acorn St

Concrete Raising of NC

2704 Homestead Forest Rd
Zebulon

D&S Masonry Inc

5882 Dixie Highway

DOUGLAS CONTRACTING

2405 Andor Pl
Raleigh

EAS Professional Painting

5213-107 Wynslow Park Drive
Raleigh

elite concrete and driveway

1217 Wellington drive
Cary

ExactJack Inc.

8609 Averell Ct.
Raleigh

F. A. Ray

PO Box 3761
Cary

Fails Safe Construction

1008 Schaub Dr
Raleigh

Falcone Crawl Space & Structural Repair

1883 Scott Futrell Dr
Charlotte

Fidias Construction

2409 Holiday Dr
Raleigh

International Concrete

105 old grove ln
Apex

J&B Concrete Co

2524 Newbold St
Raleigh

Jbo Construction

Holly Springs

ld williams concrete

3113 e garner rd

MAINTENANCE MORE

2664 Timber Dr
Garner

Montalto Home Improvements And Repair

4502 Stonewall Dr
Raleigh

New Carolina Concrete Constructors, Inc.

3128 East Geer St., Suite B
Durham

Pinter Construction & Development

11709 Appaloosa Run E
Raleigh

RAINBOW PAINT CO

1432 Joyce Dr
Greenville

Ram Jack Foundation Solutions

4122 Bennett Memorial Rd
Durham

REAL ESTATE SERVICE TEAM

2401 BRENTWOOD RD
Raleigh

Riddle Residential Construction

246 Charles Riddle Rd.
Sanford

RSB & Co

2032 Hayes Rd
Creedmoor

Smith Concrete

1405 OLD MAPLE DR
Raleigh

Specialty Home Improvement, Inc

201 Fair Glen Rd
Holly Springs

SUPERIOR FOUNDATION SYSTEMS

104 FOX WALK PATH
Garner

Swicegood's Handyman Service

808 Willowedge Court
Knightdale

TERRATEC INC

1350 METHODIST PARK RD

Tieman Contracting

119 Willowcroft Ct
Garner

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