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A
"They responded quickly and got me into their schedule quickly. Showed up promptly, explained the cause of the problem, and replaced the faulty switch. Also explained" how the switch might have become faulty and possible prevention. The $200 charge for a service visit seemed a bit steep to me, but on the other hand it's been several years since I've had to call in an electrician so I can't be sure. Very pleased with the prompt, courteous, professional service.

-Neil B.

A
" is the only electrician I'll ever use. I had multiple bids on some large projects on a newly purchased fixer upper and his was the most" reasonable bid by far. He has been extremely flexible on when he can do the work, is knowledgeable and is a pleasure to deal with. We hired him for small projects, from installing fans to bringing electricity to the garage. He is now working on our kitchen project. I needed a last minute wiring job done before the kitchen got started and he was kind enough to accommodate me, even with short notice. After our multiple encounters, I have come to trust his recommendations and feel confident I am getting quality work at a fair price. I don't plan on looking elsewhere should I need more work done in the future. Can't recommend enough.

-Sebastian R.

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Local Articles in Providence

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Electricians

Electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person.

Burnt outlet

Electrical Troubleshooting

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you're experiencing issues.

two gray electric panels side by side (Photo by Eldon Lindsay)

Ever wonder why your arc-fault breaker trips randomly? An electrician explains how arc-fault circuit interrupters work and what causes AFCI nuisance tripping.

Plumbing pipes

Some projects require a licensed contractor to ensure they are completed safely and properly.

Follow the rules or risk paying the price – that’s especially true when planning a home improvement project – big or small. You want to be certain all the work being done on your home is up to code. If you don’t, it could cost you.

drywall application

Think you can bypass the permit process when it's time to remodel?

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Providence

A

Rating
responded quickly to my request for an appointment to get an estimate, and he showed up at the scheduled time to take a look at the knob and tube, as well as some other small electrical issues that I was having. I found him to be knowledgable, professional and easy to talk to on this initial visit. He had an estimate to me ...More within two days (a quite reasonable one given the amount of work and potential problems that he could encounter once the work began), and then worked around my complicated schedule to find a time that worked for both of us to complete the work.
On the days we had scheduled, he and his colleague showed up on time and worked hard and behaved professionally. They checked in with me before making any extra holes in my ceiling, problem solved efficiently and effectively with each new problem they encountered once they accessed the wiring, and took extra time to be sure that they returned my furniture to its original location and that my floors were swept and everything was tidy before leaving. The work was completed in the time that had estimated, and the price he charged me was exactly what he had estimated as well, in spite of the unexpected challenges of the job.
I felt comfortable asking and his colleague questions, and they both took the time to explain things to me fully. It was an overall great experience working with .
I will hire in the future if/when I need electrical work, and I will recommend them to my friends.
- Moira C.
F

Rating
On the day of my scheduled appointment, no one showed up during the window of time I was given. I waited thirty more minutes and then called the provider. The person I spoke with was unsure of how this happened, but apparently none of the electricians were given my appointment on their call sheets (though my appointment had been scheduled well in ...More advance). Two electricians arrived @30 minutes after that and performed the inspection of the knob and time wiring. Once they determined that it was live, I asked for an estimate to have it removed. They told me that they would have the office prepare one and get back to me. That was on May 12.
The reason I need to have the wiring removed is because I am planning to have spray insulation put in as part of a home energy cost reduction plan. I cannot move forward with that work until the knob and tube is disconnected, as it would create a fire hazard. At the start of , RISE contacted me about the fact that I hadn't yet returned my contract to have the insulation work done, and I was reminded about the fact that I had never received my estimate. I left a message at S& didn't receive a call back, so I sent an email on 10. I received a reply on 13 saying that they would check with the estimator and get back to me. They didn't. I emailed again on 8/5 and as of today (8/11) have not yet received a response.
I was prepared to hire S&S to take care of the knob and tube wiring (a rather pricey job), but they have now lost out on my business. Meanwhile, I have missed out on some additional discounts through RISE for the weatherization work that I need done, as those special discounts expired at the end of .
- Moira C.
A

Rating
answered the phone right away which was great, nowadays all you get is a message machine! I told him we were without power in our bedroom and living room. He came in between jobs ( I didn't expect that) on the same day I called. He even came even earlier than he said he could. was very polite ...More ,very knowledgeable, and totally professional!!! I would recommend to everyone ! We will be using them in the future and that's for sure!!!!! didn't mind running up and down three flights of stairs
- Sandra Z.
A

Rating
I contact the provider, outlined the problem and asked for a house call to check out the problem with my kitchen lights. He indicated a willingness to help me and said he would try to work my job in at the end of his day and if necessary would come on a Saturday. By the next week he was calling to set up a time, faster than I thought possible. He arrived ...More and got to work checking out the problem and soon had a solution. He had said the minimum charge of a call was $200 but he only charged $150 given the fact that he quickly got the lights working.
In reading about I was impressed that it ws a family run business with superior ratings. I couldn't be happier with every aspect of the experience.
- Philip R.
A

Rating
This job ran through the fall and winter because of all the work other
trades people had to do. In addition to the quality work, and his
crew were very responsive to the uneven scheduling he had to work
around.
- Harry F.
A

Rating
I took out a home repair loan through Island Housing and they require tons of paperwork. I'm doing a bunch of work at my house so responsiveness has been of great importance when working with 7 different contractors. I reached out to for a quote and he was able to come out to the house to checkout ...More what needed to be done. He provided a quote in a few days and was always available via text to answer any questions. He provided all the necessary paperwork pretty quickly to do the work before 6/6 as I was having a ductless system installed and needed the upgraded panel before that was done. The day of the job, was able to provide an extension cord to provide power to keep the internet on as I was working from home that day. They completed the work efficiently and were very professional. They showed me the old meter which was pretty rusted and fried and could of caused a fire. I'm happy the job was completed right. I would definitely use them again for electrical needs.
- Cindy U.
A

Rating
was great.. Accommodating, professional and knowledgeable. Helped us out in a pinch and would definitely use his company again. Work performed very neatly and in line with original estimate.
- Patrick H.
A

Rating
The inspection was thorough and the work was performed quickly,efficiently and very neatly. We were very happy with the quality of the work and have hired them to come back and remove the old wiring from our attic.
- Lauren T.

Electricians in Providence

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

2 Sons Electric

181 Martin St
East Providence

2nd Generation Remodeling

128 Colonial Ave
Cumberland

A & I Electric

135 Palm St
Pawtucket

A & R Electric

Chepachet

A 2 Z Tech Services

81 John Street

A Electrical Contractors

65 Tweed St
Pawtucket

A Electrical Contractors

65 Tweed St
Pawtucket

A ONE SOLUTIONS

9 PLYMOUTH RD
East Providence

A PLUS AUTO SERVICE,INC.

899 Pontiac Ave
Cranston

A&J Electric

83 Douglas Street
Cranston

A-Z Handyman

1896 West Shore Rd
Warwick

Able Electric

East Greenwich

Able Electric, Inc.

879 Main Ave
Warwick

Accu Electric, LLC

176 Montgomery Ave.
Cranston

Ace Electric Inc.

498 Broadway
Providence

Acme Electric Inc

1800 Mineral Spring Ave
Providence

ADVANCED FIRE TECHNOLOGIES

4 EAST ST
Providence

Advanced Property Solutions, LLC

109 Pine Hill Ave
Johnston

ADVANTAGE SEWING & VAC CTR

543 BRANCH AVE
Providence

Airhart Electric, Inc.

595 Read School House Road
Coventry

AJC Electric

35 Normandy Drive
Cranston

AL'S ELECTRIC

184 OBED AVE
Providence

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All Out Electric/Generac Dealer

239 Greenville Ave.
Johnston

Allstar Team Construction

44 Vallone Rd
Cranston

Almada Electric

81 Blanding Avenue
East Providence

ALPINE ELECTRIC

151 DOUGLAS AVE
Providence

AMC Computer Corp

337 Tinkham St.

AMC Fire Alarms

27 french st

ANTONIO'S ELECTRIC COMPANY

201 Sutton Ave.
East Providence

Apollo Safety. Inc.

57 Walnut Street

AR Construction

94 ortoleva dr
Providence

Archadeck of West Rhode Island

47 Wood River Ln
West Greenwich

Astro Electric

27 Stockton Drive
Middletown

At Your Service

70 Frenchtown Rd. Suite 325
North Kingstown

AURORA ELECTRIC INC

148 SUMMIT ST
East Providence

Azverde Electric Co.

31 Sleepy Hollow Drive
Cumberland

B Baptista Electric Inc.

79 Ralco Way
Cumberland

Bashaw Electric

164 Kimball St
Providence

Belcher Electric

55 Hawthorn Circle
Woonsocket

BEST VACUUM REPAIR

164 PARK AVE
Providence

BNB Electric

571 Broad Rock Road

Brassard Construction, Inc.

70 Bucklin Street
Pawtucket

Briggs Mechanical Inc

149 Chestnut St

BRODEUR & SONS INC

16 HARVEST RD
Warwick

C & K ELECTRIC CO

166 DOYLE AVE
Providence

Call Chris

111 Briarwood Dr

Calyx Homes Ltd

21 Spring Green Rd
Lincoln

CASALE ELECTRIC

94 N WASHINGTON ST

case electric

214 chace ave

Cassana HVAC LLC

29 Lambert St
Cranston

Ciotti & Sons Home Improvement, LLC

7 Lydia Ave.
North Providence

Clean Care of New England

850 Wellington Avenue
Cranston

CLEM'S ELECTRIC CO INC

11 BROADCOMMON RD
Bristol

coastal electric

64 Halsey St
Newport

CONCORD ELECTRIC

185 SWAN ST
Providence

CORNWELL ELECTRIC

PO BOX 40385
Providence

Cotoia Electric

4 milburn st

D G ELECTRIC

35 SEABROOK DR
East Providence

DAVE VENANCIO ELECTRIC

43 ROBIN DR
Tiverton

David Charron Electric

5 Massasoit Dr.

DELLI ELECTRIC CORP

21 LORI DR
North Providence

DEXTER ELECTRIC

70 WATERMAN AVE
East Providence

Dimery Electrical

10 King Philip Ave
Barrington

DP Electric Inc

193 Elm Street

DS Electrical

9 Delway Road
Cranston

DYKEMAN ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

65 DEXTER RD
East Providence

E G Electric

65 Huling Ln
East Greenwich

E P ELECTRIC

95 COMMERCIAL WAY
Providence

E V ELECTRONICS

204 MANTON AVE
Providence

E W AUDET & SONS INC

169 BAY ST
Providence

East Side Construction

21 Dexter Road
East Providence

EAST SIDE ELECTRIC CO

84 MEADOW RD
Providence

EASTERN ELECTRIC CONSTRUCTION

530 WELLINGTON AVE
Cranston

Eastern Tool Repair Center

421 Hartford Ave
Providence

EDDY BUILDING CO

PO Box 241
Barrington

ELECTRIC BRADY

140 LEXINGTON AVE
Providence

ELECTRICAL SURPLUS LLC

725 BRANCH AVE
Providence

Electrical Upgrade

21 River St
Cranston

Electricians R Us

297 Columbus Ave
Pawtucket

ELECTRO INDUSTRIES

31 GEM ST
Providence

ENERGY SOURCE

536 ATWELLS AVE
Providence

ESHI Builders

410A E Main Rd.
Middletown

Essence Construction

807 Broad Street
Providence

Faith Builders Construction

46 west shore drive
Exeter

farland electric inc.

400 putnam pike
Smithfield

FERREIRA ELECTRIC INC

86 WASHINGTON ST
Bristol

FOREMOST ELECTRIC SVC INC

157 OCEAN AVE
Providence

FOSTER & SONS

1480 HIGH HAWK RD
East Greenwich

Foster Electric, Inc.

14D Stafford Road
Tiverton

FullTec Consultants

Commonwealth Ave

GARCIA HOME IMPROVEMENT

18 BLACKSTONE AVE
Pawtucket

GATTA ELECTRIC LLC

400 RESERVOIR AVE LLJ
Providence

Gem Plumbing & Heating

1 Wellington Rd
Lincoln

GOLDSTEIN ELECTRIC CORP

84 MEADOW RD
Providence

GRAYBAR ELECTRIC CO

245 NIANTIC AVE
Providence

Greenville Kitchens & Baths

41 Cedar Swamp Rd
Smithfield

GRID CORP

17 DEXTER RD
East Providence

H & R ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR

69 W GREENVILLE RD
Greenville

H & R ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR

222 WILLIAMS ST
Providence

H.S. REMODELING, LLC

7 Remington Farm Drive
Coventry

Handy-Woman

146 Prospect St. #3
Providence

HandyMan Solutions

71 lindsey lane

HART ENGINEERING CORP

21 ERNEST ST
Providence

HB CONTROLS

221 WEAVER ST

Helping Hand Handyman

49 Hancock St.
Tiverton

Herb Travis Handyman Services

83 Lexington Ave
Providence

Home Depot

387 Charles St
Providence

HOME DEPOT

80 UNIVERSAL BLVD
Warwick

HOME DEPOT

95 HIGHLAND AVE

HOZCORP ELECTRIC

61 HIGH SERVICE AVE
North Providence

HUTCHINS ELECTRIC CORP

3399 S COUNTY TRL
East Greenwich

IMONDI APPLIANCE SALES & SVC

16 BENJAMIN DR
Providence

IN CONTROL INC

1 HARRY ST
Providence

J C ELECTRIC

95 HATHAWAY ST
Providence

J H LYNCH & SONS INC

835 TAUNTON AVE
East Providence

J J MC NAMARA & SON INC

215 NIANTIC AVE
Providence

J J MCNAMARA & SON INC

215 Niantic Ave
Providence

J.D. Edwards

196B Chapel Street
Lincoln

JAY'S ELECTRIC

124 WEBSTER AVE
Providence

JD Electric

48 rowe Drive
Cranston

JJ Furtado Construction

14 Ludlow Rd
Middletown

JJL Electric LLC

26 Forest St
Providence

Joe Truppi

39 Hervey Street
Cranston

JOHN'S HOME REPAIRS

126 JULIA ST
Cranston

K D Electric

18 Terrace Ave
Pawtucket

KENNY'S ELECTRIC

19 VALE ST
Providence

Kent County Electrical Services

1081 WEST SHORE ROAD
Warwick

KENTRON INC

50 KENNEDY PLZ
Providence

KIR CONSTRUCTION & REMODELING INC.

103 WEBSTER ST
Pawtucket

KMJ ELECTRIC & CONSTRUCTION

6 CLEAR MEADOW DR
North Providence

KOREL CONTROLS INC

1 HARRY ST
Providence

LA Electric

110 Massachusetts St
Cranston

LAIN ELECTRIC CO

260 W EXCHANGE ST
Providence

LAURIENZO ENGINEERING ASSOC

5 MINNESOTA AVE
Warwick

LDB MANUFACTURING, INC.

2380 Plainfield Pike
Cranston

Lincoln Homes - Residential Contractor

1119 North Main Street
Providence

Lmb construction

Po box 27479
Providence

LMN Home Improvement

8 Bicentennial Way
North Providence

Lowes

19 Dowling Village Blvd
North Smithfield

Lux Renovations LLC

60 Shawmut Rd

M & L POWER SVC INC

10 Dorrance St Ste 1200
Providence

M & M Contracting

29 Russell Drive
North Kingstown

M J REMODELING ETC

30 MANCHESTER ST
West Warwick

mahoneys magic

735 Willett Ave
Riverside

Mallozzi Electric

339 George Waterman Rd
Johnston

Marcaccio Electric LLC

50 Gardner Ave
North Providence

Mark Brochu

123 Old River Road
Lincoln

MASSED ELECTRIC CO

44 EVERETT ST
Warren

Master Electrician

34 lake Harmony Ave.
Glocester

MBL Enterprises Inc.

250 Lexington Ave
Providence

McDonough Electric LLC

8 Robinson Way
West Warwick

McShane Home Improvements Inc

11 farnum st
Pawtucket

Meyer Electric

144 Candlewood Dr
North Kingstowne

MICHAEL SANTURRI

Providence

mikes electronics

242 Walnut St

Miller Electric Corp

18 Longbow Dr
West Warwick

Mr Fix It

966 Narragansett Blvd
Providence

Mr Fix-It ~ Handyman Extraordinaire

395 Maple Ave
Barrington

MRC Electric

169 Mac Arthur Rd
Woonsocket

MULTI-STATE ELECTRIC CO

36 OXFORD ST
Providence

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

NORTHEAST ELECTRICAL DISTRS

50 NIANTIC AVE
Providence

Northeastern Remodeling

1 Edith St
Cumberland

Northern Lights Painting

14 Robin Dr
Exeter

O'DOWD ELECTRIC

48 Deerfield drive
Warwick

OCEAN STATE PROPERTY SERVICES

542 RIVER AVE
Providence

OLD-HOUSE TRADESMEN'S COOPERATIVE

207 MORRIS AVE
Providence

ON STATE ELECTRICAL INC

11 MANCHESTER FARM RD
Providence

On the Money General Contracting

140 Paradis Ave
Woonsocket

Padilla Construction

132 Hendricks St
Central Falls

Parisi Electric

112 Hazard Ave
Warwick

PARKSIDE UTILITY CONSTRUCTION

123 King Philip St
Providence

PELUSO POWER SVC

9 CRANBERRY RD
North Providence

Pete's Electric

252 Rosemont Ave.
Johnston

Phoenix Custom Construction

128 Gansett Avenue
Cranston

PIEZO SWITCH DEVELOPMENT INC

25 RESERVOIR AVE
Providence

POSITIVE ENERGY ELECTRIC INC

4 Kimball Ave
Johnston

POTVIN ELECTRIC INC

21 CRESANT DR
Providence

Power Trip Electric

34 Rise N Sun Dr
Hope

PRIME ELECTRIC INC

11 ALDEN ST
Providence

Pristine Construction

22 Hillside Ave

PRO-CIRCUIT ELECTRIC LLC

72 HAWTHORNE PLACE
Providence

PROCESS ENGINEERS

165 MILL ST
Providence

PROFESSIONAL ELECTRICAL CONTR

1040 MINERAL SPRING AVE
Providence

R C SMITH ELECTRIC

84 PEACOCK RD
Warwick

R I ELECTRIC PROTECTIVE CO

1 LA SALLE SQ
Providence

R.I. State Restoration

117 Gleaner Chapel Rd
North Scituate

RAYCO ELECTRIC CORP

14 DAISY ST
Providence

RAYMOND ELECTRIC CORP

50 MANNING ST
North Providence

RFC ELECTRIC INC

25 N ELMORE AVE
North Providence

RI Properties, LLC

27 Greenwich St.
Providence

RI Property Management

331B Killingly St
Providence

RightWay Electric

756 Eddy St
Providence

ROBERT'S HOME IMPROVEMENT

16 SEFTON DR
Providence

Rollins Electric Inc.

147 Carnation St
Woonsocket

ROUTE 5 AUTO REPAIR

42 SANDERSON RD
Smithfield

Royal Construction Company Inc.

103 DePinedo St
Providence

RWL General Contractors

61 Arland Dr
Pawtucket

RYCOR SERVICES INC

154 WARREN AVE
East Providence

S & P ELECTRIC INC

191 GALLATIN ST
Providence

S & R ELECTRIC CO

185 NARRAGANSETT AVE
Providence

S & S ELECTRIC

844 Putnam Pike
Chepachet

SANTORO'S CARPENTRY

39 HORTON ST
Providence

SARRA ENGINEERING CO

1 HARRY ST
Providence

SBM

120 CORLISS ST
Providence

SIMONSAYZFIXIT,INC

112 MOORE ST
Providence

SITE SPECIFIC LLC

200 ALLENS AVE
Providence

SJV ELECTRIC INC

86 S Brow St
East Providence

Soares Electric

42 Blueberry Drive

Sonlight Home Repair Services

36 Canton St
Providence

SonZie Construction

lyon ave
East Providence

South Shore Electrical Contractors, LLC

41 School Street
Wakefield

STATEWIDE PLUMBING & HEATING CO INC

160 NORTH VIEW AVE
Cranston

Superior Contracting, Inc.

P. O. Box 262
Greenville

Thibault Electric

106 Gardners Neck Rd

Thompson Properties

PO Box 657
Barrington

TPF electrical services

20 Benjamin St
Pawtucket

Turf Master Inc

1703 Plainfield Pike
Johnston

Uncle Wayne's

43 Houghton Street
Barrington

universal insulation

28 desoto st
Providence

VALLEY ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT

1 Park Row Ste 300
Providence

VENCO ELECTRIC LLC

PO Box 8953
Cranston

Veteran Contractors

73 Prospect St
Cumberland

VOICE NETWORK COMMUNICATIONS

186 CAMP ST
Providence

W ARTESANI & SONS

1704 BROAD ST
Providence

WADDINGTON ELECTRONICS INC

25 WEBB ST
Providence

WALCO ELECTRIC CO

303 ALLENS AVE
Providence

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Wave Technologies

11 South Angell Street #373
Providence

WAYNE'S SERVICE PLUS

269 SILVER SPRINGS ST
Providence

Wickford Appliance & Lighting

207 Newport Avenue
Pawtucket

Zap's Electrical

North Scituate

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