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Over 445 reviews for
Portland Lawn Mower Repair Shops from people just like you.

"We wanted someone who would come and service our power tools...lawn mower, power washer, blower, etc. at our home. It is such a hassle to load everything in a car" and haul it off and then not have it for two weeks. Vinny came to our home within 48 hours of our call and serviced our items in our garage. He was prompt, clean and tidy and the cost was well work the price compared to having to load items in the back of one of our cars and take it to a service shop,

-Winnie M.

"I was having difficulty starting my lawn mower and called around to various repair shops to get a quote as to what they would charge for a tune up. The prices ranged" from $135.00 to close to $200.00, with the quickest turn-around time 2 weeks. I checked Angie's List and called . I explained the problem I was having and the model of the mower. He said he could fix it for $50.00. I asked how long it would take to get the mower back. He asked when I could get it to him. I told him immediately and he said he could fix it and have it ready by the next day. I delivered it to him that afternoon. called me after I dropped the mower off and informed me that one of the front wheels on the self propelled mower was broken. He said he could fix it for me and would only charge me the price of the wheel. I picked the mower up a couple of days later and have nothing but accolades for the job did. In addition to fixing the starting problem he also fixed the front wheel, sharpened the mower blade and cleaned it up to look like new. The total price he charged me was less than $70.00. The mower runs like new and you can bet that any future problems I have with my lawn mower or other small mechanical tool I will definitely call for a quote. He was polite, professional and prompt. I would definitely use his services again.

-Robert H.

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Local Articles in Portland

lawn mower

Lawn Mower Repair and Maintenance

The average suburban lawn mower is a true workhorse, but you might not be maintaining it as well as you should. Here are some practical tips on troubleshooting common problems, how to make some lawn mower repairs yourself and how to maintain your mower so it keeps performing well year after year.

push lawnmower

Keep your push mower, riding mower, reel mower, weed trimmer or edger maintained and clean with these tips.

one-story home on a hill with green lawn

Here's how to jump start your spring lawn and landscape projects.

Lukas has had to recruit family and friends to help with the yardwork portion of his business. (Photo by Sandy Moreland)

Lukas Moreland started his lawn care and lawn mower maintence business when he was just 14. Find out what motivates him to keep the business going.

lawn mower cutting grass

Having trouble starting your lawn mower? Angie Hicks explains why it's a bad idea to leave old fuel in your lawn mower for an extended period of time.

Angie's Answers


The only time a carburator needs replacing is if you put some really corrosive cleaner in it that ate through the metal (usually aluminum), or if you have physically broken it.

Otherwise, carbs can be rebuilt - rebuild kits (that contain basically all the non-metallic parts, the primer bulb (usually) and carb gaskets) typically run $10-25. A tuneup (carb rebuild and new spark plug) with parts typically runs about $60-80 ($100-150 for rider mowers), although a lot of repair shops have $45-60 spring specials. Probably needs a sharpening too - another $10-15 or so when done as part of a tune-up.

By hiring someone to do it, I presume you mean taking it to a small engine repair shop with a good word of mouth reputation, and being sure to get a dropoff receipt and estimate in writing that you carry away with you.

If it runs at all, or ran last fall, this is probably all you need.

Compare this to the cost of a new mower - for a rider mower, no comparison of course - go with the carb cleaning and rebuild. However, for a standard 20-22 inch push power mower, replacement cost is about $140-250, depending on whether you go with a Walmart special or brand name, additional $100 or so if self-propelled or bagging type.

For a 10 year old push type power mower, if it sits outside all winter or is pretty rusty, since you are not mechanically inclined I would recommend getting a new mower - something like a Sears or Murray Ohio (at Target, WalMart, etc) plain-jane mower for about $150-180 unless you have steep hills or medical issues, then get the self-propelled model. A 20 inch or even 18 inch will do fine for a small lawn; if you have several lawns or a pretty big lawn area (over say 2500 SF) then you probably want a 22 inch - the extra path width makes quite a difference in how long it takes to mow.

If it sleeps in a shed or garage and is not rusting out, I would recommend a new one if the plain jane will do it for you, otherwise if the replacement one that you would buy is over about $250 I would go with the carb overhaul and tuneup.

I would STRONGLY recommend you get a 4 cycle engine - I swear by Briggs and Stratton rather than Tecumseh or other brands. 4 cycles start much easier and are less sensitive to fuel/air mix issues, and the plugs stay clean a lot longer. 2 cycles are lighter for the same horsepower which is why you see them a lot in outboard motors that are less than about 50-80 HP and in small generators and motorcycles, but they are a lot more tempermental about starting, especially in cold weather or after a long storage.

If you pay attention to proper winter storage procedure, rebuilding the carb on the old one should last you another 5+ years. I have a Murray Ohio with 4 cycle Briggs and Stratton engine that is 33 years old, lives in an unheated shed in a northern state, and has had nothing more than annual blade sharpening, oil change every few years, and one carb overhaul and plug cleaning (and ZERO new spark plugs) in its life, and starts by second pull every spring. The key is if you store it inside in a garage to run it dry each fall (so you do not have gas in the garage, for safety reasons in case it leaks out); if you leave it outside I fill the tank to the top so moisture cannot acccumulate from moist air "breathing" in and out of the tank due to temperature changes. I do this with mower, chain saw, leaf blower, weed wacker - all start on first or second pull in the spring (and throughout the summer). If you live in an area with a lot of moisture in the winter air (ours is very dry) you might have to add Heet or Sta-Bil to the fuel can (per instructions) before topping off tank.

You will find other people who say you HAVE to run it dry each season. Their theory is that if there is no gas in it then there is no gas to collect moisture or to evaporate and turn to varnish over the winter (though that generally takes a few years of sitting to happen). My theory is if it is filled with fuel it cannot dry out and leave varnish residue to block the fuel tube screen and fuel jets, plus it does not rust metal fuel tanks by being empty. To each their own procedure.


No personal experience on rider mowers but some with small rider tractors, but since you have gotten no response in 5 days, here is my 2 cents worth:


1) read the Consumer Reports and JD Powers reviews on rider mowers


2) from what neighbors have told me, TroyBilt are maintenance problem and not built very rugged, Sears tend to have transmission/drive train problems, those with John Deere say they were unhappy with the price but they run well and don't have extreme maintenance costs - so sounds to me like JD is best brand out there right now.


3) A recommendation also from personal small engine experience and neighbors - stay with Briggs and Stratton 4 cycle engines if possible, and stay away from 2 cycle engines - they are lighter and cheaper, but have a LOT more starting problems and tend to not last as long.

With you not saying what this is on - could be portable device or very small rider mower - check oill level - some fancier ones on air compressors and pressure washers and rider mowers have oil monitor that shuts it off if oil pressure does not build up. Failed governor spring (rare - would be one of my last guesses) can do this, but when I had it happen the engine ran up to speed and died in only a second or two - not 8 seconds. Governor linkage usually an external metal rod with springs connecting to the carb - try watching it during the 8 seconds to see if it is yanking the throttle/choke setting back causing it to shut down. Also check to be sure not blocked by twig or leaves or such. I would check the plug after it dies - if wet then you are pretty sure you are getting fuel, if dry then maybe it is only getting fuel from manual priming or automatic choke, but then the choke is cutting out and starving the engine for fuel. IF your model has accessible automatic choke linkage (or if choke plate is accessible if you remove air cleaner), try using a long tool (not fingers, in case of backfire through carb) to adjust choke angle to see if that will make it keep running - if you can see it after taking off air cleaner, it should be staying full on for probably 20-40 seconds before it opens up wide open if temperature contr4olled type, but the engine-speed type open up as soon as engine comes up to speed. Another possibility - check air cleaner to be sure not plugged with dirt - wash (and with many models oil) per owners manual instructions. Another common problem - starts on priming or choke, but when on regular fuel flow leans out and dies due to air leak in fuel line letting air in with fuel, or dirty screen in tank not letting enough fuel in to keep it running. Also, crudded up holes in the tank cap can cause vapor lock by not letting air in to tank to replace fuel consumed - remove and take out inner liner and check holes in liner and metal cap are open so you can see daylight through them. Another possibility - look for debris, etc keeping throttle from opening up - could be idle screw jiggled loose and is set too low. Try screwing it in a half turn or so to see if keeps running - because might be starting on choke but then when choke starts opening up the idle setting is too low so throttle is not open enough to keep it running. If consistently runs 8 seconds and dies, try turning the main needle valve 1/4 turn one way, then if tht does not work back the 1/4 turn plus 1/4 turn the other way (keep track of turns so you know where initial setting is) - if one or other makes better than adjust in that range for smooth running and no flooding or leaning out when you open throttle up.
Hi Maurice,
This is Sarah B. in Member Care. Thanks for your interest in Angie's List!
We'll be happy to help find top rated Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair providers, but it doesn't look like you have a subscription to the List yet. You can join by visiting www.angieslist.com or by giving us a call. Our call center is available 8:00 am-9:00 pm weekdays and 8:00-5:00 pm ET on Saturdays. If you join online, you can save 20% on an annual plan by using the promo code ANSWERS.
Thanks for your question and we look forward to assisting you, Maurice!

Since it would not start BEFORE you took it in for service, hard to blame them - even if rainfall did get in it, because they would assume when you delivered it that it was in "normal" condition, whjich presumably meant vaent closed. By "vent" on top of the gas tank I am not sure what you mean - a "vent" should not let a lot of water in, but if you mean the filler cap then certainly you would get about as much water depth in the tank as the number of inches of rain you had while it was sitting out.


Another possibility - vent was open during your fall washing down, and wash water got into the tank, which then ended up in the gas can for the winter, then back to the mower in the spring.


Other possibility - your gas can picked up a lot of water over the winter, particuylarly if metal and stored in a location where it could warm up during the day (evaporates gas) then as it cools overnight forms a partial vacuum so it pulls in moist air, which then condenses in the can and settles to the bottom. If using normal pour spout, the first thing out of the can in the spring would be the water (would be first into spout as you pour out), so water from the can might have gone into the mower at first filling.


Another possibility which is amazingly common - little Johnny decides to fuel the mower for you and poured water or bug juice or such in there.


BTW - most fuel stabilizers do NOT trap water - fuel stabilizer put a very thin layear on top of the liquid to retart evaporation, so your gaoline does not turn to diesel or sludge. To trap water and keep it from settling out you need alcohol - like Heet. Also, when draining tank, you should drain the first part into a clear containear (mayonnaise jar or such) then after it has settled a few seconds pour back to the can, leaving the water in the bottom of the jar to be disposed of.

Hi Kyle,
This is Sarah B. in Member Care. Thanks for posting!
I was able to find several rated providers to help you. For your current need though, our Snapfix specialists would also be able to do all of the dialing for you, match you up with a top rated company and arrange to have them call you to figure out the logistics. If this sounds like something you would be interested in, please fill out the form in the link below and our Snapfix Team will take it from there!
If you would like to reach out to these providers yourself, please let me know. I’d be happy to send these to you.  No matter which option you choose, I hope you’ll take the time to fill out a review when the work is done.
If you would like information on providers through this forum, please let us know. You can respond to this thread or submit a new Answers post. You can also reach us at memberservices@angieslist.com . We're happy to help, Kyle!

Lawn Mower Repair reviews in Portland


I have a Black and Deck lawnmower with the battery, not the cord. 's are about the only folks in the area that service that type of mower. They did an excellent job. I would definitely use them again.

I was able to schedule service within a few days of my call. He arrived on time and was very professional, courteous, and friendly. The service was done in less than an hour. I would definitely recommend this service to anyone who doesn't want to haul their mower in to an off-site location for service. It may cost a little more, but it is ...More worth it for the convenience.

The only negative about the whole experience is that the new pull cord is shorter than the original, but it works fine so no problem. All in all, I got exactly what I wanted from a very professional and friendly person.

I have called around the city looking for a business that repaired corded electric Snapper lawn mowers. This was the first business that would recommend another company.
- Willy V.

It was almost miraculous how was able to instantly pinpoint the problem, organize the repair, and juggle customers and workers all in the middle of an area the size of a garage and jam-packed with parts to the ceiling. I have to doubt that he knows where everything is, however.

It took them about an hour from the time I brought the saw in until they were done. Fantastic job. Previously, they assisted me in getting the saw started (my poor technique) and did not charge me since they said there was nothing wrong with the saw. Great folks to work with.

It went poorly from the start. There was a lot of miscommunication about the starting problem. They told me that the battery was completely dead and I would need a new one even though mine was only a few months old. I agreed and they told me they had installed and charged me for a new battery. Turns out it was a ground connection problem and the battery ...More was fine. They charged me for the grounding problem and the labor. They put a new blade (dull) on with their torque machine and I couldn't get it off to sharpen it. When I called they said I wouldn't be able to remove it by hand safely. The blade was new but completely dull. They told me that this was standard procedure because sharp blades were too dangerous. So I mowed all season with a dull blade that I couldn't remove to sharpen or replace. They supposedly replaced the carburetor on the chipper shredder but it only lasted half the season before it wouldn't start again. I would never have them do any work again for me.
- Peter M.

and - these guys are FABULOUS - we can't say enough good things about them. Service was excellent and FAST. We took the lawn mower in and had it back in about two days - perfect. It looked like new and ran like new. We had been told by the Honda dealer last year that it may need a new carburetor ...More and other various repairs. We were thinking of just buying a new one, but a different brand. I looked on Angie's List and found . We took it to and they gave us an estimate of, I think it was between $68 and $86, but said it would probably be below $86, which it was. They believe in customer service like you used to get and which virtually doesn't exist in this world with many companies. I highly, highly recommend them and would use them again in a heartbeat. I will check to see what other services they may offer, hopefully for garden tool sharpening. You can't beat service and quality workmanship. And they have a 90-day warranty.

cheerfully answered the phone and then gave us a very reliable estimate of the work they would do, including the price and length of time required. The work was done promptly and exactly as specified. They extended the warranty of their work until after we use the mower in the spring. The shop is very consumer and service oriented. ...More We will definitely use again.

Lawn Mower Repair Shops in Portland

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Aloha Feed Garden & Pet

18840 SW Alexander St

B&Js Handyman Services Portland

8520 SE Woodstock Blvd


327 Pioneer St

Creekscape Design, LLC

4305 SW 185th Ave

Cummins Northwest

4711 N Basin Ave

D&L Services

130 se 16th ct.

Daybreak Construction

11222 NE 339th St



Elevate Construction Inc

1000 S Fairfield Drive

Fahey Machinery Co., Inc.

17605 Meridian Rd
Lake Oswego

Five Star Handyman Services LLC

1152 NE 71st Ave

Henderson Turf & Wear Inc

5120 SE Johnson Creek Blvd

HRB Small Engine

444 SE 5th Ave

Jay's Mower & Chainsaw

7205 NE Martin Luther King Jr Blvd

Lawn Garden Industrial Small Engine Office

8320 SE Woodstock Boulevard

MainStream Landscape

11580 SW Graven St. King City, OR
King City

Metro Equipment Exchange

12111 SE Hwy 212

Moen Machinery Co

268 NE Hogan Dr

MRZ Landscaping

32969 SW Acacia Ct

O'Neills Tools Inc

7133 NE Glisan St

Pacific Tractor & Implement

1221 SW Baseline ST


4916 NE 100TH AVE

Portland Landscapes

410 NW Uptown Terrace, 3A

Ray's Custom Landscaping & Yard Service

5017 Se aldercrest Rd

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave


10270 SW Hall Blvd


BOX 304

Stark Street Lawn & Garden

11827 SE Stark St

Stark Street Lawn & Garden Oregon City

1780 Washington St
Oregon City

Sweet Lawn Care

2787 NW Gibson Rd

TJ'S Tractor Service

201 ne 152nd Ave

Valley Scapes

150 NE Hogan Drive


7247 SE Woodstock Blvd

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