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"He took the koi out of the pond and put them in a small portable pond. He power washed the whole pond and got rid of all the sludge. Washed the filter system, treated" the water, and put the fish back in. It took him 3 full hours. Really nice guy and he did a great job.

-marilyn M.

and his assistant
came back a couple of days later, performed the work in a timely and professional manner. The water" is now continually crystal clear (they also added river rock to the base of the pond to help beautify it) and the leak has been repaired. They were terrific to work with and we've engaged them to install some french drains in other areas of the property.

-Deborah M.

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Local Articles in Portland

Lakefront landscaping

Landscaping can be a challenge in ordinary circumstances, but lakefront landscaping poses additional challenges from sloping and floodplain issues. What ideas will help you create your perfect lakefront escape?

trimming weeds
Lawn & Yard Work, Landscaping, Lawn Fertilization & Treatment, Lawn Irrigation, Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair, Landscaping & Lighting, Landscaping - Hardscaping & Pavers, Landscaping - Lakefront, Roto-Tilling, Tree Service

Ready to get your hands dirty? It's time to say goodbye to Old Man Winter and reacquaint yourself with Mother Nature ...

Cost effective landscaping upgrades include structural features like lighting, fences, garden paths, fire pits, swimming pools and ponds, says Sadree. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Julie M. of King George, Virginia)
Landscaping, Landscaping & Lighting, Landscaping - Hardscaping & Pavers, Landscaping - Lakefront

Landscaping requires constant maintenance, but it can also save you money. Follow these tips to invest in a beautiful yard to bring lasting value to your home.

Angie's List
Landscaping, Landscaping - Lakefront, Landscaping & Lighting, Lawn & Yard Work

Angie's List
Landscaping, Lawn & Yard Work, Greenhouses/Nurseries, Landscaping - Lakefront, Landscaping & Lighting

Angie's Answers

I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.


One of the more difficult issues facing you will be making sure you compare apples 'n apples while understanding the differences between apples 'n oranges.

Some things common to all:

How far from your (water) meter pit to the home?

Do you know what sort of water pressure you have?

Those two questions sortta drive the rest.  How many sprinklers you have is a piece of the puzzle but it is lower on the issues list than how much water pressure and gallons per minute of flow (gpm) you have.  Knowing the water pressure and gpm coming to the house is important because it is the info divided by the flow rate of the heads to tell you how many you can run at a time.

 That, plus the number of heads it takes to cover your yard will let them decide on how many zones to cut the yard into (each zone is X number of heads that run at the same time).

Will the different estimates be for systems that are all parts from a single manufaturer or will it be a collection of brands?  Some will tell you that the parts (controller, back-flow, heads and even specific heads) are better from different manufacturers while others will tell you that all from a single manufacturer will give you an optimized system.

And, are the contractors equally certified?  Not only education and experience but certifications from the various manufacturers who's parts they want to use.  And, will their installations be the same?  Will they open trenches all around your yard and be a week getting the stuff layed, connected and back-filled?  Or, will they pull the flexible pipe and be in 'n out in one day with water flowing to cover their intrussion before they leave that day?

Will your system need to be blown out with pressurized air at the end of the season to avoid winter freeze and bursts or will it drain automagically?

I know, I took your simple question and made it hard.

When I bought my system about 9 years ago, I had a variety of estimates and the differences sortta fell into the mess I listed above.  The low estimate was a person who seemed to be from the "get it in the ground and fix it later" school.

The highest estimate was from someone who seemed more concerned about my yard and the final result than I was.  The low person was using parts 'n pieces from a variety of manufacturers.  The high person was certified by the company that made all the parts he was wanting to use and he carried a fairly high rating from them for his past performance..  He would vary for me if I wanted but he had sound reasons from the controller to each of the heads as to why he preferred his "brand".

It doesn't look like you are a member of Angie's List.  Given the size of the investment you are looking at, this might be a great time to join and see how others in your community have rated the contractors you are considering or if there is one you should add to your list. 

My yard is between 12 and 15,000 square feet less the house, deck, two mini-barns and it is interrupted with a number of blocking (blocks the stream of water) evergreens and planting beds.

The low estimate I had was about $2,500 and would take three days to put in from the time they began to trench.  I don't recall how many heads he wanted to put in but if it was off, he'd be able to put another anyplace and tie it to the nearest zone to give me good coverage.  Uh, this was the get it in the ground 'n adjust later person.

The high estimate I had was around $4,500.  This proposal was for seven active zones each having 5 to 7 heads.  There was enough capacity (extra zone controllers and space within the system controller) built in to add drip irrigation at a later date for the planting beds without having to replace anything.  He drew the entire yard and gave me a copy with the heads marked showing the "throw" of each and the overlap he built in to avoid any missed areas.  And, they wanted to arrive in the morning and leave that evening with the system watering to cover their tracks throughout the yard.  One day and they would not leave until it was working as advertised!

I took the high estimate.  I have a neighbor who bought from the other folks.  Both of us are happy.  He is really happy because each time he calls his company for adjustments or corrections (yep, they got it in the ground and are still putzing with it) they are out within the week, they are really easy to do business with and their service calls' costs haven't gone up a whole bunch.

Sorry, you can't look at the price and divide by X number of heads and have a fair comparison.


1) IF you are talking the root crown - the portion where it is not one solid truck or "bole", but still a solid or near-solid mass of roots coming off the base of the trunk, then that has to come out on way or another. Typically, once you get beyond about a 3 foot circle then you are in the radial portion of the roots where they spread out laterally, and are a foot or more apart, and new roots can grow in that area fro the new tree OK. Of course, be prepared to have to trim some volunteers so the old tree can't come back, and be sure to fertilize the new tree per recommendations because the old roots will still be trying to extract water and food from the soil to support the tree that they do not yet realize is gone. Do NOT put stump killer or poison in the old tree - will kill new one too.

2) The proper commercial way to do this is to have the entire root crown and larger roots removed with a stump grinder - looks like this -


You need a tree service that can grind down at least two feet below ground level and remove the root crown and larger root segments. If you hve large roots running laterally quite a ways, he can grind them up too - ditto to "trippers" sticking up above ground. Just be sure to have it clear (spray painted) upfront how far he is going for what he quoted - typically about $150 for tree up to 1-2 feet in diameter, up to $500 for a massive sycamore or walnut or cottonwood or redwood with 6 foot diameter crown. While you can rent stump grinders at tooll rental places, I REALLY do not recommend it - the rental ones you can afford to rent for one use are pretty light duty, and they can chew a person up in no time flat if you lose control when it snags in the wood or hits a rock.

3) Another way is to go out to where the massive roots taper off to something you can reasonable cut - say 4-6 inches in diameter, and cut them all in a circle around the stump, then with a come-along or CAREFULLY (not more than a few hundred pounds) with a vehicle with a trailer hitch, put a steady pull on a good rope or strap or chain in a shallow notch cut around the top of the stump (so it does not pop off easy), then while it is being rotated up out of the ground walk around and cut any root you see still attached or trying to lift out of the ground. This works much better if the stump is left about 4-6 feet high so you get some real leverage on it with the pull, but if already cut down short run chain or strap over the top of it and around a large root on the far side of the stump. I use a Sawzall with foot long coarse tooth wood cutting blade for this - goes through roots really fast, and blade is only $1 or so apiece so ruining one or two hitting rocks is no big thing, and also reaches in under the stump better and safer than an axe. I helped a neighbor take out a back yard full of birches this way - took us about half a day to remove about 15 trees with about 6 foot diameter circle of crown and roots, leaving holes about 1-2 feet deep where each tree was. Remember this - whichever way you use to take it out, you will need maybe 1-5 wheelbarrow loads of good growth medium to replace the divot. 

4) Cheaper route - cut off flush with ground level (or leave some stickup as a planter or stool or feeder base or whatever), and plant new tree at least 4 feet away from old crown, in a spot between the old roots.

'Reasonable' is one of those words that means wildly divergent things to different people.  Check with your local high school to see if they have  any sort of agricultural program.  If yes, perhaps someone in that program could help you.  Being a landscaper myself, I must say it sounds like you want something that is - first and foremost - cheap.   This is NOT the best way to look for any service.  You would be better served looking for 'competant' than with 'cheap'.  The nicer you want your flowerbed to look, the more important it is to find someone who REALLY knows what they are doing.

Natural stones will have some degree of variance given the lack of pre-made consistency.


1/2" is too much from stone to stone and should be able to be fixed with additional leveling sand. 




Lakefront Landscapers in Portland

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

2Students Haulin & Landscape Maintenance

19495 SW Gassner Rd

4 A's Tree Service

2906 St Johns Blvd

A & L Tree Service

4619 NE 112 Ave

A1 General Clean Up & Landscape Co

18077 S. Gillman Rd.
Oregon City

Aesthetic Environments

6986 SE Drake Street

All About Concrete & Masonry

9450 S Heinz Rd

All Oregon Landscaping Inc

19785 SW Cipole Rd

All Things Aquatic

1002 N Springbrook Rd Ste A

Artistic Landscapes

10670 SW Black Diamond Way

Artistic Touch Landscaping, Inc.

12531 SE Raymond St

Barclay's Gardens and More

17550 Braden Ct

Benchmark Landscape, llc.

19401 McDowell Ln
Oregon City

Big Boy Waterfalls & Koi Ponds

2292 Southwest 199th Ct.

Blessing Landscapes

7219 NE 47th Ave

Breunig Construction Inc.

14360 SE Haze Ct.


PO BOX 7399


1905 SW 257TH AVE

CFS Landscape Maintenance

PO Box 4193

Construction Creations

12420 SW Alberta St.

Creative Visions Landscapes, Inc

9965 SE Orient Dr

Decorative Hardscapes LLC

4875 SW Fairmount Dr



DeSantis Landscapes

7907 State Street

Design Resource Group

PO Box 4004

Ed's Arbor Care

3251 SW 18th ct

Expeditious Earthscapes, Inc.

19450 se Hittay tr. drive

Exstream Landscaping

11030 SE 92nd Ct
Happy Valley

Froeberland Landscape Architecture

9527 SW Brooklyn Ln



Gonzalez Landscaping

3655 SE 25th St.

Green O Construction, LLC.

1112 SE Maple St #C

Green Road Construction

5660 Westside Road

Greenpoint Landscaping Inc

2219 Thorne St

GRO Outdoor Living

3601 NE 74th Street




23050 SW 82ND AVE

Hang Lake Construction

14056 SE Carlton St.

Heaton Nursery

3829 Pleasant Hill Rd

J's Custom Landscaping

6416 NE 109th St


PO BOX 1372

Landscape Design In A Day

4908 SW Barnes Rd

Landscape East & West

P O Box 430

Laughing Dog Solutions

7606 SE Harney Street

Maid Organic PDX

75 NE Bryant St

Matty's Yard Care

6817 Se Lamphier St.

Merten & Sons Landscape

PO Box 1261
St. Paul

Monaghan's Landscaping

7925 SW Canyon Ln

MRZ Landscaping

32969 SW Acacia Ct

Natural Landscape & Irrigation

5606 Carman Dr
Lake Oswego

Northwest Outdoor Living and Landscapes

16796 SE Royer Road

NW Renovations

PO Box 186

Oregon Landscape

12805 SE Capps Rd

Patrick Handley Landscape Co.

14414 SE Garland Ct

PDX Home Care

2459 SE TV HWY #244


148 B AVE
Lake Oswego

Ponds by Biologists

3900 S Fairview Way
West Linn

Portland Landscapes

410 NW Uptown Terrace, 3A


6597 SW 192ND AVE

red roots, INC

13025 SW 107th Ct

Rejuvenation Artisans Landscapes

5010 SE 44th Ave

Ross NW Watergardens

7607 SE 104TH AVE


29030 SW Town Center Loop E

Service Group Construction

10411 NE Fourth Plain,

Spectrum Landscapes LLC

9342 N Saint Johns Ave

Stone NW

7002 NE 88th St


5715 NE Cesar E Chavez Blvd

Structure Landscapes NW

4147 SE 25th Ave


Mt. Tabor. SE Portland.


372 NW 179TH AVE

Terra-Sol Landscaping

Greater Portland-Metro Area

Terry Rinkes Tractor Work

PO Box 546

The SHIR Corporation

9411 NE HWY 99 Ste. 1

Tight Access Excavating LLC

6400 SE 101 Ave

Tryon Creek Landscape, Inc.

11400 SW N Dakota St

West Side Goat Girl

1100 NW 405th St.

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