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Local Articles in Portland

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

computer energy-saving tips
Electrical, Computer Sales

Whether you have a desktop or laptop, consider these tips to save electricity — and cash.

All outdoor outlets must be GFCI-protected, experts say. (Illustration by Bruce Snow)
Electrical, Decks & Porches

“He told me in 40 years of electrical work, he’s never seen anything like that.” — Angie's List member Sondra Davis

DVRs are a top Energy Vampire
Electrical, Appliance Sales

DVRs are the most diabolical of the many home appliances that use energy even when turned off.

Kitchen with new appliances
Electrical, Appliance Sales

Evolution in product standards has led to significant energy savings.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

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Electrical reviews in Portland

F

Rating
We really had high hopes for
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
given the other great reviews. I scheduled a walk through at the rental property, coordinating the work with my renters and had an appt. at 2pm. At 2:20, after assuming this was a no-show, I went up to the house to check in with my renters (they hold swing shifts and sleep during off hours, so didn't want to bother them if I didn't have to). It turns out the electrician came by much earlier than the appt. and didn't call to let me know -- not a terrible thing if this was the only issue I had interacting
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
, even though it was an inconvenience to take time out of work to arrange to meet him and no one called to let me know they were arriving early.
That could have been ok if that was the end of it, but I then got a call that the scheduled work had to be moved twice, arranging with the renters on schedules. Then when the work was finally done, and I had to call
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
at
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
to hear about how it went (no follow up from them), he said it was pretty straight forward and no issues. Then about 3 weeks later, I got another call from the electrician who did the work that one of the parts was not in when they replaced the panel and that he needed to come by and replace another breaker. He left the message with me, I called back 3 times and still haven't heard back. Now I hear today from my renters that power is out in half of the house. Could it be related to the panel work that they did? The breaker that I still haven't confirmed was ever replaced?? I called and left two messaged for
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
the owner today, and still haven't heard back as of 5pm.
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
and his staff are incredibly difficult to get a hold of -- I expect a higher level of communication for work that is being done on my property. I'm now moving on to other electrical companies that I hope have better customer service.
- Derek B.
A

Rating
Two people performed the work. They were very efficient about their work and division of duties. Did an excellent job, cleaned up area using a vacuum. Nice clean installation.
- Raymond D.
B

Rating
They did all the work they were expected to do. It cost more than I would like because they had to rent a lift to get to the parking lot lights. But, when it came time to look at the interior flourescents, they were carrying the replacement ballasts and installed them easily. They seemed to work efficiently and cleanly. Not a difficult job, but I was happy.
- tom H.
D

Rating
The guy was saying he wasn't going to have to do a bunch of cieling damage in order to put the lights in. He wouldn't come look at it to see what would be involved; but he was saying it was going cost an additional $250-500 additional over my deal purchase to correct the cieling damage with another company. It was almost like he was trying to talk me out of it.
- Zhaleh L.
C

Rating
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
came on short notice and got my kitchen remodel back on track quickly. He stayed late one afternoon so that the sheet rocker would not be delayed. However, after he offered, he was much harder to schedule to come back, did not call me as he said he would, and just in general had a bad attitude. He made a mess of my walls and complained the whole way how hard it was. I'm still not sure he did the best job - only what he had to do. He charged me the equivalent of $150 an hour or more which was ridiculous and expected me to provide the plugs and switches. He didn't finish it out, and I had to stop him and ask him to out plugs in even with no plates so that I could use the kitchen plugs to work. He was just going to leave wires hanging out everywhere.
- Allison P.
F

Rating
I received a call from
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
, who was very sweet and professional. She told me that I would receive a call from
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
, their estimator, either that day or the next to set up a time for him to come out and give me a bid. I also told her that I had a neighbor who was interested in having some work done, and she told me that
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
would be more than happy to take a look after he was done checking out my project. I never heard from him.
- VALERIE C.
A

Rating
These guys are top notch. We picked them after getting a bid from another contractor who did not give us a lot of confidence. That never was the case with these guys!
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
gave us a very fair bid and was extremely responsive in terms of exploring a variety of options with us. They were able to schedule the work with pretty short notice on our hot tub delivery which I really appreciated. The guys who did the work were outstanding. Best electricians I've ever hired - quickly figured out the best way to run conduit for our situation (which had confused the other guy we got a bid from) and flawlessly executed it. We will definitely use
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
whenever we need any kind electrical work done.
- BOB S.
A

Rating
Very well done. Repairman listened to what I wanted, discussed best way to proceed and answered all my questions. He arrived on time, did the work quickly and proficiently and had all the supplies he needed in his truck. Kept the work area clean while doing the work and cleaned up thoroughly at end of the repair.
Price is fair - electrical work, even minor things like this are not cheap. But I am confident that high quality materials were used and that the electrical service in the kitchen is safe and meets current building codes.
- Gregory G.

All Electricians in Portland

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

SUNDOWN ELECTRIC CO

39675 NW VERBOORT RD
Forest Grove

SUNLIGHT ELECTRIC

2804 NE 65th Ave Ste D

Sunlight Solar Energy, Inc. (Portland)

402 S. Beavercreek Rd
Oregon City

Sunset Air Inc

5210 Lacey Blvd.

Sunset Builders LLC

16552 SW Sunset Blvd
Sherwood

Sunset Heating & Cooling Inc

0607 SW Idaho St
Portland

Sunset Solar Electric LLC

1535 NW 136th Ave.
Portland

Super Green Contracting

1514 SE 24th Cir
Troutdale

SUSAN EMMONS INSTALLATIONS

17 SE 3RD AVE
Portland

Swanson Construction Inc

PO BOX 1874
Sandy

SWENSON ELECTRIC

PO BOX 3141
Portland

Swich Electric

PO BOX 11233
Portland

SYLVANIA LIGHTING SVC

10796 SE HIGHWAY 212
Clackamas

SYNERGIES RENOVATIONS LLC

3227 SE 56th Ave.
Portland

TALON ELECTRIC

3621 NE 148TH AVE

Tane Electric, llc

27014 NE 103rd ave

TATAL MECHANICAL

898 NW NORHTRUP ST
Portland

TCMS

1060 INDUSTRIAL WAY

TEAM ELECTRIC CO

9400 SE CLACKAMAS RD
Clackamas

Technocom Inc

7929 SW BURNS Way
Wilsonville

TEKTRONIX FUNDING CORP

26600 SW PARKWAY AVE
Wilsonville

TEKTRONIX INTERNATIONAL INC

14200 SW KARL BRAUN DR
Beaverton

TELEPHONE CONNECTION SVC

PO BOX 2075
Beaverton

TEMP COVERS INC

425 NE HANCOCK ST
Portland

Ten Day Kitchens LLC

6663 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy
Portland

Tesla Electric Company

2850 SW Cedar Hills Blvd
Beaverton

TEST PRODUCTS INTL

9615 SW ALLEN BLVD
Beaverton

the affordable home doctor

1586 SE Marion St
Portland

The Heat Pump Store

11933 NE Sumner St
Portland

THE WORKS

1303 SE 6th Ave
Portland

THOMAS HOVLAND HOME MAINTENANCE

1717 SW Park Ave.
Portland

THOMPSON GRASS VALLEY

15655 SW GREYSTONE CT
Beaverton

THOR ELECTRIC

6016 NE 116TH ST

THREE PHASE ELECTRIC

493 NE 3RD AVE
Canby

THREE RIVERS ELECTRIC & CONSTR

PO BOX 1730
Clackamas

THUNDERBIRD ELECTRIC INC

1130 NE 75TH AVE
Portland

TICE ELECTRIC CO

5405 N LAGOON AVE
Portland

TIGER & SUSAN BRANCH CREATIVE

4104 SW PASADENA ST
Portland

TIM MILIGEN

Portland

Timber Creek Construction Inc

11350 SE 121st Ct
Happy Valley

TIMBERLINE ELECTRICAL CONTR

PO Box 918
Lake Oswego

TINITRON INC

5160 NW FIVE OAKS DR
Hillsboro

TITAN ELECTRIC

11114 SW 65th Ave
Portland

TODD'S LIGHTING & ELECTRICAL

19579 S KARI ANN CT
Oregon City

Tom Bishop Construction, LLC

4578 SW 103rd Ave
Beaverton

Toms Electric

9610 Chance Rd
Tillamook

TONER CARTRIDGE RECYCLING SVC

41100 SE GORDON CREEK RD
Corbett

Total Car Care Centers

305 SW 1st Ave
Canby

TOTAL MARITIME SVC LTD

4475 SW SCHOLLS FERRY RD
Portland

TOTAL MECHANICAL

1499 SE TECH CENTER PL

TOTAL MECHANICAL INC

1498 SE Tech Center Pl Ste 180

TRADEMARK DEVELOPMENT

1724 NE 42nd Ave
Portland

TRAFFIC DETECTION

10985 SW CLUTTER RD
Sherwood

Trail Blazing Corporation

PO Box 703
Cornelius

TRANSOCEANIC CABLE SHIP CO

5555 N CHANNEL AVE
Portland

TREK ELECTRIC LLC

33085 ONNA WAY
Scappoose

Tri County Temp Control

13150 Clackamas River Dr
Oregon City

TRI-CITY ELECTRIC

8395 S GRIBBLE RD
Canby

TRI-MOTOR & MACHINERY CO

24460 S HIGHWAY 99E
Canby

TRIAD MECHANICAL INC

2133 N ARGYLE ST
Portland

TRITEK/NORTHWEST TEST MSRMT

20449 SW TV HWY
Beaverton

Tualatin Valley Concrete

8950 SW Locust St
Portland

TURC ELECTRIC

29191 Fm 306

Turnkey Construction LLC

4207 NE 8th Ave
Portland

Unfettered Renovations

13030 S Freeman Rd
Mulino

Unique Construction Co

7714 NE 128th Ave

URBAN ELECTRIC

6645 SW 89th Pl
Portland

Urban K. Hutchins Construction

54 SE 78th Ave
Portland

VALLEY ELECTRIC CO LLC

19707 GRANT RD
Monmouth

VANCOUVER HANDYMAN LLC

1307 NE 95th Ave

Vanguard Electric, Inc.

3800 Morris St.
Newberg

Verdant Construction and Design LLC

4334 NE 77th Ave
Portland

VIKING ELECTRIC

4326 SE WOODSTOCK BLVD
Portland

VILARDI ELECTRIC

PO BOX 1200
Rainier

VINTAGE HOMES NW

15735 NW St Andrews Dr
Portland

VISION SECURITY SVC

29030 SW TOWN CTR LOOP E 202
Wilsonville

Volt Electric

13241 SE Holgate
Portland

VPE Electrical Services

8317 NE 126th Ave.

WADE ELEC SALES & SVC

13609 SE 20TH CIR

WAGSTAFF BATTERY & SVC

16285 SW 85TH AVE
Portland

WAGSTAFF BATTERY & SVC INC

16968 Gassner Ln
Lake Oswego

WALLACE L RAINEY

PO BOX 1682
Beaverton

WALTER HORN

Portland

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WATLOW ELECTRIC

6915 SW ARRANMORE WAY
Portland

WATTS HEATING & COOLING

580 PORTLAND AVE
Gladstone

WCI CABLE

921 SW WASHINGTON ST
Portland

WCI CABLE

19720 NW TANASBOURNE DR
Hillsboro

WESCO DISTRIBUTING INC

2345 NW 31ST AVE
Portland

West Side Electric Co Inc

1834 SE 8th Ave
Portland

WESTCON INC

14058 SW MILTON CT
Portland

WESTERN CASCADE ELECTRIC INC

PO Box 23124
Portland

WESTERN OREGON BUILDERS

PO BOX 97220
Portland

Wilcox Electric

100 E 19th St Ste 140

WILD WOOD LIGHTING

3439 NE SANDY BLVD
Portland

WILLAMETTE ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 230547
Portland

WILLAMETTE VALLEY ELEC CONSTR

416 S TRADE ST
Amity

WILLCO

920 SE Caruthers St
Portland

Wilson Electric

2700 ne 199th nst

WINNER ELECTRIC CONSTRUCTION INC

5950 SW PROSPERITY PARK RD
Tualatin

Wire Nuts Inc

Portland

Wire Rite Electric Inc

177707 NE 72nd Ave

WIRED RIGHT

2445 SW ROXBURY AVE
Portland

WM. D. Herboth Remodeling Inc.

6006 NE Rodney Ave
Portland

WOODLAND ELECTRIC

1823 SCHURMAN WAY

XTREME COMMUNICATIONS INC

24023 NE SHEA LN
Troutdale

YOUNG ELECTRIC

9999 SW Wilshire St Ste 221
Portland

ZAPP ELECTRIC INC

8821 NE SANDY BLVD
Portland

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