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A
"I have an older home and the power ran from the street, around the fireplace and then over the roof overhang above my side door into the meter. Since I was getting" a new roof, it seemed like a fine time to fix this.
was extremely responsive to my quick timeline since this needed to be done before the roofers who were already scheduled. They coordinated with PP&L to move the meter, and basically put in all new service really quickly and even put in an outdoor plug for me as a last minute request. Everyone I spoke with from the Estimator to the office workers to the installers were helpful, professional and just plane awesome. The Inspector was also impressed with the work done and said only good things about the company. I'd definitely use them again.

-Marietta M.

A
"
is great, and I didn't even hire them! I know next to nothing when it comes to electrical. I was using a drill on the basement and" half the lights shut off. Checked the breaker box and the corresponding switch had not flipped. I called many local electricians to price shop and they told me they could fix it within one hour and it would cost between $120-$140. I then called
, the gentleman told me that it was most likely a GFCI. He then told me how to troubleshoot and easily replace it if necessary. I poked at a few buttons and fixed the problem! Next time I mess something up, these guys will get the call.

-Brian W.

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Local Articles in Portland

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

adjusting a hardwired smoke detector
Alarms, , Electrical

Dear Angie: How often do I need to replace my hard-wired smoke detectors? And who should I hire to do this? Our 15-year-old system has five detectors. A few are chirping, and it doesn’t stop even when we replace the batteries. – Michael G., Benbrook, Texas

DVRs are a top Energy Vampire
Electrical, Appliance Sales

DVRs are the most diabolical of the many home appliances that use energy even when turned off.

ambient lighting
Lighting, Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

People often underestimate and overlook lighting when planning a space.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Portland

B

Rating
Provider was very nice. However, he did not put back electrical panel properly and several breakers were loosened. This caused our hot water heater to disconnect, costing us time with a plumber, only to find out it was electrical. The loosened breakers caused one of them to "arc" and burn out and then we have to pay another electrician to fix that. We learned that it could have started a fire at any time. Our electrical panel is older, but at no time did
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
tell us it was on a list of panels that are now considered dangerous if not maintained properly. So, our total costs really have ended up over $500 between the plumber call and new electrical service and new breaker.
- LORI C.
A

Rating
We had three ceiling fans to be installed. Each fan needed a new box installed as well. The service was professional and courteous. I would recommend using
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
and would use them again in the future.
- Dana L.
A

Rating
We were about to have the siding replaced on our house and the siding contractor mentioned that the service coming into the house appeared to be a mess and should be cleaned up to avoid unnecessary holes in the new siding.
We called
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
after checking Angie's List, and met with him within a couple days. He identified the problem outside the house, and also pointed out the need to replace the breaker panel (an old Pacific Electric panel that was too small and unsafe).
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
and his crew coordinated with the siding contractor and cleaned up the outside service mess, and replaced the panel. We also asked him to set up power for a hot tub. They were professional and worked quickly.
We would gladly work with
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
again and recommend him to others.
- Devon S.
A

Rating
There was a long delay in getting the estimate and I had to call multiple times. Once the work was scheduled however, the work went perfectly. The electricians were very nice, helpful, prompt and courteous. They gave me useful advice and followed up. Their service was stellar and their work passed inspections without a hitch.
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
and
Portland Electricians Provider Name Locked
both provided expert and exceptional service. I highly recommend this company and will use them in the future.

- pamla P.
F

Rating
I purchased a deal on 7/27 and did not hear back until 7/30 with a tentative week of scheduling. I responded on 7/31 and still have not received a response or been scheduled. I'm not sure why this vendor shows "purchase and be scheduled in the next 48 hours". Completely inaccurate and would like a refund on my deal.
- kimiko C.
A

Rating
The technician was very thorough and knowledgeable, I'm fairly versed in electrical work as well and this guy really knew what he was doing. I called at noon Monday and they were out Tuesday morning, I was very impressed with their responsiveness.
- Karen T.
A

Rating
It went great. The person providing the quote was very thorough and responsive. They were able to have a great crew in our offices within a week and the team onsite was very professional and asked questions to clarify many things instead of making assumptions. Would certainly use them again and highly recommend them.
- BONNEY P.
B

Rating
This required running PVC conduit under walk way. Contractor was not prepared for doing this. I had to provide tools and suggestions. It was a difficult job I admit. It took longer than four the 4 hours contracted and contractor didn't charge me. He then left the mess as is...with pieces of PVC laying around and my hose all over the walk.
- Joseph R.

Electricians in Portland

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

STUCK ELECTRIC INC

147 W MAIN ST
Sheridan

SUBSTATION TECHNICAL RESOURCES

3701 SE NAEF RD
Portland

suh & son mechanical

po box 6774
Portland

SUMITOMO ELECTRIC

7230 NW EVERGREEN PKWY
Hillsboro

SUN DOG CONSTRUCTION

Mt. Tabor. SE Portland.
Portland

Sun Glow Inc

2428 SE 105Th Ave
Portland

SUNDIAL ELECTRICAL SVC

1422 W POWELL BLVD
Gresham

SUNDOWN ELECTRIC CO

39675 NW VERBOORT RD
Forest Grove

SUNLIGHT ELECTRIC

2804 NE 65th Ave Ste D

Sunlight Solar Energy, Inc. (Portland)

402 S. Beavercreek Rd
Oregon City

Sunrun Inc

Portland

Sunset Air Inc

5210 Lacey Blvd

Sunset Builders LLC

16552 SW Sunset Blvd
Sherwood

Sunset Heating & Cooling Inc

0607 SW Idaho St
Portland

Sunset Solar Electric LLC

1535 NW 136th Ave.
Portland

Super Green Contracting

1514 SE 24th Cir
Troutdale

SUSAN EMMONS INSTALLATIONS

17 SE 3RD AVE
Portland

Swanson Construction Inc

PO BOX 1874
Sandy

SWENSON ELECTRIC

PO BOX 3141
Portland

Swich Electric

PO BOX 11233
Portland

SYLVANIA LIGHTING SVC

10796 SE HIGHWAY 212
Clackamas

Synergies Renovations LLC

3227 SE 56th Ave
Portland

T&K Mechanical

PO Box 116
Forest Grove

TALON ELECTRIC

3621 NE 148TH AVE

Tane Electric, llc

27014 NE 103rd ave

TATAL MECHANICAL

898 NW NORHTRUP ST
Portland

TCMS

1060 INDUSTRIAL WAY

TEAM ELECTRIC CO

9400 SE CLACKAMAS RD
Clackamas

Technocom Inc

7929 SW BURNS Way
Wilsonville

TEKTRONIX FUNDING CORP

26600 SW PARKWAY AVE
Wilsonville

TEKTRONIX INTERNATIONAL INC

14200 SW KARL BRAUN DR
Beaverton

TELEPHONE CONNECTION SVC

PO BOX 2075
Beaverton

TEMP COVERS INC

425 NE HANCOCK ST
Portland

Ten Day Kitchens LLC

6663 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy
Portland

Tesla Electric Company

2850 SW Cedar Hills Blvd
Beaverton

TEST PRODUCTS INTL

9615 SW ALLEN BLVD
Beaverton

TGL Construction LLC

9608 NE 59th Ave

the affordable home doctor

1586 SE Marion St
Portland

The Heat Pump Store

11933 NE Sumner St
Portland

THE WORKS

1303 SE 6th Ave
Portland

Thomas Hovland Home Maintenance

1717 SW Park Ave.
Portland

THOMPSON GRASS VALLEY

15655 SW GREYSTONE CT
Beaverton

THOR ELECTRIC

6016 NE 116TH ST

THREE PHASE ELECTRIC

493 NE 3RD AVE
Canby

THREE RIVERS ELECTRIC & CONSTR

PO BOX 1730
Clackamas

THUNDERBIRD ELECTRIC INC

1130 NE 75TH AVE
Portland

TICE ELECTRIC CO

5405 N LAGOON AVE
Portland

TIGER & SUSAN BRANCH CREATIVE

4104 SW PASADENA ST
Portland

TIM MILIGEN

Portland

Timber Creek Construction Inc

11350 SE 121st Ct
Happy Valley

TIMBERLINE ELECTRICAL CONTR

PO Box 918
Lake Oswego

TINITRON INC

5160 NW FIVE OAKS DR
Hillsboro

TITAN ELECTRIC

11114 SW 65th Ave
Portland

TODD'S LIGHTING & ELECTRICAL

19579 S KARI ANN CT
Oregon City

Tom Bishop Construction LLC

4578 SW 103rd Ave
Beaverton

Toms Electric

9610 Chance Rd
Tillamook

TONER CARTRIDGE RECYCLING SVC

41100 SE GORDON CREEK RD
Corbett

Total Car Care Centers

305 SW 1st Ave
Canby

TOTAL MARITIME SVC LTD

4475 SW SCHOLLS FERRY RD
Portland

TOTAL MECHANICAL

1499 SE TECH CENTER PL

TOTAL MECHANICAL INC

1498 SE Tech Center Pl Ste 180

TRADEMARK DEVELOPMENT

1724 NE 42nd Ave
Portland

TRAFFIC DETECTION

10985 SW CLUTTER RD
Sherwood

Trail Blazing Corporation

PO Box 703
Cornelius

TRANSOCEANIC CABLE SHIP CO

5555 N CHANNEL AVE
Portland

TREK ELECTRIC LLC

33085 ONNA WAY
Scappoose

TRI-CITY ELECTRIC

8395 S GRIBBLE RD
Canby

TRI-MOTOR & MACHINERY CO

24460 S HIGHWAY 99E
Canby

TRIAD MECHANICAL INC

2133 N ARGYLE ST
Portland

TRITEK/NORTHWEST TEST MSRMT

20449 SW TV HWY
Beaverton

Tualatin Valley Concrete

8950 SW Locust St
Portland

TURC ELECTRIC

29191 Fm 306

Turnkey Construction LLC

4207 NE 8th Ave
Portland

Unfettered Renovations

13030 S Freeman Rd
Mulino

Unique Construction Co

7714 NE 128th Ave

URBAN ELECTRIC

6645 SW 89th Pl
Portland

Urban K. Hutchins Construction

54 SE 78th Ave
Portland

VALLEY ELECTRIC CO LLC

19707 GRANT RD
Monmouth

VANCOUVER HANDYMAN LLC

1307 NE 95th Ave

Vanguard Electric, Inc.

3800 Morris St.
Newberg

Verdant Construction and Design LLC

4334 NE 77th Ave
Portland

VIKING ELECTRIC

4326 SE WOODSTOCK BLVD
Portland

VILARDI ELECTRIC

PO BOX 1200
Rainier

VINTAGE HOMES NW

15735 NW St Andrews Dr
Portland

VISION SECURITY SVC

29030 SW TOWN CTR LOOP E 202
Wilsonville

Volt Electric

13241 SE Holgate
Portland

VPE Electrical Services

8317 NE 126th Ave.

WADE ELEC SALES & SVC

13609 SE 20TH CIR

WAGSTAFF BATTERY & SVC

16285 SW 85TH AVE
Portland

WAGSTAFF BATTERY & SVC INC

16968 Gassner Ln
Lake Oswego

WALLACE L RAINEY

PO BOX 1682
Beaverton

WALTER HORN

Portland

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WATLOW ELECTRIC

6915 SW ARRANMORE WAY
Portland

WATTS HEATING & COOLING

580 PORTLAND AVE
Gladstone

WCI CABLE

921 SW WASHINGTON ST
Portland

WCI CABLE

19720 NW TANASBOURNE DR
Hillsboro

WESCO DISTRIBUTING INC

2345 NW 31ST AVE
Portland

West Side Electric Co Inc

1834 SE 8th Ave
Portland

WESTCON INC

14058 SW MILTON CT
Portland

WESTERN CASCADE ELECTRIC INC

PO Box 23124
Portland

WESTERN OREGON BUILDERS

PO BOX 97220
Portland

Wilcox Electric

100 E 19th St Ste 140

WILD WOOD LIGHTING

3439 NE SANDY BLVD
Portland

WILLAMETTE ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 230547
Portland

WILLAMETTE VALLEY ELEC CONSTR

416 S TRADE ST
Amity

WILLCO

920 SE Caruthers St
Portland

Wilson Electric

2700 ne 199th nst

WINNER ELECTRIC CONSTRUCTION INC

5950 SW PROSPERITY PARK RD
Tualatin

Wire Nuts Inc

Portland

Wire Rite Electric Inc

177707 NE 72nd Ave

WIRED RIGHT

2445 SW ROXBURY AVE
Portland

WM. D. Herboth Remodeling Inc.

6006 NE Rodney Ave
Portland

WOODLAND ELECTRIC

1823 SCHURMAN WAY

XTREME COMMUNICATIONS INC

24023 NE SHEA LN
Troutdale

Young Electric

9999 SW Wilshire St
Portland

ZAPP ELECTRIC INC

8821 NE SANDY BLVD
Portland

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