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A
"Overall, it went pretty well. The video provided looked like the work was well done and complete. There are no complaints in terms of the work performed. I was" not happy about how they treated my property. Gates were left open, the moved heavy landscape materials and didn't put it back.Gloves were left behind and equipment was left behind in the street without warning. There was an emergency elsewhere and he needed to leave, but the communicate to me was very poor. Despite the low professionalism - I would still use them again. The office staff was great and kept everything under control and moving. A Good Company!

-Evelyn K.

A
"The plumber showed up on time, reviewed my expectations, explained the time and materials billing process and estimated how much time it would take. I said "GO"" right away. In just 4 hours, my leaks are gone and my plumbing looks and works better than ever.

-Pete M.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com

Drain Cleaning reviews in Portland

F

Rating
arrived on 9/23 to unclog our drains. The technicians went to work and to their understanding unclogged the drains, but were unable to confirm this as they did not use a video scope. The technicians were at the house for less than an hour and Grumpy’s charged $517.00 for this work. During the next week we began to still ...More have issues (toilets not flushing, tub not draining), and called to reschedule, which Grumpy’s did as the technician stated the work was guaranteed. had to cancel the first return trip (prior to October 9th) at their request as a job they were on ran longer than expected. I rescheduled for October 9th, but had to reschedule for October 13th at my request. On Sunday October 11th our drains backed up and sewage went into our driveway. I called Grumpy’s on October 11th and they called back, but they were unable to do the work. I called a second company I found on the internet that was open on Sundays. The company came out, video scoped our drains, pinpointed and assessed the clogged drains, unclogged the drains and cleaned up the sewage in our driveway for $388.66. Based on the second company’s feedback, Grumpy’s Drains only unclogged the drain 1/4 of the way.
The facts: On 9/23 Grumpy’s did not properly a**** our drain issue and therefore did not fix the drain issue 100% resulting in me hiring a second company. I asked for a refund, and based on Grumpy’s feedback, they felt they had no liability based on the following; Grumpy’s stated that our drains were clear on October 23rd, we rescheduled, and if they would have been able to come out on October 9th the drains would have been cleared. Also, and since it was my request to reschedule for after October 9th, it was not their issue. I would point out that had to cancel one return trip prior to October 9th as they were not able to leave a job. I do not feel that assessed the plumbing issue the first time around and started and left the job without knowing if the drains were completely clear. Grumpy’s did not use a video scope and the second company did in order to confirm where the clogged drains were and that they were clear. The second company stated that Grumpy’s only cleared the drains 1/4 of the way, and did not do a complete job.
Costs: Grumpy’s charged $517 for less than an hour of work in attempting to clear our drains. The second company video scoped our drains, assessed where the clogged drains were, cleared the drains, confirmed the issue was resolved and cleaned up the sewage in the driveway for $388.66. The second company is a national company, and is known for being more expensive. This leads me to believe that Grumpy’s took advantage us based on the neighborhood we live in, and overcharged us.

- Tim S.
A

Rating
He showed up at the time he stated. He was friendly, helpful and knowledgeable about the drain, he knew exactly what to do to fix the problem.I called him around 10am. He was at my house by 1:30pm, the time he stated on the phone.He was quick, he did not leave a mess and gave me a 30 guarantee on his work. I would use him again. I am very pleased.
- Mary H.
A

Rating
came out twice, first to unclog our tub, which proved to be impossible. He spent almost 2 hours at it before he conceded defeat to our old pipes. Then we had him replace the section of pipe that was clogged and couldn't be snaked. He left the place clean and tidy, and everything works great.
- Nerissa L.
A

Rating
I found on here, called him, and he and his assistant made it out the same day in the late afternoon, and within the time period he said he would. They worked quickly, answered my numerous questions, and cleaned up the mess before they left.
I've got his phone # on my fridge now, and will be calling him out once ...More a year to do a cleaning so that I don't get any more surprises.

- Gregory P.
A

Rating
He worked super hard, for well over two hours, on rain drain pipes that were completely clogged with roots. That kind of persistence is rare. Great job!
- David J.
C

Rating
He didn't show up, came two days later and couldn't complete job, came again and unplugged the tub but it barely worked! He offered to come back and unclog any other household drain for free but I didn't even want him around.
- Deborah H.
A

Rating
It went great. He went right to work, did the job and didn't make a mess. I had also just purchased a kitchen faucet that I hadn't had a to install myself. I had just had a baby a few weeks prior and didn't see it getting done any other way, so he installed it for us for $150. It turned out to be more work that ...More he had anticipated, due to a number of factors that I can't remember, but he powered through it. I have been thinking about calling him again to do the faucet in my bathroom as well.
- Lauren K.
A

Rating
not only was able to provide service faster than others I called(by several days) he was also the most reasonably priced. Nice guy too. Would definitely use again.
- dara P.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Portland

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

2Students Haulin & Landscape Maintenance

19495 SW Gassner Rd
Beaverton

3 Mountains Plumbing

524 N. Tillamook St
Portland

A & B Septic Service

101 41st Ave SE
Albany

A.C.S. Northwest

6028 se 51st ave

A1 Plumbing, Inc

1940 McGilchrist St SE
Salem

Able Heating & Cooling LLC

16285 SW 85th Ave
Tigard

Ackerman Plumbing Services

7493 SE Overland St
Portland

Advanced Plumbing LLC

PO Box 593
Portland

Affordable Remodeling LLC

7967 Mykala Street NE
Salem

Affordable Septic Service

PO Box 30087
Portland

Alf Solutions

9530 SW 6th Ave
Portland

ALL IN ONE PLUMBING INC

16321 Southeast Hillside Lane
Portland

All Pro Plumbing Services LLC

15712 NW Overton Dr
Beaverton

All Star Plumbing and Drains

420 Dewey St
Oregon City

Alliance Plumbing

146 SW West Columbia River Highway
Troutdale

ALOHA SANITARY SERVICE

8600 SW HILLSBORO HWY
Hillsboro

AMERICAN DRAIN CLEANING

12303 SE 80TH AVE
Portland

American Plumbing Services LP

5905 N Interstate Ave
Portland

Anctil Plumbing Inc

16900 SW Merlo Rd
Beaverton

Apollo Drain & Rooter Service

2208 NW Birdsdale Ave
Gresham

Apollo Drain & Rooter Service, Inc

2208 NW Birdsdale Ave, Suite 8
Gresham

Aquarian Plumbing

14674 NW Cornell Road
Portland

Aquifer Plumbing LLC

9293 SW North Dakota St
Portland

B&Js Handyman Services Portland

8520 SE Woodstock Blvd
Portland

BEASON PLUMBING

1701 BROADWAY ST
Portland

BEAVERTON PLUMBING INC

13980 SW TUALATIN VALLEY HWY
Beaverton

Best Price Plumbing & Drain

4130 SW 117th Ave
Beaverton

Black Cat Plumbing Inc

8230 SE 72nd Ave
Portland

Bluestone & Hockley Maintenance

9320 SW Barbur Blvd.
Portland

Bruner Plumbing Inc

PO Box 23985
Portland

BURFITT PLUMBING INC

16013 NE 81st Street

CAD Construction LLC

4220 NE 122nd Ave
Portland

Carsten Plumbing & Rooter

13616 SE 155th Dr
Clackamas

Cascade Plumbing Co.

15765 SW 74th Ave Ste 110
Portland

Cascadia Plumbing LLC

455 SW 18th St
Troutdale

Casey's Plumbing Inc

PO Box 30075
Portland

Cheshier Plumbing

34798 SE Coupland Rd
Estacada

Choice Home Warranty

1090 King Georges Post Rd

Clog Busters LLC

2900 SW Cornelius Pass Rd
Hillsboro

CNW CONSTRUCTION INC.

15140 SE 82nd Dr.
Clackamas

Columbia Drain Co

po box 65668

Craig Anderson Plumbing Inc

2730 SE 15th Ave
Portland

CROWN PLUMBING

5429 SE FRANCIS ST
Portland

CYRUS CONSTRUCTION INCORPERATED

443 NE NORTON LN
Mcminnville

D & F Plumbing Co

4636 N Albina Ave
Portland

David E. Logue Construction

3564 SW. Hillside dr
Portland

David Loggins, LLC.

489 S. 17th St.
Saint Helens

DEAN POTTLE PLUMBING

4714 NE FREMONT
Portland

Detemple Co Inc Plumbing Heating & Air

1951 NW Overton St
Portland

DeWitt Home Improvement

19605 NE 232ne Ave

DLH PLUMBING

255 Count Fleet Rd

DRAIN AWAY ROOTER

PO BOX 446
Gladstone

DRAINS 4 LESS

PO BOX 68816
Portland

E & J CONSTRUCTION LLC,

3535 NE SIMPSON ST.
Portland

Elite Plumbing Incorporated

6023 SE Nehalem St
Portland

Encore Facilities Management

8166 SW Durham Rd
Portland

EXCELLENCE PLUMBING, LLC

7913 SW Nimbus Ave
Beaverton

Flow-Rite Plumbing

Beaverton, OR
Beaverton

Garden Home Plumbing & Drain

6725 SW Florence Ln
Portland

Gator Plumbing

6515 SE Clatsop St.
Portland

GOODMAN SANITATION INC

931 NE HARLOW PL
Troutdale

GORMLEY PLUMBING + MECHANICAL

1715 NE LAFAYETTE AVE
Mcminnville

Grumpy's Drains

14428 NE Failing St.
Portland

GruntWorks by HouseHappy

380 NW 13th Ave.
Portland

Hall Plumbing

2800 SE 118 Ave
Portland

Hammer and Wrench PDX

9834 SE Linwood Ave
Milwaukie

Hawthorne Plumbing, LLC

1825 SE 55th Ave
Portland

Home Heroes

19630 SW 90th Ct
Tualatin

HPS Pipe & Supply

598 Baseline St
Cornelius

In Your Home

16869 SW 65th Ave
Lake Oswego

Jacobs Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc.

4474 SE Milwaukie Ave
Portland

JAW Construction Inc

Po Box 2476
Gresham

JAY JAY'S PLUMBING INC

19947 E BURNSIDE ST
Portland

JNM Plumbing, LLC

28150 S Meridian Rd
Aurora

Joe Adrian Repair & Remodeling

4216 N Gantenbein Ave
Portland

John D Plumbing

7472 SW Fir St
Portland

Johns Landing Plumbing

P.O. Box 69195
Portland

Justin Bolstad

3561 SE Long St.
Portland

K Brothers Plumbing

617 SE 10th St

Kennedy Plumbing Inc

13985 SW Farmington Road
Beaverton

Knight Plumbing LLC

PO Box 751
Gladstone

KTP PLUMBING

8455 SW Homewood St
Portland

Lanphere Construction & Development

13625 SW Farmington Road
Beaverton

LEONARD'S PLUMBING & CONSTRUCTION

14310 SE CRYSTAL CT
Portland

LIBERTY PLUMBING

11124 NE HALSEY
Portland

Litch Plumbing Inc

PO Box 2756
Oregon City

Living Water Plumbing Inc

39234 Cascadia Village Dr
Sandy

LOVETT Inc

PO Box 86280
Portland

M P Plumbing Co

15330 SE 82nd Dr
Clackamas

M5 Plumbing Services llc

14304 NE 52nd St

MACNSONS CONSTRUCTION INC

7888 SE 46TH AVE
Portland

Malmedal Plumbing, Inc.

P.O. Box 207
Banks

Masterworks Plumbing

PO Box 16821
Portland

MCCOY PLUMBING INC

27255 NW Dorland Rd
North Plains

MD Plumbing LLC

939 sw willowcreek dr
Beaverton

Meoak Contracting LLC

16491 Hiram AVe

Meticulous Plumbing

11918 NE Sumner St
Portland

Mick's Plumbing

7331 N Hurst Ave.
Portland

MIKE PATTERSON PLUMBING INC

P.O. Box 850
Gladstone

Miller Residential Services

15055 se Thornton Drive
Portland

MJ'S Plumbing

10310 NE MARX ST
Portland

MLP Plumbing Co

4505 SW 194 Court
Beaverton

MRP SERVICES

PO BOX 33585
Portland

Nadean's Custom Plumbing

19376 Leland Road
Oregon City

Nelson Plumbing

8360 SW Mohawk St
Tualatin

Nichols Plumbing

PO Box 68551
Portland

Nodak Construction

6535 NW 170th Ave
Portland

North's Plumbing, II LLC

3960 SW 173 Rd
Beaverton

NORTHWEST PLUMBING & DRAIN SERVICE INC

16630 SW WRIGHT ST
Beaverton

NW Home Services LLC

6941 SE BIXEL WAY
Milwaukie

OC BOHEMIA CONSTRUCTION

2103 NE 349 th st

Pacific Crest Plumbing & Remodeling

1810 SE 104th Ave
Portland

Paramount Plumbing Co

7127 SE Mabel Ave
Portland

Pavel's Tile Llc

2900 General Anderson rd

PGC LLC

P O Box 220179
Portland

PIPE IT PLUMBING

2229 NE BURNSIDE ST
Gresham

PIPELINE PLUMBING

333 S STATE ST
Lake Oswego

Piper Mechanical, Inc

9317 NE 72nd Ave

Portland Plumbing Plus

6819 SE 82nd Avenue
Portland

POSITIVE PLUMBING

17676 SW Sarala St
Beaverton

POWER PLUMBING

6611 SW MULTNOMAH BLVD
Portland

Precision Plumbing

10569 Northwest Lost Park Drive
Portland

PREMIER PLUMBING

20 SW 131ST AVE
Beaverton

ProDrain & Rooter Service

3300 NW 185th Ave
Portland

ProServ Oregon

22115 NW Imbrie Dr. #227
Hillsboro

Puddletown Plumbing LLC

4643 SE 52nd Ave
Portland

R D PLUMBING INC

13900 NW SPRINGVILLE RD
Portland

Rainforest Plumbing

2594 NE Beech Ave
Gresham

Ranieri Plumbing

2229 NE Burnside St.
Gresham

RC PLUMBING LLC

PO Box 123
Portland

Rescue Rooter

12430 SE Capps Rd
Clackamas

RIVER CITY ENVIRONMENTAL INC

5410 NE 105th ave
Portland

ROBERTSON PLUMBING

PO BOX 1329
Boring

Rose City Plumbing

8930 SW Homewood ST
Portland

Roth Heating & Cooling

6990 S Anderson St
Aurora

Roto-Rooter Group Inc - Wilsonville

25599 SW 95th Ave
Wilsonville

ROYAL FLUSH PLUMBING

PO BOX 507
Beavercreek

RUPP FAMILY CONSTRUCTION , INC

29030 SW Town Center Loop E
Wilsonville

Sarkinen Plumbing

9502 NE 72nd Ave

Service Plumber Hillsboro

160 SE Washington St
Hillsboro

Sharon Caldwell Designer Cleaning

201 Bina Drive
Newberg

Sharpe Plumbing

PO Box 23335
Portland

SHAWNZ' PLUMBING LLC

15051 SE Bluff Rd
Sandy

Sherwood Plumbing Company

22718 Sw Martin ct.
Sherwood

Signature Plumbing Services

5910 Duniway Ave.
Gladstone

Simpson Plumbing, LLC

24605 NE 14th St

SOS Plumbing Inc

8565 SW 80th Avenue
Portland

SPEEDY SEPTIC

PO BOX 1260
Boring

Standard Plumbing & Heating Co

8318 SW Spruce St.
Portland

Summerson Plumbing

15310 NE 81st Way

Sutherland Plumbing LLC

6765 SW 213th Ave
Aloha

TECHNICAL PLUMBING INC

403 E VALLEY ST

Terry Massey Plumbing

12949 SE Rusk Rd.
Milwaukie

The Plumbers Inc

8900 SW Burnham St
Portland

The Unplugger

5335 SE 104th Ave
Portland

Titan Plumbing & Mechanical LLC

PO Box 1803
Clackamas

Tradesmen Plumbing Inc

16486 SE 135th
Clackamas

United Plumbing

245 Northwest Blaine Lane
Gresham

Waterboy Plumbing & Drain

1600 NE 137th Ave
Lake Oswego

Watts Heating & Cooling

580 Portland Ave
Gladstone

West Side Drain

PO Box 1050
Gaston

Wolfer's Heating & AC

1365 N Front St
Woodburn

Woodburn Plumbing, Inc

3311 SE McKever Road

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