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"Nick was fantastic. We just purchased an old home in and I realized at 9 AM that a copper pipe in the basement had sprung a leak. I called" based on their Angie's List reviews and answered the phone. She was calm and patient and arranged for Nick to come out within the hour with no emergency service call charge. Nick replaced two long runs of corroded copper pipe quickly, efficiently, and for a very reasonable price. When I inspected his work at the end of the job, it was extremely high quality and well thought out. He cleaned up such that it looked like he hadn't even been there. Would definitely recommend for all plumbing jobs!

-Paul S.

"Showed up promptly, checked and diagnosed, offered quote that was significantly lower than others received. Main sewer line from house to street had a section that" settled and was causing drain backups. Plumber called in help and had problem fixed that same day. I had a commitment that required I be out of town when repair was finished so it was several days until I could see the end result. All drains drained and toilets flushed well. Only issue I had was they'd cut through the drip line main line and the repair hadn't held so water had leaked pretty badly over the week until I returned. The sinkhole that was created by the underground leak wasn't hard to find and fixed it myself. When contract for repair was signed it does absolve them from landscaping issues so I didn't call to complain. Otherwise, a good job done very quickly at easily 1/2 the price that other plumbers had quoted.

-Robert W.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.


If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.


Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.


As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.



Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Phoenix


H&K Plumbing to the rescue again! H&K Plumbing had previously replaced my Solar Hot Water Heater and Solar Panels and had done all the necessary plumbing work association with this project.
had done such an excellent job I hired him immediately to "fix" 30 years worth of other people's "DIY ...More Plumbing" that had been done before I purchased my house. re-plumbed all the outdoor plumbing and fixtures, repaired and re-plumbed my outdoor pool shower, and repaired my outdoor sprinkler system to get it working again.
H&K Plumbing and once again did an excellent job. I was extremely pleased. Again, it was high quality work, craftsmanship and pride, and all at a reasonable price. I would be very difficult to find a better plumber and craftsman than . He is my plumber for life!
- Keith N.

is the ONE AND ONLY company that I will ever use when it comes to anything related to my home both for exterior and interior work. Believe me, it isn't an easy thing for a company to get my "Ultimate Seal of Approval," but earned it and then some!
was referred ...More to me by my Realtor. It was an excellent referral. I am extremely pleased with both the quality of the work and the customer service. acted as both my Contractor and my General Contractor. They performed both very well. The work they did as my Contractor was done with attention to detail and in a timely manner. The Sub-Contractors used by were also excellent. holds their Sub-Contractors to the same high quality of work and customer service that provides. Great work, reasonable price, excellent customer service, and both and have great senses of humor which helped to make the whole process fun. If you’re going to work with Contractors I figure you might as well like them too!
performed the work on my house resulting from the 2010 Hail Storm. They were doing such an excellent job on the part of the work covered by my Homeowner’s Insurance that I expanded the scope of the work to include self-pay projects. This was the first time I had gone through the experience of having my house “under siege” for demolition work, repair, and home improvement. To say that I found it to be a bit stressful would be an understatement. Both and were superb in providing me a little extra “hand holding” as the work was done. This made a large impact on me as I find that so few service providers are willing to go the extra mile and provide personalized attention. Additionally, I tend towards being a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to attention to detail. Again, went the extra mile and made sure that my concerns were addressed throughout the process. Finally, and their Sub-Contractors provided something that is so valuable and often so rare to find – Craftsmanship and pride in their work.
I was so pleased with the outcome of this project that I have hired them again and am currently in the process of a pool remodeling project. I have no doubt I will be just as pleased with the outcome of this project too!
- Keith N.

It went good -thought he acted in a hurry-repairs didn't last =told him pie washer drained into leaked -he put in a new one-and said my pip need snaked out-didn't take very long-but about 2 mos later same problem again-water all over was room when using washer and water backs up into kitchen sink.==why is my address listed under ...More at top of this page-my address is 1017 East Lane -85020

Contractor did not complete work. Basically walked off job. Left main water line to house furnished through garden hose and did not complete any above ground plumbing for new addition. Had to hire another plumber to finish work for an additional $7000.

This is THE BEST PLUMBER and plumbing company I have ever worked with! O is an experienced professional of the first order. He is professional, prompt, a great communicator and gives options. Best of all he does not give up on old houses that need that extra problem solving of experienced plumbers who have years of working on ...More Quirky OLD NEGLECTED houses! The owner Mr. even came out to my house to lend a hand on the estimate since the job needed to be done in phases because we were living in the house. The timing was crucial also because we had to have mold remediation and also found termites! stuck with me throughout the process and the job was done perfectly, I have supervised many home renovations and this was certainly unanticipated but Made it much less stressful!!!!! I think I will be calling "The Pipe Whisperer" again!!!!!
- mary F.

We have used Empire for several years. They have always been prompt and courteous. We are on their monthly payment plan so we get reduced rates if we have a plumbing or heating or AC problem, and then the inspection and cleaning of the AC units are paid for by the time of their inspection each year. This year a drain was installed on the hot water heater, ...More so we had a small bill. When we had a major pipe leak about 4 years ago, they were able to help us quickly and professionally.
- Denise L.

Scheduling was great. The staff answering the phone at were very nice. It was easy to get the appointment scheduled. The tech arrived on time. He was a very pleasant person. He explained what he was doing and why. He was efficient. It didn't take long before my water was flowing again as desired. Because he was so ...More willing to talk about what he was doing, I asked about other services I could use. I was particularly interested in replacing one or more toilets. He gave me information and suggestions and ballpark prices and told me to call the office for a quote. I liked what I heard and liked the service I had received so I called. The staff were pleasant once again--but the quote I received was signficantly higher than what I was told by the tech.
- allan E.

Our sewer line was blocked for the third time this year. It was time for further diagnosis and repair. The Cobra tech came within 30 minutes to unclog our sewer line. He described the restrictions, approximate location, and nature of the problem after making sure it was clear. He recommended that we get the line scoped with a camera to see inside the ...More line. The owner came out a week later with the camera and thoroughly scoped the line all the way to the city connection. Although the clog was cleared, he could see where the line had a breach and internal damage.
I hired my lawn maintenance crew to excavate the sewer line from around the three uprights, about 8 feet. Our nearby tree had many roots in the area, including one large "main" root. We could see that the sewer pipe was broken in one place and roots were getting in.
The owner came out to replace the sewer pipe. The original pipe was not installed according to plumbing code -- by the home developer! It is likely that the break resulted from incorrect original installation. So the owner corrected that problem in addition to replacing a 4-foot section. He was very thorough and tested the line before leaving. His final comment: "You have the best product for sewer lines and it is solid now. You will not likely have a problem ever again."
The pricing was very fair, sticking to the quote even though more work was required than expected! I appreciate having everything done in a short time. As a side note, the office help needs to return calls, since they failed to call me back twice!
My lawn guys returned to restore my lawn and remove the invasive tree.
- Cheri H.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Phoenix

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

24 7 Water Conditioning & Plumbing

11780 North 91st Ave

3D Contracting LLC.

3020 N. 33rd Drive

A Able Handyman Services

3853 W. Brown St.

ABC Plumbing and Rooter

284 E Chilton Dr #1

Above All Plumbing Services

2011 E Apaches Blvd

Abracadabra Landscape Corp

PO Box 28
Litchfield Park

Ac Plus Services L.L.C.

2995 S 159 TH LANE

Access Home Repair

3936 E Desert Cove Ave

Accure Contracting

16801 W Toronto Way

AGE Landscape

PO BOX 10981
Casa Grande

Alexander's Plumbing

3961 E Chandler Blvd

Allied Plumbing Co.

12514 W Rosewood DR
El Mirage

American Made Remodeling LLC

7762 North 51st Lane

Amigo Rooter & Plumbing of Arizona

3947 N 146th Dr

Anthony's Plumbing Inc.

9508 West Taylor St.

API Plumbing Inc

4070 W Clarendon Ave.

Apple Plumbing

3370 N Hayden Rd

Atta Boy Plumbing LLC

4502 E. Indian School Road #202

AZ Preferred PLumbing LLC

2573 S Rincon DR

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing

355 E Warner Rd

Big City Plumbing & Service

21027 S 221st Pl
Queen Creek

Bigelow Pool Consulting

7535 E McLellan Rd

BK Plumbing & Bath LLC

PO Box 9096

Blue Collar Plumbing, LLC

8105 E Des Moines St

Boydco Plumbing Inc

1601 W Sequoia Dr

Bumble Bee Plumbing

4410 W Union Hills Dr


8940 West Windsor

By The Hour

28039 N 77th St


1645 W Indianola Ave

Casey Plumbing LLC.

1933 E. Dana Ave.

Cobra Rooter & Plumbing Service

3928 E Meadowbrook Ave

Collins Commercial Services

16413 North 91st Street

Conquest Construction

1210 N Arbor Ave
Casa Grande

CopperState Plumbing

1067 N. Bluejay Dr.

Creative Landscape Designs

3927 W Anderson Dr

Crowley Construction Co., Inc.


Crystal Clear Plumbing, LLC

3215 N Arizona Ave

DA-Nite Construction Handyman Services LLC

7130 W Shaw Butte Dr.

Deer Valley Plumbing Contractors Inc

7558 W Thunderbird Rd

DeMiguel Plumbing

3729 w wethersfield rd


13413 N 78TH ST

Desert Environments Landscape & Design

6036 E Surrey Ave

Desert Handyman Services

6526 W West Wind Dr

Detail Builders

19119 E Sunnydale Dr
Queen Creek

Don Jones Plumbing

7593 W Ocotillo Rd

done right plumbing

125 w 2nd ave apt 1


738 S Perry Ln

DXR Construction & Roofing

17281 N 57th Dr

Dynamic Plumbing

38241 N 3rd Street

Eco 360 Solutions, Inc

1815 W 1st Ave ste 107

Eco 360 Solutions, Inc

7009 W Sack Dr.

Edge Stone Construction

3087 N 83rd Pl

Emergency Plumbing, LLC.

17826 N 11th Avenue

ERC Emergency Repairs & Construction

929 N. Val Vista Dr. Ste.C-109`152

Ervin's Sons Landscaping CO

1480 W Runion dr

Fresh Start Remodeling Inc

13794 W Waddell Rd 203-190

GAD Contracting LLC

35 S 95th St

GasCan Graphics/S&S Restoration

4546 E Shapinsay Dr
San Tan Valley

General Contracting & Maintenance Companies

4716 N. Perryville Road
Litchfield Park

Golden Rule Plumbing, LLC

475 S Meridian Rd
Apache Junction

H & K Plumbing

6508 W Becker Ln

Halls plumbing and drain

7412 s Linda Lou rd

Handyman Connection - Phoenix

10211 N 32nd St

Handyman Service

201 S Greenfield Rd #91


525 W Tamarisk st

Hawk Builders, LLC

6040 N. 7th St .

Heavy Duty Handymans

12440 N. 20th St

Horton Plumbing Company, Inc.

PO Box 5177

J & H Plumbing LLC

3015 N Norfolk

J. I. Plumbing, LLC

615 W Chilton St

Joda Handy Man Services

5809 N 8th Pl

John Sanford

76 W Windsor Ave

Justright Handyman Services

8046 N. 19th Dr.

JW Plumbing, LLC

16133 E Glenpoint Dr
Fountain Hills

Ken Bradley Corp.

2916 E. Bloomfield Rd.

Keystone Repair and Maintenance

19139 W Thomas Rd
Litchfield Park

King Plumbing Heating & AC

1960 E Calle De Arcos



L & B Homeworks LLC

3420E union Hills drive

LAS Energies

21804 N 36th Ln

Laszlos Plumbing Co

2522 W Charter Oak Rd

Leak Dr Plumbing LLC

865 E Rojo Ct

Levario Builders

718 S. 112th Ave

Levelup Enterprises, Inc.

18862 N. 62nd. Drive

Luxe Builders, LLC

4450 E Coyote Wash Dr
Cave Creek

MagCor Construction

8711 E Pinnacle Peak Road

Martin Juarez Plumbing Services

3128 W. Gelding Dr

Mastercraft Plumbing Service

16845 N 29th Ave

Max Service"s

602 N May unit 52

Mike Davis Plumbing and Rooter LLC

402 e Hondo ave
Apache Junction

Monkey Wrench Plumbing LLC.

PO BOX 6327

Moon Valley Plumbing

PO Box 72495

Mountain Ridge Construction

6635 W. Happy Valley Rd

Mr Plumber/Scottsdale Home Service Plumbing

16211 N. Scottsdale Rd. A-6-A

MTR Builders Inc

28316 N 92nd Place

Newtech Plumbing LLC

320 E 10th Drive

Nu Flow Phoenix

3660 E. Bridgeport Pkwy.

One Good Plumber

8107 E Whitton Ave

One Stop Home Services

1660 N. Rosemont

Onsite Plumbing LLC

4524 W Crosswater Way


3025 Fairmount Ave

Paar Plumbing

PO Box 22200

Pacific Team Builders LLC

3042 S Seton Ave

Paradise Plumbing & Gas LLC

16406 N 114th Dr

Paramount Plumbing LLC

650 S Sierra

Parker & Sons

3636 E Anne St

Paul's Handyman Service LLC

11215 W Monterosa St

Perfect Fix Home Repair

2853 W Cactus Wren ST
Apache Junction

Phoenix Irrigation Services

428 E. Thunderbird Rd #213


PO Box 36396

plumbing & drain masters

19216 N Joy Ln
Sun City

Plumbing Masters LLC

9299 W Olive Ave


75 W Baseline Rd Ste 30

Poseidon Plumbing a rapid rooter company

23425 N 39th Drive

Precision Air Heating Inc

3045 N Colorado St

Premier Service Plumbing LLC

13051 W. Via Camille Dr.
El Mirage

Prince Pumping and Services

15402 N 28th St

Provision Construction LLC.

24654 N.Lake Pleasant Pkwy

Quickrepair and Renovation llc

12310 w Columbine dr
El Mirage

Reddi Services

12268 N 92nd Dr

Republic Roofing Inc.

2853 S. Pennington St.

RJR Renovations

4420 E Bighorn Ave

Robins Plumbing Inc

PO Box 5610

Rooter 1 Plumbing

511 S. Higley Rd.

Rooter Hero Plumbing

3414 S 48th St Ste 9109

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Service

7250 W Frier Dr

Roybal Underground Utilities LLC

45313 W Portabello Rd

Scottsdale Handy Man

28150 N. Alma School Pkwy

Second Opinion Plumbing

1556 s chaparral blvd

Serenity Plumbing

5442 E Flower St


P.O. Box 6352

SPL Plumbing Services LLC

3833 W Villa Theresa Dr

Sterling Services

7256 S 89th Place

Stoneridge Plumbing

PO Box 91046

Sunstate Plumbing, Inc.

11051 N 132nd Avenue

Sustain Scape

8040 E Morgan Trl

The Leak Detector

10847 w Olive av

The Sunny Plumber

1845 W 1st St

Trade Masters

5338 E Danbury Rd

Tutko Plumbing LLC

14810 N 2nd Ave



Varela's Plumbing

228 W. Aspen Ave

WJ Maloney Plumbing Co

9119 N 7th St

Zippy Zebra Plumbing LLC

PO Box 20071

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