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and his team did an excellent job on our complete master bathroom renovation. They exceeded our expectations, stuck to their quoted amount" and provided great value for the cost. We went with a
marble mosaic tile floor, bead board on the walls and subway tile around our new bathtub. We would highly recommend
and will likely use them again if we need other work done.

-Michael B.

"I called on a Tuesday and they could not get out till Friday they said. Fine for me, cause it wasn't an emergency. I then got a call at 7:30am on Friday that" they were too booked up, couldn't make it now and could they come Tuesday. NOT COOL. I'll use someone who sticks to their schedule and can get here more promptly.


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Local Articles in Philadelphia

4 common plumbing scams and how to avoid them

Some plumbers are in the business just to make a quick buck. Here are four of the most common plumbing scams to watch out for and how to avoid them.

Hiring a Plumber

When you need a plumber, especially for an expensive project for which you have time to plan, make sure you hire one who is fully qualified and licensed in your state. A plumber may be an apprentice, a journeyman or a highly qualified master plumber, depending on the level of training and experience.


Angie Hicks, founder of Angie’s List, answers a member question about the benefits of trenchless sewer line replacement.

When leaning over a bathroom sink to perform normal grooming tasks, make sure to cover the sink drain so nothing falls in. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roger H. of Paw Paw, Michigan)
Plumbing, Plumbing - Drain Cleaning

If your bathroom sink is draining slowly but the tub and toilet drain normally, there are several possible causes. Try these steps before hiring a plumber.

(Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Michele P. of Fresno, California)
Plumbing, Plumbing - Drain Cleaning

Does your toilet gurgle? Are you hearing a "glug glug" sound? Have it checked out; a noisy toilet often signals a blockage in your residential plumbing system.

gas fireplace with fire burning
Fireplaces, Chimney Sweep, Plumbing

Dear Angie: How much can I expect to pay to have my wood fireplace converted to gas? Our house is about 30 years old. The bottom of the fireplace looks like it's easily accessed through the basement. The conversion would involve running 30 to 50 feet of gas line. — Thomas M., Cincinnati, Ohio

Inspiration & Ideas

garden tub with tile surround
Macauba Quartzite countertops
new kitchen tile backsplash
shower with ceramic tile
double-bowl stainless steel sink
copper apron-front sink

Angie's Answers


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Plumbing reviews in Philadelphia


I had a great experience with
Philadelphia Plumbers Provider Name Locked
! I called on Tuesday for a clogged bathroom sink and they were able to fit my schedule with a Thursday afternoon appointment. A clogged bathroom sink isn't exactly an emergency, so I was impressed they could fit me in so quickly. They gave me a time frame of 12 - 4 and our plumber showed up around 12:20 (after calling at 12 to tell me he was in the area and would arrive in about 20 minutes). He cleaned out our bathroom sink in no time and all and even showed me how to fix the running toilet myself (which I had not called about, but asked about when he arrived). Our plumber was polite, professional, and quick! He answered all of my questions without making me feel silly. $120 might be a little on the high side for a clogged sink, but I will gladly pay for good service. I would definitely use
Philadelphia Plumbers Provider Name Locked
- Kelley T.


The provider was very pleasant and informative. He checked out everything in the cellar and the connection into the house. Additionally, he replaced a couple of switches that were problematic.
- Elizabeth S.

A sink hole had developed in the street in front of my property and Philadelphia Water Department determined that it was because of a defective lateral that I was responsible for. Using PWD's no interest five year loan called HELP, PWD gets to determine who gets the job.
Philadelphia Plumbers Provider Name Locked
is one of their go-to plumbers to take care of these kind of issues. In 2013, BCP came out and fixed a defective
Philadelphia Plumbers Provider Name Locked
trap for me as well. The repair required digging up the street, cutting out some of the sidewalk, and replacing the lateral. Upon completion, they filled the hole and placed some asphalt temporarily on top. Price wise I had already gathered three quotes that put the job somewhere between $5000-5200. PWD determined that it was going to cost about $3700, but that was because they did not take into account having to cut out the sidewalk and eventually replace it. When the PWD inspector came out, he informed me that BCP had not been approved to do that work but would be mandated to do so. The inspector had issue that the workers had done it without trying to contact PWD to approve the change and inform me of the price change. The matter of having the Philadelphia Streets Department coming to fix the street and BCP redoing my sidewalk are still open, but overall my experience with them has been good.
In addition, their call center is efficient and accurate at taking care of customer needs.
- Aaron F.

Overall I an happy with the services
Philadelphia Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and his team provided. I think the thing I was most pleased with was his coming back to take care of frosting my front door, painting a small cabinet and checking an outlet even though he was already paid in full. I also liked his suggestions such as installing a pull chain light in my laundry area that didn't occur to me.
- Glen F.

Philadelphia Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and his crew are excellent to work with. Pricing is reasonable and few things came up along the way which is typical in a home renovation.
Philadelphia Plumbers Provider Name Locked
had to source some other people for these but always got a fair price and handled the project management. The quality of work is outstanding. The whole crew is friendly, professional and very clean/considerate. Overall, it was a great experience as far as home renovations go. I will use them again and highly recommend to others.
- Michele K.

They were professional and pleasant. The fixed a problem with the initial installation (a faulty manufacturer's part) immediately and at no charge. I recommend the highly
- joseph K.

GREAT ! I called this morning and spoke with girl {very nice}. Told her the problem. She said {to my surprise} it looks like someone could come out today. within minutes i received a call from
Philadelphia Plumbers Provider Name Locked
. Said he's on the way. The whole process took maybe an hour. the girl on the phone was very nice and
Philadelphia Plumbers Provider Name Locked
couldn't have been nicer. excellent work,good price {coupon on angie's list for $50.00 off. price was $225.00-$50.00 {coupon}=$175.00. checked angie's list, called
Philadelphia Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and my problem was over in less than an hour and a half and all this on a cold saturday morning. plumbers are quite busy at this time. didn't think i'd be hearing back from them till sometime next week. will definitely be using them again.!!!!!!!!!!!! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED !!!!!!!!!!!!!
- Allen M.

What a scam this guy has going! He charges you $60 just to walk in the door, then quotes you above 300% industry average, so you obviously say no, then he makes out with $60 bucks!!
He wanted to charge me $1050 to change out a shower valve!!! The best one on the
Philadelphia Plumbers Provider Name Locked
cost $200.. So where is the other $850 coming from???...More /> DO NOT CALL THIS COMPANY!!!
- mark S.

All Plumbers in Philadelphia

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Tony & Company LLC

123 Hazel Ave.

Tony Campana Plumbing, Inc.

112 North Orchard Rd

Top Choice Plumbing

2024 Meadow Lane

Top Notch Contracting

461 Pensdale St.

Topnotch construction

2363 E Dauphin St


305 Meeting House Lane
Merion Station

Total Plumbing and Drain Cleaning

1828 Mearns Rd

Total Restoration Contracting

342 W Ridge Pike



Trent's Home Repair & Remodeling

12 Dianna Drive

Tri County Handyman

527 Hillside Drive N
West Chester

Tri-County Water Services Inc

3685 Leike Rd

Trimark Plumbing & Drain Service

125 Diamond Rock Rd

Turtle Tech Inc

9422 Kirkwood Rd



Tyler Plumbing Co

119 Otter St

U Say It, We Paint It

534 Rosalie st


4871 Summerdale Ave

UGI Heating Cooling & Plumbing

2221 Sycamore St






51 Cleveland ave.

Unique Indoor Comfort

11 Union Hill Rd

Universal Enterprise

240 Fleet Wood St.

Universal Mechanical Connections Inc.

1008 W.Airy St.

Universal Services

123 W Washington St
West Chester

Unlimited Plumbing Solutions

515 Faith Dr

Uri Construction

1217 Genesee St

US Sewer and Drain, Inc.

PO Box 1072

Valley Air Indoor Quality LLC

2625 Bristol Rd.

Van Loon & Sons Plumbing & Heating

403 Greenwood Ave.



VAR Construction Inc

3396-98 Miller St


West Chester

Versatile renovation solutions

7321 ogontz ave

Vertex Mechanical Inc

21 Stevens Rd

Vesey Plumbing & Heating, Inc

2625 Bristol Road

Victor James Plumbing & Heating

335 Schuylkill Rd

Village Home Inspections, Inc

25 Fox Farm Ln

Vince Hee Roofing LLC

114 Poplar St

Vince Messantonio Plumbing and Water Care

138 woodbine way
Plymouth Meeting

Vincent Goffredo Plumbing And Heating

PO Box 19791

Vincent Nicastro

2969 W Lincoln Hwy




Feasterville Trevose

Volkert Remodeling Inc

1160 Lake Dr.
West Chester

Vortex Plumbing & Drain Cleaning

PO Box 60148
King Of Prussia

VS Remodeling

6038 Overbrook

W & J Frankland Builders

103 Laurel Dr


Lafayette Hill

W D Sheehan & Sons Inc

1500 Clayton Rd

W J Quinn Enterprises LLC

7408 Whitaker Ave

W T Galbraith

200 Powelton Ave

W.B. Scott, Inc.

735 Cedar Hill Road


152 S. Main Street


West Chester

Walter W Walden

6119 Spruce St

Waltons Construction

510 Heather rd.

Warrington Plumbing & Heating Co

2324 Street Rd

Water Heater Express

1680 Narcissa Rd
Blue Bell


Ridley Park

Waterproofing One

4093 Hollow Rd.

Waters Heating & Cooling

622 Swamp Rd

Watson Plumbing & Heating Inc

112 W South St
Kennett Square

Wayne Powell Custom Builder Inc

695 Woodview Rd

Wayne Thim Plumbing And Heating

130 N Henderson Rd
King Of Prussia

Wells Brothers

315 Windsor Ln

Wells Contractors

9446 Kirkwood Rd # A

Wesley Wood Service Experts

325 Westtown Rd
West Chester

West Chester Design & Build LLC

PO Box 3537
West Chester

West Jersey Remodelers

804 Bellview ave


West Chester

Wexford Builders

100 Wexford Dr

Whinnery & Son Painting LLC

7629 Parkview Rd
Upper Darby

Wholesale Granite Marble & Tile, Inc

130 E Lancaster Ave.

Willie's Plumbing

122 E Broad St

Winter Plumbing, Heating, & Air, LLC

2659 Barnes Avenue



Wolf Construction

6019 Grant Ave

Wood Plumbing

2603 Barton Ct

worldwide mechanical

1215 glossy ibis ct

Worley & Obetz Inc

85 White Oak Rd

Worthington Plumbing & Heating LLC

PO Box 428
Newtown Square

Ye Olde Village Workshop, LLC

113 Golf Drive


Feasterville Trevose

Yoder Plumbing & Heating Inc

102 Krepps Ln

Young and Bowman

201 Doyle St

Your Home Handyman Services

State Street
Kennett Square

Your Home Solutions

1601 Rockwell Road

Your Local Handyman

15 W Cuthbert Blvd

Z-Best LLC.

3427 w 3rd st
Marcus Hook



Zoom Drain & Sewer Service

915 S Trooper Rd

Shop Local Plumbing Services in Philadelphia

Philadelphia Zip Codes

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