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A
" and his co-worker were polite, professional, and very knowledgeable. It was honestly one of the best customer service experiences I have" ever had! I was of course freaking out about the possibility of mold, but he allayed my fears and answered all my questions. He explained the type of mold and then told me that it was a small enough area that I could do it myself. He provided me with detailed instructions about how to proceed safely. He also offered helpful advice about dehumidifying my basement and other little things he noticed, like lint behind the dryer that could be a fire risk. Most unbelievably of all, he didn't charge me for the visit! How often does a contractor come to your house, put your mind at ease, teach you things, charge you nothing, and save you almost $1000?! I can't say enough good things! I would recommend this service to anyone.

-Miriam S.

A
" and his crew were so professional and got the job done in less than a week. They took a pre and post test of the mold in our crawl space" and even vaccumed the other areas in the basement to make sure the entire space was clean when they left, not just the crawl space where they worked on. We are now mold free and have a new storage space. I would not think twice about hiring them again.

-Lauren B.

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Local Articles in Philadelphia

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Angie's Answers

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Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!
?

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?

 

Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?

 

Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:

 

- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.

 

 

?

When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -

http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=house+IR+scan&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=rhfRUci4F-TbigLghIHIAg&ved=0CDcQsAQ

?
?

Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

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Mold Removal reviews in Philadelphia

A

Rating
We recently purchased an older home that was found to have mold in the basement and a large crawlspace area. Based on positive Angie's List reviews, I called MSI for an estimate. was honest and told me upfront that it was a big a job in a tough environment. The price seemed fair, considering the amount of work required (5-6 ...More days). The job was well done and areas where mold was once visible are now clean.
- Michael D.
A

Rating
wore booties when he came to evaluate job and took mold sample. He had the results in a couple of days and he and workers returned the next week to do the remediation. They covered the floors to the exit and kept house clean. Made containment while they worked and removed all debris. ...More It cost the same amount as the written estimate, and took the expected 2 days. They swept before they left. Since I could still smell the bleach, they let the vacuum run an additional 12 hours. They recommended a dehumidifier and a website to order it on-line.
- Anthony M.
A

Rating
Our experience was great -- both the inspection and the work itself. When gave us the results of our mold test, he walked us through the options and helped us to make the right decision. He was knowledgeable and honest. On the day of the mold removal, he arrived right on time and made us feel totally at ease with the process. ...More He clearly takes pride in his work, coming back to the house when the cleaning was done to inspect everything and walk us through the steps we should take to avoid future problems.
- Matthew C.
A

Rating
Wow. What a great experience with this company. My wife and I bought a circa-1888 in Chestnut Hill five years ago and did an extensive renovation. Little did we know that, for decades probably, water had been leaking behind a section of wall in our third floor master bedroom and dripping down to our second floor office. We started ...More noticing subtle signs of damage, opened the wall, felt moisture, and smelled mold. We first had the source of the roof leak fixed. Then, per the good reviews on Angie's List, we called . Mr. Wendowski came out, used a moisture meter to determine the extent of the damage and did a pre-service mold test, the results of which showed high levels of mold. carefully explained what his company would do to remediate the issue. Although my wife and I were horrified about having to take off two walls in our fully-decorated house, 's obvious technical knowledge and his professional manner put us at ease. On the day of the work, the team arrived on time, covered the wood floor, carefully erected an excellent plastic sealing off the affected sections of the rooms, and as neatly-as-humanly-possible performed the removal of the walls, carefully avoiding damage to our trim and electrical. 's team were the nicest guys around, and I felt completely comfortable having them in my house. was the certified mold remediation specialist and is the certified technician who set up the powerful dehumidification and negative air machines. Although all the accessible mold-covered sections were remediated directly, they explained to me that as mold dries it goes in of moisture by shooting out spores. So while the dehumidification was going on, the powerful pull of the negative air system effectively pulled all the mold spores through a filter and out the window. They kept these big machines going for 24-48 hours per protocol and then came out again to test the moisture. After the areas were sufficiently dry, they carefully removed all the machines without a bit of damage to our stairway walls or handrails. Post-service testing showed only normal, natural, minimal amounts of mold remaining. My wife and I could not have asked for a better experience, and we therefore highly, highly recommend this excellent company.
- Nicolas T.
A

Rating
Overall, a great experience. I was contacted very shortly after making an inquiry and the work was completed that very same week. Staff was efficient and professional - they came on time and answered all of my questions. The work was completed neatly and there was not any residual mess to clean up.
- Kevin N.
A

Rating
We were relieved to find out that the black and white streaks on the wall were NOT mold, but effervescence (or salt staining). was very honest and educated us on dehumidifier use, mold growth, and recommendations for the future. He was very professional and in and out in about 20-30 mins.
- Donald C.
F

Rating
They came out and gave me a quote of 7800 and told me what they were going to do, they did exactly what they said they were going to do. So when they came out they scrapped the walls and put in a sump pump. Within two weeks the walls were flaking so he came out and fixed it. Four weeks later it happened again. I called him again and he said that ...More he would come back out and fix it and that was back before 4th and I have not heard from him since.
- Marie H.
D

Rating
“I was very dissatisfied with them, they left dust and dirt on my floor, sink, tub and shower and left paint on the shower on the shower hose and left wallpaper under the cabinet and all the mold was not removed in the shower and I had to remove the mold myself at the bottom of the shower”
- Mary & Kenneth R.

Mold Removal Experts in Philadelphia

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Accuracy Assured Home Inspections LLC

P.O. Box 63715
Philadelphia

ACI Adjustment Group

4459 W. Swamp Rd.
Doylestown

ACI-Tech Inc

203 East 10th St
Marcus Hook

Advanced Mold Diagnostics Inc

1005 Sussex Blvd
Broomall

Advanced Stucco Inspection

1005 Sussex Blvd
Broomall

Advocate Public Adjustment, LLC

1111 Roberts Ave
Feasterville Trevose

AJ Waterproofing

3774 Kratz Rd
Collegeville

Allstate American Waterproofing

626 N Grant St
Waynesboro

ALS Environmental

4624 Decatur St
Philadelphia

ARIZONA DRY WATERPROOFING

PO BOX 58
Lafayette Hill

Ark Environmental LLC

7705 Walker St.
Philadelphia

Aspen, Inc.

54 Ryerson Ave

ATR Custom Painting & Construction Management

10065 Sandmeyer Ln.
Philadelphia

Attractive Properties

9 Park Avenue
Paoli

AuntieGen, Inc.

675 W Penn St

B & B Basement Waterproofing

1767 Laurel Ave
Boothwyn

Babs

30 West St

Barlow Construction Co

37 Village Way
Malvern

Basement Expert Waterproofing Inc

3490 Kirkwood Rd
Philadelphia

Basement King LLC

5937 Castor Ave
Philadelphia

Basement Pros Inc

569 Walther Rd

Basement Systems USA

2092 E Old Philadelphia Rd

Basement Waterproofing Etc

303 Buckhead Lane
Douglassville

BETTER AIR MANAGEMENT LLC

PO BOX 341
Lansdale

BIO-Clean

3959 Welsh Road Suite 106
Willow Grove

Bio-One, Inc

PO Box 683

Biosweep of Southeastern PA

314 Bolton Lane
Downingtown

Bold Construction, LLC

3648 Greenwood Cr
Chalfont

Bone Dry Waterproofing

1651 Tomlinson Rd

BPG Home Inspections

289 Towne Center Blvd
Easton

BQ Basement Systems Inc

525 Bethlehem Pike
Erdenheim

BrightSide Window Cleaning

1240 Bristol Rd
Southampton

Carpentry USA LLC

PO Box 838
Doylestown

Certified Mold Inspections Inc

1755 N 13th St
Philadelphia

Champion Restoration Experts, Inc.

121 Johnson Rd. Suite 3

CLARKS CONSTRUCTIONS

7219 BRADFORD ST
Philadelphia

Cogent Building Diagnostics

17021 Old Orchard Rd Ste B

Comfort Basement

1250 Bethlehem Pike
Hatfield

Commercial Insulators Inc

1418 Chestnut Ave

County Action Restoration

PO Box 1793
West Chester

CRD Restore

214 Cherry Ave

Custom Renovations

230 Kings Hwy East

D&L remodeling

Philadelphia

DC Carpet Care LLC

325C Philmont Ave.

Dedicated

Birdsboro

Delaware County Restoration

5 1/2 (rear) Bartram Ave
Glenolden

Diamond Huntbach Construction Corp

500 E Luzerne St
Philadelphia

Draft Busterz

202 w. 2nd st.
Essington

East Coast Restoration

3054 Blackberry Lane
Malvern

eBasement Waterproofing

PO Box 26893
Collegeville

Eco Tech LLC

24 Lees Ave

Edward E Grove Painting

200 E Delaware Ave

Edward Griffin Masonry & Remediation LLC

520 S Central Blvd
Broomall

ELISIO BUILDERS PRO INC

3912 MARKET ST
Aston

Elite Carpet Cleaning

155 E Godfrey Ave
Philadelphia

EMG Remediation

5066R W Chester Pike
Edgemont

Facenda Renovations

139 Tartan Ter
Chalfont

FastPro Restoration - Gilbertsville

1600 Swamp Pike Rd
Gilbertsville

FDL Home Repair

783 Township Line Rd
Elkins Park

First Choice Restoration

10871 Bustleton Ave
Philadelphia

First Class Home Renovations

356 Conarroe St.
Philadelphia

Green Stone Energy LLC

319 Westtown Rd. Ste. X
Westchester

GRIMALDI CONTRACTORS

1 CALEB WAY
Elkins Park

H2Pro Restorations

243 Mine Bank Rd
Wellsville

Hardy Environmental Services

425 Old Airport Rd.

Hometown Insulation

53 N. Brighton Avenue
Upper Darby

Housing Solutions, Inc.

8317 Childs Rd
Glenside

Howard Property Perservation

3110 W. Gordon St.
Philadelphia

INDOOR SOLUTIONS, INC.

3333 Bryan court
Bensalem

Indoorsolutions,inc.

3333 Bryan Ct.
Bensalem

Inspect It 1st Property Inspection

24 Veterans Square
Media

Inspired Green - Southeastern Pennsylvania

1 International Plaza, Suite 550
Philadelphia

JA Drywall LLC

8355 Holman Ave

JBL CONSTRUCTION

511 WISCONSIN TRL

Joe Georgini Plumbing & Heating

Serving Pennsylvania & Delaware
Also Serving Parts Of Philadelohia

JOSEPH FUNARI PUBLIC ADJUSTERS

2951 S 16TH ST
Philadelphia

JRL Design Inc

18 Briar Rd
Oreland

KG General Contracting LLC

1235 Upton Circle
West Chester

Kings Clean Master

Philadelphia

Know How Cleaning

PO Box 13003

LJ Specialties

28 Rose Street
Feasterville Trevose

MasterTech Environmental

411 W. Madison Avenue

Mastertech Environmental of Eastern PA

1728 S 11th St
Philadelphia

matteoli contracting, llc

324 West Freedley St
Norristown

Max Barajas Painting Company

2295 Yellow Springs Rd.
Malvern

MDL RESTORATION INC

606 William Leigh Dr.
Tullytown

Mellon Certified Restoration

436 S Lansdowne Ave
Lansdowne

Mellon Mechanical Inc

228 Church Rd
Jenkintown

Mid-Atlantic Waterproofing

802 Interchange Blvd

Millenium Remodeling LLC

135 Bedford Ln.
Lansdale

MOLD 'N MORE DECONTAMINATION

602 Jeffers Cir.
Exton

MOLD 911, LLC

635 Wyndrise Drive
Blue Bell

Mold Solutions & Inspections

1555 Baltimore Ave
Folcroft

Moldlab

2501 Mayes Road

Moyer Indoor | Outdoor

113 E Reliance Rd
Souderton

MURTAGH BROTHERS INC

314 W RIDGE PIKE
Conshohocken

Mystique

Philadelphia

Naturally Kleen Inc

650 N Cannon Ave
Lansdale

Nelson Building Services Group

346 E Broad St
Malvern

New Age Home Solutions

2214 Rickert Rd
Perkasie

Orange Energy Solutions LLC

520 Abbott Drive
Broomall

PanGro Development LLC

2600 Broom Street

Paradigm Home Solutions

815 Greenwood Ave
Jenkintown

Patrick OConnor Inc.

1588 Meadow Lane

Petrill Construction Management LLC

505 Lombardy Road
Drexel Hill

Pixel Millions Online

2034 S 21 Street

PLYMOUTH ENVIRONMENTAL CO INC

923 HAWS AVE
Norristown

Pollution Solutions LLC

519 A Cinnaminson Ave.

Premier Water Proofing LLC

252 Walton Dr
Morrisville

Pride Inspection Services

1041 Cindy Lane
Red Hill

Pride Inspection Services L.L.C.

1041 Cindy Lane
Red Hill

Prism Enterprises LLC

14 Steamboat Landing Lane

PROACTION CARPET CLEANING AND RESTORATION LLC

1272 Providence Road
Clifton Heights

Property Care GroupInc

225 Lincoln Hwy
Fairless Hills

Property Recovery 911

PO Box 9978
Philadelphia

Puro Clean

2417 Welsh Road, Ste. 21-327
Philadelphia

PuroClean Emergency Recovery Services

2417 Welsh Rd
Philadelphia

QUALITY AIR SPECIALISTS INC

113 W SOMERDALE RD

Quality First Restoration LLC

3117 Victoria Ct
Bensalem

Quick Dry Restore

Fort Washington

R Chobert Painting & Paperhanging

641 Reed St
Philadelphia

Radon-Rid LLC

P.O. Box 1143
Oaks

Re-Volt Electric, LLC

61 S Morton Avenue
Morton

Real Estate Inspections

675 Featherbed Lane
Garnet Valley

RICHARD S PANDOLFI INC

606 CONSHOHOCKEN STATE RD
Narberth

Rightway Waterproofing Co

3300 Agate St
Philadelphia

Roe Services Inc

123456
Glen Mills

Royal Water Damage Flood Sewage Clean Up

7718 Temple Rd
Philadelphia

Royal Water Damage Restoration

1923 Fairview Ave
Willow Grove

Rusty Nails

3321 Princeton Ave
Philadelphia

S I Restoration

21 Nealy Blvd
Marcus Hook

S.P.T Home Services LLC

Washington Crossing

SAFE & SOUND HOME INSPECTIONS

1735 MARKET ST
Philadelphia

Scavello Restoration Services

90 South Keim Street
Pottstown

Sentinel Public Adjusters

637 Barton Run Blvd

Service Team of Professionals Eastern PA

13 Summit Square Center
Langhorne

Servicemaster By Artec

150 E Baltimore Ave
Clifton Heights

ServiceMaster of Bux-Mont

127 S 3rd St
Perkasie

Servpro of Langhorne/Bensalem

1701 LORETTA AVE
Feasterville

SERVPRO OF MANAYUNK & NORRISTOWN

503 HURST ALLEY
Norristown

SERVPRO of Newtown/Yardley

12 Penns Trail
Newtown

Servpro Of Society Hill

1520 Locust St
Philadelphia

Servpro of Southern Delaware County

P.O. Box 1203
Chadds Ford

Spotlight Home Inspection LLC

PO Box 75
Perkiomenville

SPY INSPECTIONS

101 S Broad Street Suite 100
Lansdale

STERLING HOME INSPECTIONS

165 RED HAVEN DR
North Wales

Suburban Handyman

14 Roberts Rd
Bryn Mawr

SULLIVAN CO

4709 Edgemont street
Philadelphia

Surratt Inc

7051 Germantown Ave
Philadelphia

Synertech Incorporated

228 Moore St
Philadelphia

TBS Basement Waterproofing

324 Second St Pike
Southampton

The Squad LLC

2441 W Berks St
Philadelphia

Thorne-Grove Management

2633 N Chadwick st

Three Brothers Waterproofing

460A Veit Rd
Huntingdon Valley

TLC Water and Fire Restoration

P.O. Box 327
Bridgeport

Triage Restoration

744 South Street
Philadelphia

Tucker Builders & Remodelers

2735 Pickwick Street
Philadelphia

Value Dry

154 Hansen Access Rd
King Of Prussia

Versatile renovation solutions

7321 ogontz ave
Philadelphia

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive

W N Painting & remodeling

10848 Modena drive
Philadelphia

Water Damage Cleanup Bala Cynwyd PA 484-262-9752

300 Levering Mill Road
Bala Cynwyd

Water Damage Solutions

1084 S Hanover St

Water Damage Squad

2441 W. Berks Street
Philadelphia

Waterpro

4 SOUTH SWARTHMORE AVE
Ridley Park

Waterproofing One

4093 Hollow Rd
Phoenixville

WAVE Healthy Home

333 E Lancaster Ave
Wynnewood

Whispering Willows Inc.

2275 Keiper Road
Quakertown

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