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"We had to remove our motion sensor light because of some structural repairs being done to the house. When they were finished, we needed the light moved and reinstalled." Gen3 called the night before to confirm, arrived EARLY (which I appreciated), moved it, installed it, provided a new conduit cut to size and shaped to fit the tight space. Tested and worked fine. I love Gen3.

-Jane W.

A
"Someone had cut an electrical wire in the house by accident. I had called 4 different electricians before calling . " was the only one that would come out at 9:00 PM on a rainy night. inspected the house and assessed the problem and was able to fix it. After he corrected the problem he stayed an additional 15 minutes just to make sure the lights didn't flicker again. I have used his service 3 times since this incident. I have also referred him to every person I know, even if they don't need an electrician. That's just how good he is. :)

-Nadine E.

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Local Articles in Philadelphia

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Electricians

Electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person.

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Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you're experiencing issues.

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Angie's Answers

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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Philadelphia

C

Rating
Came for an estimate, but I never received a quote. When I called to follow-up later that week, they asked if I wanted to schedule a visit. I decided to use another electrician for the job.
- Teresa K.
A

Rating
what more can I say than has not been said by the other reviews. these are the best people to get when you need electrical work done. they are true professionals, courteous, friendly and treat you like family. everyone from to , , pat, were great. as soon ...More as I go out and get a few new ceiling fans I will be calling them to install them. I would not hesitate to use them again. A GREAT EXPERIENCE!!!!
- edward w M.
A

Rating
Very nice experience. Came on time. Less time needed than originally. Estimated. & were very polite and professional. I have had them here before.
- Vivian R.
A

Rating
Excellent work, on time, friendly, pride in the job! Completely pleased with the work.
- Robert W.
A

Rating
and his family are a true pleasure to work with. He was responsive, fit us in to a tight schedule, was incredibly thorough and reassuring. I really appreciate how he took time to inform us about the existing wiring and what needed to be done. The plaster patching was very well done, too. Clearly takes pride in his work, and with good reason.
- Jenifer B.
A

Rating
I recently hired Flippone Electrical Contractors who came highly recommended and voted BEST OF PHILLY , to Install a NEW 200 AMP SERVICE and large panel box in a house which is being upgraded from top to bottom, every room, and every aspect of restoration.
Mr. came to the house with his foreman ...More , promptly on the date and time scheduled. Both and peppered me with intelligent questions relating as to what I am intending to install electrically throughout the house.
Their assessment and price were on target and Fillippone got the job. It was a flawless installation done
exactly on the date and time scheduled. Within days, the electrical underwriter came to inspect and in 15 minutes it was approved. It's been three months since that initial job, since then I have used Electrical Contractors LLC and General Construction LLC 4 times for jobs, from carpentry to plumbing on another property, the price was always reasonable; more importantly the workmanship was top notch my only call back was to thank for getting the work done on time and to my satisfaction.
Mr. is always responsive to my calls and his workers totally care about the customer’s satisfaction. Being a techie and IT professional myself I am having ’s foreman who impressed me with the scope of his
knowledge to install all the electrical needs from the whole house wiring and lighting etc to low voltage installations for music (8 pairs of ceiling speakers, each room has its own wall mounted volume control each room can listen to different sources all controlled with a smart phone). Additionally all rooms will have hardwired internet Cat6 Plenum cable, and plenum cabling for satellite entertainment. Virtually every kind of wire needed in modern homes today will be done in wall by foreman .
Every other craftsman trade needed to complete the job is a recommendation from , Like every homeowner or property manager, I ’t have time for slackers and scam artists. I have had estimates from other contractors and like many I had my share of NO SHOW / NON PHONE RESPONSIVE contractors but ’s team are first rate professionals who know their trade, make recommendations and are not out to rip anyone off. 4 additional jobs since the first job was done on time with NO BS for extra cost for this or that item. went over the everything, being familiar with it, I knew this guy was being honest with me. Everything you want and need must be specified , so the contractor knows how to estimate and you can compare apples to apples.
Over these months I knew I could trust ’s WORD and his crew’s WORKMANSHIP. So I decided to ask to take on the largest job I had to offer, take over the complete building of my new home.
I will write a follow up review when the entire job is completed.
- Vincent M.
A

Rating
did an excellent job with the service rendered at an extremely fair price. They were on time, clean, polite and very professional. is incredibly responsive, which is rare these days with most contractors. I had 5 estimates and was by far the most fair price. I would highly recommend ...More and I will certainly use them again in the future.
- ERIC K.
A

Rating
was very helpful and help me determine to fit my budget and get the goal accomplished. Not very punctual but always shows up and meets all of his promises. Very cost effective.
- Clarence S.

Electricians in Philadelphia

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

SPECTRUM ELECTRIC

274 ROXBOROUGH AVE
Philadelphia

Spectrum Energy, Inc

3081 Route 73 S

SRS General Contractor

1602 Frankford Ave
Philadelphia

Stadium Electric Inc

2 N. Chester Pike
Glenolden

Stafford Electric LLC.

653 E Moore St
Norristown

STAHL ELECTRIC

2860 MT CARMEL AVE
Glenside

Standup Builders, LLC

1150 1st Ave. Ste. 501
King Of Prussia

Starlight Electric

7133 MARSDEN ST
Philadelphia

Steve Zalenski Electric

2950 Almond st
Philadelphia

Steve's Remodeling & Handyman Services LLC

1638 Packer Ave
Philadelphia

STEVEN B SACKS

1133 TYSON AVE
Philadelphia

STEWART ELECTRIC INC

3525 AMBER ST
Philadelphia

stillman electric

1042 vauclain ave
Woodlyn

Stone Brothers Contracting

4204 Hulmeville Rd
Bensalem

Stone Masters Inc

515 School House Rd
Kennett Square

Strictly Residential Services

35 Windsor Rd
Erdenheim

Strong's Cleaning Service

Penn Center PO Box 60041
Philadelphia

Suburban Handyman

14 Roberts Rd
Bryn Mawr

SULLIVAN CO

4709 Edgemont street
Philadelphia

Summers Quality Services Inc.

6031 Rising Sun Ave
Philadelphia

SUPER DAVE'S ELECTRICAL INC

328 Maple Ave
Horsham

Surratt Inc

7051 Germantown Ave
Philadelphia

SUSAN ZITOMER HOME IMPROVEMENT

5913 CASTOR AVE
Philadelphia

svc remodeling

6535 Chestnut Ave

Sweeney's Mechanical Inc

375 Ivyland Rd
Warminster

Sweet Home Improvements, Inc

4433 Somerton Rd
Feasterville Trevose

T & G ENTERPRISES INC

123 W TABOR RD
Philadelphia

T and T Remodeling

1124 Greentree Lane
Pen Valley

T E MOTOR WORKS

2100 E WESTMORELAND ST
Philadelphia

T J COPE INC

11500 NORCOM RD
Philadelphia

T.B. Handyman

615 Fruit Farm Rd
Royersford

TAD Remodeling Co

4605 Sheffield Ave.
Philadelphia

Tartaglio And Sons

2602 S Darien St
Philadelphia

TB Construction Inc

6144 Cottage St
Philadelphia

TEEL CONTRACTING

2819 PHIPPS AVE
Willow Grove

TELE-SYSTEMS INC

100 S BROAD ST
Philadelphia

TELTEK SALES

4700 PARKSIDE AVE
Philadelphia

TerraSol Energies, Inc.

11 McComb Avenue
Glen Mills

The Claim Guide - Public Adjusters

1060 First Avenue
King Of Prussia

The Electricians Inc

7834 Bustleton ave
Phila

The Home Hero

306 Fulton Street
Philadelphia

The ISH'ues Company - Problem Solved

760 N. 43rd St.
Philadelphia

The Master's Craftsman Inc

1654 Musket Ln
Glen Mills

The Philly Homesmith LLC

45 City Ave
Bala Cynwyd

The Plumber Inc

641 Lancaster Avenue
Malvern

The-Builder

Po Box 232

The-Builder

1 York Ct

TheHandyPros.com

310 W 10th Ave
Conshohocken

Thermal Moisture Imaging

709 Easton Rd Fl 2A
Willow Grove

Thomas Edison Electric Inc

352 Second Street Pike
Southampton

THOMAS ELECTRIC & LIGHT HOMECARE

5743 DUNLAP ST
Philadelphia

Thorne-Grove Management

2633 N Chadwick st

Tighe Electrical

1 GOLF RD
Havertown

TIL-MAR DESIGNS

1708 S 25TH ST
Philadelphia

TIM LIPPICK ELECTRIC

425 E WILDEY ST
Philadelphia

Timber Creek Builders, LLC

114 W College Ave
Yardley

Titanic Controls

611 MORGAN AVE
Drexel Hill

TJ's Painting & Renovations Co

230 Old Forge Crossing
Devon

TNL Multitask Services

4702 Hartel
Philadelphia

TNT ELECTRICAL SERVICES

281 ORCHARD ROAD
Springfield

TODD ELECTRIC

310 FELIX RD
Huntingdon Valley

Tonelli Builders

2731 Windy Bush Rd
Newtown

Top Notch Contracting

461 Pensdale St.
Philadelphia

Topnotch construction

2363 E Dauphin St
Philadelphia

TOTAL ELECTRICAL SVC

5319 OXFORD AVE
Philadelphia

Total Restoration Contracting

342 W Ridge Pike
Royersford

total tire

7715 Ogontz Ave
Philadelphia

TRADEMARK ELECTRIC

7044 SOUDER ST
Philadelphia

Tretina Electric

731 E Woodlawn Ave

Tri-Point Electric

2208 Mary Ln
Broomall

Tri-State Creations LLC

10 E. 6th Avenue
Conshohocken

TWENTY FIRST CENTURY ELECTRIC

7409 LAPWING PL
Philadelphia

TWJ Home Services

140 Colony Trail

U-NEEDA SIGNS

2811 S 10th St
Philadelphia

UCMS Inc

4871 Summerdale Ave
Philadelphia

Unique Indoor Comfort

14 Union Hill Rd Ste 300
Conshohocken

Universal Enterprise

240 Fleet Wood St.

Urbaniak Construction

1234 Linden Ave
Morrisville

US Custom Wiring, LLC

720 Greenwood Ave
Jenkintown

Usa Home Repairs and Contracting

19 Quarry rd
King Of Prussia

V2R Construction

1323 McKean Street
Philadelphia

Vacuum Cleaners of C and R Inc

2108 Stenton Ave
Philadelphia

VACUUM SPOT

3364 Morning Glory Rd
Philadelphia

VAIL COMMUNICATIONS

319 W CHELTEN AVE
Philadelphia

Vally's Electric

410 Ferris Ln
Doylestown

valuebathandkitchen

7030 millcreek rd
Levittown

VAR Construction Inc

3396-98 Miller St
Philadelphia

Vara NRG LLC

8301 Torresdale Ave. Ste. 19C
Jenkintown

varo and lex contracting

6710 akron st
Philadelphia

VASOLI ELECTRIC CO

2800 RED LION RD
Philadelphia

Venture Property Protection LLC

2151 Brintons Bridge Rd
West Chester

VICL Construction Inc

1537 N Orkney St
Philadelphia

Victor Brubaker - Builder

429 S 45th St
Philadelphia

VIP Telecommunications LLC

8019 Ferndale St
Philadelphia

VS Remodeling

6038 Overbrook
Philadelphia

W J Quinn Enterprises LLC

7408 Whitaker Ave
Philadelphia

W KRAMER ASSOC INC

3489 RIDGE AVE
Philadelphia

WALSH BROTHERS PLUMBING AND MECHANICAL

3617 GARRETT Rd
Drexel Hill

Walter W Walden

6119 Spruce St
Philadelphia

Waltons Construction

510 Heather rd.

WAREHOUSE25.COM

10871 Bustleton Avenue
Philadelphia

WARING ELECTRIC

1016 BELMONT AVE
Philadelphia

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WAUKESHA MOTOR CO

3219 B ST
Philadelphia

Wayne's Garage Inc

4521 Springfield Ave
Philadelphia

We Care Free Estimates.com Inc

4533 N Front St
Philadelphia

Weands electricity

1025 south st

Weinstein Electric LLC

8152 Leon St
Philadelphia

West Services

PO Box 71
Woodlyn

westside electric

7402 Rising Sun Ave
Philadelphia

Wexford Property Management

4112 Station St A
Philadelphia

Whispering Willows Inc.

2275 Keiper Road
Quakertown

WHITE TIGER ELECTRIC CO

6410 N 11TH ST
Philadelphia

Wilkes Technologies LLC

8015 Route 130 S

William A Kilian Hardware Co

8450 Germantown Ave
Philadelphia

WILLIAM G TORCHIANA

2120 BELLEMEAD AVE
Havertown

WILLIAM S MALANY & SONS INC

24 HAGERTY BLVD
West Chester

Williams and Goldstein General Contractors, LLC

5237 Pennsgrove Street
Philadelphia

WILLIAMS ELECTRIC

1532 S 53RD ST
Philadelphia

WILSON'S ASSOCIATES INC

1305 S 6th St
Philadelphia

Wired Up Solutions

7337 Wissinoming St
Philadelphia

Wolf Construction

6019 Grant Ave
Bensalem

YEAGERS KITCHENS & BATH INC

1949 JERSEY ST
Feasterville Trevose

Your Electric Now

111 Waycross Ave
Philadelphia

Your Home Solutions

1601 Rockwell Road
Abington

Zack Electric

4220 Aldine St
Philadelphia

Zack Electric

3565 N Hutchinson St
Philadelphia

ZERO WALLPAPER SCRAPING

2929 N LAWRENCE ST
Philadelphia

Ziegler Electric

807 Church St.
North Wales

Ziegler Electric

807 Church Street
North Wales

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