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" came out to have a look at my job. It wasn't a great fit for 3D, but he went out of his way to connect me with referrals. He was prompt," honest, and super helpful, even though we didn't do the job. Will be the first people I call in the future. Thanks guys!

-Mark B.

"They did an excellent job. They emailed the results and I didn't understand everything so I called them. The tech was very detailed in her explanations and" I then understood the results. I would very much use this company again. I

-Fran F.

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Local Articles in Orlando

removing black mold

Mold Removal and Remediation

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

mold remediation contractor removes baseboards

Few things strike fear and anxiety in the hearts of homeowners as strongly as the presence of mold.

mold remediation contractor secures home

It's never good news when a homeowner discovers mold, especially dangerous black mold, somewhere in the home.

circles of mold growth in wood cabinets

Homeowners can't solve a mold problem by selling their home to an unsuspecting buyer. Here's what buyers and sellers should know.

There are three major home repairs you have to do if you want to protect the value of your home. While they aren’t fun, you can’t put them off. See if you agree with these three unsexy home improvement projects you just have to do.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Orlando


I thought he was a very nice man at first. You could tell that he was extremely busy because he seemed to be all over the place. At first he was hired from a groupon or living social deal to clean our tile floors. He was so nice that we explained that we were selling the house and needed to get the tile fixed. He recommended not to remove all the grout ...More and re-grout because it would cost too much money for a house we are selling. He said that he could fill in the missing grout and re-color it all to match. Bottom line was that we paid him to do a job but when he messed up on scheduling, he tried to fit us between 2 other clients when we were told originally it would take a day. He never filled in the grout advising us that "filling in" meant adding color to the hole. The grout color was so messy that it was all over the actual tile. I have 3 cats and 2 dogs ans said to him that I needed to vacuum which he told me I didn't have to. I thought he was going to sweep up the animal hair. Instead, he did the color over the hair which than trapped the hair. He "Cleaned" the tile on the fireplace but missed a large scuff saying that he scrubbed the tile. I took a sponge and got it off with a little elbow grease.
My mistake was not getting anything in writing. He fought tooth and nail and became mean to us both. The only things that came out of his mouth have been . I can usually let things go as "lesson learned" but this made me so mad I filed complaints with the state and the BBB. I feel that everything might have been done properly if he did not mess up on our scheduling.
- Jacqueline S.

First off called me within 30 minutes of me sending my interest via Angie's List to them. He was down to earth, detailed in his questions and answers and overall truly friendly. The day of the inspection he was actually early! Again, really comfortable demeanor, more than answered my questions and walked me through every ...More step of his inspection. The air samples were taken Friday morning and back from the lab on Monday. called me that same Monday to out what the results were and to let me know their full report (from ) would be in my email come Tuesday. It certainly was, replete with photos, the lab reports and details on each reading.
I'm incredibly impressed by how professional, warm and on the ball was and I would recommend him and to friends and family.
- John-Patrick A.

Lumber Liquidators sold me laminate flooring. I was very happy with the quality and beauty of the laminate floors. Recently they have had issues with chemicals coming from the flooring and if that was true then I would need for them, or worst case, me to replace them. Therefore, it was important to know if there was a problem. I hired ...More to come with equipment and test all the rooms. came and she was very pleasant and used testing equipment and there was no problem. I have a written report so show anyone in the future that may rent or buy the house. The testing all went well and I can recommend this service.
- Roger M.

He had forgotten the appointment and scrambled to get someone to do the job. He came himself two hours after the appointed time. The floors looked much better. The process was not what I was expecting. I've had the tiles steamed before, but this was a chemical and lots of water on the floor.
- Marie M.

From the start, he was very informative and knowledgeable, even letting me know that it is illegal in the state of Florida for a mold testing company to perform a mold remediation on the same location. He went far beyond the areas that concerned us and notified me of all the areas that were a potential problem, a current problem, or not an issue. I ...More can tell that really knows what he's doing and helped put me at ease about the possible scope of the work when I was ready to cry!

- David F.

I rated the cost low because in reality we didn't have mold. We had gotten into a sting with a home inspector with the first contract on our house. That home inspector worked with one mold company (not ) and gave us a $3000 bill. We had previously been all through the house and knew that there was no mold. They would ...More produce no pictures. We had Rich with come and inspect on our own. Nothing but now it was on our disclosure so we had to have work done although mostly preventative. We lost that contract and went to second contract since we were unwilling to comply. did some rerouting of bathroom vents on our 1959 house and washed down the supposed areas. He knew of the previous group that had "inspected" our house. He was very good and very professional and I would highly recommend him as he does not oversell.
- Laurie H.

and son of did a SUPERB job cleaning our a/c ducts and furnace coils. I was able to schedule an immediate appointment and they kept in contact with me before and after the work. Their attention to detail was spot on and kept me informed on all their findings as they performed their work. They spent nearly ...More the entire day working in our home to ensure a thorough job. I was impressed with their professionalism, courtesy, and concern to care for our home and belongings while they worked. They cleaned up after themselves as they left each room, too. Nice people & highly recommended!
- John H.

was great. He was very informative and helpful. I was very impressed on his timeliness and willing to help me. A big thank you to for giving me the peace of mind that no mold exists in my home!
- Richard H.

Mold Removal Experts in Orlando

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

24/7 Property Restoration

37 N. Orange Avenue,

3 D Restorations

4764 N Apopka Vineland Rd

4 Sons Restoration

122 Holderness Dr

911 Restoration of Orlando

9400 Universal Blvd

A Accurate Cleaning, LLC

10193 Oak Crest Road

A B Floors & Restoration

390 North Orange Ave

Accountable Climate Solutions

13540 N Florida Ave

Advanced Restoration & Design

930 Carter Rd Ste 218
Winter Garden

Advantaclean Environmental

5501 Commerce Dr

AdvantaClean of Orlando

5501 Commerce Drive

Air Analytics LLC.

2582 Connection Point


2090 N Forsyth Rd Suite #224

All American Water Restoration Inc

6368 Old Cheney Hwy

All In Construction Services LLC

275 Hunt Park Cv



Back To New Htg & Cooling

6421 W Homosassa Trl

Baxter Restoration

1106 West Central Blvd
Orlando, Fl 32805

Baxter Restoration

1106 W Central Blvd.

Best Home Inspection LLC

PO Box 1263

Burleson Services Inc

9003 E State Road 44

ClaimsMax Adjusters Inc.

6007 S Orange Ave

ConstrueMAX Emergency Services

325 N. Orange Blossom Trail

Cornerstone Construction & Company Inc

1746 E Silver Star Rd

D. Kinney Drywalls & Ceiling Repair

229 Niagara St.
Orange City


100 W. Lucerne Circle

Dan Swingle Construction

1074 Leeway Ct


1822 Strathmore Cir
Mt Dora


Winter Garden

DryFast Systems

6565 Hazeltine National Dr.

EDC Professional Home Inspections

2200 Winter Springs Blvd

Elite Mold Services

4700 Millenia Blvd.


2365 Pemberton St

Empire Craftsman

5722 Grand Canyon Dr.

FLA-CAT / Florida Catastrophe

7214 Edgewater Drive

Food Health & Environmental Safety

563 Ferguson Drive Suite L

four corner const.sevices

2603 bass lake blvd.



FSG Inspections

685 South Ronald Reagan Blvd

G.C. Rushton


Gato Guard Services Inc

3020 Kananwood CT

Gibson Home Improvements, LLC

231 E Harding St

GNB Restoration Services

4409 Hoffner Av. #104

Gregory Anthony Massing Enterprises II, Inc.

19101 Quarterly Parkway

Guardian Duct Cleaning

239 S Lucerne Cir E

Home Inspection All Star Orlando

514 Columbia Street

Home Pro Inspections Orlando

280 Dirken Dr



Hydra Dry of Orlando

3611 N Apopka Vineland Rd

Indoor Air Quality Solutions

1170 Tree Swallow Dr
Winter Springs

InSpecPRO Inspection Group

13640 W Colonial Dr
Winter Garden



ITC Restoration

11310 S. Orange Blossom Trail

Loraal, Incorporated

4856 Lorraine Way

Lord General Contractors Corporation

13799 Park Blvd. North


Altamonte Springs

Mold Remediation Pros

7380 Sand Lake Road


2501 Mayes Road

No More Odor

1001 General Dr.

Orange County Real Estate Repair, LLC

2311 Hedgegate Ct

osvaldo paint solutions inc

7463 Canford Ct
Winter Park

pat lynch construction

909 Dennis Ave

pat lynch construction

909 Dennis Ave

pat lynch construction

909 Dennis Ave

pat lynch construction

909 Dennis Ave

Pat Lynch Construction,LLC

909 Dennis Ave

Paul Davis Restoration Of Orlando

5104 Forsyth Commerce Rd

Phoenix Home Inspections LLC

506 Newhall Lane

Professionals In Renovations

PO Box 390352

Pucci's Air & Home Services

8632 Willow Kane Crt


213 S Dillard St Ste 120
Winter Garden

Reliable Claims Adjusting

9953 Stockbridge Drive

REM Inspections LLC

5840 Red Bug Lake Road, #325
Winter Springs

Restoration 1 of Central Florida

2202 Hoffner Ave.

Restoration Specialists

13441 Chambord St

Restore Now LLC

4368 L.B. McLeod Rd

ServPro of Orange Country

1209 E Landstreet Rd

Sherlock Home Inspections

106 Hancock Bridge Pkwy W
Cape Coral

SKO Kingston Construction & Restoration Inc

3442 Parkway Center Ct

Sky Disaster Restoration Inc

3506 St Valentine Way

Skyline Builders and Developers Inc

210 Hardee Lane

Stellar Design

2628 exuma way
Winter Park

The Mold Pros LLC

7275 W. 162nd Street

Time Machine Cleaning & Restoration

10064 Riven Glen Ct.

Total Home Roofing

Three Convenient Locations
Orlando, Brevard County, Volusia County

Total Plumbing & Construction LLC

6360 Old Cheney Hwy

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive

Water Mold & Fire Orlando

2801 E. Colonial Dr.

WIN Home Inspection

2014 Edgewater Drive

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