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Over 4,273 reviews for
Orlando Drain Pipe Contractors from people just like you.

"Sink stopped working at about 11am an after a failed attempt at self-repair. Called at approximately 3PM. Explained my situation the office" service coordinator and she informed me they could have someone out to see me today... Less than 1/2 hour later & from arrived and proceeded to check my "handiwork", fixed the shower problem and proceeded to fix the sink problem... He replaced the rain and p-trap (thereby correcting my mistakes and proving I should not take up plumbing as a career)... cleared the blockage and made my girlfriend a happy lady. The were finished and the bathroom blockage was fixed by 4:30PM. I have never received such efficient, professional and quick service as I received from and from Emerald Plunbing. I would recommend them to anyone in the and surrounding areas.

-Louis M.

" showed up about 10 minutes after 8 AM and we walked through what he would to to repair my sewer line. I asked him to take before and after" pictures and he said he would and I also asked him to take care of the lawn since we just had it replaced. Throughout the morning he sent me the picture of the damaged pipe and it turns out that energy had cracked the pipe when they ran some cables right next to the joint sometime many years ago. He suggested that I try to get compensated by but I am still waiting to hear back. He cut out the damaged section of pipe and replaced my lawn and it looks like he was never there. Fantastic job and very courteous to me. I have now used them for several services and will continue to use them in the future. I highly recommend them for all your plumbing needs.

-Drew S.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.


If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.


Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.


As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.



Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Orlando


Very professional. Discussed possible solutions to my drainage issues and stuck with the agreed solution. All work completed on time. Very patient while I worked through approval process.

- William A.

came the same day I called to give me an estimate. I was pleased with the estimate because he gave me an Angie's List discount which I wasn't expecting. The work was scheduled within a week's time due to the fact that the county has to come out and the area with flags and spray paint. ...More showed up when he said he would and went straight to work. Then after a bit a helper showed up. They kept the area neat. When they were done - you couldn't even tell a drain had been put in. I walked the area with and he explained to me how it should work, which I found helpful. He also gave me a 12 month warranty in case i had any problems with drainage.
- christine/gale H.

Outstanding. showed up on early both days and even after digging up both sides of the yard, you could barely tell he was there by the time they finished on the 2nd day. The put tarps down to keep the dirt and sod from getting all over the place and the NDS product they used allowed them to leave virtually no damage to the surrounding ...More turf. They cleaned up entirely and left no of being there except for the subtle signs of drains if you know where to look.
- Jason A.

They did a great job. They dug a trench on the old pipe but found out that it went under a porch post, so they dug a trench around the post and routed the pipe to the septic tank. They installed a clean out that was accessible where as before it was buried. A super job.
- LEO S.

They were very responsive, always showed up on time, stuck to their estimate, which we felt was very reasonable. Staff very polite and competent. Completed the job in 3 days, with all issues being resolved and fixed. We actually enjoyed having them do the work. Felt they were very reasonable and really liked the idea, that they had their own crew and ...More did not sub it out. Will call them again for other repairs.

Work man arrived on time, and confirmed the plan and placement of the drains. All the excess dirt was placed on tarps and hauled away, along with the excess rock. The grass was cut so it could be replaced back over the drainage area, so there was no bare earth left. The area was left clean and without uneven areas in the lawn.

As my husband was prepping our lawn for resodding this morning, he accidentally cracked the main water line going into our house. Terrible, esp as we have my son's prom tonight, and my other son and I are attending a big fundraiser tonight! we immediately came to Angie's List and called several. One gave us an estimate of over $500...we ...More choked at that! But it's Saturday, and we figured we'd get taken to the cleaners by somebody. :-(
Anyway, we noticed and Beyond had a zillion good reviews here, so we called him. As a small business person myself, I was stunned when his voicemail said, "Leave a message and I'll call you within 15 min." What? Seriously? I'm gonna test this guy out. I called at 12:30pm and sure enough, 13 min later, calls me! Amazing! Gave the phone to my husband, and he was impressed with knowledge and pricing. sent a guy out within 2 hours (awesome!) and he did a fantastic job. It wasn't the quick easy fix we'd expected, so we were really glad to have someone who knew what they were doing! It got all fixed in time for my son's prom and so I could get ready for our big fundraiser tonight. , you exceeded our expectations today. Great job! HIGHLY recommend!
- Janet R.

French Drain installed to eliminate standing water in my side yard. The service was completed in a day and my yard looked great when they were done. They dug all the way to the street and replaced the sod so it didn't look like the yard had been dug up that day. They cleaned up after the job. Very professional, very easy to work with, very knowledgable ...More about their job. I would highly recommend Hessenaur Sprinkler repair and Irrigation.
- Gail P.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Orlando

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A New Beginning Environmental

1324 Windmill Ridge Loop

Above All Environmental Inc

5036 Dr. Phillips Blvd

Ace Discount Septic

PO Box 782301

Ace Solves It All

1692 Dolores Dr

Acme Environmental Services

1040 Leather Fern Ln

Advanced Services

102 Timbercove Cir

Affordable Water Services LLC

112 Chutney Drive

AGA Sons Construction

12636 Maribou Circle

Aluminum Men Super Gutters & Screen Rooms

533 Fernwood Dr
Altamonte Springs

Anytime Septic

614 E Hwy 50

Aqua Blue Pools

PO Box 1223

Ark Gutters of Central FL

3692 Covington Ln

Ben Franklin Plumbing

647 Business Park Blvd
Winter Garden

Brown's Property Maintenance, Inc.

4409 Hoffner Ave.

Brownie's Septic and Plumbing

11372 United Way

Bryan Plumbing Inc

3804 N John Young Pkwy Ste 2


3550 Old Winter Garden Rd

Clear Water Products & Services Inc

PO Box 196087
Winter Springs

Cloud 9 Services, Inc.


Custom Creative Contracting Inc

2266 Jessica Ln

CutNedge Designs

po box 721034


P.O.BOX 677752

Donnie Daniels Plumbing Inc

4411 TAMI LN

Donovan D. Davis, LLC.

3817 White Heron Dr

Dragon Plumbing Inc

2649 Pemberton Dr


PO BOX 108455

DSS Construction & Development LLC

1640 Dormont Lane

Emerald Plumbing

2311 Henderson Dr

Fahrenheit Plumbing

4841 Eden View Ct

Fence Depot

339 Covington Rd

Ferpes Brother's DBA Landscape Solutions

115 Springhurst Cir
Lake Mary

Five Star Plumbing Service Inc

5000 Foxfire Ln
Lake Mary


1714 N. Goldenrod Road

Food Health & Environmental Safety

563 Ferguson Drive Suite L

Four Towns Plumbing Inc

241 Sunrise Blvd



Gibson Home Improvement

7225 Windham Harbour Ave

Grace Plumbing

7320 Lake Underhill Rd

Green's Environmental Services

PO Box 4414
Winter Park

Herrell Plumbing Inc

5613 E Colonial Dr

Hessenauer Sprinkler Repair & Irrigation

1947 Ranchland Trl

Hurricane Irrigation INC.

8018 Pamlico Street

Idyllic landscape & design LLC

2213 Dardanelle dr.

J and L septic solutions

1511 Grayson Dr

J and L septic solutions

1511 Grayson Dr

Jeff's Kitchen Bath & Beyond

P.O. Box 623708

Jet Services Lawncare Inc.

1160 Copenhagen way
Winter Garden

JG Elder

2324 Ehrler Ln
Winter Park



Joseph jaggon handyman

1406 Hernandes Dr


1406 hernandes DR

Knox Plumbing Inc

20614 Majestic St


3031 40TH ST

Let Brice Do It Concrete & Pavers

7436 Barnacle Ct
Winter Park

Longs Certified Plumbing Services

5415 Lake Howell Rd.
Winter Park

McKinney Plumbing

7210 N. Cocoa Blvd #101 Cocoa, FL 32927

Modern Plumbing Industries Inc

255 Old Sanford Oviedo Rd
Winter Springs

My Handy Craftsman Inc

1950 Lee Rd.
Winter Park




PO BOX 622464


PO Box 160731
Altamonte Springs

Pete's Plumbing Inc.

807 East Washington St.

Professional Piping Installations LLC

14439 Avalon Reserve Blvd Apt 307

Property Services by Musitech

7512 Dr. Phillips Blvd.

Rays Home Repairs

739 woodvalley way

RK Lawn and Pool

1516 Crosswind Circle

Roedell's Landscaping Inc

4024 Dr. Love Rd.

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

31116D Fairview Ave

SCFL Handyman Express


Sean Reilly Plumbing

4844 Headlee Dr

Staleys Lawn & Home Service

6425 Sheryl Ann Dr

Storm Solutions Inc

2563 Connection Pt

Tom Easton Construction

300 Buttonwood Dr
Lake Mary

Total Plumbing & Construction LLC

6360 Old Cheney Hwy



Vibe General Construction LLC

6084, Stevenson dr

Walsh plumbing

1503 Simonton Ave

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