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A
"Showed up early and started right away. Very clean, organized and had all supplies needed for the job. There was no leaving back and forth to get more supplies/parts" which was nice. Job was started in the morning and ended before dinner time on the same day. Can not complain about anything. Lights look beautiful.

-Julie B.

A
"Rusty was great. He took our vintage light fixture and took it to
lighting to have it rewired.
was not able to get" to the fixture in a timely manner, so Rusty bought the parts from them and rewired the fixture himself. He came back out the reinstall it on a Saturday. I was shocked at how low the total bill was and how quickly the work was completed.

-Andrew R.

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Local Articles in Oklahoma City

snowy house

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

electrical wiring
Electrical

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

outdoor lighting electricity
Lighting, Electrical

If you're experiencing electrical problems in your home or want to add capacity for new projects, consider hiring an electrician for these four services.

An outside outlet needs to be weather protected and include a ground fault circuit interrupter. (Photo by Gretchen Becker)
Electrical

What does it take to install an outdoor outlet, and how much does it cost? Highly rated electricians say it’s not as difficult or costly as you might think.

One LED can last up to 50,000 hours, the equivalent of 42 60-watt incandescent bulbs. (Photo by Hugh Vandivier)
Lighting, Electrical

LED lights are quickly becoming popular choices for interior home lighting, but can they really compete with incandescent bulbs? Are there any downsides to using light-emitting diodes?

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

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Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

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Electrical reviews in Oklahoma City

A

Rating
Mr.
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
came fully prepared and was very friendly, prompt and courteous. He made absolutely no mess and was very careful bringing the long ladder and did not bump anything. He did not try to sell me any thing but did tell me he hoped I was satisfied with the job and hoped I would use him again, which I will certainly do.
I was very impressed with him.
I will both use him again and will recommend him to everyone I know.
- Dennis C.
A

Rating
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
is the best in the business and in his field. He is professional, very honest and upfront with the costs, equipment and time required for the job. Upon hiring him, we gave him a key to home as we were not living in the home yet (hence it needed lighting and heat, etc.) and
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very good at communicating when he would come to home to work and when he would leave the home and lock the doors. We never had to worry when
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
was working as he always ensured the home was secure before leaving for the day or at anytime he had to leave.
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
really used the best materials for the job and unlike most electricians, he allowed us to purchase much of the lights required, bulbs, and other equipment required for the job through his working account at local suppliers in order to give us a break on the costs of the materials. He knew we had a bad experience with the previous electrician and we appreciated his efforts to help us out on the costs of the materials. He was also very informative for the type of equipment we needed to buy before he started the job. He took me through the entire home and pointed out all materials that were needed for the job. During the job,
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
was so good at communicating, especially when he encountered electrical issues that were either not done great by the previous electrician or were previously done well and he would always communicate everything to us in a timely manner.
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
also had integrity about his work ethic that you rarely find today. For example if a light fixture was accidently broken while he worked (either by him or his apprentice), he was always quick to tell us he would replace it.
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
is also very knowledgeable in his field and we appreciated the kind of expertise he gave us for this job since so much work had already been done previously so our job was not the easiest for him to tackle being he did not start it from the beginning. It was also one of his biggest jobs he had this last year and considering the amount of work and unanticipated problems encountered,
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
did a great job ensuring he would have the home ready to move in by our move in date, and in the end, he kept his promise by staying late and even finishing up the last bit of work in the basement and on outside of home after hours to make sure everything was in place and equipment was all working before the move in and final inspection. He definitely met our deadline for move in but better yet, he exceeded our expectations also as he did a wonderful job in getting all the final electrical work done on our home. Since we have now lived in our house for a couple of months since all the final installation was done, I can attest that we have not had one single electrical issue with anything!! Like I said,
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
is the best in the business!!! We will hire him again for all our electrical needs in the future - his number is on our iPhone speed dial!
- Stephanie K.
A

Rating
At first, I thought they were really expensive. I asked them about the pricing, and they came out and worked out some deals with me. They were very polite, very efficient, and every good workers. They were also very knowledgeable! It turns out it was not all that expensive!
- Phyllis T.
A

Rating
Mr
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
, the owner, called me to let me know the electricians were on their way and in no time my doorbell rang and they were here.They were professional and knowledgeable and explained everything I need to know regarding the switches in the boxes. I would highly recommend them to family, friends and whoever else is looking for excellent electrical work done.And it didn't take them but a couple of hours to complete the job. Very pleased.
- Rise S.
A

Rating
Rusty arrived on time and was very professional. Walked me through everything that needed to be done and gave me an estimate for future fixes that couldn't be done that day. Will definitely use him again in the future.
- Kate K.
A

Rating
I called
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
, although very busy, I imformed them my mother whom is disabled and elderly had her electricity temporarely off due to upgrade needed
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
found a way out of their busy schedule to correct the issue within a couple of hours and my mother had her electricity and then said no charge I was truely impressed and have a new electrician for my home and electrical needs as well as my mothers I was very happy with their service.
- Marschelle H.
B

Rating
They did exactly what I needed. I called a few other companies and Alliance's prices are reasonable. He actually finished the job that another electrician abandoned. They were right on time and I've definitely held on to their number for any future work.
- Hattie T.
A

Rating
I recently moved into a new home and quickly found that the space for the fridge in the kitchen was not large enough to accommodate a modern fridge. Even most cabinet depth fridges would've stuck out past the adjoining doorframe making it difficult to pass through into the kitchen. Apart from completely redoing the entire kitchen or putting in a fridge that blocked off the main entry to the kitchen the only other option would be to move the wall behind the fridge back to create greater depth for the fridge.
I had a couple contractors come evaluate the job and was told by some that they could only move it back an inch or two without going into the next room behind the wall (which is a sitting room/parlour type area) which they explained wouldn't look right.
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
evaluated the project and not only was confident they could push the wall back far enough to accomodate the fidge but had the idea to put in custom cabinets/bookshelves on each side of the section that now protruded into the adjoining room in order to given the appearance of a linear wall that was "meant" to be there.
The staff that actually worked the job were professional, efficient, and courteous. There were only one small delay in the initially planned timeline which was on me (actually Best Buy) given I needed to use the hole
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
created in the wall to move the fridge into the kitchen (the other doorways were too small). So they couldn't start re-building the wall until after the fridge was in place and Best Buy did not deliver on time to say the least.
Overall I was very impressed with the final product. The house has old custom crown molding which they took off the old wall and put back on the new wall and looks seamless. They also fixed some peeling dry wall tape in 2 corners of the room. When painting the wall and corners of the room they took it upon themselves to touch up spots on the rest wall that needed new paint. After completion the dust and debris was well cleaned. The vision that
Oklahoma City Electricians Provider Name Locked
had at the beginning that we agreed to is what we got and my wife and I are very happy with the results.

- Jonathan & Tresy C.

All Electricians in Oklahoma City, OK

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Waters Electric Inc

310 W Main St
Norman

WEATHERBEE ELECTRIC

516 N VILLA AVE
Oklahoma City

WEATHERMAN MECHANICAL

4528 ENTERPRISE PL
Oklahoma City

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

WEDGECO ELECTRIC INC

800 NE 19TH ST
Oklahoma City

WEEKS ELECTRIC

14301 Fairhill Ave
Edmond

WELCO ELECTRIC

10521 S BLACKWELDER AVE
Oklahoma City

Welco Electric Inc.

P.O. Box 95302
Oklahoma City

WELL'S INDUSTRIAL BATTERY

10117 NE 23RD ST
Oklahoma City

WERHUN ELECTRIC CO INC

1317 SILVER ASH ST
Oklahoma City

WESCO DISTRIBUTING INC

500 N PENNSYLVANIA AVE
Oklahoma City

WETHERBEE SYSTEMS INC

516 N VILLA AVE
Oklahoma City

WILKINS ELECTRIC

1828 S 7TH ST
Chickasha

WILSON ELECTRIC

100 N QUAPAH AVE
Oklahoma City

Wolf Electric Inc

10300 West Reno Ave
Yukon

WOLF'S BAKERY-DELI SVC

1032 SW 52ND ST
Oklahoma City

WOLFE WATTIE CO

7601 BROADWAY EXT
Oklahoma City

WOLFENBARGER ELECT CO

PO BOX 130
Bethany

WOMACK ELECTRIC

6829 SW 59TH ST
Oklahoma City

WOODARD ELECTRIC

3204 ARIZONA AVE
Chickasha

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