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Over 9,961 reviews for
Norfolk Insulation Contractors from people just like you.

"We received multiple quotes from multiple companies: a pest control company and a popular foundation company. We decided to go with TSR based on price and full" scope of the work. TSR was able to provide all the services to fit our needs. and his crew performed the jobs as proposed in the contract. He went above and beyond to make sure the job was done right. For example, re-hung a downed flex vent from my HVAC unit that was noted by another foundation company during his inspection/ quote. I had an HVAC guy in my crawl space to provide a quote for new HVAC unit and ducting. The HVAC guy noticed the duct on the ground but did not re-hang it. even provided an extra vent, at no charge, because we thought the vent was blocked by the sundeck and not accessible. I had the pest control company re-inspect the crawl space to check termite traps and she noted a major improvement in the overall crawl space environment including humidity levels. I recommend TSR for all your crawl space needs.

-Allan P.

" responded to my call right away and when he came out to give an estimate, he clearly knew what he was talking about. Principally, I wanted" the insulation in about 1/3 of the basement/crawl space to be replaced because it was falling down. I wasn't sure about the whole 'vapor seal' thing. I know a lot of companies are pushing this these days, and for all I know it could be a scam. He did recommend it, and I wanted one not because I was sure that it would keep moisture out of the basement, but because the crawl space floor was sandy, and I didn't want our cat using it as a litter box. Anyway, he said it would be about $475 for the job, but that it would be bumped up to $550 because that was the minimum price for a job. That's too bad that I paid an extra $75 for nothing, but all in all I was surprised at the low price and that he wasn't pushing all kinds of extra things that I "needed". I had heard horror stories from friends who had called similar companies and got a long list of perhaps unnecessary "needed" projects from these types of contractors. He also pointed out that one piece of insulation (which was not going to be replaced) had been installed backwards. I asked if he could fix it for me and he offered to throw it in at no extra cost. We set a date for the next Monday for the work to be done. He wasn't there for the job, but rather it was a couple of 18 year olds. They got the job done quickly, but didn't remove any of the debris from the crawl space floor, which had been part of the original estimate. We had to call to sort it out, he agreed with us and told the guys, so they took out the debris. When they were finished however, there were a few points on which I was not satisfied. There was still a lot of debris on top of the vapor seal that they left, so who knows how much is under the vapor seal? Also, the vapor seal was not put down in one corner where there were some heavy pipes. As for the insulation, there were many little bits hanging down, which was part of the reason I wanted new insulation in the first place, so I didn't think that was quite right. Finally, they did not reverse that piece of installation that had been put in backwards. I called in regards to these a few days later, and he told me that he would have someone out first thing the next morning to deal with these issues. As promised, someone did come the next morning and addressed all of my concerns. All in all I'm satisfied with what I got for my money, but wish there would be a little more quality control on the jobs so I wouldn't have to call back for a second visit.

-Matthew M.

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Local Articles in Norfolk

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

foundation installation

Insulating the outside of your foundation can help lower energy bills and keep your house warmer in winter.

Radiant barrier in attic

HVAC systems work more efficiently with the addition of a reflective barrier as part of your attic insulation.

Angie's Answers


Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Norfolk


Logos was great. Very thorough and remarkable follow up to offer suggestions and names of contractors who could help us. We would highly recommend them. We have followed a number of their recommendations, and hope to do more over time. It was helpful to know that new windows would provide only modest energy savings and that other ...More measures could be more helpful, such insulations in various parts of the attic and basement, caulking leaks. They gave us the name of a contractor who repaired our sliding glass door so we didn't have to purchase a new one. I thought at first the price was high, but now I think we got more than our money's worth.
- Phyllis H.

We had a smell coming from under our home and we could smell it every time we opened the closets; it was terrible. They came out to investigate and decided to put up a vapor under the floor. We thought it was very cost effective as it kept the smell out of the home. They did a very good job and we have had no problems with the smell since.
- PAM C.

We have been employing them for over twenty years, and they were the company who installed the original insulation. Not much has changed in twenty years; they are still hard working and polite. The job took a few hours for them to finish, and all of the old insulation was taken away. We have already noticed a difference in the internal temperature of the house.

We have an older home (built 1929) which had old and rusted foundation vents which needed to be replaced.
We had a small foundation access door which was replaced with larger commercial door
We also needed the crawl space cleaned and vapor put down
Lastly, old radiator pipes and newer copper were mostly uninsulated ...More and so we had this done also.
They did a very nice job of installing new vents - the existing holes in the double brick foundation were expanded and they did very nice job without damaging remaining brick. The new access door likewise is a nice addition.
We immediately noticed an improvement in hot water temperature after pipes were wrapped under the house and I actually turned back the hot water heater a few degrees
The only minor issue was that the insulation sleeves for the old radiator pipes had to be custom ordered and this added another 500.00 to the job that was not in the original estimate. Mr. was very upfront about the additional cost and given the fine job that they did, I did not have any problem with the additional expense. They actually came on a Sunday afternoon to finish the job and it took another 4 hours to finish the pipe insulation.
I found that Mr. & his crew lived up to the strong reputation I expected from previous reviews.

- Thomas M.

Went very well. Communication was excellent and we were given various options on costs and the effect on the R rating of our insulation as well. Work was done over a two day period - first day was the foam, and the 2nd day was the insulation. Workmen were punctual, polite and efficient! They covered all of our items in the attic - I will admit some ...More foam got on them, but not much and it can be easily removed if needed.
The effect it hand on our upstairs heating was dramatic, so I wished we'd done this a long time ago!
- Richard F.

Mercaldo is skilled, polite, punctual and responsive at every stage of the process of evaluating, estimating, and performing work we have had done over several occasions.
The first occasion was replacing an original construction craftsman bungalow entry door and sidelights with a customer-purchased replacement. Even though ...More this entailed resizing the opening from 86" high to 80", was able to complete the job securely and such that the results appear to be original. He meticulously matched the existing architectural moldings with custom replacements, where needed and finished the framing so well that one cannot tell that the taller door was there - nor that the shorter door is not appropriate, both visually and architecturally, to the space. The outside is equally well done and installed so that the custom door sill was retained. All facets of the job, from preparation to cleanup, were fast, efficient and well-executed.
Our next occasion was for the insulation in the basement/crawl area and some miscellaneous trim work around doorways in our family room/hallway/kitchen area. As with the door, provided detailed and responsive feedback as we worked with him to define the scope of work. Once we settled on a plan, he provided us regular notification as to planning up to the scheduled week for the work to be performed. At that time, he coordinated start date and time and proceeded to complete this work as planned. He routinely goes out of his way to ensure he delights his customers - not just with the routine excellence he demonstrates in the work he performs, but in the little extras he brings to the job. In the case of the insulation of our basement area, he observed that the original portion of the house (under which the full basement sits) was built with a rather large gap between the foundation and the overlap of the siding. This seems to have been usual for that vintage but resulted in significant air incursion that was essentially above the insulation he was installing. To prevent this leak, he customized a foam and batting combination that effectively limited the air from entering above the insulation - allowing the basement to vent without allowing conditioned air from escaping the living areas. In the crawl area, he noted that a pump (supporting geothermal) was missing sound insulation on a side not visible from the basement and took the extra step to finish that enclosure - greatly reducing the amount of sound that travels to the living area when the heating/cooling system is in operation. As with the door, he completed this work and cleaned the area well.
Overall, we are well pleased with and and are already planning the next two or three projects for him to complete.
- Jill B.

We had cellulose insulation removed from the attic to facilitate electrical work. Following the completion of the electrical work we had cellulose insulation blown into the attic as well as batting installed in two scuttles. The dispatcher and I worked out a schedule a week before the work started and he called on the business day before the work to ...More confirm the schedule. On both days, the crew arrived on time, worked quickly, and reviewed their work with me when they finished. I appreciated their cooperative attitude and willingness to supplement insulation where I requested. After the crew left I found some space I forgot to ask them to stuff with batting. I called the office asking for some extra batting that I could use to fill the gap. They said no problem and the gentleman who brought the batting that same afternoon insisted on instalingl it. Made my day.
- David R.

We had issues in our crawl space, broken air duct, insulation problems. So we called . They came right away, checked crawl space, and gave us a very reasonable estimate. One day later, they came to fix everything and did a very good job.
- Feng L.

Insulation Contractors in Norfolk

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

7 Services Inc

1700 Benefit Rd

A & A Insulation

PO Box 6082

A & J Home Remodeling

3212 South 13th Rd


Virignia Beach

A-1 Home Specialist, Inc

1037 Patrick Henry Way
Virginia Beach

A-1 Inc Exterminators

1704 S Park Ct

AAAA Self Storage & Moving

1332 Virginia Beach Blvd
Virginia Beach

Accel Pest & Termite Control

544 Central Dr
Virginia Beach

Ace Handyman Window Division Inc.

200 Commerce Cir

Ace Home Improvements

5629 Normandy Ave
Virginia Beach

Ace Renovations

320 53rd Street

ACME Animal Removal & Bee Control Services

5344 E Princess Anne Rd

Air Duct Care

801 Vanderbilt Ave
Virginia Beach

AKN Enterprises


Alexander Realty & Class A Builder

4604 Warwick Blvd.
Newport News

Aljase LLC

234 N Witchduck Rd
Virginia Beach

All American Home Improvements

3340 Dietz Dr

All Trades



1209 Baker Rd.
Virginia Beach

Amer Building Inspection Services Inc

2364 Rookery Way
Virginia Beach

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Insulation Svc LLC

4018 Seaboard Ct

Applied Mechanical Resources Inc

748 Lord Dunmore Dr
Virginia Beach

ArtDivine Painting, A Home Improvement Company

916 Westwind Place
Virginia Beach

Associated Independent Contractors Inc

PO Box 64307
Virginia Beach

Atlantic Exterminating Company Inc.

734 City Center Boulevard
Newport News


4701 Bromfield Ave
Virginia Beach

Bah Hum Bug Pest & Termite Inc

203 Expressway Ct
Virginia Beach

Bayshore Construction, Inc

3101 Virginia Beach Blvd
Virginia Beach

BCC Services Inc.

538 Wythe Creek Road

Beach Home Improvements

4408 smokey lake drive
Virginia Beach

Beach Windows & Siding

3200 Dam Neck Rd
Virginia Beach

Better Built Restoration Inc

1982 Northgate Commerce Pkwy Ste 7E

Brabble Insulation, Inc. Of VA

P.O. Box 10027

brinks flooring

1133 woodland terrace drive

Bug Busters Pest Control Services Inc.

1400 W. Third St.


PO Box 2157
Virginia Beach


3550 E Virginia Beach Blvd

Cardial Carpentry LLC

15160 Ashby Way West

Carlson Home Improvements

708 Queen Elizabeth Dr
Virginia Beach

CAT Team 1 Cleaning & Restoration

3673 sylvan lane
Virginia Beach


2008 Aloma Drive
Virginia Beach

Clean Air Solutions Inc.

2768 Mulberry Loop
Virginia Beach

Coastal Virginia Remodelers

4811 lauderdale ave
Virginia Beach

Coastline Construction LLC

680 Pinebrook Dr
Virginia Beach

Coastline Construction LLC

680 Pinebrook Dr
Virginia Beach

Colonial Exterminating Enterprises Inc

810 Forrest Dr
Newport News

Colony Construction & Home Improvement Inc

11861 Canon Blvd
Newport News

Commonwealth Property Services

2289 S Military Hwy

Crawl Masters

5905 Blackwater Rd
Virginia Beach

Custom Home Improvement & Repairs LLC

2000 General Booth Blvd
Virginia Beach

Customer Service Enterprise

6 maid marion circle
Newport News


Virginia Beach


1041 Ferry Plantation Rd.
Virginia Beach

D&D Siding & Remodeling Inc.

500 Central Dr
Virginia Beach

Danza's Heating & Cooling & Sheet Metal Works

3807 Whitechapel Arch

Daveco Contracting

5209 Carolanne Dirve/ Home base
Virginia Beach

DB's Handyman Service LLC

2484 Bayview Ave.
Virginia Beach

DJ Construction

2560 Piney Bark Drive
Virginia Beach

Done Right Handyman Svc

501 Mooney Rd

Drylie Construction Contracting

3912 Windsor Woods BLVD
Virginia Beach



E T Lawson

4 IVY Home Rd

East Coast Contracting, Inc.

6022 Jefferson Ave
Newport News

EcoFoam USA

109G Gainsborough SQ

Ecovative Energy Inc

1102 Buckingham Avenue



Emergency Restoration Services LLC

1461 London Bridge Road
Virginia Beach

Energy Evaluations and Enhancements

1929 Killey Street
Virginia Beach


Manning Road

Excel Builders Inc.

4224 Blackwater Road
Virginia Beach


3640 south plaza trail
Virginia Beach

General Contracting Serv.

1090 Kempsville rd

General Repairs LLC

4901 Manor Avenue

Get It Done Contracting, Inc.

2133 Upton Drive
Virginia Beach

Getem Termite & Pest Control

1261 W 42nd St

Gilbert & Son Moisture & Structural Services

2768 Mulberry Loop
Virginia Beach

Guy Smith Heating & Cooling

221 Pennsylvania Ave
Virginia Beach

H&L Services

606 Roxbery Industrial Ctr
Charles City


530 W 24TH ST

Hampton Roads Termite and Pest Control Inc

609 Innovation Dr



Hawkins Heating & Air Conditioning LLC

4445 Corporation Lane
Virginia Beach

Heidi's Comfort Zone

3300 Bridge Rd


15193 WYATT CT

Home Town Remodeling

3200 Dam Neck Rd
Virginia Beach

House Call Co

3301 Mariner Ave

J & N Construction Services

408 Britnie Court
Newport News

Jayhawk Exteriors Inc

1824 Engle Ave

Jazi Builders, Inc.

476 Richneck Rd
Newport News

JES Foundation Repair

1741 Corporate Landing Parkway
Virginia Beach

JNS Pest Control

PO Box 13763

Johnson & Johnson Remodeling

2245 Wake forest st
Virginia Beach

Johnson's Junk & Trash Removal

2012 Queen St

JP Harris Construction

344 Garrison Pl
Virginia Beach

JWS Contracting


K&R Crawl Space Solutions

4740 Quinwood Lane
Virginia Beach

Kaapland & Company, Inc.

1222 Executive Blvd., Suite 102



Kingz Touch

3408 Newport Dr

LWB Professional Subcontractor,LLC.

3711 Victory Blvd

Maintenance Perfection

205 grace st.

Mako Maintenance

119 B
Bruton Ct

Manousos Enterprises Inc.

1753 Joplin Lane
Virginia Beach

Marc's General Repair

4902 George Washington Memorial Highway

Marquee Homes Inc.

538 Wythe Creek Road

Martz Plumbing & Construction LLC

1403 Larkview Dr
Virginia Beach

Matt's Repair

421 Dauphin Ln
Virginia Beach

Mechanical Service Co Inc

805 Seahawk Cir
Virginia Beach

MH Drywall

PO BOX 15656
Newport News

Mid-Atlantic Contracting

1625 Peoples Road

morales services


Mr. Handyman Williamsburg and The Peninsula

736 City Center Blvd #B
Newport News

Mr. Rogers Windows

1019 Eden Way North

Northern Craftsman LLC


Northridge Contractors Inc

3575 Bridge Rd Suite 8-439

NW Contracting, Co.

1264 Parkside Pl


Virginia Beach

Paramount Builders Inc

501 Central Dr.
Virginia Beach

Peninsula Handyman Services

89 Sandy Bay Drive



Poquoson Construction, LLC

P.O. Box 2041

PPC Construction - Landmark Homes

P. O. Box 15823

Premier Roofing & Siding Contractors, Inc

1215 Bainbridge Blvd
Chesapeake & Newport News

Priority Pest Services

1509 Technology Dr

Provost Construction

273 Granby Street Suite 200

Pyramid Roofing

2635 Arkansas Ave

Quality Building Prods

PO Box 9386

Quality Building Products

905 Executive Ct

Quality Built Exteriors

929 Ventures Wy

R.L. SYKES Heating, A/C & Plumbing

3521 Colley Avenue

Random Task

1120 Buford Ct.

RAS Remodeling

4235 Gadwall pl
Virginia Beach

Reliance Pest & Termite Inc

644 Prosperity Way

Remodel USA

605 Hampton Park Blvd

Richwaters Plumbing and Drain LLC.

158 Stony Ridge Ave.

Rorrer Construction

3730 Cardinal Ln

RS Andrews of Tidewater

620 Lincoln St


5385 Cobbs Station Rd
Cape Charles

RWA Restoration LLC

845 Crepe Myrtle Ln
Virginia Beach

S & J Home Repairs

208 beech ct

Segar Contracting

3712 Mantle Ln
Virginia Beach


Virginia Beach

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Smart Services

1385 Fordham Dr
Virginia Beach

Smart Services

1385 Fordham Dr
Virginia Beach

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Sours Contracting, INC

10445 Southampton Pkwy


Newport News

Sturdevant Construction

708 Gum Rock Ct
Newport News

Sweetland's Heating & Cooling

3101 Lafayette Blvd

T-N-T Construction

308 boundary rd

Taylor Construction

3617 Essex Cir


2709 Sonic Dr
Virginia Beach

The Air Conditioning Co

1129 Cherrytree Ln

The Crawlspace Company

1028 Sanderson Rd

Tidewater Insulators

5610-B East Virginia Beach Blvd

Tidewater Roofing

812 Plum Ave

TKJD Contracting LLC

Hartley Street

TMG Construction and Properties LLC

120 Pennsylvania Ave
Virginia Beach

Tom Lane Contracting Inc

15287 Diascund View Trl

United Pest Control Co Inc

11834 Canon Blvd
Newport News

VBG Home Repairs

5200 Texas Ave

Vick Homes, Inc.

Norfolk, VA

Virginia Energy Pros

3972 Holland Rd. Ste. 103
Virginia Beach




12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Waterside Pest Services

1809 Indian River Rd
Virginia Beach


Virginia Beach

Western Pest Services

4205 Virginia Beach Blvd
Virginia Beach

What's It Worth? LLC

80 Hermitage Rd
Newport News


PO Box 405

wood chux cabinets llc

3013 belle haven dr

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