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" came by for an initial consultation and spent quite a bit of time going over the house and conducting tests. Afterwards he took the information" he gathered and put together a good, better and best proposal for us to consider. He came back to the house to go over the proposals and ended up customizing an additional proposal based on our immediate needs and budget. On the day of the work, was there to meet the crew, introduce them to us and make sure we all were comfortable with them and the work they were going to conduct. The guys that did the work were highly professional and took extra care in ensuring that things were done properly. Before they were done, arrived again to make sure things were on track and when they finished he did additional testing to see the results of their work. These guys are great, I will probably have them back out in 2016 to do additional work.

-Dustin T.

"Failed to vent one bathroom after I inspected roof. Contacted numerous times (even sent photo of roof) and he failed to follow up. At last" contact states he is no longer in the contracting business, but that I "got a lot of work for my money". Problem is I did not get the work I paid for. I would not recommend using for any type of business transaction.

-Scott R.

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Local Articles in Nashville

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

foundation installation

Insulating the outside of your foundation can help lower energy bills and keep your house warmer in winter.

Radiant barrier in attic

HVAC systems work more efficiently with the addition of a reflective barrier as part of your attic insulation.

Angie's Answers


Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Nashville


came out to my house to give me an estimate. He was kind, respectful, and easy to talk with. Even though his company technically could do the work we need, he let me know that it is not their specialty and that we may be more satisfied going with a different company. He volunteered to put me in touch with the right people and ...More proceeded to take the time to make several phone calls to his contacts to find out who I should be working with. Even though probably won't be making any money off of us (this time around), they went out of their way to be helpful.
I will add that I am a woman on the younger side, and was the first contractor / handy-person to visit my home in the last year (and there have been many) who did NOT speak down to me or make inappropriately sexist comments. My brief experience with is that they are pleasant, helpful, honest and respectful folks.
- Hilary S.

I can't express what a pleasure it was to work with . We are DIY-ers by necessity, and we occupy the house that needed to be insulated. It is a "story-and-a-half" 90-yr-old bungalow, meaning the attic space is tall enough to use as living space and had originally been finished as one open space with tounge-and-grove ...More "box-car"-siding on walls and ceiling. It had been divided into rooms for my children three decades ago, and since reverted mostly to storage again. Behind the siding and ceiling was ancient loose cellulose insulation, really nasty with coal soot and roofing debris.
First I moved as much storage "stuff" to the center and closet of the attic as I could and cut minimal holes in the paneling. Then came out with their huge vacuum and removed all the insulation from behind the paneling that they could. One man even crawled through the area under the peak with the vacuum hose. This made it so much less Awful for me to rip out the wood!
After the paneling was removed, I moved all the "stuff" to one side of the attic and came out and sprayed the empty side. I then placed flooring under the eves on both sides and moved all my stuff to the sprayed side, and contacted again. They then came out and completed the project by spraying the other side. This took place over several months as I have lots of demands on my life and only so much energy for heavy-duty projects. invoiced me individually for each visit, which was fine, and still came out to the original estimate.
Foamworks was easy to communicate with and always showed up when they said they would. I just don't know any other way we could have done this, and I am so grateful to and the crews for working with us! And the insulation makes an amazing difference in temperature and sound! I look forward to completing the project of restoring this part of the house to a quiet and comfortable living space.
- rebecca B.

We had our current 40 year insulation removed from the attic prior to having new heating unit installed. Other insulation companies said they do not remove insulation, only install. After having heating unit installed, came back and blew in new insulation, put in a thermal cover at the top of the pull-down stairs to prevent ...More heat leakage and also put covers over the attic lights. responded immediately to my first call, had an excellent demeanor, was very thorough and we were extremely pleased with his work. We like working with local companies and, since and his wife bought the company from his Dad, we felt like they have an interest in providing excellent long-term customer service.
- Susan H.

Overall, I was very pleased with . They did the work promised, on time, professionally. In addition, when one item turned out more complex that originally thought, , my main contact, did additional research to land on the best possible solution, including ordering additional parts at no additional cost. ...More They weren't the lowest bid I received, but their bid included everything I needed done and my contact with them gave me confidence that they would do the job right. I easily recommend .
- Michael L.

When the service was first scheduled, the provider had to reschedule due to some mechanical problems with the machine that is used to blow the insulation. The service was rescheduled for the following week. Two guys came on the rescheduled day. They set up the machine and got to work. The entire process only took about 2 hours. I was very pleased with ...More the provider. The installers were professional and polite. I would use this company again and would recommend them.
- Patricia R.

The day of the work, 's workers called to let me know that they were on the way and arrived on time. They were mindful of covering up my carpet and cleaned up everywhere they worked afterwards. Two men worked consistently and finished all the work in one day. They were friendly, polite, answered questions, and explained ...More things well.
NES scheduled an inspection of 's work on another day. In order to receive a rebate as part of TVA's program all work had to be inspected and approved. sent his workers on the day of the inspection in order to make sure that all work had been done satisfactorily so that I would receive the rebate. TVA made a few minor suggestions and 's men completed the work that day. I was able to qualify for the rebate because of their attention to the repairs on the spot..
Finally, I requested that add insulation in two small places that were omitted in the basement. Because they did not have the insulation with them that day, it was done on a day that was convenient for me.
I was very satisfied with the work and 's ability to problem solve in a practical and cost conscious manner.
- Jean H.

I felt that my home was insufficiently or ineffectively insulated and wanted to investigate improving the attic insulation and adding insulation in the walls. I also wanted to see if anyone had a solution to getting insulation under the floor of garage converted to a master suite, where there was only about 14' clearance and the access to which ...More was blocked by plumbing lines. I called three companies for estimates. One of them came out and looked and never got back to me. Of the other two, the work recommended by both for the attic was similar, but only at could offer a solution for the insulating under the master suite. Both and the other company recommended making adding insulation in the walls only as a last resort if I felt the other efforts didn't make a significant enough change in efficiency. However, did offer a way to apply foam in the walls by drilling small holes into the cavities from the outside, in the mortar between bricks that could then be cosmetically resealed, whereas the other company said it would have to be done from the inside with loose-fill through large holes, leaving significant drywall repair in the aftermath. 's estimate came in significantly below the other company, especially considering it included the master suite project that the other company said couldn't be done. Furthermore, emailed me lots of helpful spec sheets and industry info to help me make an informed decision. I hired him for the job in the attic and crawlspace (including under the master suite), and accepted his advice to do nothing now in the walls. We prepared for the job by removing everything from the attic, an unfinished space accessed by pull-down stairs, where we had the usual family junk stored on some floor decking. had a dumpster brought in, and after a couple of days of prep work he vacuumed out the old insulation from the attic. (The hoses were run through an exterior vent so weren't dragged through the living area of the house.) Then he began applying the spray foam insulation, during which he insisted that we be out of the house due to the fumes while he was actually spraying. We could return when he finished for the day. He rigged up a powerful exhaust fan which he left on and made the house safe to inhabit at night. He kept a large trailer parked here throughout the job containing his equipment. There was a one-week delay by his chemical supplier in getting the ignition that was to be applied to the foam as a last step, so switched up his planned order of the project and worked in the crawlspace during that time. His solution for the tight space under the master suite was to disconnect the plumbing and drain lines, cap them off and remove them so he could crawl into the space and apply spray under the floor. Remember, this was only 14" clearance...and is a tall guy! Once he was done, he reconnected everything. The plumbing impact was limited to only one work day so it did not cause an unreasonable inconvenience to us. Finally, he got his ignition chemicals and was able to finish in the attic. (Again, we had to vacate due to fumes during the work day.) The whole job took about 3 weeks. did a lot of problem-solving on-the-fly during the project as peculiarities to our situation arose. For instance, he had to remove some roofing on the outside to get into a small area that was not accessible from this inside, and then replace the roofing. He also did most of the work on miserably hot days in an un-air-conditioned attic space. He made helpful suggestions for steps to include the next time we re-roof our house, which will be in the next 2 years. He cleaned up after himself every day, was friendly and polite, and kept us informed about his progress. The only B-grade I gave was on punctuality, which partly reflects the delay caused by his supplier (beyond his control), and partly reflects on the whole project taking longer than we originally expected, even accounting for the supplier problem. Stuff came up that nobody expected, and he dealt with it. My caveat to prospective customers is that is a one-man operation, so he doesn't have helpers who could make the work go faster; on the other hand, he takes complete ownership of job quality. Delays are a fact of life in home improvement projects. The tradeoff in timing vs. quality (and price) was well worth it. I recommend and without reservation, and would hire him again.

- Kingston S.

I can't say enough good about this company. They were prompt, responsive, thorough, great at communicating without being pushy and did an excellent job with our project. They connected us with the TVA energy efficiency initiative through NES which helped us with the Federal rebates and tax credits, as well as initial assessment and follow-up ...More inspection of 's work.
Clearly this wasn't an inexpensive project and we went with because of the recommendation of others who have used them in the past and been happy with their work and service. We also consulted with a family member who is a structural engineer and were able to pick and choose the items of the plan which were most important to us at this time.
We would absolutely use Innovate for future work and recommend them to others.

Insulation Contractors in Nashville

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

31 W Instation Co Inc

118 Flat Ridge Rd

31W Insulation

7434 Cycle Ln

A&J Handyman Service

1412 Brick Church Pike

A-1 Insulation

Po Box 486
Ashland City

Ablend Roofing

628 Transit Ave

Above All Leveling

10420 Bromeliad Rd

Adams Construction

110 Circle Dr

Advanced Crawlspace Solutions

125 Greystone Drive

Advanced Solutions

1090 Charlie Reed Rd

AE Roofing & Exteriors

763 Halltown Rd

Affordable Heat and Air Service

3306 Overhill Ct

Aim High

4950 Haley Ln

Airstream Heating & Cooling LLC

2441-Q Old Fort Pkwy Suite# 323

All American Painting GP

PO Box 254

Alpha Absolute LLC

821 General George Patton Rd

American Home Design Inc

880 Conference Dr

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Integrity Construction

4029 Brimestone Wy


5969 Woodbury Pike

Apex Energy Solutions of Tennessee

5010 Linbar Dr

Arctic Barrier

8340 Stewarts Bend Dr

ARiES Energy LLC

4600 Chambliss Ave

Armor Roofing

533 Church Street Suite 107

Armstrong Remodeling

2817 West End Rd.

Arrow Roofing and Solar

8273 Blankenship Rd

Attic Barrier Insulation

141 Elnora Drive

Attic Insulators

217 S Maple St

Attic Wrangler

1076 Robertson Road

Attics to Floors and More

3728 priest lake dr

Austin's Construction

709 Croley Dr.

AYS Construction Services L.L.C.

300 Aaronwood Court
Old Hickory

B & C Home Improvement

2740 Painted Pony Dr

B & R Properties LLC

2255 Memorial Blvd

Bentley's Heating and Air

109 Hartmann Dr

Bill's Contracting & Remodeling

1043 Hogan Branch Rd

Bone Dry Roofing, Inc. - Nashville

165 Little Green St.

Bryan's handyman service

231 Bonnafield Dr

Built Right Construction

809 Jay Ct



CCC Roofing

486 Bell Rd

Centurion Stone & Exteriors

50 Van Buren St

Columbia Crawl Space & Spray Foam Insulation

3211 Neeley Hollow Rd

Cone Contractors

14 Bronson Pt Apt 208

Cornerstone Garage Door Company LLC

3397 Old Franklin Rd
Cane Ridge

Cre8ive Construction

1316 8th Street
Old Hickory

Custred Insulation

115 Tattnall Court

D. Reynolds Construction

125 Southside Park Dr.

D.A.S Building and Remodeling

2505 Brittany Dr

Davidson Roofing & Construction

1133 Harold Dr

DeLano Home Improvements

PO Box 1354

DeMoss Renovations

7595 DeMoss Lane

Derryberry's Heat and Air

PO Box 1551

DHC Comfort Inc

PO Box 1329
White House

Diamond Plate Construction

6264 Pettus Road

Dillards Renovations and Repair

4729 Hunters Crossing Dr
Old Hickory

Doc Air

4014 Flagstone Ct

Double H Home Solutions

729 Hallcrest Ct.



Dudco Vinyl Siding Inc

324 Meadowlawn Dr

Durante Home Exteriors

2512 Commerce Sq W.

E3 Innovate LLC

909 E Trinity Lane

Elan', LLC

PO Box 698
Old Hickory

Elite Builders & Restoration LLC

6736 Autumn Oaks Dr

English Home Improvements Inc

6320 Hwy 41A
Pleasant View

Exterior Energy Solutions LLC

205 McGavock Pike



FoamWorx, Inc.

901 N Hill Drive

Foley Remodeling

112 Midtown Ct

Forst Builders LLC

116 Gilbert Dr

Fresh Start Restoration & Cleaning

157 Space Park South



Fusion Investments Corporation

2206 Dortch Ave

G&B Carpentry

171 Factory St

George Wozniak Construction

308 Plus Park Blvd

Ginn General Contractor

2216 Centerpoint

Goddard Construction Co LLC

9695 Lebanon Rd
Mount Juliet


12000 Terrapin St

H&H Home Improvements

507 Prichard St

Handi Andy

160 Groves Dr

HandyPros Property Services

113 Plumlee Rd.

Healthy Indoor Technologies

521 Michele Dr

Hensley's Heating & Cooling Inc.

2401 Clarksville Pike Ste.110

Heritage Heating & Cooling LLC

128 Holiday Ct





Insurance Contractors Inc


Iron Home Consruction

320 Issac Drive


PO Box 680548

J.D. Jackson Contracting Co

2103 23rd Avenue N

Jackson's Maintenance Service

6304 Robertson Rd

Jolly Home Improvements

2631 Mission Ridge Drive

KG Construction LLC

427 Cumberland Hills Dr

Kimbro Air

134 Volunteer Dr

Landmark Services of Tennessee

PO Box 158825

Lebens Improvements

7315 Coldwater Rd.

Lee Company

331 Mallory Station Rd.


1635 Woodard Ave Apt A

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

living Treasures

3226 Dark Woods Dr.

Lowry Roofing Inc

2550 Meridian BLVD

M&M Buildings and Renovations, LLC

4117 Hillsboro Pk. Ste 103 #114

MCH: Plumbing, Electrical and More

401 Center St


White House

Millennium Roofing & Construction LLC

PO Box 331594

Montgomery & Associates LLC

1730 General George Patton Drive #212

Moore's Remodeling & Home Repair

P.O. Box 102
Whites Creek



Mr. Roof of Nashville

3536 Central Pike

Myatt Construction LLC

165 Belle Forest Cir # A

Nashville Home Energy

PO Box 92253



Nashville Urban Contracting

1308 Old Gratton Rd

New Life Renovations And Building

7006 Zither Lane
La Vergne

Newsom's Heating & Air

593 Kingdom Rd

Nicholson Home Services


Northwest Exterminating - Nashville

3185 Franklin Road

On Time Improvements

3184 Ewingdale Dr

Prestige Roofing Company

1871 Slaughter Road

Pro Maintnance Plus

845 Netherlands Dr.

Prodigy Roofing

715 Rogues Fork Rd

Professional Roofers Inc

321 Billingsly Ct

Property Services LLC

920 W College St

PuroClean Emergency Property Recovery

2620 Locust Street

Quality Homeworks

3914 East Ridge Drive

R & D Pro Drywall

1027 George Boyd Rd
Ashland City

R.E Construction

713 lake terrace dr

Rapid Restoration, LLC

3610 Kelton Jackson Rd

Reeves Pest Company

4922 Port Royal Rd
Spring Hill

Reliant Home Services

1019 Longhunter Chase Drive
Spring Hill

Republic Roofing & Restoration LLC

91 Peyton Pkwy

Restore, Renew



7103 Tom Jones Ln

Roof Roof Nashville

2250 Southgate Blvd

Roscoe Brown, Inc

410 South Roosevelt St.

Roscoe Brown, Inc.

959 N Thompson Ln

Roscoe Brown, Inc.

807 Poplar Ave

S&G Roofing


Sadler & Company LLC

1011 Wade Avenue

Sealtite Roofing & Restoration

2610 Winford Ave

Shingle Works of Nashville

PO Box 210268

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Snoopy's Construction

3336 Jansing Drive

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

South Wind Construction

5559 Old Millington Rd

Southern Strong Roofing

424 Church St

Springfield Glass & Exteriors

15 N. Walnut St.

Stellar Building Group

5915 Robertson Ave

Steve Wilson's Home Repair & Maintenance

161 New Shackle Island Rd.

Sumner Roofing & Exteriors

115 Powell Dr

Tennessee Contracting Services Inc

127 Powell Dr

Tennessee Craftsmen LLC

PO Box 1173

Tennessee Foundation Services

8421 Horton Highway
College Grove

Tennessee Valley Air

P.O Box 386
Spring Hill


803 Louisville Hwy

The Wills Company


Tony's Heating and Air

120 North Electra St.

Tru Solutions, LLC

2910 Sidco Drive

TSD Development, LLC

2414 Vale Lane

Universal Solutions

788 Dejarnette Ln


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Welsh's Home Repair



PO Box 405

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