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"The day of the work,
's workers called to let me know that they were on the way and arrived on time. They were mindful of covering up" my carpet and cleaned up everywhere they worked afterwards. Two men worked consistently and finished all the work in one day. They were friendly, polite, answered questions, and explained things well. NES scheduled an inspection of
's work on another day. In order to receive a rebate as part of TVA's program all work had to be inspected and approved.
sent his workers on the day of the inspection in order to make sure that all work had been done satisfactorily so that I would receive the rebate. TVA made a few minor suggestions and
's men completed the work that day. I was able to qualify for the rebate because of their attention to the repairs on the spot.. Finally, I requested that
add insulation in two small places that were omitted in the basement. Because they did not have the insulation with them that day, it was done on a day that was convenient for me. I was very satisfied with the work and
's ability to problem solve in a practical and cost conscious manner.

-Jean H.

"I felt that my home was insufficiently or ineffectively insulated and wanted to investigate improving the attic insulation and adding insulation in the walls. I" also wanted to see if anyone had a solution to getting insulation under the floor of garage converted to a master suite, where there was only about 14' clearance and the access to which was blocked by plumbing lines. I called three companies for estimates. One of them came out and looked and never got back to me. Of the other two, the work recommended by both for the attic was similar, but only
could offer a solution for the insulating under the master suite. Both
and the other company recommended making adding insulation in the walls only as a last resort if I felt the other efforts didn't make a significant enough change in efficiency. However,
did offer a way to apply foam in the walls by drilling small holes into the cavities from the outside, in the mortar between bricks that could then be cosmetically resealed, whereas the other company said it would have to be done from the inside with loose-fill through large holes, leaving significant drywall repair in the aftermath.
's estimate came in significantly below the other company, especially considering it included the master suite project that the other company said couldn't be done. Furthermore,
emailed me lots of helpful spec sheets and industry info to help me make an informed decision. I hired him for the job in the attic and crawlspace (including under the master suite), and accepted his advice to do nothing now in the walls. We prepared for the job by removing everything from the attic, an unfinished space accessed by pull-down stairs, where we had the usual family junk stored on some floor decking.
had a dumpster brought in, and after a couple of days of prep work he vacuumed out the old insulation from the attic. (The hoses were run through an exterior vent so weren't dragged through the living area of the house.) Then he began applying the spray foam insulation, during which he insisted that we be out of the house due to the fumes while he was actually spraying. We could return when he finished for the day. He rigged up a powerful exhaust fan which he left on and made the house safe to inhabit at night. He kept a large trailer parked here throughout the job containing his equipment. There was a one-week delay by his chemical supplier in getting the ignition
that was to be applied to the foam as a last step, so
switched up his planned order of the project and worked in the crawlspace during that time. His solution for the tight space under the master suite was to disconnect the plumbing and drain lines, cap them off and remove them so he could crawl into the space and apply spray under the floor. Remember, this was only 14" clearance...and
is a tall guy! Once he was done, he reconnected everything. The plumbing impact was limited to only one work day so it did not cause an unreasonable inconvenience to us. Finally, he got his ignition
chemicals and was able to finish in the attic. (Again, we had to vacate due to fumes during the work day.) The whole job took about 3 weeks.
did a lot of problem-solving on-the-fly during the project as peculiarities to our situation arose. For instance, he had to remove some roofing on the outside to get into a small area that was not accessible from this inside, and then replace the roofing. He also did most of the work on miserably hot days in an un-air-conditioned attic space. He made helpful suggestions for steps to include the next time we re-roof our house, which will be in the next 2 years. He cleaned up after himself every day, was friendly and polite, and kept us informed about his progress. The only B-grade I gave was on punctuality, which partly reflects the delay caused by his supplier (beyond his control), and partly reflects on the whole project taking longer than we originally expected, even accounting for the supplier problem. Stuff came up that nobody expected, and he dealt with it. My caveat to prospective customers is that
is a one-man operation, so he doesn't have helpers who could make the work go faster; on the other hand, he takes complete ownership of job quality. Delays are a fact of life in home improvement projects. The tradeoff in timing vs. quality (and price) was well worth it. I recommend
without reservation, and would hire him again.

-Kingston S.

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Local Articles in Nashville

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

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Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Angie's Answers


Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

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Insulation reviews in Nashville


I can't say enough good about this company. They were prompt, responsive, thorough, great at communicating without being pushy and did an excellent job with our project. They connected us with the TVA energy efficiency initiative through NES which helped us with the Federal rebates and tax credits, as well as initial assessment and follow-up inspection of
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
's work.
Clearly this wasn't an inexpensive project and we went with
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
because of the recommendation of others who have used them in the past and been happy with their work and service. We also consulted with a family member who is a structural engineer and were able to pick and choose the items of the plan which were most important to us at this time.
We would absolutely use
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Innovate for future work and recommend them to others.

The inspector was prompt, professional and pleasant. He did an extensive inspection of my existing home and provided a printed list with pictures of suggestions for improvement. He also provided a list of contractors. He followed up via telephone after the survey and after the work was completed. Very good experience.

Let me start out by saying
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
is a very nice man. He is someone that I would like to go camping and fishing with or that I would like for our daughters to play on the same soccer team. But, I hired
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
as a contractor to add an additional room and covered patio onto my home and his handling of the job and workmanship was horrible to say the least and cost me thousands of additional dollars to correct. I got
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
’s number from a friend who had used him in the past, so I felt he would do a good job. I was very detailed in our initial meeting about what we wanted in the design and functionality of the new space. I gave him a rough layout of the floor plan and SKU numbers for all of the finishes we chose. I was very clear about the fact
that everything had to be inspected and had to be built up to codes. He agreed that was how he operated. From day one the communication between
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his staff was dismal. On numerous occasions I was ask detailed information by his crew because
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was not present to instruct or supervise. During the process, we needed to add new decking and shingles to the roof.
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
did this without pulling the permit and placed the new decking over the old damaged decking, which we found out later is a code violation. When we approached him about this, he claimed, “he didn’t’ know” and was going to get a “
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked

engineer to override the codes dept. He did just that. He blamed the code department for being unfairly strict in their assessment and stated, “They
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
’t know what they were talking about”. The inspector was female and after she left he called her every name in the book. He was very disrespectful. The project that he said would take 4-6 weeks took over 5 months because
he would show up whenever he chose. We would go weeks without seeing or hearing from him. The amount of basic construction building and code requirements that he didn’t know was staggering. He damaged our yard, our fence, and
ultimately built the room he wanted to build, not the room we wanted and paid for. He failed inspection after inspection and was
constantly having to “
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
-rig” our home. We had to hire another contractor to repair his mistakes and while that was being done, he put a
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
against our property. We sent him a check for the final bill just Although he is a very nice man and I’m sure he would be great to sit
next to in church, I would NEVER, under any circumstances, recommend
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked

Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Construction to build anything.

- Scott G.

Worked off an estimate they gave us 2 years ago. There were no increases in price!
They scheduled a date and arrived promptly and worked professionally.
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
inspected what his team had done all along the way and made sure several things were redone or done deeper. I would have them back, in fact I asked for an estimate on a couple of other things.
- Dave B.

Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was wonderful to work with and did an excellent job! He quoted it at a fair price and did the work as we discussed and even cleaned up before he left. He left me with a smile!
- Louis F.

I initially went through
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Electric to get a home energy audit. The inspector provided a detailed report on my home, recommended work, and potential savings. I contacted
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Solutions because they were on the approved contractor list.
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was very responsive to initial inquiry, and came to the house to review the report and look at the house. Based on his observations, he recommended crawlspace encapsulation, air sealing, and cellulose attic insulation. Their bid was inline with the other bids that I received. The reason I went with this company is because they were the most thorough in their proposal, are a locally-owned company, and were willing to work with me on scheduling.
The team took a total of three days to complete the work. On the first day they did an initial Blower Door test and found the house was very leaky (I don't recall the numbers). That day, they did most of the crawlspace work and prepped the attic. On the second day, they blew the cellulose into the attic. Then,
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came an inspected the work. Based on his assessment, the team came back for a third day to fine tune the crawlspace work, including building me a new frame for my crawlspace door, and an insulated "lid" for the attic opening. They repeated the Blower Door test and then searched the house for leaks, caulking and sealing everything they could find. The test revealed a much improved rating.
The team cleaned up after themselves, were courteous, friendly, and efficient. I would recommend
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Solutions for your energy audit and insulation work.

- Barbara O.

They were here on time, very helpful on how long it would take to do the job, cleaned up everything. The only thing is they forgot to replace the door to the crawl space, found it open two days later. Very pleased with their work.
- Richard B.

I had a TVA energy audit conducted and was looking for a company to blow in insulation in my attic. They came out and gave me a great estimate for the work. About a week and a half afterwards they came out to do the work. Total it took about 3-4 hours for the attic access to be rebuilt and the insulation to be put in. The access opening is tiny, so I was really impressed by how quickly the work was done. I had a great experience with the company and will certainly be using them to replace some gutters when I get the
Nashville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
- Anne T.

All Insulation Contractors in Nashville, TN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!





A-1 Insulation

Po Box 486
Ashland City

Ablend Roofing

628 Transit Ave





Action Tn

6641 Upton Ln

Adams Construction

110 Circle Dr

Advanced Solutions

1090 Charlie Reed Rd

AE Roofing & Exteriors

1195 Louisville Hwy

Affordable Heat and Air Service

3306 Overhill Ct



All American Painting GP

PO Box 254

Alpha Absolute LLC

821 General George Patton Rd

American Home Design

880 Conference Dr

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Integrity Construction

4029 Brimestone Wy



Andrews Construction

109 Galion Dr

Apex Energy Solutions of Tennessee

5010 Linbar Dr

Arctic Barrier

8340 Stewarts Bend Dr

Armor Roofing

533 Church Street Suite 107

Armstrong Remodeling

2817 West End Rd.

Attic Insulators

217 S Maple St

Austin's Construction

709 Croley Dr.

Avenue Exteriors / Gutter Guards Direct

810 Oak Meadow Dr

B & C Home Improvement

2740 Painted Pony Dr

B & D Construction

5006 Bonnahill Dr

Baker Roofing Co

517 Mercury St


Ashland City

Bentley's Heating and Air

109 Hartmann Dr

Bessler's Home Improvements

2417 Lee Drive
Pleasant View

Best Choice Home Services

1017 Fitzroy Cir
Thompsons Station

Bill's Contracting & Remodeling

1043 Hogan Branch Rd


1231 NW Broad St Ste 104

Bryan's handyman service

231 Bonnafield Dr



CCC Roofing

486 Bell Rd

Centurion Stone & Exteriors

50 Van Buren St

Classic Handyman Co Inc

306 46th Ave N

Clear Choice Roofing

2100 Southbridge Parkway Birmingham AL

Cobble Construction


Cornerstone Garage Door Company, LLC

3397 Old Franklin Rd
Cane Ridge


3129 Barnes Bend Drive

Cre8ive Construction

1316 8th Street
Old Hickory

Critter Control

9044 S Harpeth Ct

Custred Insulation

115 Tattnall Court

D & J Enterprise, Inc.

PO Box 682207

D & R Siding Co LLC

2320 Hwy 41A S

D.A.S Building and Remodeling

2505 Brittany Dr

Dale Insulation

2111 Antioch Pike

Davidson Roofing & Construction

1133 Harold Dr

DeLano Home Improvements

P.O.Box 1354

Derryberry's Heat and Air

PO Box 1551

DHC Comfort Inc

PO Box 1329
White House

Dillards Renovations and Repair

4729 Hunters Crossing Dr
Old Hickory

Dixie Homecrafters

6981 Eastgate Blvd

Doc Air

4014 Flagstone Ct

Dohler Contracting LLC

1413 Beech Hollow Ct

Don Baze Handyman

5112 Old Nashville Hwy

Donelson Air Service Experts

1134 Murfreesboro Rd

Double H Home Solutions

729 Hallcrest Ct.



Dudco Vinyl Siding Inc

324 Meadowlawn Dr

Durante Home Exteriors

2512 Commerce Sq W.

E.L. Foust Company Inc

754 N Industrial Dr

E3 Innovate LLC

909 E. Trinity Lane

Eco Air Heating & Cooling

235 Noah Dr

Elan`, LLC

P.O Box 698
Mount Juliet

Exterior Energy Solutions LLC

205 McGavock Pike





FoamWorx, Inc.

3109 Ambrose Ave

Foley Remodeling

112 Midtown Court

Forst Builders LLC

116 Gilbert Drive

Fresh Start Restoration & Cleaning

157 Space Park South



Fusion Investments Corporation

2206 Dortch Ave

G&B Carpentry

171 Factory St

George Wozniak Construction

308 Plus Park Blvd

Ginn General Contractor

2230 Centerpoint

Goddard Construction Co LLC

9695 Lebanon Rd
Mount Juliet


12000 Terrapin St

H&H Home Improvements

507 Prichard St

Handi Andy

160 Groves Drive

HandyPros Property Services

113 Plumlee Rd.

Hastings Management

4112 Meadow View Circle
Pleasant View



Healthy Indoor Technologies

521 Michele Dr



Hometeam Inspection Svc

209 Cedar Forest Dr



Insurance Contractors Inc


Integrity Roofing TN

2029 Lincoln Rd
Spring Hill


PO Box 680548


4348 Hwy 431

J.D. Jackson Contracting Co

2103 23rd Avenue N

Jerry's Home Repair Service

PO Box 732
Ashland City

JFour Group Inc / Arrow Roofing and Solar

230 Stones River Mall Blvd

Jolly Home Improvements

2631 Mission Ridge Drive

Kenney & Johnson A/C & Heating Services

3302 Beasley Bend Road

KG Construction LLC

427 Cumberland Hills Dr

Kimbro Air

134 Volunteer Dr

Klean Aire Care Services, Inc.

4636 Lbanon Pike

Landmark Services of Tennessee

PO Box 158825

LBHI Services

109 Nokes Dr

Lebens Improvements

7315 Coldwater Rd.

Lee Company

331 Mallory Station Rd


1635 Woodard Ave Apt A

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Lowry Roofing Inc

2550 Meridian BLVD

M&M Buildings and Renovations, LLC

4117 Hillsboro Pk. Ste 103 #114


White House

Mid State Air Conditioning & Heating

7102 Lake View Dr.

Millennium Roofing & Construction LLC

PO Box 331594

Moore's Remodeling & Home Repair

P.O. Box 102
Whites Creek



Motor Dynamics of Tennessee, LLC

242 West Main Street PMB #137

Mr Maintanence

917 Allen Rd.

Mr. Roof of Nashville

3536 Central Pike

Myatt Construction LLC

165 Belle Forest Cir # A

Nashville Home Energy

PO Box 92253





Nashville Urban Contracting

1308 Old Gratton Rd

New Life Renovations And Building

7006 Zither Lane
La Vergne

Newsom's Heating & Air

593 Kingdom Rd

Norrell Service Experts

7291 Cottage Hill Rd

Northwest Exterminating - Nashville

3185 Franklin Road

On Time Improvements

3184 Ewingdale Dr

One Call Home Team LLC

242 W Main St

Page Const. Co. LLC

2600 Trotwood Ave

Parker's Heating Cooling & Plumbing

107 Threet Industrial Rd



Pro Maintnance Plus

845 Netherlands Dr.

Prodigy Roofing

715 Rogues Fork Rd

Professional Roofers Inc

321 Billingsly Court



Quality Homeworks

3914 East Ridge Drive

R & D Pro Drywall

1027 George Boyd Rd
Ashland City

R.E Construction

713 lake terrace dr

Rapid Restoration, LLC

3610 Kelton Jackson Rd

Reeves Pest Company

4922 Port Royal Rd
Spring Hill

Reliant Home Services

1019 Longhunter Chase Drive
Spring Hill

Republic Roofing & Restoration LLC

91 Peyton Pkwy

Restore, Renew



7103 Tom Jones Ln

Roof Roof Nashville

2250 Southgate Blvd

Roscoe Brown, Inc

410 South Roosevelt St.

Roscoe Brown, Inc.

959 N Thompson Ln



S&G Roofing


Sealtite Roofing & Restoration

2610 Winford Ave

ServiceMaster of Rutherford County

3277 Franklin Rd

Shingle Works of Nashville

PO Box 210268


1550 River Rock Blvd

Smith Construction 66

3125-B Sweethome Rd.

Steve Wilson's Home Repair & Maintenance

161 New Shackle Island Rd.

Sumner Roofing & Exteriors

115 Powell Dr

Tennessee Valley Air

1018 Mallory Ln
Spring Hill

Terminix - Goodlettsville

803 Louisville Hwy

The Wills Company


Thermal Dynamics Weatherization

PO Box 271
Chapel Hill

Tony's Heating and Air

120 North Electra St.

Tru Solutions, LLC

2910 Sidco Drive

Tru Solutions, LLC

2910 Sidco Drive

Universal Solutions

788 Dejarnette Ln

W Builders

891 Lennox Rd


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Whitman's Maintenance & Construction

1009 Summer Ct
White House

Wilson Remodeling & Construction

919 Conference Drive, Ste. 4, 274

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