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A
"Sales guy was helpful and I knew mostly what I wanted and he helped me use my coupons in the best way. Delivery team reminded me and truck was prompt and alerted" me as to drop off. I even had them come back out to level it. One of the sales folks at my 2nd visit was less happy but eventually scheduled the guys to come back out. They don't like to call it "set up", it's a "delivery" for manufacturer warranty purposes, but they did it and the guys that came (2x) were capable and friendly and leveled my washer.
will make sure you're happy in the first 30 days, that was still in my window.

-Jeri W.

A
"Came out and inspected under the house because we were concerned that the unit had damage and was leaking cool air under the house and not functioning correctly." Was very detailed in his inspection under the house. Very happy! No damage, and no work needed.

-David V.

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Angie's Answers

?
Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!
?

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 

 

Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450

 

We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 

 

Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

?
For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.
?

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.

 

?
You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
?
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Hardware Store reviews in Nashville

A

Rating
Well,
Nashville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
is a good company. They fixed my ice maker so I have no complaints with them. I think they do good repairs on things you buy there and they do show up when they tell you they will. I would call myself satisfied with
Nashville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
as far as appliance repairs go.
- EILEEN W.
A

Rating
Very well. I was able to make my selection and get to the cash
Nashville Hardware Stores Provider Name Locked
quickly and check out. I didn't have to spend a lot of time in the store running all over searching for what I wanted. The signage was very clear and helped me get to the aisle I needed to go to.
- Clare T.

Hardware Stores in Nashville

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

ABC PLUMBING SUPPLY & HDWR

2608 MURFREESBORO PIKE
Nashville

ACE HARDWARE

2730 Lebanon Pike # 1
Nashville

ADVANCED SPECIAL TOOLS INC

1913 LONG HUNTER LN
Nashville

Axis Construction Services

P.O. Box 273
Cross Plains

BASSCO INC

1137 4th Ave S
Nashville

BLOOM ELECTRIC SUPPLY

2916 KRAFT DR
Nashville

Brickhouse Security

980 Avenue of the Americas

Bryan's handyman service

231 Bonnafield Dr
Hermitage

C B LUMBER

201 SUGARBERRY CT
Nashville

C&R Services, Inc.

4222 Old Coopertown Rd
Springfield

CDIC CYCLE DOCTOR

548 MOUNT PLEASANT RD
Nashville

CHARLOTTE REALTY

4401 CHICKERING LN
Nashville

Complete Home Hardware

1227 Lakeview Dr STE 6
Franklin

CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS LTD INC

520 Mapleleaf Dr
Nashville

Cox Interior

7108 Crossroads Blvd Ste 320
Brentwood

DAVIS COOKWARE & CUTLERY SHOP

1717 21ST AVE S
Nashville

E FORMS INC

5511 EDMONDSON PIKE
Nashville

E-FORMS INC

6020 WOODLAND HILLS DR
Nashville

EASTSIDE PLUMBING SUPPLIES INC

292 HERMITAGE AVE
Nashville

ELDER BAIN

401 COWAN ST
Nashville

ENDURO SYSTEMS INC

4741 TROUSDALE DR
Nashville

Ferguson Counter

1708 Elm Hill Pike
Nashville

Foley Remodeling

112 Midtown Court
Hendersonville

GARDEN TOOLS

1335 MURFREESBORO PIKE
Nashville

H D SUPPLY

193 POLK AVE
Nashville

Hantel Kitchens & Baths

2914 Berry Hill Dr
Nashville

HART ACE HARDWARE

5304 HARDING PKE
Nashville

HART ACE HARDWARE

8203 HIGHWAY 100
Nashville

HOME DEPOT

224 S ROYAL OAKS BLVD
Franklin

Home Depot

1584 Gallatin Rd
Nashville

HOME DEPOT

1155 BELL RD
Antioch

Home Depot

7665 Hwy 70 S
Nashville

I MI DISPATCH

2531 PARK DR
Nashville

IDEAL ELECTRIC SUPPLY

935 E TRINITY LN
Nashville

IRVING MATERIALS INC

1433 Cowan Ct
Nashville

Jack's Glass Shop

PO Box 11182
Murfreesboro

LE CREUSET

248 OPRY MILLS DR
Nashville

LIDS FOR LESS

391 OPRY MILLS DR
Nashville

LOWE'S

10 E CAMPBELL RD
Madison

LOWES

1825 OLD FORT PKWY
Murfreesboro

LOWES

7034 CHARLOTTE PIKE
Nashville

LOWES

1301 NASHVILLE PIKE
Gallatin

LOWES

3060 MALLORY LN
Franklin

LOWES

5025 OLD HICKORY BLVD
Hermitage

LOWES

410 GENIE LN
Smyrna

LOWES

5520 Nolensville Pike
Nashville

Michael Shaver Plumbing

170 E Morris Dr
Gallatin

MID STATE MOBILE CONCRETE INC

219 CLIFFDALE RD
Nashville

NASHVILLE DISCOUNT BUILDING

1400 51ST AVE N
Nashville

NASHVILLE READY MIX

1436 COWAN CT
Nashville

NASHVILLE READY MIX

5853 RIVER RD
Nashville

NASHVILLE READY MIX INC

605 Cowan St
Nashville

OAKLEY LUMBER

707 42ND AVE N
Nashville

One Stop Hardware Plus

1234 Main St
Nashville

POISE & IVY

5114 MARC CT
Nashville

POWER SERVICE AGENCY

112 McGavock Pike
Nashville

Precision Locksmith Services Inc

307 Fescue Dr
Mount Juliet

RANEY TRUSS

7620 HIGHWAY 70 S
Nashville

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

StainerZ

1111 Karma Lane
Gallatin

STONES RIVER INFUSION CTR

3515 CENTRAL AVE
Nashville

TERRY'S SMALL ENGINE SALES

4124 THOMASVILLE RD
Chapmansboro

THE CONTRACTOR YARD INC

1740 RIVER HILLS DR
Nashville

TOOL-SMITH CO

1854 AIR LANE DR
Nashville

TOWNECRAFT HOME PRODUCTS

404 MBN DR
Nashville

US LUMBER GROUP INC

1000 APEX ST
Nashville

VIKING CULINARY ARTS CTR

230 FRANKLIN RD
Franklin

WORKSHOP TOOLS

387 OPRY MILLS DR
Nashville

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