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"Gentleman who answered the phone to schedule service appt was professional, courteous, thorough and offered to schedule service for same afternoon - first impressions" do matter. (I actually requested next morning service and received it). Service tech arrived on time after calling 30 mins before arrival. Wore uniform clearly identifying him as a Drain Doctor employee at door. Was professional, courteous ,and worked efficiently and thoroughly. Cleared clogged drain out into line(s). Charge was $103 minus 10% discount. This company only does drain work. Another plumbing company (which does not have all far reaching drain lines equipment) recommended . Sure glad they did. The charges for service are lower than most other general plumbers. So glad to know about this company - will definitely call them for any drain issues in the future. You get value for your $.

-KM P.

"Great, the gentlemen was very nice and communicated well. He was a big help and we were very pleased with the service.

-Shannalee M.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.


If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.


Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.


As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.



Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Nashville


It was a Big Deal purchase. I was happy with the service. I was extremely impressed. They did it all in a matter of minutes and they were extremely professional and courteous. The price was extremely reasonable. It was cheaper than I could have gotten anywhere else. It was a wonderful job.
- tom S.

nThe issue was a kitchen sink and washing machine drain that backed up. and his partner tried snaking it out at first, but with no success. They kept at it, however, even going under the house to determine how the lines ran, and how they were connected to each other. Based on that, they were able to determine exactly where the ...More blockage was and got it cleared out. didn't try to up-sell me, just stuck with what he thought the issue was, and cleared up the problem.
- Stacy W.

It was a good service. They did it quickly. I was under a time crunch and they came over late in the day with not much notice. The plumber who came out was fine and he did try to sell me a 1 year warranty though.
- Stephen K.

was great. Determined shower leak was coming from around the door, which we are planning to replace. Went in crawl space and found toilet has been leaking. Also tracked source of the leak. Pulled the toilet, replaced seat, tightened a loose bolt in toilet tank, and re-installed toilet. He also cleaned the drain in master bath ...More shower and the drain in spare bathroom tub/shower. We will definitely use him for future plumbing work!
- Nina Kay C.

was punctual, polite, clean and friendly to my two small dogs. He got right to work. He was efficient and even though he had to go to the hardware store he managed to get all the work done in the two hour time frame. The parts cost was reasonable. I would hire them again!!
- Mary B.

We had a toilet back up into our shower Friday evening and had a technician from ARS come out that evening to help. We knew that we would have to pay an additional charge for the after hours service, but were somewhat taken aback by the plumber telling us that removing the toilet was "an extra $200." Seriously?! Not feeling like we had any ...More other recourse, we agreed to the impromptu added fee and he pulled the toilet. He brought in a gigantic auger, damaging the carpet on our front porch, the doorframe to the bathroom, and leaving permanent on our bathroom tile floor. I had to help steady the machine as it worked, as it was swaying back and forth and knocking into walls. I watched in horror as the machine flung sewage onto our walls and ceiling as it worked. I can't say for certain that it was the fault of the plumber, but I didn't expect that to be a part of the process. The machine he brought was too big to clean the line from inside, so he had to return the next day with a smaller machine. No time was stated, as he said that he had several other jobs the next day. He also left us with a bathtub full of sewage that night, and dumped the contents of his shop vac in there before he left. Annoyingly, he did not call with any advance warning and we were 30 minutes across town when he informed us that he was out front of our door. Fortunately, however, he was able to begin work outside without us, as he had to break through our main drain line in order to auger in from that direction. Ultimately he was able to clear the drain, and he patched our outside line and reseated the toilet. When the bill came, there were a couple brief sentences describing the work performed and then a single (large) number--the total due. No breakdown of labor hours, no additional fees incurred, no tax, etc. It was hard at that point to believe that I was being charged fairly. Bottom line, while the line was ultimately cleared (I think--we discovered today that our washer won't drain and I think there may be an additional blockage elsewhere in our lines...) some of the practices I encountered just didn't sit right with me and I felt like I was being taken for a ride to an extent.
- Aaron B.

showed up the same day I called--a big plus! He looked at the pipe configuration in the crawl space under my house & explained where in the line there was a likely place for a clog to happen.
Then he came into the kitchen. I'd cleared out the space under the sink & told him I saw evidence of a leak there. He ...More said that's typical when there's a backup due to a clog. He replaced the rusty & misshapen undersink trap, roto'd out the pipes, and got the water flowing freely.
was informative & personable & knew his job. I've had work done once before by Drain Doctor and experienced the same positive results. I'm happy with their service & price & would use them again in a heartbeat.
- Simon M.

I was happy that I could schedule service after normal business hours. They have an answering service. Awesome! Second time to use the company. They were fast, prompt, professional. The $66 coupon was a great value.
- Kristina K.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Nashville

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

24/7 Plumbers in Nashville

69 Trimble St

2B'S Handyman services

1406 Highway 166 North
Mount Pleasant

615 Home repair

968 Mountain Valley Drive


121 Commerce Drive


Old Hickory

A1 Brown Plumbing

11952 Lebanon Rd
Mount Juliet


Ashland City

Ace Plumbing Co Inc

3414 Lebanon Rd

Affordable Heat and Air Service

3306 Overhill Ct

After Hours Plumbing

511 3rd Ave. West


1963 Nolensville Pike

All Drains Plus

708 nth main st

Allinder Plumbing

408 Woodland Street

Alpha Absolute LLC

821 General George Patton Rd


5969 Woodbury Pike

Armstrong Remodeling

2817 West End Rd.

Around The Clock Plumbing

4868 Matterhorn Dr
Old Hickory

ARS/Rescue Rooter of Nashville

4071 Powell Ave


PO BOX 340
Whites Creek

Arts Quality Plumbing

108 Mid Town Ct Ste 201


Mount Juliet

Avellino Plumbing

2938 Iroquois Dr
Thompsons Station

B & C Home Improvement

2740 Painted Pony Dr

Bellevue First Plumbing

PO Box 218444

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing

207 Century Ct


1601 Flat Rock Rd

Brentwood Plumbing Co Inc

P.O. Box 3081


PO Box 40326

Bryan's handyman service

231 Bonnafield Dr

Bryan's Plumbing

7123 Sonya Dr

Centennial Plumbing LLC

609 Cayla Ct

Choice Home Warranty

1090 King Georges Post Rd

Cornerstone Home Maintenance

703 Rugby Ct
La Vergne



DDB Services

PO Box 683

Denis Colby

243 Sunrise Ave


2000 denham ave

East Nashville Plumbing

1309 Gartland Ave

Elan', LLC

PO Box 698
Old Hickory

exclusive plumbing service

105 S High Ridge Dr

Felts Plumbing Inc

177 collier lane

First Class Plumbing & HVAC LLC

2176 Loudenslager Dr
Thompsons Station

Fivestar Plumbing Co

1503 Memorial Blvd

Fix It All Plumbing

233 Lookout Dr
Old Hickory

FLO Comfort

1055 Ridgecrest Dr

Fusion Investments Corporation

2206 Dortch Ave


P.O. BOX 17752

Gibb's Remodeling

industrial dr

Goodlettsville Plumbing Co

2203 Preston Run Circle

Green Hills Plumbing

905 East Old Hickory Blvd.

Handyman Hitsquad

1010 Thurman St
Mount Juliet

HandyPros Property Services

113 Plumlee Rd.


PO Box 40329

Hers and His Plumbing

2963 Foster Creighton Dr

High Quality Plumbing

14531 Old Nashville Hwy

Hiland Home Maintenance

2948 High Rigger Dr.

Hiller Plumbing Heating & Cooling

1418 Mark Allen Lane

Hiller Plumbing, Heating, Cooling & Electrical

915 Murfreesboro Pike



Home man

6 Ct

Homes By Heritage

3628 Wareham Dr
Thompsons Station

I Dig It

339 E Due West

Ireton's Home Improvements

111 Waters Edge Ln

Iron Home Consruction

320 Issac Drive

Jackson's Maintenance Service

6304 Robertson Rd


292 Hermitage Avenue


5413 KNOB RD

Kimbro Air

134 Volunteer Dr


1205 Scramblers Knob

Lee Company

331 Mallory Station Rd.

maintenance magic

53 mcmurtry rd

Master Plumbing of Tennessee

710 Hill Ave #12

Maynard Select

617 Norris Avenue

MCH: Plumbing, Electrical and More

401 Center St

Michael's Plumbing Service

201 Thompson Lane

Mid State Plumbing LLC

12 Keith St.

Milan's Plumbing

P.O. Box 36

MJ Frick Co

3651 Trousdale Dr


P O BOX 40901

Music City Builders

2723 Westwood Drive

Music City Properties

6688 Nolensville Rd

Myatt Construction LLC

165 Belle Forest Cir # A

Myers Plumbing Heating Cooling

7346 Charlotte Pike

Nashville's Do It All, LLC

1034 Percy Warner Blvd

Nicholson Home Services


Ochoa Bros.

3013 Ambrose Ave #F


169 Remington Ave

One Home LLC

33 Franklin Rd

P.A.B. Plumbing and Electric

2428 Rychen Dr

Phil's Handiman Service

121 Randy Rd.

Phoenix Claims Consulting

3311 Gulf Breeze Pkwy

Plumbers Nashville

3200 West End Avenue


Whites Creek

Pro Maintnance Plus

845 Netherlands Dr.

Pro N Stall

P.O. Box 621

Pro Plumbing

404 Adams Ave
Mount Pleasant

Property Services LLC

920 W College St

Pure Water Plumbing

919 Conference Dr.

Quality Homeworks

3914 East Ridge Drive




PO BOX 291501

Reliant Home Services

1019 Longhunter Chase Drive
Spring Hill

Republic Plumbing

401 Douglas St

Roscoe Brown, Inc

410 South Roosevelt St.

Roscoe Brown, Inc.

959 N Thompson Ln

Roscoe Brown, Inc.

807 Poplar Ave


106 E 18th St

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

191 River Hills Dr.

Rutherford Plumbing Heating and Cooling

132 Melstone Ct

Scott Dawkins Plumbing Co

2405 Leafhollow path

Simmons maintenance

6121 morrow rd

Smith Contractors

P.O. Box 174

Smith Plumbing & Services

216 Peeler Trail

Smyrna Plumbing

4160 Avalon Pl

Southern Sun Plumbing

1728 Sydney Terrace
Mount Juliet

Springer Fluid Compacting

123 Leak Street

Springer Plumbing

PO Box 70073


1803 Nolensville Rd.

Summit Property Restoration LLC

655 N Main St

Tab Hunter Heating & Cooling

339 B Rockland Rd

The HAPPY Handyman

5940 Colchester Dr

The Service Company

White Bluff

The Surfin Plumbers

5224 17th St Ct E

The Surfin’ Plumbers

339 Rockland Rd

The Water Guys

6074 Creekmont Dr

The Wills Company


Total Home Repair & Renovation

1347 Old Charlotte Pike

Total HVAC and Plumbing

15115 Old Hickory Blvd

Universal Solutions

788 Dejarnette Ln

Vance's Plumbing

6216 Old Hickory Blvd.

Wayne Owens Plumbing

561 Forest Retreat Rd


510 27th Avenue North


La Vergne


810 Edwards Drive

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