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Local Articles in Minneapolis

home remodel in process with drywall, studs and wiring exposed
Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home

Don't sign a remodeling contract until you and the home improvement contractor agree on every term.

kids playing and mother doing laundry in remodeled basement
Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home

Need more space? Basement remodeling is a cost-effective alternative to building an addition.

Angie's List
Drywall, Fencing, Fencing & Driveway Gates, Painting - Exterior, Painting - Interior, Plumbing, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Kitchen & Bathroom, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Roofing

Houston roofing complaint | Contractor claims leaks are coming from plumbing, not roof.

Angie's List
Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Roofing
Homeowner claims property manager hired to oversee roofing work, drywall repair and electrical upgrades allowed contractors to do unsatisfactory and incomplete work.

Angie's Answers

Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 


Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450


We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 


Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.


You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Modular And Mobile Home Remodelers in Minneapolis

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

ABC Supply Co. Inc.

14399 Huntington Ave


150 Eaton St Ste
Saint Paul

Above the Rest Floors and More

2599 Fairview Ave N
Saint Paul

Accessible Homes

1104 5th ave S
South Saint Paul

Al's Check Cashing

1434 93rd Ln NE


27605 LEAH LN
Chisago City

American Eagle Construction LLC

6201 64th Ave N

American Eagles CC

Saint Cloud

Atmosphere Construction Inc

2037 Bluestone Ln
Saint Paul

Aufbauen, LLC

19745 Sweetwater Curve

Becker Building & Remodeling

1901 17th St NW
Saint Paul

Bolt Electrc LLC.

6840 Belle st.

Boondock Builders LLC

321 Main Street S

Boulder Creek Enterprises

66354 362nd St

Brand Company, Inc.

PO Box 546
Prior Lake

Bucky's Handyman Service

385 Nottingham Dr
Circle Pines

C&C General Contracting

9920 Kahler Ave NE

Celtic Business Works LLC.

389 W. Lake St.

Charles Cabinets CO

3090 Cleveland Ave N
Saint Paul

Ck Remodeling & Maintenance

309 Harrison Ave
Saint Paul

Construction Thirty-Three LLC

2921 Greeley Rd

Cornerstone Building and Remodeling, LLC

8646 Eagle Creek Circle

Custom Step Company

3098 162nd Ln NW

D&E Painting and Finishing

807 St Clair Ave
Saint Paul

Darmic Custom Homes

320th Street

David Heide Design Studio

301 4TH AVE S

DGS Contracting, LLC

5833 Irving Ave S

Diamond Cut Homes, Inc

4208 83rd Ave N
Brooklyn Park

DJ White Construction, LLC

3815 337th Avenue NW

DunRite Craftsmen

1020 e 146th st, Suite 240

Ed's Exteriors LLC

8120 154th Lane NW

Elite Construction Mn

14151 Willow Dr

Enviro Tek Minneapolis

1425 Lasalle Avenue

Erica Olson Designs, LLC

7404 Cahill Road

Fair & Square Remodeling LLC

5775 Wayzata Blvd


2108 10TH ST E

Father & Son Handyman Home Services

2614 Dupont Ave. N

First Impression Remodeling Inc.

4005 Hollyhock Circle North
Brooklyn Park

FirstHand Construction

14655 sycamore st nw

Flint Brands

8362 Tamarack Village

Friemann Companies, Inc.

7555 Cloman Way E
Inver Grove Heights

General Service Contracting

PO Box 891
Saint Joseph

Gordon James Construction

5159 US Hwy 12
Maple Plain

Great Northern Resources

3230 Gorham Ave

GreenLight Builders LLC

1313 broadway st ne

Handy Home Repair

9020 Pillsbury Ave. S.

HandyQuick MN LLC

1800 Wooddale Drive

Hanson Home Remodeling

10501 E Bloomington fwy


1301 Woodhill Rd

Heinen Contracting Inc

10100 Hillside Ln W

Home Distinction Inc

2815 Lake Blvd
North Saint Paul


1544 134th Ave. NE

HoneyLove Architecture & Gardening

PO Box 62111

J Wass Construction LLC

317 N Armstrong

JC Construction & Design Inc

208 4th St SW
New Prague

Jeremiah Stevens Construction LLC

112 12th ave nw
Saint Paul

JJH Homes

529 glendale street
Saint Paul

Josh Zuehlke - Coldwell Banker Burnet

3033 Excelsior Blvd

JTM Construction

18321 Cedar Dr NW

Keypoint Appraisal Company

8519 Vickors Lane

King Contractors LLC

1426 Roosevelt ST

Kitchens, Bathrooms & Basements Inc.

855 19th St SE
Forest Lake

Knutson Custom Remodelers

4745 Vincent Ave South


6755 Woodhill Trl
Eden Prairie

KTK Construction Inc

9120 Isanti St NE

Lakeland Building Services

728 Southcross Dr. W.

Lakeland Electric, Inc.

1312 McKay Dr NE
Ham Lake

Legacy Contracting

32015 128th St NW


1634 W Eldridge ave #6

MAKE Studios

2218 Harriet Ave Apt 304

Marshall Electric Company Inc.

9590 Jamaca Ave N
White Bear Lake

Master Mobile Home Service

1486 Cloud Dr NE

Maxx Construction LLC

5120 Woodlawn Blvd

Metro Area Builders llc

PO Box 112

Michael's LLC.

732 8th ave. NW

Mike Mohs Construction

3414 Snelling Ave

MNS Construction

15602 Wake St NE

Mo's Construction and Remodeling, LLC

12606 293rd Ave.

MOBAC Construction, LLC

3024 15th Ave S





My Odd Job Handyman

10248 Colorado Rd

NERO Construction LLC

3584 abercrombie ln

North Metro Builders Inc

151 91st Lane NE

Northrup Inc

4400 Nicollet Ave S

Odor Medic

27635 Island View Rd.

Ohana Construction Inc

13482 Georgia Ct
Apple Valley

Paul's Paint Service

700 Lake Placid Blvd

Plumbing Specialist LLC

14017 Quince St. NW

Precision tile&granite LLC

1055 Goebel st



Red Head Rehabs

12004 Hatteras St

Remodel Card

2575 Fairview Ave N
Saint Paul

Ritz Renovations

PO Box 241448
Saint Paul



Robert Dana Design

9900 13th Avenue N STE 100

Rock Creek Builders Inc

15861 101st Street SE

Rockstar Design


Senior Home Renovations

213 Primrose Ln.
Cannon Falls

Smith's Services

1560 Willis Ave
South St. Paul

Solid Foundation Construction Inc.

4326 7th St NE

SpaceMakers Remodeling

3006 Leyland View

Stellar Home Maintenance

128 star circle
Saint Paul

Tekton Builders LLC

243 Trillium Lane

Tilford Contracting

6530 Balsam LN N
Maple Grove

Timberstone Custom Remodeling LLC

12921 130th Street Ct

Titus Contracting

8208 West 125th St.

Top-Knotch Construction & Remodeling

Pauls Lake rd NE

Total Home Concepts

3446 Snelling Ave South

Unique Granite LLC

7308 aspen ln n

Viking Roofing & Remodeling L.L.C.

388 9th Ave West
Saint Paul Park



Wagner Construction

11562 272 Ave N

Walker's Granite Countertops

1605 Highway 55 East

Your Handyman


Zanecraft Homes Inc.

23347 Jonquil St. NW
Saint Francis

ZeeCo Construction

Sauk Rapids

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