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"I called a few companies to compare estimates for basement mold . was the most responsive. Upon seeing our issue," he explained that he would be happy to provide the service, but that it would not be too difficult for us to fix ourselves. He provided detailed, step-by-step instruction for us to the mold and save the $700 it would cost to have a company do it. I thoroughly appreciated his honesty and integrity, as well as the mold 101 education -- he is extremely knowledgeable and skilled at conveying the most important information to a layperson like me. We will take the DIY approach for this project, and hopefully never have a mold situation requiring his service again, but if we do, would be my first call.

-Maureen R.

"Got their bid very fast, made an appointment because listed with Angies List. came on time, went right to work. Looks great. Cleaned up beautifully.

-Marianne M.

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Local Articles in Minneapolis

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Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Minneapolis


It went really well. It took a long time for the walls to dry, but they must have been wet for a long time, maybe even years. I was really impressed with 's professionalism and industry. He's a go- and knows how to get things done. He found the problems, fixed the problems, cleaned up expertly ...More after himself, and communicated very well with me at every step. It was a pleasure to work with and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend him to anyone.
- Bernadette S.

After reviewing the report, I've decided to tackle it over the winter and anticipate no problem. He encouraged me to call him with any questions as I get into it.
- Darrell B.

is EXTREMELY knowledgeable about everything about a home/building. He was the only one I called for all my contractors that investigated and found the source of my water intrusion. He was able to take mold samples, take pictures etc. Because of him, my home insurance finally beleived there was a problem and paid for remediation. ...More does not do remediation but he inspected the company who did it. is picky and wants things done right. He is the right guy to make sure the job is done right. 's company also did my home inspection upon purchasing a new house. They are SO detail oriented and meticulous. He saved me from buying a really bad house. If you need a true inspection of your home done or have water damage issues you want answers to, is your guy. Very, very knowledgeable.
- Linda D.

arrived on time in pouring rain. He was patient with all my questions and gave me time to take a bunch of notes.
I know practically nothing about home maintenance, so when took the time to explain things to me about sheetrock and moisture indicators and all of that I really appreciated it. Who ...More does that anymore? My parents owned their own business and he reminded me of them in his honest approach to business and customers. Smart and nice guy. Really knows his field. I can see why his Company is rated so high on Angie's list.

- Edith S.

called me back and listened to my description of the problem in the basement. He felt the problem was able to be addressed without professional services so he advised me on ways I could handle the issue myself and what steps to take. I appreciated the time.
- Jennifer W.

was very responsive. Returned voicemail quickly and found room in her schedule to accommodate our time frame. My daughter had been threatened with failing to pass housing inspection because of the dirt problem which really was a mold growing in carpet from water leakage around the windows. My daughter is somewhat challenged ...More and was able to understand the process and results. She took her time to explain each step and have a conversation. 's report gave more credibility to my daughter's complaints and legal aid and housing authority to take her seriously. Because of timing, got us the report when we needed it. Professional and friendly.

and were great to work with. was very helpful with explaining what they would do and provided two quotes depending on the scenario that unfolded once it became clear what areas were affected by mold. did the work within the estimated time (1 day). ...More and were able to address our concerns about using products that might produce toxic air quality throughout the process. Both and were helpful with tips to prevent future moisture issues.

- Jeff B.

's workers, and , came to the house on time and set out to do their work in a most professional way. They made sure all surfaces up to the attic were protected (i.e. carpeting), and then went about scrubbing and sanitizing prevasive mold contamination all over the attic of ...More this 100 year old home. After the cleaning part of the project was complete, and came the next day to coat the surfaces by applying both a primer coat and a final coat of a mold inhibiting paint. The attic now looks better in all probability than it did when the house was brand new!
The clean up was perfect. And all along in the two day course of this project, we felt that and were conscientious and professional, as well as cordial and trustworthy. Thus, the three people we met from this firm, , and , are all very fine, knowledgable gentlemen - a pleasure to have around and work with.
- John U.

Mold Removal Experts in Minneapolis

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

5 Star Field Services LLC

325 Cedar Street Suite 324
Saint Paul

A & A Property Restoration LLC

7130 Park View Lane
Eden Prairie

A Fresh Look Inc

6024 Nicollet Ave

Aavalon Services Inc

855 SW 3rd St
Saint Paul

Abelard Restoration

8557 Wyoming Ave N, Suite 4

Acuity Consulting and Engineering

7801 Park Dr

Adam Mills LLC

31783 Elmwood Trail

Advanced Roof Technologies, LLC

2720 Maplewood Drive

AdvantaClean of Bloomington

7900 International Drive Ste 300

AdvantaClean of the Twin Cities

642 Hillary Farm Road


Saint Paul

All Around

701 Decatur Ave. N

Allied Restoration

1201 Yale Place

AMEK Custom Builders

9340 James Ave S

American Home Improvement Products LLC.

4931 144TH ST W
Apple Valley

American Restores Group

8175 Parell Ave

American Water Damage

1230 Eagan Industrial Road

Americraft Contracting LLC

309 9th Avenue NE

Arko Restoration

1840 183rd Ave NE

Best Plaster & Drywall

5209 Lincoln St NE


20306 151st St NW
Elk River

Boulder Creek Enterprises

66354 362nd St

Brand Company, Inc.

PO Box 546
Prior Lake

Brian Kelley Remodeling

4417 Garfield Ave S


10900 60TH ST N

Capital City Construction & Remediation

3432 Denmark Ave
Saint Paul


3632 44th Avenue S

Clean Response

480 N Prior Ave
Saint Paul


Saint Paul

Cool Contractors Network

16287 Ipava Avenue


13055 Riverdale Dr NW
Coon Rapids

Disaster Cleanup Services

3075 Spruce St.
Little Canada

DND Carpet & Upholstery Cleaning

7227 Cedar Lake Rd

DND Carpet & Upholstery Cleaning

1566 Woodlane Dr
Saint Paul

DND Carpet & Upholstery Cleaning

15230 Cedar Ave
Saint Paul

DND carpet & Upholstery Cleaning

15533 34th Ave N

DND carpet & Upholstery Cleaning

744 Selby Ave
Saint Paul

DND Carpet Cleaning

510 S Holcombe St

Done Rite Remodeling, Inc.

2707 - 103rd Court NE

Dry Air Restoration

1609 Windsor Dr S



DunRight Remodeling

56 33rd Ave South
St Cloud

Emergency Mitigation Technicians Inc

24320 108th ST NW

Enviro Tek Minneapolis

1425 Lasalle Avenue


3301 E 26TH ST

Environmental Health Science, Inc.

12080 Lakamaga Trail
Marine On St. Croix


2201 107th Ln NE

Gene's of Apple Valley Construction

17660 Kettering Trl


22851 JARVIS ST. NW.
Elk River

GNR Construction Inc

2440 E 117th St

Grandemoore Carpentry Inc.

222 Monroe St.

Green Clean

7229 University Ave

HandyQuick MN LLC

1800 Wooddale Drive

Home Inspection All Star Minneapolis

1516 Lake St. W

Home Safety Solutions Inc

17092 Barium St NW

In Sight Construction

545 Tuttle Dr


4617 Del Dr N

Integrity Restoration

6360 Sunfish Lake Ct NW

Intelligent Design Corp

10550 County Rd 81

J. Benson Construction

3230 Gorham Ave

Jensen & Jensen Construction LLP

2443 115th Ave NW
Coon Rapids

Jeremiah Stevens Construction LLC

112 12th ave nw
Saint Paul

Jeremy Campbell Painting

206 Lowell Ln

JSimoson Renovations LLC

3816 Wooddale Ave S


PO BOX 270851
Saint Paul


12767 Meadowvale Rd NW
Elk River

Kraus Stucco, Inc.

2707-103rd Court NE

Lakeland Building Services

728 Southcross Dr. W.


400 Jackson Street
Elk River

Legend Technical Services Inc

88 Empire Dr
Saint Paul

Lemke & Sons LLC

1246 W 7th St
St Paul


9621 10TH AVE N


Saint Cloud

Loyear Disaster Restoration Services LLC

6443 Cecilia Cir

Lulicon Inc

1627 Willis Ave
South Saint Paul

Master 1 Exteriors

25741 187th St NW
Big Lake

Medina Inc

6000 Bass Lake Rd

Milltown Construction, Inc.

7038 125th St E

Minneapolis Air Duct Cleaning

3901 Heritage Hills Dr

Minnesota Building Inspections

2485 Canabury Dr
Little Canada

Minnesota Mold Inspection LLC

6360 Warren Way
Maple Plain

Mn Reo Solutions LLC

1666 132nd Ste 101

Mn Reo Solutions LLC

PO Box 48335

Mo's Construction and Remodeling, LLC

12606 293rd Ave.



Mold Inspection & Testing Minneapolis MN

7326 Taylor St. NE


6973 Washington Ave S


2501 Mayes Road

Noble Construction Co

33320 Pioneer Ave
Center City


5344 10th Ave S

Northland Stucco

7760 France Avenue South

Odor Medic

27635 Island View Rd.

One Man Handy LLC


Oxi Fresh of Minneapolis Carpet Cleaning

706 1st Street North

Paul Davis Emergency Services

PO Box 938
Prior Lake

Paul Davis Restoration

2809 110th NE Ave

Perfection Plus Cleaning

9855 W 78th St
Eden Prairie

Pillar to Post

3500 Vicksburg Lane N

Precision Contracting

8351 Lake Dr
Circle Pines

Property & Building Service's Inc.

926 Evergreen Ct
Vadnais Heights


Brooklyn Park

PuroClean Property Restoration

6275 Empire Ln N
Maple Grove

Quantum Restoration

7542 Washington Ave
Eden Prairie



R Pro Home Inspections

3165 Kagen Ave. NE
St. Michael

Rapid Restoration, LLC

1901 Oakcrest Ave

Rasmussen Cleaning Service

8401 73rd Ave N,
Brooklyn Park

RES-COMM Home Inspections

5407 Irving Ave N


7632 Executive Drive
Eden Prairie


Saint Paul


6421 Goodrich Ave

Scent From Above, LLC

1137 Cuylle Ct

Seorum Construction & Inspection Services

11245 Xavier circle


3640 35TH AVE S

SERVPRO of Brooklyn Park/Champlin

8475 Xerxes Ave N

SERVPRO of Cottage Grove/Woodbury

350 9th Ave
Saint Paul Park

SERVPRO of Northwest Ramsey County

2355 Highway 36 West Suite 400

Sharpe Construction LLC

6644 90th St S
Cottage Grove

Signature Renovations and Remodeling

23200 Manning Trl N

Skyhawk Companies LLC

12441 Nicollet Ave South

Spartan, Inc.

2650 2nd Ave
North Saint Paul

Steamatic of the Twin Cities

666 Transfer Rd
Saint Paul

Stellar Home Maintenance

128 star circle
Saint Paul


103 Orlin Ave SE

Structure Tech Home Inspections

4205 Raleigh Ave S

Summit Interior Care And Restoration

1803 Buerkle Rd
Saint Paul


105 W 23RD ST

Sunset Construction Group Inc

5101 Hwy 55

Superior Building Services LLC

24785 Esquire blvd
Forest Lake



Thunder Restoration

8175 Parell ave

Tilford Contracting

6530 Balsam LN N
Maple Grove

TK Renovations LLC

11757 Red Fox Dr
Maple Grove

Top Dog Cleaning Crew

1306 129th Ave NW
Coon Rapids

Top-Knotch Construction & Remodeling

Pauls Lake rd NE

Total Restore

105 n oak st

Total Service Company

8475 Xerxes Ave N
Brooklyn Park

TR Environmental Consulting LLC

17800 Swallow CR NW


1077 Van Buren St S

Twin Construction, LLC

11512 306th Avenue

Ulmer Construction LLC

1633 County Highway 10

US Catastrophe Inc

3415 48th Ave N
Brooklyn Center


2701 Delaware St SE Apt 1

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive



Xtreme Painting

4330 Old White Bear Ave
Saint Paul

Yares Services

18617 Lakeview Point Dr NE
East Bethel

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