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"Good! He was very helpful, and gave me lots of helpful information about how to use my lawnmower better. Now it runs better than ever. really" gave me service above and beyond what I paid for.

-Karen B.

"Small shop, retired indl, also a U Haul rental shop. Super nice guy, quick turn around time.

-John A.

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Local Articles in Minneapolis

lawn mower

Lawn Mower Repair and Maintenance

The average suburban lawn mower is a true workhorse, but you might not be maintaining it as well as you should. Here are some practical tips on troubleshooting common problems, how to make some lawn mower repairs yourself and how to maintain your mower so it keeps performing well year after year.

push lawnmower

Keep your push mower, riding mower, reel mower, weed trimmer or edger maintained and clean with these tips.

one-story home on a hill with green lawn

Here's how to jump start your spring lawn and landscape projects.

Lukas has had to recruit family and friends to help with the yardwork portion of his business. (Photo by Sandy Moreland)

Lukas Moreland started his lawn care and lawn mower maintence business when he was just 14. Find out what motivates him to keep the business going.

lawn mower cutting grass

Having trouble starting your lawn mower? Angie Hicks explains why it's a bad idea to leave old fuel in your lawn mower for an extended period of time.

Angie's Answers


The only time a carburator needs replacing is if you put some really corrosive cleaner in it that ate through the metal (usually aluminum), or if you have physically broken it.

Otherwise, carbs can be rebuilt - rebuild kits (that contain basically all the non-metallic parts, the primer bulb (usually) and carb gaskets) typically run $10-25. A tuneup (carb rebuild and new spark plug) with parts typically runs about $60-80 ($100-150 for rider mowers), although a lot of repair shops have $45-60 spring specials. Probably needs a sharpening too - another $10-15 or so when done as part of a tune-up.

By hiring someone to do it, I presume you mean taking it to a small engine repair shop with a good word of mouth reputation, and being sure to get a dropoff receipt and estimate in writing that you carry away with you.

If it runs at all, or ran last fall, this is probably all you need.

Compare this to the cost of a new mower - for a rider mower, no comparison of course - go with the carb cleaning and rebuild. However, for a standard 20-22 inch push power mower, replacement cost is about $140-250, depending on whether you go with a Walmart special or brand name, additional $100 or so if self-propelled or bagging type.

For a 10 year old push type power mower, if it sits outside all winter or is pretty rusty, since you are not mechanically inclined I would recommend getting a new mower - something like a Sears or Murray Ohio (at Target, WalMart, etc) plain-jane mower for about $150-180 unless you have steep hills or medical issues, then get the self-propelled model. A 20 inch or even 18 inch will do fine for a small lawn; if you have several lawns or a pretty big lawn area (over say 2500 SF) then you probably want a 22 inch - the extra path width makes quite a difference in how long it takes to mow.

If it sleeps in a shed or garage and is not rusting out, I would recommend a new one if the plain jane will do it for you, otherwise if the replacement one that you would buy is over about $250 I would go with the carb overhaul and tuneup.

I would STRONGLY recommend you get a 4 cycle engine - I swear by Briggs and Stratton rather than Tecumseh or other brands. 4 cycles start much easier and are less sensitive to fuel/air mix issues, and the plugs stay clean a lot longer. 2 cycles are lighter for the same horsepower which is why you see them a lot in outboard motors that are less than about 50-80 HP and in small generators and motorcycles, but they are a lot more tempermental about starting, especially in cold weather or after a long storage.

If you pay attention to proper winter storage procedure, rebuilding the carb on the old one should last you another 5+ years. I have a Murray Ohio with 4 cycle Briggs and Stratton engine that is 33 years old, lives in an unheated shed in a northern state, and has had nothing more than annual blade sharpening, oil change every few years, and one carb overhaul and plug cleaning (and ZERO new spark plugs) in its life, and starts by second pull every spring. The key is if you store it inside in a garage to run it dry each fall (so you do not have gas in the garage, for safety reasons in case it leaks out); if you leave it outside I fill the tank to the top so moisture cannot acccumulate from moist air "breathing" in and out of the tank due to temperature changes. I do this with mower, chain saw, leaf blower, weed wacker - all start on first or second pull in the spring (and throughout the summer). If you live in an area with a lot of moisture in the winter air (ours is very dry) you might have to add Heet or Sta-Bil to the fuel can (per instructions) before topping off tank.

You will find other people who say you HAVE to run it dry each season. Their theory is that if there is no gas in it then there is no gas to collect moisture or to evaporate and turn to varnish over the winter (though that generally takes a few years of sitting to happen). My theory is if it is filled with fuel it cannot dry out and leave varnish residue to block the fuel tube screen and fuel jets, plus it does not rust metal fuel tanks by being empty. To each their own procedure.


No personal experience on rider mowers but some with small rider tractors, but since you have gotten no response in 5 days, here is my 2 cents worth:


1) read the Consumer Reports and JD Powers reviews on rider mowers


2) from what neighbors have told me, TroyBilt are maintenance problem and not built very rugged, Sears tend to have transmission/drive train problems, those with John Deere say they were unhappy with the price but they run well and don't have extreme maintenance costs - so sounds to me like JD is best brand out there right now.


3) A recommendation also from personal small engine experience and neighbors - stay with Briggs and Stratton 4 cycle engines if possible, and stay away from 2 cycle engines - they are lighter and cheaper, but have a LOT more starting problems and tend to not last as long.

With you not saying what this is on - could be portable device or very small rider mower - check oill level - some fancier ones on air compressors and pressure washers and rider mowers have oil monitor that shuts it off if oil pressure does not build up. Failed governor spring (rare - would be one of my last guesses) can do this, but when I had it happen the engine ran up to speed and died in only a second or two - not 8 seconds. Governor linkage usually an external metal rod with springs connecting to the carb - try watching it during the 8 seconds to see if it is yanking the throttle/choke setting back causing it to shut down. Also check to be sure not blocked by twig or leaves or such. I would check the plug after it dies - if wet then you are pretty sure you are getting fuel, if dry then maybe it is only getting fuel from manual priming or automatic choke, but then the choke is cutting out and starving the engine for fuel. IF your model has accessible automatic choke linkage (or if choke plate is accessible if you remove air cleaner), try using a long tool (not fingers, in case of backfire through carb) to adjust choke angle to see if that will make it keep running - if you can see it after taking off air cleaner, it should be staying full on for probably 20-40 seconds before it opens up wide open if temperature contr4olled type, but the engine-speed type open up as soon as engine comes up to speed. Another possibility - check air cleaner to be sure not plugged with dirt - wash (and with many models oil) per owners manual instructions. Another common problem - starts on priming or choke, but when on regular fuel flow leans out and dies due to air leak in fuel line letting air in with fuel, or dirty screen in tank not letting enough fuel in to keep it running. Also, crudded up holes in the tank cap can cause vapor lock by not letting air in to tank to replace fuel consumed - remove and take out inner liner and check holes in liner and metal cap are open so you can see daylight through them. Another possibility - look for debris, etc keeping throttle from opening up - could be idle screw jiggled loose and is set too low. Try screwing it in a half turn or so to see if keeps running - because might be starting on choke but then when choke starts opening up the idle setting is too low so throttle is not open enough to keep it running. If consistently runs 8 seconds and dies, try turning the main needle valve 1/4 turn one way, then if tht does not work back the 1/4 turn plus 1/4 turn the other way (keep track of turns so you know where initial setting is) - if one or other makes better than adjust in that range for smooth running and no flooding or leaning out when you open throttle up.
Hi Maurice,
This is Sarah B. in Member Care. Thanks for your interest in Angie's List!
We'll be happy to help find top rated Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair providers, but it doesn't look like you have a subscription to the List yet. You can join by visiting www.angieslist.com or by giving us a call. Our call center is available 8:00 am-9:00 pm weekdays and 8:00-5:00 pm ET on Saturdays. If you join online, you can save 20% on an annual plan by using the promo code ANSWERS.
Thanks for your question and we look forward to assisting you, Maurice!

Since it would not start BEFORE you took it in for service, hard to blame them - even if rainfall did get in it, because they would assume when you delivered it that it was in "normal" condition, whjich presumably meant vaent closed. By "vent" on top of the gas tank I am not sure what you mean - a "vent" should not let a lot of water in, but if you mean the filler cap then certainly you would get about as much water depth in the tank as the number of inches of rain you had while it was sitting out.


Another possibility - vent was open during your fall washing down, and wash water got into the tank, which then ended up in the gas can for the winter, then back to the mower in the spring.


Other possibility - your gas can picked up a lot of water over the winter, particuylarly if metal and stored in a location where it could warm up during the day (evaporates gas) then as it cools overnight forms a partial vacuum so it pulls in moist air, which then condenses in the can and settles to the bottom. If using normal pour spout, the first thing out of the can in the spring would be the water (would be first into spout as you pour out), so water from the can might have gone into the mower at first filling.


Another possibility which is amazingly common - little Johnny decides to fuel the mower for you and poured water or bug juice or such in there.


BTW - most fuel stabilizers do NOT trap water - fuel stabilizer put a very thin layear on top of the liquid to retart evaporation, so your gaoline does not turn to diesel or sludge. To trap water and keep it from settling out you need alcohol - like Heet. Also, when draining tank, you should drain the first part into a clear containear (mayonnaise jar or such) then after it has settled a few seconds pour back to the can, leaving the water in the bottom of the jar to be disposed of.

Hi Kyle,
This is Sarah B. in Member Care. Thanks for posting!
I was able to find several rated providers to help you. For your current need though, our Snapfix specialists would also be able to do all of the dialing for you, match you up with a top rated company and arrange to have them call you to figure out the logistics. If this sounds like something you would be interested in, please fill out the form in the link below and our Snapfix Team will take it from there!
If you would like to reach out to these providers yourself, please let me know. I’d be happy to send these to you.  No matter which option you choose, I hope you’ll take the time to fill out a review when the work is done.
If you would like information on providers through this forum, please let us know. You can respond to this thread or submit a new Answers post. You can also reach us at memberservices@angieslist.com . We're happy to help, Kyle!

Lawn Mower Repair reviews in Minneapolis


The service provider didn't do anything. I dropped off a snowblower for repair on Friday, November 21st, 2014, paid the $40 deposit/estimate charge. I was told that the turn-around time was about 3 weeks, and I requested to be called with the estimate before they proceeded with the repair. Four weeks passed. I didn't hear anything, so I ...More stopped into the shop on Friday December 19th to check on status. I found the snowblower sitting back in a corner of the shop, with the repair tag number on the handle, untouched. They never entered the repair request into their system. I picked up my snowblower as is, and took it elsewhere. To their credit, they did issue me a refund of the $40 deposit without a hassle, but offered no explanation or apologies for the mishap.
- Mark C.

Our gas mower was chuffing and losing power. diagnosed a probable cause immediately upon pick-up: we used gas containing ehtanol. During the repair, also discovered warping in the pump mechanism that allowed air to escape and to cause uneven performance. replaced the pump mechanism, ...More gave advice on where to find proper gas, sharpened the blades, etc. It came back like new in 5 days. was pleasant to deal with, informative, timely, and affordable. The icing on the cake was the free pick-up and delivery. I would recommend to anybody needing lawnmower repair or maintenance.
- Kristina C.

This will be my last experience with that horrible establishment. The front desk staff talks a big game about knowing their stuff when they are selling you a service, but when an entire month goes by waiting to hear back from the shop, and the total comes out to 3 TIMES what the front desk person quoted, I realized they effectively stole my $40 deposit. ...More No way can they say that removing the 3 or 4 screws it took to remove the plastic cover from the snow blower and casting their gaze upon the external working parts for a whole month is worth $40.
When I confronted the front desk staff that had originally quoted me "under $200" for the listed repairs needed, they replied with "I'm not a mechanic" in one breath, then proceeded to make claims about their mechanical understanding of the problems with my machine and what I had originally brought it in for that were COMPLETELY wrong. Blatant salesmanship of the lowest lying form. I wouldn't take anything there if I were paid to.
This makes me sad because I always prefer to spend my money at the local small businesses, but this one is rotten. There are many other small engine shops in the area worth checking out. Stay away from this one unless you don't mind being robbed.
- Corey T.

This was the first time we used this service. went beyond our expectations. When they arrived, I mentioned that I could no longer shift into the higher gears because some small pieces of plastic had broken off the gearshift surround and that I was thinking of inserting some small screws in the plastic to fix the problem. After ...More they left, I discovered they had done this for me at no additional charge. Now that's excellent service. We highly recommend them and will definitely use them again!
- Rob C.

I had a quite old mower that was in need of a tuneup. We installed some sod in our yard and I wanted get have the mower running in top shape to keep our new grass looking great. They were upfront and honest about what it would cost to sharpen the blade, change out the oil, clean the gasline and carbr. I decided to buy a new mower ...More from them since there was a rebate going on and I have been very happy with my purchase.
- matt M.

I feel secure with their work but the price seemed high for repair and tune-up. We played phone tag trying to work out when the machine was completed. It all worked out in the end.
- Lois M.

came - same day - to pick up my snow blower. He showed me on-the-spot what the problem was. He had to order the part, which took some time, but fixed the blower as soon as it came. I have used his services several times for fixes and tune-ups on my mower and blower. Every time, he picked up same-day and did the job in a very ...More short period of time - sometimes returned it next-day! is reliable, honest, and keeps his prices low. He's great at explaining what is wrong with the equipment, and gives advice on how to maintain it. I won't use any other service! I HIGHLY RECOMMEND !
- Dawn H.

is a treasure. He picked up the snow blower, repaired it and returned it within a week . I can't tell you how much I appreciated the pickup and delivery as I don't have a vehicle that can haul the monster I am now ready for the snow we all know is coming.
Thanks !!!
- Mary H.

Lawn Mower Repair Shops in Minneapolis

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!



Al's Check Cashing

1434 93rd Ln NE


34234 fv
South Saint Paul

A–Z Rental

12450 Plaza Dr
Eden Prairie


1823 Old Hwy 8
Saint Paul

Bob Steman

6517 45th Ave N



bri's handyman service

510 55th Ave N

Bucky's Handyman Service

385 Nottingham Dr
Circle Pines


8565 HIGHWAY 65 NE


2621 7TH AVE E
Saint Paul


3804 CEDAR AVE. S.

Central Small Engine & Marine

3190 Hwy 25 NE

D Rock Center

175 Old Hwy 8 SW
New Brighton



Elevate Construction Inc

1000 S Fairfield Drive


344 Taft St NE


1209 Tyler St NE

Glen Ruds Small Engine Repair

7127 3rd Ave S



Gregie's Small Engine Repair & Welding

472 S Griggs St
Saint Paul

Hamline Hardware Hank & Rental

755 N. Snelling Ave.
Saint Paul



Innovative Irrigation Specialists

1756 149th Ln NE
Ham Lake




2326 Louisiana Ave S


5115 Vernon Ave So

Jerry's Home & Garden Center

4381 Nichols Rd
Saint Paul

Joe's Lawn & Snow

6407 penn ave

Johnson Hardware

7936 Portland Ave S


1490farrington street
Saint Paul

Lamb's Lawn Care


M&M Express Sales and Service

600 Highway 55 East

M-1 maintenance

8039 harkness road south


Saint Paul

Midway Service & Repair

12603 83rd Ave


1137 73RD AVE NE








7857 HIGHWAY 65 NE

NorthStar Maintenance Solutions, LLC

9391 Partridge Rd
Saint Bonifacius

Old Time Auto

8820 Excelsior Blvd

Orange Rock Services L.L.C

959 Charlton street
West Saint Paul

Painters Gear

9325 Bryant Ave S

Phillips Landscaping Design

8349 Russel Avenue

Precision Small Engine Repair

31 6th Ave S

R & R Small Engine Service

4224 E 41st St

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

Rick's Small Engine Repair

5802 Boone Ave N


3617 E LAKE ST

Robbinsdale Marine

4137 Lakeland Ave

Scott's Small Engine Repair

5630 314th St.

Stillwater Turf And Power

1778 Greeley Street


PO Box 201007

Tekton Builders LLC

243 Trillium Lane

The Hover Shop

20028 172nd St. NW
Big Lake

The Toro Co

8111 Lyndale Ave S


801 State Highway 284

WBL Home Improvement

4550 Evergreen Dr

White Bear Rentals & Sales

3865 HWY 61
Saint Paul

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