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A
"He specializes in just consulting. He did a good job of the engineering consulting I had him do. I used him to give me an estimate on what it was actually going" to cost to repair something instead of trusting somebody who would have just come and done the walls. I would rather get somebody that knows if anything needs to be repaired, and if so, what actually needs to be repaired. It was a good investment because I did not need any other company to come and do the job after the consultation. He seems honest. I would recommend him to others and would use him again in the future if necessary.

-Keith C.

A
"We called
on a Monday and they came out the following Friday. The engineer looked at the foundation and took many measurements. He told" us that we should have some foundation piers installed, and gave a detailed estimate on what he thought the job should cost. He was very thorough and took the time to describe what we should have done. I would use
again

-Mark T.

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Local Articles in Milwaukee

Have a foundation crack? Consult a structural engineer

Are you worried about a crack in your home's foundation. A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

Structural Engineers

Your home's ability to withstand the forces of nature and gravity depend on good structural engineering. Building room additions, correcting foundations and repairing structural damage are all projects that call for a structural engineer's expertise.

Wet basement floor with mold
Structural Engineering, Basement Waterproofing

A structural engineer explains why to hire an engineer and draft a plan before repairing a wet basement or crawl space.

Interior remodeling project, in progress.
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Dear Angie: How much should it cost to remove a wall? We want to take out about 9.5 feet of a wall that runs from an exterior wall of the house to an interior wall. – Jenny H., Tampa, Florida

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earthquake retrofit
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Earthquakes can strike out of nowhere and cause major damage to your home. Consider these tips to protect your home from earthquake damage.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

There is NO such thing as an average cost !

 

You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .

 

 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .

 

The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.

 

 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !

?

Hi, this is Meranda with Angie's List.

 

You can log in at www.angieslist.com and search for "structural engineer" to find someone in your area who can independently assess the situation. They should be able to determine if this is a serious problem or a cosmetic problem, and if it's an issue make a recommendation/plan to fix it.

 

While your mileage may vary, I had a similar situation in my own home this spring. We noticed several new drywall cracks that appeared to be developinfg or growing around our 20-year-old home. We hired a structural engineer — $300 for an assessment — and he concluded the home was structurally sound, and the cracks likely were just settling and seemed to appear one after another because the crazy weather and humidity changes over the winter. It was worth that price to sleep better at night not worried my home was falling down. He recommended we find a drywall guy to fix it — way cheaper than the scenarios I'd been imagining in my head.

 

If you need help finding someone, you can also always email or call in a request for our member services team at memberservices@angieslist.com or 1-888-944-5478 on weekdays from 8:30 a.m. to 8:15 p.m. and Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Eastern time.

 

Good luck!

?

Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.

 


 
 
Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
 
 
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
 
 
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
?
Here is a link to a recent diagnosis exercise I just went through on another similar question - might be of some interest to you, though that case is likely duct related whereas your I think may be outside - http://answers.angieslist.com/What-causing-loud-banging-clicking-noise-q141018.aspx In your case however, and especially with the only on very cold night issue and especially more early in winter, my first, second and probably third guess would be the deck. Baseboard heating pipes commonly creak, pop, and sometimes squeek as they expand and contract, but unless the pipes are jamming up where they come out of the floor so they make the baseboard radiator "pop", they usually do not "bang" like steam pipes do. And would sound like someone accidentally kicking the baseboard like a minor clang or thump - and typically quite metallic sounding in that case. The jut out on the house could make the noiseif it is heating and cooling signifiantly, but with constant heat in the house I would doubt it - that noise can occur on occasion due to siding being installed without adequate expansion gaps at the ends of boards or edges of panels. Usually if that is the problem, though, you will get bulging or end-cracking or splitting of the siding oer time. Plus of course the expansion and noise occurs in HOT conditions (usually direct sunlight on hot days), not in the cold of winter. Deck, especially in early winter as they initially freeze and the moisture content in the boards is typically high, tend to thump quite hard as they freeze - commonly sounds about like someone jumping up high and landing hard on the deck in boots, or maybe like someone hitting the far end of the house with a sledgehammer. Not uncommon to actually feel the thump while in your bed. What is happening can be one of several things: 1) most commonly, moisture in the boards is freezing causing expansion - till eventually the board(s) pop a nail, or break free of the frost holding them to the support boards. They freeze at the joists first because that is where the free water is and is accessible to the air all around so it freezes hard first, then as hard freezing conditions persist through the night the water in the boards themselves expands, causing the board to eventually break the ice bond - or in extreme cases to push hard enough against the end of the next board to break it free. This commonly happens from a couple to around 4-6 hours after evening hard freeze sets in, so commonly about midnightish as opposed to early evening or early AM, in normal daily temperature fluctuation conditions. This can easily happen to several boards in one night, and if thawing in the daytime, or especially if getting rained on or getting snow meltwater again, can become more frequent for awhile then taper off a few days to a week or so later. 2) decks are basically built as a single unit without specific expansion provision, but are semi-rigidly fastened in place by the piers and commonly rigidly fastened along the house edge - so any expansion or contraction creates stresses in the deck which eventually can get strong enough to cause popping and creaking and thumping noises. Because it is rigidly constructed, the stresses (from moisture or freezing or on large decks even just daily thermal changes) can accumulate fairly well before something releases, so the thump or bang can be quite loud. 3) if your support posts (on decks with outer edge support piers/posts and fastened to the house with a ledger board) are frost heaving, then they lift the deck upwards at the outer edge, which can cause sounds from nails prying out of the house as the ledger board tilts up - or in extreme cases ripping out of lag bolts or joist hangers. Check to be sure your ledger board is not tilting away form the house at the bottom, and that the deck is not tilting up significantly at the outer edge. 4) sometimes the freezing water in the deck boards can cause splitting of the board, which makes a tearing or ripping sound usually, rather than a thump. 5) occasionally, frost heave in the ground under the stairs can lift the stairs, causing tearing or ripping where it is fastened to the deck. While disturbing, this sort of noise (in moderation) does not normally "damage" a deck, though of course it does cause a general loosening up of fasteners over time, and sometimes snaps deck nails or screws (screws more often because they are generally higher stress steel, so can't yield as much before snapping). Of course, significant frost heaving does need to be taken care of - by solving the cause (footings bearing on/in frost heave susceptible soil) or by releveling the deck periodically if a slow, gradual year-by-year heaving of the foundations. Measures to take - just visually inspect the deck and alll support posts and connections periodically (every year or two) for broken or loose ones, but generally unless deck board fasteners break, you will not see anything except maybe a few nail heads sticking up. And check it with a level to be sure the outer edge is not lifting up due to frost heaving of the piers, and adjust back level (hopefully you have adjustable piers/posts).
?

Structural Engineering reviews in Milwaukee

A

Rating
Overall the inspector did very well. He not only pointed out the problems, but also provided estimates that gave me a better idea on how much it will cost to correct those problems. He also explained to me my options. The inspector was not pushy nor did he try to sell additional services. He did his job and made recommendations and provided additional information with regards to the drainage system being used in the basement. In a nutshell, he provided me with enough information to make a better decision on the purchase of the house.
- JOSE K.
A

Rating
Mr.
Milwaukee Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was very patient and informative. The company has done extensive commercial work, so he was able to offer design suggestions that were more creative then we'd even thought possible. Unfortunately, we were unable to engage the firm's services as they insisted on us giving them our financial information so that they could pull a credit report on us. They explained that they do this with every client and have found it necessary because they do not bill in advance of services being rendered. Since we were unwilling to give our financial information to them, they would not work with us.
- JANE & EAN B.
A

Rating
Milwaukee Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
l.
Milwaukee Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was very detail oriented and recommended a construction company for me to work with in renovating a 1921 house which will eventually be sold. He is very supportive in telling me what I can demolish myself and what I should leave alone for the carpenters, etc.
- CYNTHIA L G.

Structural Engineers in Milwaukee

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

85TH STREET DESIGN LLC

2809 N 85TH ST
Milwaukee

AASCEO

1810 Oakdale Drive
Waukesha

Accurate Home Inspection Service Inc

4508 N Larkin St
Milwaukee

ACP ENGINEERING SVC

W64N631 HANOVER AVE
Cedarburg

ADC MFG

N27W23655 PAUL RD
Pewaukee

Adolfo Alatriste Architect

250 E. Wisconsin Ave
Milwaukee

Alpine Design & Inspections, Structural Engineer

Structural Engineer / Architect
Cudahy

ALTAIR ENGINEERING

5150 N PORT WASHINGTON RD
Milwaukee

AMBROSE ENGINEERING INC

W66N215 COMMERCE CT
Cedarburg

AMS ENGINEERING

W314S5980 DABLE RD
Mukwonago

ARCHITECTURAL FRAMING SYSTEMS

1026 NORIDGE TRL
Port Washington

ARTOS ENGINEERING CO

W228N2792 DUPLAINVILLE RD
Waukesha

ASSOCIATED DESIGN INC

12970 W BLUEMOUND RD
Elm Grove

AUTOMATION SERVICE & DESIGN

11518 N. Port Washington Road
Mequon

B-DRY SYSTEMS OF MILWAUKEE

W262S1320 MAPLEWAY S
Waukesha

Bartelt The Remodeling Resource

528 Wells St
Delafield

BEACH & ASSOC

PO BOX 185
Waterford

BIEHL ENGINEERING INC

N66W12659 RAVINE DR
Menomonee Falls

BRAND STRENGTH PRODUCTS INC

3930 S WOODHILL LN
New Berlin

Brillo Home Improvements Inc

5315 N Lovers Ln Rd
Milwaukee

BUERKI BRENNAN ASSOC

9929 N Corey Ln
Mequon

BUILDING EVALUATION & DESIGN

623 W GRAND AVE
Port Washington

BURCK ENGINEERING LLC

2080 Lake Shore Rd
Grafton

BUSDOCK LLC

1507 E SUNSET DR
Waukesha

BUTLER ENGINEERING

137 WISCONSIN AVE
Waukesha

C J ENGINEERING

9205 W Center St Ste 214
Milwaukee

CGC INC

336 S CURTIS RD
Milwaukee

Charles Weber Consutling

3830 N 85th St
Milwaukee

CMR-X-RAY

2000 PEWAUKEE RD
Waukesha

COLLINS ENGINEERS INC

2033 W HOWARD AVE
Milwaukee

CONTROL ENGINEERING SOLUTIONS

5800 S OXFORD DR
New Berlin

COORDINATED POWER SYSTEMS

10120 W FOREST HOME AVE
Hales Corners

CREATIVE STRUCTURAL SOLUTIONS

W173N5002 CHESTNUT CT
Menomonee Falls

Creekstone Custom Carpentry, LLC

N144w6818 Pioneer Rd
Cedarburg

CRISPELL-SNYDER INC

W175N11081 Stonewood Dr Ste 103
Germantown

CTE ENGINEERS

W239N2890 PEWAUKEE RD
Pewaukee

CZARNECKI ENGINEERING INC

1121 Marlin Ct
Waukesha

D V Cable Inc.

2775 N. 67th St.
Milwaukee

DAAR ENGINEERING

325 E Chicago St Fl 5
Milwaukee

DEGELAU ENGINEERING

S75W32874 ROLLING FIELDS DR
Mukwonago

Design & Build LLC (Rain 4 Rent)

21690 Sierra Dr
Brookfield

DESIGN BUILD ASSOCIATES

4615 VETTELSON RD
Hartland

DIETZ ENGINEERING

190 GARDNER AVE
Burlington

DITTRICH ENGINEERING

1041 E CIRCLE DR
Milwaukee

DIXON ENGINEERING INC

9415 W FOREST HOME AVE
Hales Corners

Drain Tile Testing

3830 N. 85th. St.
Milwaukee

DUSKE DRYING SYSTEMS

6901 INDUSTRIAL LOOP
Greendale

DYNAMIC ENGINEERING SOLUTIONS

N114W19320 Clinton Dr Ste 4
Germantown

E Z CONVEYOR SVC

8861 W SCHLINGER AVE
Milwaukee

ECLIPSE CONTROL INC

7161 N 43RD ST
Milwaukee

EDWARDS ENGINEERING CONSLNTS

PO Box 170966
Milwaukee

ENGINEERED SOLUTIONS INC

N78W29098 FLYNN RD
Hartland

ENGINEERING SOLUTIONS GROUP

2110 N PALMER ST
Milwaukee

ENGINEERING SPECIALTIES

1405 16TH ST
Racine

ENGINEERS & SCIENTISTS-MILW

1515 W WISCONSIN AVE
Milwaukee

ENSR ENGINEERING INC

8965 S CAROLLTON DR
Oak Creek

ENVIRONMENTAL AUDITS INC

11327 W Lincoln Ave
Milwaukee

ENVIRONMENTAL AUDITS INC

6233 BANKERS RD
Racine

EVANS ASSOCIATES

5699 N Centerpark Way Apt 444
Milwaukee

FASTEK INTERNATIONAL LTD

295 REGENCY CT
Brookfield

FISHER COMPOSITE TECHNOLOGIES

3055 N BROOKFIELD RD
Brookfield

FRANK T LAMM & ASSOC

2780 ALMESBURY AVE
Brookfield

GARCES FIRE PROTECTION

4730 W EDGERTON AVE
Milwaukee

GEIGER ENGINEERING

316 N MILWAUKEE ST
Milwaukee

GEO-TECHNOLOGY INC

PO BOX 510661
New Berlin

GEOSYNTEC CONSULTANTS INC

10200 N Port Washington Rd Ste 200
Mequon

GESTRA ENGINEERING INC

1626 W Fond Du Lac Ave
Milwaukee

GRANITE ENGINEERING CORP

11501 N PARKVIEW DR
Mequon

GREAS ANHALT & SCHLOMER

340 N PINE ST
Burlington

HANSEN CONTROL CONSULTANT LLC

29000 KETTERHAGEN RD
Burlington

HAYES ENGINEERING CO SC

338 N Milwaukee St Ste 201
Milwaukee

HEIKKINEN & ASSOC INC

W258S4975 RED CLOVER DR
Waukesha

HENNEMAN ENGINEERING INC

250 N SUNNY SLOPE RD
Brookfield

HEY & ASSOC

240 REGENCY CT
Brookfield

HI SPEED AUTOMATION

2150 TAYLOR CT
Richfield

HOPPMANN MIDWEST

W188N10515 MAPLE RD
Germantown

HYDESIGN INC

4369 S HOWELL AVE
Milwaukee

IMPACT ENGINEERING

13400 Bishops Ln Ste 30
Brookfield

INDUSTRIAL TECHNICAL SVC INC

10520 N BAEHR RD
Mequon

INFINIGY ENGINEERING

5558 CHERRYWOOD CT
Hartford

INGENIUM PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

7741 COMMERCIAL LN
Allenton

INSPEC

126 N JEFFERSON
Milwaukee

J D DESIGN & BUILD

16445 PEPPER LN
Brookfield

JANINE GRAHAM PE

931 N WEBSTER ST
Port Washington

JAYTO CORP

PO Box 568
Sussex

Jendusa Design & Engineering, Inc.

4615 VETTELSON RD
Hartland

JOHN DEROSIA PE

38799 SCHOOL SECTION LAKE RD
Dousman

K 2 ENGINEERING

W224S8555 INDUSTRIAL DR
Big Bend

KAPUR & ASSOC INC

6025 PINE ST
Burlington

KEMP SYSTEMS

2970 N BROOKFIELD RD
Brookfield

KERRY ENGINEERING INC

9918 W MAGNOLIA ST
Milwaukee

KEY ENGINEERING INC

735 N WATER ST
Milwaukee

KLEIN ENGINEERING INC

5043 N WOODRUFF AVE
Milwaukee

KOUBA ENGINEERING LLC

10296 W PALMERSHEIM DR
Hales Corners

KPRG & ASSOC INC

14665 W LISBON RD
Brookfield

KTE CONSULTANTS

3315 N 124TH ST
Brookfield

LAIDLAW GROUP LTD

1442 N FARWELL AVE
Milwaukee

LAKESIDE TECHNICAL SVC INC

PO Box 1653
Brookfield

LAND TECH ENGINEERING

PO Box 15
Hartland

LANGHOFF ENGINEERING

N23W30565 GOLF HILLS DR
Pewaukee

LARSON ENGINEERING INC

1126 S 70TH ST
Milwaukee

LECLAIRE GROUP LLC

18455 PARKVIEW DR
Brookfield

LECO CORP

2334 STONEBRIDGE CIR
West Bend

M SQUARED ENGINEERING

W62N215 Washington Ave
Cedarburg

MAN MATERIAL LIFT ENGINEERING

5707 S PENNSYLVANIA AVE
Cudahy

MARGARET COLLINS DESIGN

3417 N LAKE DR
Milwaukee

MASTERCLEAN INC/PUROFIRST OF MILWAUKEE

16025 WEST RYERSON RD
New Berlin

Mather's Improvement Service

30735 Durand Avenue
Burlington

MATRIX MECHANICAL SOLUTIONS

3380 S 108TH ST
Milwaukee

MC CLURE ENGINEERING ASSOC INC

5417 N 118TH CT
Milwaukee

MEAD & HUNT INC

10700 W Research Dr Ste 155
Milwaukee

MEAD & HUNT INC

1109 N MAYFAIR RD
Milwaukee

MEEHANITE METAL CORP

11431 N PORT WASHINGTON
Mequon

METAL TEK INTL INC

905 E SAINT PAUL AVE
Waukesha

Michael J Till Associates

915 Michigan St
Sturgeon Bay

Michaels Energy

400 Main Street
La Crosse

Midwest Engineering Services, Inc.

821 Corporate Court
Waukesha

MIDWEST ENGINEERING SYSTEMS

W233N2800 ROUNDY CIR W
Pewaukee

MIDWEST STRUCTURE ENGINEERING

6510 W LAYTON AVE
Milwaukee

MILOS DESIGN

8917 W STUTH AVE
Milwaukee

MSC TECHNOLOGIES

PO BOX 427
West Bend

MWH

115 S 84TH ST
Milwaukee

MWH

5021 PINE RD
Cedarburg

NATURAL RESOURCE TECHNOLOGY

1402 7TH AVE
Grafton

NELSON LEASING

20302 WASHINGTON AVE
Union Grove

NORTHCENTRAL TELCOM

3480 HUBERTUS RD
Hubertus

NORTHCENTRAL TELCOM

301 W GRAND AVE
Port Washington

NORTHCENTRAL TELCOM

344 S 6TH AVE
West Bend

NORTHCENTRAL TELCOM

7721 W FOND DU LAC AVE
Milwaukee

Old World Builders & Remodelers

1604 Terry Rd
Hartford

OPERATING ENGINEERS CENTRAL

23233 ROUNDY DR
Waukesha

PANSLAVIA

6200 N 39TH ST
Milwaukee

PARADISE ENGINEERING SVC

N6237 PARADISE DR
Burlington

PARAMETER INC

13620 Wrayburn Rd
Elm Grove

PARMA ENGINEERING SOLUTIONS

N50W17205 CHESTNUT RD
Menomonee Falls

PARSONS BRINCKERHOFF

501 E FREISTADT RD
Mequon

PARSONS BRINCKERHOFF

342 N WATER ST
Milwaukee

Patera

2601 Sunny Slope Road
New Berlin

PATRICK ENGINEERING

20900 Swenson Dr Ste 100
Waukesha

PHILIP R TOME ROBOTICS

7935 S MISSION DR
Franklin

PILLAR DESIGN GROUP INC

307 S ROCHESTER ST
Mukwonago

POESCHL ENGINEERING

1406 HIDDEN WATERS CIR
West Bend

POWER CORE ENGINEERING INC

2821 N 4TH ST
Milwaukee

POWER ENGINEERS COLLABORATIVE

150 N SUNNY SLOPE RD
Brookfield

POWERTRAIN ENGINEERS INC

W293N3819 ROUND HILL CIR
Pewaukee

POWRTEK ENGINEERING

20711 Watertown Rd
Waukesha

PREUSS ENGINEERING ASSOC INC

13460 W EDGEWOOD AVE
New Berlin

PUJARA WIRTH TORKE INC

13100 WATERTOWN PLANK RD
Elm Grove

QUAM ENGINEERING LLC

544 S MAIN ST
West Bend

R P SCHMITZ CONSULTING ENG

357 TERRACE DR
Brookfield

RECYCLEMATE INC

1405 16TH ST
Racine

REDMON ENGINEERING CO

3306 ROSEWOOD LN
Racine

RIVER'S BEND ENGINEERING INC

1139 N SUNNYSLOPE DR
Racine

Rossi Construction Co

3055 Phillips Ave
Racine

ROTARY STORAGE & RETRIEVAL LLC

10555 W Parnell Ave Ste 5
Hales Corners

RUDGIG ENGINEERING

W153N7745 MEADOW LARK LN
Menomonee Falls

RUST HARZA

1555 N Rivercenter Dr Ste 214
Milwaukee

Schaller Home Solutions

5695 W Silverleaf Lane
Milwaukee

SEH INC

5395 N 118TH CT
Milwaukee

SHORT ELLIOT & HENDRICKSON INC

5395 N 118TH CT
Milwaukee

SIKA USA

1500 S Sylvania Ave Ste 111
Sturtevant

SIMU-ALYSIS

2747 N 53RD ST
Milwaukee

SOURCE ENGINEERING

W141N10638 WOODED HILLS DR
Germantown

SPECIALTY PARTS & SUPPLY CO

17025 W ROGERS DR
New Berlin

SPX SVC SOLUTIONS

4580 SOMERSET LN
Brookfield

STADELMANN ENGINEERING

PO Box 66
Menomonee Falls

STANLEY WEISS LTD

2321 E GLENDALE AVE
Milwaukee

STM CONSULTING

14515 Beechwood Ave
Brookfield

STORMWATER SOLUTIONS ENGINRNG

247 W Freshwater Way
Milwaukee

Story Hill Renovations LLC

6526 River Pkwy
Milwaukee

STRASS MAGUIRE & ASSOCIATES INC

6512 W Mequon Rd
Mequon

STRUC RITE DESIGN

217 WISCONSIN AVE
Waukesha

STRUCTURAL DIMENSIONS

11525 W NORTH AVE
Milwaukee

SULZER ENGINEERING

2457 Spring Brook Rd
Mosinee

SUNRISE ENGINEERING

W229S5191 HUNTERS HOLW
Waukesha

SUPERIOR DESIGN INC

2100 PEWAUKEE RD
Waukesha

SYNERGY TECHNOLOGIES LLC

N144W6466 PIONEER RD
Cedarburg

SYSTEMS ENGINEERING

4044 N 31ST ST
Milwaukee

TAK ENGINEERING

625 PERKINS DR
Mukwonago

TEMPLETON ENGINEERING

1777 N 83RD ST
Milwaukee

TEPA EC LLC

394 WILLIAMSTOWNE
Delafield

TERRA TEC ENGINEERING

W67N222 EVERGREEN BLVD
Cedarburg

THAD M SMYCZEK CONSULTING

12600 W CRAWFORD DR
New Berlin

THERMAL ENGINEERING INTL

4810 N 124TH ST
Milwaukee

THOMAS JAKUBOWSKI

N76W22300 CHERRY HILL RD
Sussex

timothyj kitchen & bath, inc

225 S 2nd St
Milwaukee

TRAFFIC ANALYSIS & DESIGN INC

N36W7505 BUCHANAN ST
Cedarburg

TRANSPORT ENGINEERING

4079 Schuster Dr
West Bend

TRIAD ENGINEERING INC-WI

325 E CHICAGO ST
Milwaukee

TROIKA NONWOVENS INC

233 W LAYTON AVE
Milwaukee

TRUE WIND ENGINEERING

2897 S DELAWARE AVE
Milwaukee

VANGUARD RESEARCH

4916 STATE ROAD
Hartland

W D ENGINEERING SALES

155 S EXECUTIVE DR
Brookfield

W D ENGINEERING SALES

2433 N MAYFAIR RD
Milwaukee

WALKER ENGINEERING

W153N9646 NEPTUNE DR
Germantown

WEASLER ENGINEERING INC

7801 HIGHWAY 45 N
West Bend

WEIDINGER FORBES & ASSOC LTD

13400 BISHOPS LN
Brookfield

WESTON SOLUTIONS

300 Plaza Cir # 202

WIELAND ENGINEERING SC

1307 WOODSIDE ST
Hartland

WILINSKI ASSOCIATES

1821 MOUNTAIN AVE
Milwaukee

WIS ERECTION & ENGINEERING INC

10724 W MICHIGAN ST
Milwaukee

WISCONSIN ARCHITECTURAL SALES

1845 FIELD CLIFFE DR
Richfield

X-NTH INC

241 N BROADWAY
Milwaukee

Xcel Construction LLc

3573 S. 84th Street
Milwaukee

YAMAHA ROBOTICS

6537 HILLCREST DR
Milwaukee

ZOE ENGINEERING

1915 N DR MARTIN LUTHER KING
Milwaukee

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