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A
" is the best in the business. The quality of his work and the service he provides are second to none. I have" three key criteria hire I expect from any quality contractor that I hire: 1) Be responsive: Answer/return my calls promptly. Address my concerns. 2) Deliver the work on time and on budget: all the work outlined on the contract must be finished and permitted within the agreed timeframe. 3) Take pride in your work. met and exceeded all my expectations. He was constantly in contact with me before, during and after the job was completed. This may not seem like a big deal, but if you’ve hired contractors before you know that getting your calls answered quickly and professionally is an important consideration when dealing with someone that may be taking a large sum of money on the promise that they will deliver a complex project with many moving parts. Prior to starting the job told me that he treated every job as if it were his own home. He kept that promise. We needed to have a driveway completely torn out, repaved and doubled in size, walkways added at the front and side of the house, a porch filled in and paved, and a large parking area prepared for a boat. We already had some ideas about what we wanted done and ’s advice and suggestions at the design stage proved invaluable. Based on his suggestions we ended up using different materials and layout than I originally envisioned, and I am thrilled that we followed his recommendations. There were a number of heavy rain days that threatened to delay the start of the job and kept us updated on a daily basis. The job commenced within two days of the originally planned start date and proceeded quickly from there. There was an additional permit delay halfway through the project that set things back by almost a week and again stayed constantly in touch with us throughout, even visiting the jobsite a couple times. During the job he was on site on an almost daily basis, pitching in and working with some of his crew at times to guide and correct some minor issues that cropped up. After the job was done we had some additional drainage alterations made to the house that threatened to cause long term damage to a section of the job had already completed. He came back on a weekend, tore out the work he had completed to spec, and redid that portion of the job to compensate for the new alterations. He did all this at no extra charge. The final product is not only beautiful, it is extremely well put together. took great pride in the work he and his crew delivered, and I have to say that I cannot envision he would have sdone much better had this project taken place at his own home. Based on my experience with a large and complicated project, I would not hesitate to recommend Champion Concrete to anyone that needs any paving, concrete or hardscape work done.

-Francis F.

A
"Initially, I contacted to install gutters for my house. I live close to country walk and I have a problem with standing water whenever it" rains. I needed the water to be disposed properly. was able to come out on a Friday, which is within couple of days of initially contacting him. He gave me an estimate for the job and said that he'd start on Monday. Over the weekend, I decided to address the standing water problem also, so I contacted who came out on Sunday and we discussed a solution. Basically the plan was to dig up couple of trenches on both sides of the house and then fill it up with medium sized rocks. The size of each trench was 1ft wide x 1ft deep x 50ft long! He came out with couple of other guys on Monday and started working. Two guys were doing the gutters and one guy started digging up the trench. Installing the gutters only took few hours, and it turned out pretty nice. I asked him to install extensions on the downspouts so the water goes out where I want it to. What took most of the time was all the digging and excavating; which is very demanding and laborious. On the second day, he went out and got those medium sized rocks to fill in trenches; it took exactly 3 truckloads (back of F-150) to fill up the trenches. The whole job took 2 days to be completed. The total amount that I mentioned was for these two jobs, which I found reasonable considering the amount of labor is needed to do the digging. He also installed a PVC extension for the my AC. He suggested a pvc extension that will drain the water coming out of the AC all the way to the front of the house. This way no water from the AC would be draining in the trench that he had dug up. told me at the end that I shouldn't have any problems with water standing from here on out!! It hasn't rained that much since he has completed the job, but I'm curious to see how it would react. Nonetheless, I'm happy with the work that he has done and he seemed pretty sincere in fixing my problem as if it was his own. He also reiterated that I should contact him if there are any problems with the work he has done. I will definitely consider him first for any work that I want do get done around the house in the future; now that I know that he's a handyman also!

-Atef A.

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Local Articles in Miami

backhoe

Excavating

There are many reasons why homeowners need a professional to excavate their yard, concrete or around their foundation. In this guide to hiring an excavator, we'll dig into what situations require someone to do excavation work, what to look for when hiring an excavator, what you should do before you dig, alternatives to excavation, costs to excavate on your property and scams to avoid.

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Angie's Answers

?

Short answer - yes it is possible. However, generally you are looking at major $, and a lot of workers tracking dirt up and down the basement stairs unless you have (or can easily add) an outside basement door.

You would need a General Contractor as well as a foundation specialist if you use a General, who will handle permits, minor electrical, plumbing, and drywall repair issues even though most of the heavy work may be done by the foundation specialist subcontractor. If you go the lift beam method, then it might be a house mover doing the lifting, then the General and normal trades handling the rest.

When a house is built with a part basement and part crawl space, the footer (the concrete strip support pad the foundation wall is bonded to with rebar and sits on) typically sits a foot or two below the basement slab. Then, to save money, they "step-up" the footer to a shallower depth for the crawl space. This means that to deepen the crawl space to full depth, you also have to deepen the foundation. It is very rare to put in full depth foundation all around, then backfill part of it to crawlspace depth - if you have gone to the trouble of full depth foundation all around, why not pour a slab and sell the additional basement footage too ? See if you can come up with the builder's plans p they will show you what the footer does.

Deepening the crawl space to full depth is commonly done in one of two ways for residential jobs (there are several more sophisticated methods such as pin piles used on large or very tricky commercial jobs, or on historic buildings with weak foundations and walls) -

1) by carefully excavating the crawl space to the new footer depth (say about 5-8 feet below ground level, depending on whether you have a daylight or full basement) bit by bit along the foundation (3-5 feet at a time, typically), usually tearing out the existing foundation for that section while temporarily support the existing wall and joists, then pouring a new concrete footer and foundation wall up to the bottom of the house beams. Occasionally, they will be able to leave the existing wall and pour the new foundation up to and connect to the bottom of it. Then you move on and do another section the same way, so you are incrementally removing dirt, building a new wall section, then moving on. This is quite expensive because of the limited work space and difficulty of getting materials in and waste dirt and old foundation materials out, and the slow progress due to having to wait for concrete to set before you can buid the wall on the footer, and before you can move on to the next section.

2) by cutting slots in the existing crawl space walls and sliding heavy steel beams through  crossways under the floor joists and picking up the weight of the section of the house over the crawl space on jacks, elevating it about 1/2 inch above the existing foundation, all at one time. Then they can remove the existing crawl space foundation and all the dirt all at once, and pour a new footer and pour or lay a new foundation up to the bottom of the walls, then lower the house back onto it and pull out the support beams.

Either way, because of the restricted work space and waitingon concrete setting, the excavation and new foundation will cost about 2-4 times as much as one done outdoors. Therefore, while this type of job is done on occasion, a contractor's or architect's estimate usually shows that you can build a totally new one story extension or Florida room for not an exorbitant amount more, and that new space is worth a lot more to most homeowners, and certainly to a new buyer, than basement space.

As one example, we had two neighbors years ago who had the numbers run by an architect, and for one the estimate was only 30% more to build a large Florida room than to reclaim a crawl space about 1/3 smaller in floor area. For the other they could get the foundation and rough framing (without siding, roof, or interior) for a basement-less new addition the same size for the same price as digging out the crawl space. For this reason, when crawl space expansion is done on a residence, it is usually a do-it-yourself job (and you have to be pretty experienced to do it right).

One other factor of significance if you dig out the crawl space is all the utilities (wiring, pipes, ducts, etc) have to be checked to see that there is freedom of movement at the interface between the area over the crawl space and the rest of the house, as there is bound to be a little bit of movement between them. It is also almost inevitable that there will be minor non-structural cracking and slight separation of plaster or drywall walls and ceilings at the junction area over the first couple of years afer construction. Nailed-down hardwood flooring and vinyl near the interface can also buckle, though "floating" laminate floors are usually OK. Of course, if the contractor is incompetent or inexperienced, serious damage to the house can result, particularly if the foundation collapses while he is digging.

Therefore, I would not recommend this route except for a very expensive house (as in building a wine cellar or safe room), a historic house where additions are prohibited, or one the owners just love and intend to live in for many more decades but do not have land space for an addition. I would put the money into an addition if you need the additional space and have the land.

?
?
Well the fact is he is going to have to pull permits which means it has to be inspected before he is done, you also have to consider the equiptment that he has to bring out to the jobsite to do the job and the man power plus materials, it's costly, but I am not from your area so if you are unsure call another company out and see what they say.
Don't tell them what the other company said as far as price.
?

It is almost certain that you will have to modify the foundation to make it deeper too - and that is MAJOR structural work.

 

You need a civil/geotechnical engineering firm with experience in foundation rehab and putting in basements under existing homes to design the process and prepare and seal the plans and specifications, which you will need before you can get a building permit for this. They will also be able to help you select either a foundation excavation or a house moving and jacking company to do the actual work for you.

 

The engineer can also help you with a cost estimate - because I think you will be surprised how much this is going to cost. I have designed or managed quite a few such jobs, from highrise buildings to homes, and even the smallest houses of about 600SF footprint ran at least $15,000, and generally house basement excavations run more like $25-40,000 unless the foundation was originally designed for it but for some reason the basement was never put in, which is VERY rare except in very deep frost areas were footings are occasionally deep enough to allow a basement to be dug without deepening them. I worked on a couple back east that ran about $100,000 each because they were old 2-story brick buildings, which are very sensitive to differential movements - probably like yours.

 

A couple of other factors to consider is that in doing this you are likely to get at least some minor drywall cracking and door and window jamming, and be sure the contractor is insured and bonded to the hilt and for the potential rebuild value of the house, not just the job cost, because a major mistake can turn your house into a teardown. Not common, but the less experienced the contractor the more likely he is to do something dramatically wrong, and at the same time the smaller and less experienced contractors generally have lower coverages so your risks is compounded in two ways. With a row home you have the added risk of damaging adjacent units.

 

One thing to consider cost wise before you go ahead - I have worked a couple of jobs where it turned out cheaper and far safer to scrap the digging in a basement idea and put in an addition with same footprint instead. However, looking back I see you are in a row home, so that is likely not going to work. However, being in a row home, especially if on the Potomac flats south or east of the capital area, the soil conditions are generally the pits once you get off the Georgetown heights, so putting a basement under a rowhome without disturbing the other ones is VERY difficult and pricey - I would be surprised if you could do it for less than $100,000.

One other factor is utilities - one of the first things to do is check depth to any utilities like sewer lines, the Metro, etc - if you are over one of those that could well put your project totally out of the frame of reality.

 

You asked for a recommendation - one who specializes in this type of work that I would recommend, though your job might well be too small size for them - but they might be able to give you an engineer and contractor recommendation if so. Company name is Schnabel Foundation Company in Sterling Va and Bethesda, MD in your area - website www.schnabel.com. They could handle both the engineering and construction.

?
If the windows are being put in by a general contractor, he can easily handle the window wells too. If you were looking for a window installer to do the windows, they might or might not do the window wells as well - some do, some do not. A small one-man excavation company can do this excavation, as can a handyman as it just takes about 1/2-1 hour shovel work per window in normal soil conditions, because the soil around the foundation is already pretty loose from foundation constructiuon (as a rule). Just be sure they pour concrete in the bottom to keep water from coming under the well, and that it is firmly fastened to the foundation and liberally asphalt sealed at the interface with the concrete - not just caulked at the edge, but mastic-coated on cleaned concrete BEFORE the window well in installed and concrete poured in the bottom. (Note - the concrete depends on soil conditions and water level - if your soil is pretty free draining and groundwater level never comes up to bottom of window well, then a gravel bed in the bottom is best so it stays dry - but if groundwater rises that high or you are in real impermeable soil like clay, then concrete works best. If concrete bottom is used, you probably want to have the clear acrylic window well cover put on too to keep water and frogs and such out. Of course, if this is an emergency egress window, you cannot put the plastic covers over it legally.
?

Wow - from way general to totally specific - nice job, you have your scope of work almost ready to contact potential bidders about giving a bid - just need to double check each item hads quantities attached to it, plus a plan with depths (or specify tie-in elevations to existing pipe and required drain/pipe slopes - say 1% or more). Search the List (in green banner bar) for Earthwork and Excavation contractors in your area with good reviews and ratings.

here is a very rough idea of costs - obviously you need bids to tie it down, this should just give you a ballpark to compare to - assuming all this work is done at the same time.

1) & 2) - Tree and rock maybe $100 - more like $200 if you want the stump totally rooted out rather than just the stump and root crown taken out.

3) Walk removal and disposal probably about $100-200 - maybe half if these are 3-4 inch individual concrete squares or rectangles that can be skidded to the side, the excavation and ground sloping done, then slid back into place with a backhoe or bobcat or by wood skids and prybar, eliminating the hauling and disposal cost.

4) Excavation and disposal of soil probably about $20-30/CY, because you are talking a small quantity. Cheaper if you have an on-site area it can be spread out onsite for disposal, or stockpiled in yard as a future project dirt pile, if that is suitable.

5) You don't say what the existing drain is - underground drain for downspouts maybe ? For shallow burial, probably about $5/LF or so. Why square - round is cheaper and far stronger for given material thickness.

6) Fence R&R probably about $150-200, depending on depth of posts and whether concreted in or not.

7) vegetation removal - not knowing how much, $100-200

8) Garden wall around $10-12/SF assuming excavated material from yard is suitable for the general backfill - remember should go 4-12 inches below grade for stability (4" for this wall, more like 6-12 for higher front wall)

Front/side yard:

1) Move large boulder - $50-100

2) vegetation removal and relocate 3 shrubs - $150-300 (not knowing how much vegetation orhow big shrubs are)

3) excavation at $20-30/CY again as above

4) sprinkler system relocate/repair - $75-150

5) garden wall around $12-15/SF as above including concrete footer needed for this height wall

6) area drain laterals about $5-10/LF, assuming not over 3 feet deep

7) slab drainage - I don't know where the quick lime idea came from, but this is a no-go - it will remove a small amount of water (maybe 5-20 gallons) from the soil one-time - it has no long term function as it will quickly become saturated. You are actually likely to have 5 wet circles in your concrete slab from this forever, as the lime will act as a soggy sponge, retaining water that would otherwise wick away. If you have or expect a basement slab moisture problem, then you need a sump pump with sump installed, and possibly (depending on how free-draining the base material under your slab is to carry waer to the sump pump) lateral drains cut in below the perimeter of the slab. Can run from $800-1500 range for a pump and pit depending on capacity and wiring situation, plus $500-1000 for an emergency battery-powered backup if desired. $1000-2500 range typically if lateral drains around the perimeter of the slab are necessary. Cheaper but sloppier and moisture-causing solution is small trenches or above-slab channels to carry the water to sump pump. These laterals are commonly held off on till you see if the sump pump can handle the issue itself, ASSUMING you have unfinished basement so a bit of seepage aroundbthe slab does no more damage than needing a mopping up. Personally, unless you have a continual seepage of water into basement or it is finished so leakage is critical, I would leave sump pump and drains for later - to see if your surface drainage changes eliminates the basement dampness problem, which it commonly does unless your water table rises to the basement slab level. Also, having a sump pump implies water issues and tolls against any future buyer finishing an unfinished basement, so it detracts from resale value if you have one.

Note these are off-the-cuff type numbers, NOT any sort of deliberate estimate - but I felt it was better to give you a ballpark than to just say go get estimates. Except for the floor drains, this sounds like a good job for a small 1-3 man excavation and hauling company, but make sure they have experience in putting in drain pipe and block walls and have good references in that area.

Note- if you are inclined to do it yourself work and have the time, most of this is good homeowner home improvement project material. You could have a contractor with a bobcat or small tractor with small backhoe come and pull the fence posts out (you could remove the above-ground apart easily), trench for the pipes, maybe move the rocks and sidewalk (though you could do that yourself with a few scraps of wood as skids and a 5 foot prybar assuming the walk is in piece, not continuously reinforced, and to do the bulk excavation and hauling for you, leaving the vegetation clearing, pipe work, trench backfilling, final slope dressing, block wall building, transplanting, etc to you - could cut your cost about 1/3-1/2. Basement slab drainage I consider a separate issue which would not cost significantly different if done as part of this job, or later if drainage channels or slab french drains are deemed necessary.

For the excavation - remember to get utility locates - I recommend once for bidding so they know where utilities are, then require the bidder to get relocates just before excavation starts. Gas, telephone, cable TV are commonly less than a foot down - water and sewer usually 3 feet or more but don't count on it. Also worry about septic system is you have that, and any power or water lines to/from well if you have a well. Plus of course your sprinkler system if in the way of proposed excavation.

Good Luck with your project

 

Excavating reviews in Miami

A

Rating
was responsive and timely from the beginning. The job ended up being much more difficult than expected, and took multiple days, but he kept his committent to do the job, and did so efficiently and in a timely manner, and for the original price he quoted me. I strongly recommend using his services!
- Lisa G.
A

Rating
Upon calling him to meet for the first time, a meeting time and date was setup immediately. He listened to my vision and offered ideas of his own that I found helpful. I found him to be responsive, punctual, and dependable. He also has a generous heart. He stated that he would be willing to pick up my purchased items, for example, at Home Depot ...More and bring them to my home. His goal was to make sure that the construction would not be delayed due to delivery issues. was even willing to work with other hired contractors.
I was not able to start any work on my home because of unanticipated medical issues. came to my home and returned 100% of my deposit back!
- Doris J.

Excavators in Miami

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

24 7 ENVIRONMENTAL SVC

16040 NE 2nd Ave
Miami

3 Bid Solutions

4715 NW 113 Terrace

A & G Retail Maintenance

6243 SW 158th Ave
Miami

A ALLIGATOR INC

17 W STATE ROAD
Fort Lauderdale

A BETTER AIM SEPTIC SVC

18495 S DIXIE HWY
Miami

A DRAIN ALL SEPTIC & PLUMBING

11411 SW 193RD ST
Miami

A Team Fire Sprinklers

PO Box 693712
Miami

A to Z Statewide Plumbing

2215 SW 58th Ter
West Park

A&K Tree Service & More

1601 SW 22nd Ave
Fort Lauderdale

A-1 ABLE ROOTER INC

5846 S FLAMINGO RD
Fort Lauderdale

AAA ABOVE ALL SUN GOLD

1037 NW 4TH ST
Homestead

AAA Affordable Contractors

430 Commadore Dr
Plantation

Absolute Demolition Inc

17994 Franjo Rd Ste 101
Miami

ACE SEPTIC TANK

12561 SW 119TH CT
Miami

Agramontes Painting

3888 SW 68 Ave
Miami

ALAIN SEPTIC TANK CORP

18601 SW 98TH AVE
Miami

ALFONSO SEPTIC TANK

9999 NW 89TH AVE
Miami

All Construction & Developers Inc

1000 5th St
Miami Beach

all florida general contracting llc

8051 Sunrise Lakes Dr N Apt 202
Fort Lauderdale

ALL MIAMI SEPTIC TANK

3374 NW 181st St
Miami Gardens

All Points Contractors LLC

2114 Johnson St
Hollywood

Allied Demolition

7950 NW 53rd St Ste 337
Miami

ALLPRO SEPTIC & SEWER INC

2700 NW 27TH ST
Miami

Alpha South Construction

1101 NE 214 STREET

American Bobcat

Fort Lauderdale

American Design Engineering Construction, Inc.

2853 Executive Park Drive
Weston

AMERICAN SEPTIC TANK CORP

15362 SW 36TH TER
Miami

Anthony M Mingoia Jr Inc

12080 Tara Drive
Plantation

B & D Site Developers

2059 Taylor Rd.
Myakka

B.D.M. Property Management LLC

1603 S. Cypress Road
Pompano Beach

Bari National Builders, LLC

20916 Sheridan St
Pembrook Pines

BARON HYDRAULIC INC.

10250 NW SOUTH RIVER DR.
Miami

BC Enterprise Inc

93911 Overseas Hwy
Tavernier

BC5 Construction

240 West Palmetto Park Rd. Suite#300
Boca Raton

Big Ron's Tree Services

16221 SW 98th Ave
Miami

BOB'S SEPTIC & DRAIN INC

PO BOX 612333
Miami

Boss Paving

2855 McNab Rd
Pompano Beach

CARLOS RIVERO PLUMBING CONTRS

757 NW 21ST TER
Miami

Casa Blanca Builders, LLC

10540 NW 26 Street
Miami

CAULKINGS EXPRESS

1932 NW MIAMI CT
Miami

Champion

11001 NW 83rd St
Miami

Chapman Septic Service, Inc.

PO Box 431911
Miami

CHS

6040 SW 29th St.
Miami

CMC Florida Investment Construction

10041 SW 42nd Terrace
Miami

Complete Building & Design Inc.

10388 W State Rd 84
Davie

CONSTRUBELLA ENGINEERS & DEVELOPERS CORP

15151 West Dixie Hwy
North Miami Beach

Construction Concierge Group CCG

1000 5th Street
Miami Beach

Coral Gables Plumbing Co

13101 Southwest 87th Avenue
Miami

CURB MASTERS INC

9950 SW 168TH TER
Miami

D & M TRENCHING CORP

10342 SW 164TH CT
Miami

D' Master Rooter Corp.

18520 nw 67th ave suite 209
Miami Gardens

dade wrecking inc

2641 nw 24 ct miami florida 33142
Miami

Danto Builders, LLC

1121 NW 51st Court
Fort Lauderdale

Dayve Co., Inc.

4781 NW 103 Avenue
Sunrise

Demolition Masters Inc

122 Madeira Ave
Miami

Diaz Group Construction LLC

8306 Mills Drive #438
Miami

Dig'em Up Corporation

PO Box 441897
Miami

DIRT CHEAP HOME AND LAWN SERVICES

1791 NW 17 ST.
Homestead

DNK Gas Services, Inc.

1600 SW 122nd Ave.
Miami

Douglas Orr Plumbing Inc

301 Flagler Dr
Miami

Eclipse of Miami LLC

934 N. University Drive
Pompano Beach

Eco Tech Construction Group

850 SW 142 Ave.
Miami

Eco Trees

9460 SW 53 St
Cooper City

EL VENDEDOR CORP

3383 NW 7TH ST
Miami

ENVIRONMENT SYSTEMS INTERNATIONAL

18520 NW 67TH AVE
Miami

epoca corp

800 Ne 125 Street
Miami

EXCAVATING TRENCH CORP

7950 NW 74TH ST
Miami

EZ Construction

5601 Collins Ave
Miami Beach

FREE FLOW CONSTRUCTION INC

13706 SW 145TH CT
Miami

Funk-E Designs

17911 NW 68th Ave
Miami

GARBAGEMAN.COM

1602 ALTON RD
Miami Beach

Gold coast Remodeling

Coral Springs

Gringo Construction Inc.

6200 Sw 123 Ter
Miami

H J FOUNDATION INC

8275 NW 80TH ST
Miami

I DIG 4U

19900 SW 188TH ST
Miami

Infiniti Custom Homes & Construction Inc

2331 N. State Road 7
Fort Lauderdale

J P EXCAVATING & GRADING

7651 SW 65TH PL
Miami

Jack's Junk Removal

5121 SW 90th Ave
Cooper City

Jenni Pool Inc

11777 SW 18th St
Miami

JIM BRYANT SEPTIC TANKS

2125 NW 192terr
Miami

JIREH Construction Services

7458 NW 178 Ter
Hialeah

JO-C Builders INC

4308 Pembroke Rd. Ste. 4
Hollywood

Joe Hillman Plumbers Inc

2280 SW 70th Ave
Davie

johanner

601w 43pl

Johnny Under Pressure

100 via Lugano Cir
Boynton Beach

JR Young Builders Inc

301 NE 51st St
Boca Raton

Junk Trash Removal

8331 NW 18th St
Pembroke Pines

Krumbein Construction LLC.

7178 SW 20th Place
Davie

LeLack Construction

6574 St Rd 7
Coconut Creek

Litzs Fixes

333 N Ocean Dr

Lord General Contractors Corporation

13799 Park Blvd. North
Seminole

LYDAISMI BOBCAT SVC INC

14370 SW 25TH TER
Miami

Mega Contracting

8040 NW 64th street

Merrick Construction Group Inc.

9630 SW 103 Avenue
Miami

MIAMI DADE ENVIRONMENTAL SVC

9591 FONTAINEBLEAU BLVD
Miami

MIAMI WRECKING CO

4540 NW 8TH TER
Fort Lauderdale

Milan and Son Plumbing Inc

410 N. Federal Hwy
Deerfield Beach

n/a

Miami

National United staffing of america

49 N Federal hwy ste 106

NDL Design-Build

1864 NE 46th St
Ft Lauderdale

Noble Development Corporation

8150 NW 53rd Street, #421
Miami

NTP SITE DEVELOPMENT INC

18700 SW 156th St
Miami

One Stop Construction, Inc

1000 Ponce De Leon Blvd
Coral Gables

One Two Tree Inc

7250 SW 42nd Ter
Miami

ORONI INC

14040 NW 6TH CT
Miami

PAN AMERICAN FOUNDATION CORP

7814 NE 4TH CT
Miami

Phoenix Construction USA

2899 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach

Plumber Mikes

2411 SW 58th Way
Hollywood

Plus One Services, Inc.

1930 Harrison St
Hollywood

PMG GENERAL CONTRACTING INC

7274 Papaya Way
Tamarac

PREMIER SURFACES INC.

14400 W PALOMINO DR.
Fort Lauderdale

Prestige Ponds

321 N. 66th Ave
Hollywood

ProTech Waste Services, LLC

PO Box 470223
Miami

Radiant Defiance D/B/A Dunn Development

PO BOX 823004
Pembroke Pines

Reiss Construction Group, Inc.

13611 South Dixie Hwy
Miami

REVIVE Contracting

12555 Biscayne Boulevard
North Miami

Richard A Hamann Jr. Bobcat Services

515 N 24th Ave.
Hollywood

RicMon Group LLC

17306 nw 63 pl
Hialeah

RODRIQUEZ BULLDOZER SVC INC

12840 NW 13TH AVE
Miami

ROSE ENGINEERING CONTRACTORS

8295 NW 93RD ST
Miami

ROYAL FLUSH SEPTIC

2511 SW 67TH AVE
Miami

SCOTT & SON ENGINEERING

14224 SW 136TH ST
Miami

Seacoast Enterprises Group, Inc.

7965 SW 136 ST
Pinecrest

SEPICORP GENERAL CONTRACTORS

3325 South University Drive
Fort Lauderdale

Service Resource Co

2101 NW 33rd St
Pompano Beach

STATEWIDE SEPTIC CONNECTIONS

PO Box 3865
Hollywood

Suncoast Corp. Builders & Developers

1852 Hammocks Blvd
Coconut Creek

Sustainscape, Inc.

4501 Oak Circle #3
Boca Raton

Tali's Crab Shack

3600 NW 183 ST
Miami Gardens

Teycosa LLC

PO BOX 266405
Fort Lauderdale

The Combined Group

7344 SW 48 ST
Miami

TST Development Corporation

4219 Cherrywood Ct
Weston

UE Machinery And Parts LLC

14850 NW 112TH AVE.
Hialeah

Unique Construction Inc

8171 NW 8th St
Miami

UNITED EARTHMOVERS INC

13800 SW 8TH ST
Miami

Universal Home Remodeling,Inc.

2828 N University Drive
Sunrise

V & C MACHADO EXCAVATION SVC

3420 NW 95TH TER
Miami

Vitri Corporation

2441 NW 93rd Ave #106A
Miami

Walts collected plants

29510 SW 180th Ave
Homestead

Winston Ricketts & Associates Inc.

2541 Aragon, Unit 106
Sunrise

Wright Scapes, Inc.

4839 SW 148 Avenue
Southwest Ranches

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