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"I had a TVA Energy. is on the TVA list and Angie's list so I had him do an estimate. I liked the recommendation and the price. " He was the only one to recommend window sealing as part of the plan. He and his crew worked very professionally for a day and a couple of hours the next day. Very nice people. I feel I got excellent work. Looking forward to enjoying the benefits this summer and winter.

-Linda W.

"- will teach you all the basics of home energy efficiency - he is an expert. He took the time to explain everything that he was proposing" and why we should consider the project. - We have been in our house for 3 years and have had issues with high utility bills and warm/cool spots in the house during temperature extremes. - and crew (3) did their work in a professional and expeditious manner over the course of one very full day. They did the work quickly and neatly. - We are already noticing a huge difference in the performance of our HVAC system and in the reduction in draftiness in the house. I look forward to a reduction in our utility bill.

-Jason P.

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Local Articles in Memphis

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

foundation installation

Insulating the outside of your foundation can help lower energy bills and keep your house warmer in winter.

Radiant barrier in attic

HVAC systems work more efficiently with the addition of a reflective barrier as part of your attic insulation.

Angie's Answers


Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Memphis


Would like to start by saying that a lot of time was spent doing research and interviews with numerous roofers. The selection of was definitely the right decision! (owner) was the project manager. Prior to the job, he took a lot of time to ensure that both parties had a clear understanding of the ...More work to be performed, warranties, materials and he provided a very detailed cost estimate. No surprises with additional costs at job end.
The work crew consisted of trained employees not contractors. They were very professional and did a great job. There were carpenters as well as roofers available. All materials were delivered prior to the job start date. They showed at 7 am on 6/12 and immediately got started, however it started raining around noon so the crew ensured everything was securely covered and stopped for the day. They returned the next morning promptly at 7 am and worked until 8 pm taking lunch as well as a few short breaks due to the heat. They returned at 7 am on 6/14 and finished up all the final cleanup around noon. Any issues were immediately addressed by the crew. There were tarps as well as the buggy was used to keep debris to a minimum. The yard/gardens were swept several times magnetically for nails....great job!
Another positive with installing a GAF roof system, is that there is an inspection done by GAF to ensure that the roof was properly installed to their standards. Kudos to ...the roof passed the inspection with top rankings. There was a couple of minor fixes (the garage exhaust vent had to be replaced with a GAF vent and additional sealant added to a vent screw) which were promptly addressed.
Roof looks great and utility costs are down due to the added insulation and solar fan. I would definitely recommend and !!! They were great to work with and took pride in their work ensuring that everything was addressed correctly and in a timely manner.

- L R.

I'm happy with what they did. The big thing that stands out about them is the fact that I've been told by so many people that they're the best in town. They're good, and they do excellent work. They're trustworthy.
- Cheryl C.

After a delay of several weeks returning my call and my complaint on , the owner apologized and said he was grateful for the feedback and has begun assigning inquiries a number so customers will know they haven't been forgotten. The crew was out the next day. Great job! No complaints.
- Valerie B.

They sent a letter after I posted a bad review for not responding to my inquiry explaining that my information had been taken but misplaced. I appreciate the apology and I hope they are more careful with their referrals. I know everyone can make a mistake.
- Valerie B.

We got in touch with , the owner, after having a TVA energy evaluation done on our home. He came by, looked at our evaluation results, and put together an estimate of all our options with attached costs. is very knowledgeable about the services he provides, is very professional, and customer oriented. ...More Once we decided on what we wanted to do, it was a short wait of about a week before the job began. They stripped our roof down to the decking, replaced the shingles on house and garage with energy star shingles, replaced any rotted wood, installed an attic/roofing ventilation system on the overhang of the house and garage, installed two attic solar fans, touch up painted all the trim that needed it, and replaced any trim that had suffered with the roof installation. All the roofing was done in a couple of very long 12 hour+ days and one morning follow-up by the roofing crew, and then a followup by the carpentry crew. They were tireless in getting this job done before it rained. Needless to say, this process was very noisy, but the crew was very unobtrusive even though they were on our property practically non-stop for several days. They kept our property neat and clean while the job was ongoing. After the roofs were completed, they installed short walls in the attic and insulated behind them to bring our attic insulation up to R 38-60 in spots. They also performed several miscellaneous carpentry jobs for us. and his supervisors were available when we had questions, and they were open to small changes we made along the way. Their attention to detail was exemplary. All the crews were top-notch, did quality work, and were professional, pleasant and courteous. We had absolutely no complaints about any part of this process. We had just had landscaping done around the house, and none of the landscaping was disturbed in any way! I was expecting at least some minor damage. I would recommend this company to anyone without reservation.
- John R.

Insulation Contractors in Memphis

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Airmark Services LLC

2881 Whitten Rd

Along the Grain

POBox 838271

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd



Carpenter Works Memphis

2129 S. Germantown Rd



Clean Air FX

654 Old River Cv

Coleman's Home Improvement Co

8308 Rankin Branch Rd


9277 Cordova Park Rd

Conway Services

1220 Big Orange Rd.

CS Mechanical Services, LLC

1029 Cross Winds Dr.

Davis Custom Renovations & Maintanence Services

3630 Otter Creek Cove

Dedicated Construction

3095 Ruskin Road

Direct Home Quote

13 S. Prescott St

Dream Homes Memphis

P.O. Box 752266

DRI Contractors

3525 Jenny Ln

Easy Living Construction

70 Commercial Loop Way

Elite Tech Services LLC.

7666 Fox Hunt Drive East

Energy Medic - Window Medic

5601 Normandy Ave

Excellent Roofing

5434 Pleasant View

Gold Coast Home Services

P.O. Box 22837

Handyman Ken Can

137 Cypress Ln



Investor Rehab Service, Inc.

511 Grassmeade Cove

J & C Sheet Metal Plus Home Improvements

6970 Lagrange Hill RD

JD Ventures LLC (JDRoof.co)

2101 Hillshire Cir

Jolly Enterprises

583 Cadraca Dr Apt 29

Knight - Stanz Contractors, LLC

2809 Shelby Street

L & M Resources, LLC

6626 Amersham Drive

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Lomax Insulation

927 Lamar Ave

Lucius Complete Home

2874 Price Dr

Martin Restoration

506 S. Main St. Ste. 102

Meadowbrook Builders

3190 N Avenel Cove


548 Monteigne Blvd

Metro Builders Inc

2504 Mt Moriah Bldg D

Mid-South Home Repairs

1233 wells station

Midtown Renovations

2270 York Ave

Nu-Prime Of Memphis

1420 Airways Blvd


3689 Cherry Rd

Parker's Workshop

1581 Nesting Dove Cove

Perfection Painting & Home Repairs

4775 Montgomery Street

Perry Love Construction

964 Sandra St.

Quality Insulation

6101 Discover Drive

Republic Roofing & Restoration LLC

91 Peyton Pkwy




7574 Old Mill Cv



S & M Customs

1287 Nelson dr

Service Experts Heating & Air Conditioning

7470 Bartlett Corp CV W

Service Medics

5100 Poplar Avenue

Sharper Image Landscaping

P.O. Box 3793

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

South Wind Construction

5559 Old Millington Rd



STJ Construction

PO Box 1761

Strickland Construction

71 Beaver Rd

Superior Home Products Inc

5093 Raleigh Lagrange Rd

Synergy Construction

5659 Bartlett Woods Dr

Terminix - Memphis

685 S Cox St

The Energy Doctor

4435 Barfield Rd

TileWorks and Remodeling

6269 East Stage Plaza

Top Notch Contracting

5731 Kuykendall Dr

U S Renovations

5408 Mahogany Ridge Dr


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Wildlife X Team - Midsouth

PO Box 414

Wilson Construction Services

3104 Mary Elizabeth Drive


PO Box 405

Yellowhammer Roofing Inc

5705 Stage Rd

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