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A
"There were no problems setting the appointment. The plumber,
, called the day before to confirm the 8:00 AM appointment. He showed up on" time and went to work immediately. He found out that the pipes were reversed, and corrected the input to the valve. He spent two hours working on the replacement in a somewhat confined space and the finished product looked really good. He was very courteous and congenial.

-Joseph K.

A
"The problem was not just in the toilet, but in the plumbing beyond.
recommended simply replacing the toilet (something we'd been considering)" in order to save his time and our money. That's what we did, and he installed the new one very quickly and resolved our issues.

-Curran R.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Madison

B

Rating
I would use this service again if I could afford the full price, and that's why the 'B' overall . The other reason I rank them a 'B' on professionalism, and this is true of many kinds of repair/remodel people that come into your home, is their boots are dirty from other jobs, etc., and they don't put covers on them or take them off. So that is a general comment, not just this service. Once they've cleaned a drain, they are standing in the shower running water to make sure everything works, what do you think is going to happen next? The floors and carpets get dirty from the wet, dirty boots and then it's clean up time for you. That's exactly what happened. My hallway carpet has to replaced because of a bathroom remodel. Be sure to ask them when they arrive, most have the boot covers in their trucks. Otherwise they are professional.
- Judith L.
A

Rating
Service technicians were extremely clean and professional in what could be a very dirty job. Two other companies were unable to fix the problem, but
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
said they would not give up until it was solved. Due to the nature of the clog, they returned with a licensed plumber so they could have all work completed as required. I cannot recommend
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
highly enough, would certainly use them again, and would be loathe to call anyone else.
- Craig M.
A

Rating
They got here in less then an hour (which they admitted was due to conveniently having just finished a job in the area.) They cleared the clog (which was under the foundation, based on how much of the snake he fed in) in about half an hour. They left everything clean, and gave instructions for how to help avoid having the problem recur.
- Michael L.
A

Rating
The service went really well, and the final bill was within range of the estimate. Further, they did additional services that we hadn't expected. The plumber was very patient and professional.
The plumber took a look at the bath tub problem, gave me options for how to fix it, and started on the kitchen sink. He had to remove part of an iron pipe, which was very noisy, but expected. He re-sealed the drain plugs and re-installed new pipes. Then he installed a new drain trap on the bathtub, replacing and old cylindrical trap that was prone to clogging.
Once he was done, I could hardly tell he had been in our house, other than having new plumbing. It went well and we haven't had problems with leaking sinks or clogged bathtubs since.
- Chris S.
A

Rating
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
came within a few hours of calling him, was right on time and did a great job. He is the nicest guy, to boot! He cleaned up the mess and told me how to help avoid the problem in the future. I will definitely use
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
again if and when I have the need. It's not often that a plugged drain can turn out to be a relatively painless experience!

- Robert F.
A

Rating
I can't recommend
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
highly enough. We did a load of wash on Saturday night that caused the basement floor drain to back up. I didn't think anyone would be able to come until Monday, but I called
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
number and left a message. I heard back from him 15 minutes later at 9 at night on a Saturday night! He asked about the problem, I described it, and he suggested he come over on Sunday. I didn't want to pay a premium for Sunday service, but he told me he was fully booked on Monday, and if I could allow him in on Sunday, there would be no premium.
We agreed that he'd come at 9 on Sunday morning. He was on time, asked the right questions, and got his machine down into the basement and in an hour the lateral was running freely again. Did I mention this was on a Sunday morning? And that I was not charged a premium?
Here it is Sunday night and I'm still waiting for calls back from all the other service providers that I called.
My hat's off to
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
. He said he's been in the business for 30 years, and I can tell you why - he's considerate, thorough and polite. I highly recommend him.
- Tom L.
A

Rating
Tech arrived on time, quickly assessed the problem with my slow draining Laundry Tubs as lint build-up in the drain pipe. Within 15 minutes that problem was fixed. As there is a one hour minimum, I asked him to run the main Sewer to the street, which he did and found nothing exceptional.
- Brian P.
A

Rating
I can't say enough about good things about
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
. I was so satisfied with his work, I (almost) hoped to have more clogged pipes in my old house just so I could have him come back! As it turned out, I had a very
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
problem to solve, yet
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
took the time to explain how my drainage system worked, pitfalls to watch out for if I try to unclog the pipes myself, and ways to prevent the problem from happening again. The price I put down was actually lower than the one I paid; he gave me a break for helping him during the job.
I told him that I was puzzled but not put off by his two low evaluations on Angie's List. Since he doesn't check his Angie's List ratings, I pulled the reviews up and showed him. One of the low scores was for a job that was erroneously attributed to his company. The other one isn't worth discussing; suffice it to say that the customer withheld vital information from
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
in the hopes of getting something for nothing. Even in remembering this difficult customer,
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was gracious and kind, without a
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
if ill will.
Madison Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
takes pride in his work, is knowledgeable, friendly, trustworthy, and everything else that one would want in a tradesman. Hire him!
- Peter C.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Madison

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

4 Lakes Plumbing Inc

4617 Dovetail Dr
Madison

A+ Plumbing

11014 Blackhawk Dr
Blue Mounds

Advanced Home Services

837 Royster Ave
Madison

All Clear Plumbing LLC

112 E Kohler St
Sun Prairie

All Season Exteriors

408 S Madison St
Stoughton

Area Septic Installation

W331 N4544 Emley Dr
Nashotah

Avid Plumbing LLC

2330 Vondron Rd
Madison

Benjamin Plumbing Inc

5396 King James Way
Madison

BETHKE JUDD PUMPS & PLUMBING

408 E NINE MOUND RD
Verona

Bio-Clean

7352 Darlin Court Unit 1
Dane

BUTLER W F PLUMBING INC

2602 MONROE ST
Madison

Chris Elke Plumbing

4705 Lafayette Dr
Madison

Cletus's Home Service LLC

429 Fairway St
Mount Horeb

Cooper Plumbing LLC

161 Horizon Dr
Verona

Drain Cleaners

3000 Syene Rd
Madison

Easy Way

1310 Baitinger Ct
Sun Prairie

Edgerton Rooter, LLC

401 second st
Edgerton

Foster Plumbing And Repair

E5270 County Rd WC
Spring Green

Greg's Rite Now Rooter LLC

1305 Northport Dr
Madison

HANDYMAN MATTERS INC

2951 CAMP LEONARD RD
Mc Farland

Handyman Matters of Madison

5613 Stadium Dr.
Madison

Happy To Help Home Improvement

5725 Elder Place
Madison

Hometown Plumbing LLC

3610 Lexington Ave
Madison

Innovative Plumbing, LLC

135 Emily Ln
Darien

J O Plumbing

509 S Hill St
De Forest

J O Plumbing Incorporated

P. O. Box 646
De Forest

Jack of All Trades Handyman

406 N Walbridge
Madison

Jensen Plumbing & Heating Inc

204 W Lake St
Lake Mills

LICHTFELD PLUMBING

5001 FEMRITE DR
Madison

LORENTZ PLUMBING

2406 WILLARD AVE
Madison

MADISON PLUMBING

5021 W NETHERWOOD RD
Oregon

Madison Sewer & Drain Cleaning

837 Oregon Parks Ave
Oregon

Mark's Reddi Rooter & Plumbing

1425 Gilson Street
Madison

Mefford Plumbing LLC

5850 Knickmeier Rd
Mazomanie

Oasen Plumbing

3862 Johns St
Madison

OLIVER'S PLUMBING & REMODEL

PO BOX 72
Sun Prairie

Personal Plumber LLC

12162 Shiloh Dr

Pete's Plumbing Service LLC

3734 Richard St
Madison

Plumbing & Glass Service Inc

221 S Main St
Verona

Plumbing Pros

917 Walsh Road STE 106
Madison

Plumbing Pros

917 Walsh Road
Madison

Property Image LLC

967 Jonathon Dr
Madison

Re-Bath of Central Wisconsin

230 N Koeller St.
Oshkosh

Right Choice Rooter Service LLC

532 N Willard Ave
Janesville

Rocket Rooter

202 N Main St
Verona

Roto-Rooter

4808 Ivywood Trl
Mcfarland

S & S Plumbing LLC

N7333 Rock Lake Road
Lake Mills

Schepp Plumbing & Pump Inc

N7228 Circle Dr
Pardeeville

SPEEDWAY SEWER SERVICE

4191 TWIN VALLEY RD
Middleton

Stahl Plumbing Service LLC

PO Box 620425
Middleton

STOPPLEWORTH PLUMBING LTD

7750 US HWY. 14
Middleton

The Country Plumber

P.O. Box 539
Portage

Triggs Plumbing

1723 Beld St
Madison

Waubesa Plumbing LLC.

5529 Sheil DR.
Oregon

Ziegler Plumbing & Repair

7625 Grinde Rd
De Forest

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