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Over 571 reviews for
Madison Concrete Levelers from people just like you.

"Late on September 17 I e-mailed requesting an estimate. Fish replied he would take look and by 8:00 on the 8th was" at the house. He looked over our 19 year old driveway and offered two solutions. One resolved the main issue the significant difference between the level of the driveway and that of the garage. The second included leveling the various sections of the driveway and resolving issues with the sidewalk leading to the front door, as well as the driveway to garage issue. We chose the more costly, but more comprehensive option, and shortly after noon had a written estimate in hand. said they would be in our area the next day if that worked for us. They arrived shortly before 8:00 on September 19 and by about 11:00 they were finished. The work was accomplished by drilling small holes (about and inch in diameter) into the concrete at strategic locations and pumping a a slurry mixture and smoothing out the openings with portland cement. The fact that on one side of the driveway the two sections closest to the garage door were still joined after 19 years made making the calculations and getting things even more difficult than they would have been had they been two separate sections like the other side of the driveway. We were also advised to use backer rod and a special caulk in the crack between the garage door and in the cracks between the sections of the driveway and to backfill along the sides of the driveway and sidewalk to prevent future erosion and settling. When I mentioned to 's two man crew how impressed I was with the responsiveness to my request for an estimate they told me customer service is his a priority. It shows. A job well done. I would definitely recommend !

-MC G.

"Very responsive, thorough and honest with initial assessment and estimate. Work was high quality, careful and timely. Cost very fair for work completed. Very" good communication. Estimates from other companies did not come close to value and quality of .

-Anne D.

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Local Articles in Madison

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Concrete - Pouring & Repair, Drywall, Landscaping, Plumbing, Remodeling - General, Siding, Remodeling - Kitchen & Bathroom, Painting - Exterior, Painting - Interior, Concrete - Leveling/Mudjacking, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Landscaping & Lighting, Concrete - Stamped & Decorative

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Concrete - Leveling/Mudjacking, Landscaping, Landscaping & Lighting

A Provo homeowner says the landscape contractor did poor work, including installing a high-tech sprinkler system that doesn't work. A Salt Lake City concrete contractor ignores complaints about shoddy patio and porch work.

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Concrete - Pouring & Repair, Drywall, Landscaping, Plumbing, Remodeling - General, Roofing, Siding, Remodeling - Kitchen & Bathroom, Painting - Exterior, Painting - Interior, Concrete - Leveling/Mudjacking, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Landscaping & Lighting, Concrete - Stamped & Decorative

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Concrete - Pouring & Repair, Landscaping, Masonry, Plumbing, Remodeling - General, Roofing, Tree Service, Greenhouses/Nurseries, Concrete - Leveling/Mudjacking, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Landscaping & Lighting, Concrete - Stamped & Decorative

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Angie's Answers


Bids are NOT done based on a multiplier on top of materials cost to get labor cost. Think of the consequences in the example you gave - by that method using say plain home depot tile made in Honduras might cost $5/SF materials, so by your method $10 labor. Now, same floor, with Carerra marble or Barre Granite at $75-100/SF - so do you want him charging you $150-200/SF labor when it takes almost exactly the same time regardless of material ?

To put it in simple terms, contractors:

1) figure the amount and cost of materials and consumables needed from the plans and specifications, applying a markup (from 15-50%, depending on contractor and how fancy or specialized a job it is).

2) Then they figure the equipment needed and the operating time to be used or elapsed time to be rented or leased - either opperating hour or elapsed time, or combination of both, especially if it consumes fuel

3) They then figure the labor time for the various trades required to do the job, maybe add an efficiency or ease of work multiplier to those hours to fit the job conditions, multiply those hours by the hourly pay rates, then multiply that times the "load" or "Labor Overhead" to account for employment taxes, workman's compensation costs, health plan, etc, etc.

4) Then they add in the cost of any architect or engineer plans or certifications that are needed, government permits and inspections, etc.

5) Then they add in any subcontractor bids, with appropriate contingency amount for each.

6) All those above totals are added up, an appropriate overall contingency added if needed (typically 5-10%, but on remote site jobs I have seen as high as 200%), and (depending on how contractor figures his costs) at least all the "in-house" costs like his equipment, consumables, and labor costs have a percentage overhead and profit added to them - typically about 100-150%. Some contractors use a lower overhead percentage but apply it to the total estimated job cost, not just in-house costs.

This "company overhead" or "general overhead" or "G&A - General and Administrative Overhead" covers the costs of financing and running the company, management and secretarial and general supply and maintenance costs, buildings and equipment yards lease or mortgage cost, working capital cost, insurance, loan interest, general shop equipment payments, profit, etc. Some contractors use a lower overhead and apply it to every cost in the job, some (especially those doing government work so havingto adhere to government accounting rules) apply a "markup percentage" to materials and rental costs and outside subcontract services, and apply G&A overhead only to in-house costs.


That being said, for a general class of work it does generally (on normal jobs) work out that there is a general multiple of labor to materials cost. For instance, yard work and residential tree work is heavy on labor, so it might have a labor to materials ratio of 3:1 or even 5:1.  Detail foundation hand excavation and underpinning can run to 5:1 or more. Many types of building construction like plumbing, tile, carpentry, etc. do end up with a very roughly 2:1 or 3:1 ratio of labor to materials cost. At the other extreme, high energy efficiency or hurricane rated glass installation or a fancy full-building computer and communications system or high-end entertainment center might have a labor to materials ratio of 0.25-0.5 because it is designed to go in pretty fast, but the materials cost a lot.

For your case, a hardscaping ratio could run from 0.5:1 or less to as much as 3:1 or more, for installations with very expensive imported stone and fancy woods and a lot of bought decorative items such as statuary, to the opposite labor-intensive landscaping with lots of sidehill terracing and hand-planted flower beds, hand-dug irrigation system trenches, and manual-placed concrete block or railroad tie walls. Each job should be figured on its own merits - using a "rule-of-thumb" is where people commonly get unpleasantly surprised. That is why you typically get 3 bids unless you have a contractor you trust from prior experience and are confident will give you a fair shake regardless of being sole-sourced. Personally, both for my own purposes and professionally in the design and construction business, I have found sole-source to trusted contractors you have experience with is, in the long run, a BIG money and time saver, as well as making it far more likely to finish on schedule and let you sleep at night.


You need a general contractor - prefereably one who specializes in additions, because you have excavation, waterproofing, concrete, concrete cutting, carpentry, door and window, etc trades to coordinate.

The cost will depend a great deal on your topography around the house - if the base of the window will be above ground level at least 6 inches, then could run about $500 for a legal egress window purchase and about $1000-2000 for installation, depending on how deep into the concrete you have to cut.

If the bottom of the window will be below ground level, then to call it a bedroom (which mandates legal sized second egress and usauully at least one window)  then you will have two choices - bring it out into a solid watertight concrete storm cellar with collar to keep water out, stairs, and and weather and bug-tight cellar door that is inward-opening, which means a lot of space for stairs and landings top and bottom, or bring it out into an oversized window well at least 36 inches in diameter, and with steps to ground level, with adequate drainage and waterproofing to keep it dry. Either way, sometimes about as easy to put in an outside door as a window, and might raise property value more. Cost from $2-5,000 depending on how deep into concrete wall you have to dig, whether concrete wsall needs reinforcing with steel frame because of the depth of cut, how easy the digging is, and what your water conditions are near the foundation. The last thing you want to do is create an easy water or vermin ingress with your egress.


The cost to install the veneer stone has a wide range do to many factors. It can range from around $9 to $17 per square foot. It depends on the location, the stone being used, job access, skaffolding needs, wall prep and such. I would think you would be on the lower end of the scale. Your job is on a concrete surface so it eliminates one of the biggest problems they are having with this product, wall preperation. This one of the things that separates the high bidders from the low ones. There are million dollars homes being torn down because of improper wall prep. One a wood frame house a backing system that allows drainage is a must or the moisture absorbed by the veneer can rot the walls behind with alarming speed. Some have had makor damage within the first four years. On a concrete wall the veneer needs no such prep at most wire mesh applied if it is an older concrete wall.




Is the wall that the garage is sloped toward and adjacent wall of the home?


If not, it should not be of real concern. 


Try to keep the water out of the garage with a gasket on the door. 




If the state requires a contractor's license, then he needs to have a license in each state he intends to work in - plus state/local business licenses as applicable.


This does not mean there are not a lot of contractors who cross state lines without proper licensing - the penalties in may cases are not real severe and are just a fine, not criminal, so many take the chance.


As you say - argh  - many contractors are not really businessmen and have zero legal education, so many people get burned.

Mudjacking reviews in Madison


Prompt estimate and work done in a reasonable time period. very good work done (one tiny area could have been lifted a bit more to make flush) and complete clean up.
- Robert & Kari H.

It went extremely well. 's bid was HALF that of 'The Concrete Company' and he arrived prompted, completely the task in short order and answered all questions to my satisfaction. I'd hire him again any time I needed concrete work of this nature.
- Elsa A.

They were responsive to our questions (our first experience with concrete raising), did what they said they would do, were very polite and professional, and charged us exactly what they said they would. They cleaned up after themselves. I will hire them again if I need concrete raised.
- Bryce M.

did a nice job leveling my entry walk. It is two series of four and six steps separated by two flat pieces of four and seven feet. The walk was really tipping down the hill. He did a good job of aligning and leveling the walk. arrived when he said he would and finished before the day was out. His crew ...More was great about keeping off all the plants lining the walk and did a super cleanup job. Though the work took longer than he thought it would, the price was his original. I highly recommend his company.
- Nancy W.

was very prompt with his estimate---I had 4 other estimates. I picked cause he made more sense when I asked certain questions, and I could tell he really "knew his stuff". He said it might be 2 weeks out, but he was here in a week, did an excellent job----they were at least 2 inches or more ...More low towards the basement windows. He raised them all and even shaved a couple so everything is nice and even. The other estimates were about $300 more. What a pleasure to do business with somebody who really knows his stuff & a 4 yr warranty and is honest. thanks .
- Judith F.

The excavation turned out to be a more difficult project than originally expected, but they hung in there and got the job done. Our front yard was leveled well and the side walk was poured and leveled well.
- Denis S.

Concrete Levelers in Madison

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Ageless Concrete LLC

5518 County Rd CV

All Season Exteriors

408 S Madison St

Badger Basement Systems

N1656 Hwy 12
Fort Atkinson

Charles Stocks Masonry

N 9251 River Bend Rd

CRC Concrete Raising Corporation

New Berlin

Dry Otter Basement Waterproofing LLC

4328 Tanglewood Dr

Duerst Insulation Technicians


Enhanced Concrete Systems

20108 - 63 Street,

Fish Concrete Raising

4064 Timber Lane
Cross Plains

Hammer Builders LLC

9830 Dunlap Hollow Rd

Krizan Concrete Inc

4591 Kennedy Rd
Cottage Grove


PO Box 41

Nelson Mudjacking

6207 Renee Ct

ProAxis LLC - Restoration and Waterproofing

628 West Hudson Street

Spray Tech

9236 n arrowhead shores rd

Superior Concrete Service LLC

N8501 River Rd

The Concrete Co

1202 N Page St

Washa Construction Inc

4915 Farwell St

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