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Louisville Mold Removal Experts from people just like you.

"Everyone we dealt with was courteous & professional. Installation was day we ordered, with installer being very professional & going out of his way to protect" our property. I would definitely recommend to everyone in the future.

-Steve J.

" , was easy to talk to. I questioned his method when he asked me for pictures. Everyone else came here. Now I know that he knows what he is" doing. He recognized the mold immediately. the Technician that came out was great. He was very professional. So far it looks wonderful. I will tell people about this company even if they do not need mold remediation.

-Sandra D.

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Local Articles in Louisville

removing black mold

Mold Removal and Remediation

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

mold remediation contractor removes baseboards

Few things strike fear and anxiety in the hearts of homeowners as strongly as the presence of mold.

mold remediation contractor secures home

It's never good news when a homeowner discovers mold, especially dangerous black mold, somewhere in the home.

circles of mold growth in wood cabinets

Homeowners can't solve a mold problem by selling their home to an unsuspecting buyer. Here's what buyers and sellers should know.

There are three major home repairs you have to do if you want to protect the value of your home. While they aren’t fun, you can’t put them off. See if you agree with these three unsexy home improvement projects you just have to do.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Louisville


came out to our house on time as promised. He did an inspection and really took the time to educate me and make sure that I fixed all the problems I was having. He offered his services for a resonable price. He then told me how to do the same thing myself in order to save money. He is extremely honest, save yourself the hassle ...More and call him FIRST. I then had my ducts cleaned but unfortunately could not do it because he was so busy. Thats because people probably had the same positive experience that I had. Thanks again and I will definetly call you in the future.
- Jennefer R.

answered his call within a few minutes and answered all my questions. He showed up on time and did exactly what I asked of him and for 50% less than the competition. He spent more time than I expected and went out of his way to make sure my house was thoroughly checked over with a no mold diagnosis. Then after the inspection ...More and after I PAid him he still helped me out and answered questions. If you need a mold inspector do yourself a favor and call this guy first! Thanks .
- Jennefer R.

They were great, very friendly and accomodating, worked hard and fast, did a great job, and i could immediately feel the difference in my home.
- Lynnette L.

and of were punctual and professional. and I did have a communication snafu but it was easily worked out. Burkehead was in constant contact with them and me to make sure that I was happy with my service. They were friendly and cleaned ...More up after themselves well.
- JoAnn U.

Went well. Inspected site where mold was suspected and entire house - inside and out - for other potential problem areas. When we are ready to complete the project, we will call them back to do the work.
- Karin J.

There was more than one day that I expected them and made arrangements for myself or someone else to be at my home. They were either late or not show up at all. I would call and there would be a reason, they just hadn't let me know of the change.
Throughout the job they had to my shovel? The work area had to be ...More accessed through my upstairs bedroom. They never offered to anything down to protect my floor or carpet. When I realized what a mess the job was going to create I got out my own old runners for them to walk on.
There was 2 phases to the demo, phase 2 he sent a employee to pick up the check. When he got here I was asked to void the check to the company and make out to the employee. I probably shouldn't have but I did, still feel it was unprofessional and think I was put in a awkward position.
The job was just a demo they were not hired for the rebuild. These are some small items, but for the price I expected more professionalism.
I've had a lot of work done by professionals since moving into this home. Inground pool installed, fire pit and pavers installed and even hard wood floors put in and never felt I needed to leave a bad review.

- Teresa W.

I'll preface my comments with a note that I am 'detail oriented' and have been in customer service for 31 years. I know greeat customer service when I see it. This is NOT great customer service.
I bought a deal for a roof inspection. Scheduled with Mr. who came out in a timely manner. He took pictures and ...More even some video of a problem area. He was initially prompt in communication, though somewhat disorganized in his responses. For example, I'd ask two or three questions and get a response to only one. I'd reply back asking for the other answers and get another response to a different email I chalked that up to him being busy and striving to be prompt.
My first red flag should have been when following the 'roof inspection' I was told I had to replace "all" of my flashing, "All of your counter flashings need remade and installed properly." When I questioned that during a phone conversation with Mr. and stated that I had just had 2 other areas of flashing replaced in the past two years, he began to back peddle on his comments and then admitted that he had not looked at all of the flashing but "assumed" that it all had the same problems he found in the one area. Against my better judgement and gut feel, I opted to continue working with him.
I received my Quote on August 5th and the cost was fair. I accepted on August 7th and was told, "should be able to start sometime next week." On Monday August 11th I received, "Maybe we can try tomorrow or this week sometime." Several emails later, on August 28th I received, "We will have roof flashings done before weeks out next week." On September 5th, I received, "Will it be ok to work Sunday?" So a month to the day for being told 'next week' the work was finally completed....or so I thought.
On September 9th I received a request for payment. On September 11th, it rains and my master bedroom has a leak (which it had not had prior to Mr. 's inspection)....far away from the area that work was performed on the flashing. I suspected the 'roof tune up' may have created the problem. I call Mr. a couple times that morning on the way to work to have them come out and inspect/fix the leak. Once I finally got him to answer his phone (he was in a class) he informed me that they had not yet done the 'roof tune up' and that they could not have caused the problem (when his guy came out to do the flashing repair, he did not have the right ladder to get to the whole roof). To his CREDIT, he did come out with one of his team that day and found that a plumbing vent pipe joint had come loose. He did an effective, temporary repair at no charge (which he reminded me several times during a follow up conversation). I expressed to him, several times, that I appreciated him taking care of the leak.
On September 15th, he requested payment. I replied back asking when the 'roof tune up' would be completed to which he replied that it was done the day they came out to look at the leak. I went back and reviewed text messages with my wife during that time and from the time my wife told me that they were going to the roof to the time she told me they were gone was 22 minutes. Now I don't have a mansion, but it is a very large, multiple pitch 'custom' roof. When I asked essentially how could they have done a complete roof tune up in that time frame, his reply was, "Once payment is made we can break it down for you." Hardly a customer focused response.
Wanting to put an end to this, I made the payment in full. I was told I would get emailed a receipt. After three days with no receipt, I followed up again and finally got my receipt, but still no response to the 'roof tune up' question. I questioned him again to get the reply of, "The tuneup is sealing of exposed nail heads which did not take two guys but only about 10-15 minutes." The previous 'tune up' description was, "We will also do a basic roof tune-up which consist of sealing the rest of the flashings on home, sealing all exposed nail heads on plumbing vents, roof vents, ridge caps etc." While I have not yet paid ANOTHER roofer to come out and review the work (or lack of work) completed, my experience and gut tells me that quality, industry standard efforts were not made during this 'tune up.'
In a nut shell, Mr. seemed personable and responsive for the initial interactions. It was all downhill from there. As I reviewed my email history of this experience with him I found all of these problems with the consistency of his words. The worst part is that I really wanted to find a business that I could have a long term relationship with for the projects we have identified.
What I found lacking was:
1) Consistency
2) Responsiveness
3) Making and Keeping Commitments
4) Customer Service
If you choose to hire Mr. for any services, I certainly hope that your experience with him is much better than what mine was (and several other people here on Angie's list). From reading the other reviews it seems that his sub contractors do very good work once they get to the job, which was my experience, as well.
- William S.

Went great. was on time, super courteous, and professional. He got back to us right away with a bid, and we'll move forward in a few weeks.
- Benjamin R.

Mold Removal Experts in Louisville

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!





Action Property Management LLC

PO Box 1354



All Painting Plus, LLC

1512 Hawkshead Ln

All Solutions

411 Knobloch Ave.

Anthony Cunningham Construction

P.O. box 116

Aqua Lock

10470 Bluegrass Pkwy

Bluegrass Home Restorations

7002 Red Berry Ct

Bluegrass Services of Ky

PO Box 304
Mount Washington

Bluegrass Technologies Corp

3004 Lambach Ct

Bocock Construction Inc.

4210 Milo Dr.

Bone-Dry Waterproofing Inc

2529 Ridgemar Ct

Burkheads Home Specialist

140 Cajun Ct

Champion Waterproofing & Piering LLC

11214 Decimal Drive

Clean Air Plus

10300 Linn Station Rd

COIT Services Inc

2730 Crittenden Dr

Corporate Cleaning Solutions LLC

610 Oak Branch Rd

Crawlspace Doctor

120 S 15th St

Divine Contracting, LLC

4710 Corydon Pike



Environmental Safety Technologies Inc

1815 Brownsboro Rd

H&M Property Preservation Inc

68 McDreamy Ct

HGC llc

1604 Lake Shore circle

Home Design Expo Inc.

455 South 4th Street

Home Inspection All Star Louisville

12806 Townepark Way

HomeMD Inspection Services

1919 Rutherford Avenue

HomeTeam Inspections

3505 Hedgewick Pl

Hudepohl Restoration of Greater Louisville

1257 South Floyd Street

Indiana United LLC

210 Robin Lynn Dr

J & R Construction Services Inc

633 West Main Street

K&M Construction

1518 Petunia Ave

Lake Forest Living

4535 Biles Ct.

Louisville Carpet Cleaning & Flood Restoration

4001 South Brook St. Suite 7

Micro Analytics Inc

3310 C Gilmore Industrial Blvd

Mold Inspection & Testing Louisville KY

8219 Sheperdsville Rd.


2501 Mayes Road

Paul Davis Restoration

2689 Bardstown Rd

Paul Davis Restoration & Remodeling

945 S Floyd St

Precise Remodeling

4736 Rockford Plaza

Precision Dry of Kentucky, LLC

667 Old Brooks Hill Rd

Preventech Restoration & Remodeling

9276 Storage Way


1225 Bringham Dr

Protect Environmental

9822 Bluegrass Pkwy

Purofirst Disaster Services

2251 Stanley Gault Pkwy

Rutledge Environmental Services

6102 Hitt Ln

Servpro of Bullitt and N Nelson Counties

5089 N Preston Hwy Suite#C


9407 Westport Road

Servpro Of Oldham

PO BOX 606

SporeTech Mold Investigations


The Basement Doctor

7825 Red Sky Dr

The Basement Wizard

4813 Hummingbird Cir.

TPS Services

2660 French Creek Rd

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive

Young Environmental Services

3926 Scenic Trail

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