Louisville Mold Remediators

in Louisville, KY

Mold Remediators are
in Louisville

Mold Remediators in Louisville
are top rated

Rated by
Patrick E.
"He could not get off the phone long enough to even talk to me much less give my home a 10 point inspection. there was no moisture reading no humidity reading did not bother" to go into my attic. no inspection of my crawlspace. no written estimate for cost to repair, even if he did give me a cost estimate I would have not hired him.
Rated by
Kenneth S.
"I contacted
about a roof inspection.
performed the expectation, gave me his recommendation. The price was extremely reasonable. The" work on the roof was completely within 2 days. Excellent experience.
Home Specialist is now #1 on my list for home needs!!!!
Rated by
Beverly H.
"I had just begun working with a decorator and turned to Angie's List to locate someone who could remodel built-in bookcases where I needed space to put in a desk to create a new" home office. Enter
and the very talented and efficient
and his crew of carpenters. These guys arrive when they say they will, listen to what you want built, and get it done! At the same time, Mr.
sent his plaster masters to check out the sagging wall in my foyer. They pulled off wallpaper and discovered a small area of the dread black mold. Not to worry, Mr. B is certified to take care of mold..less than 48 hours after the mold was discovered, it had been treated with the appropriate chemicals, my air-ducts had also been treated so that mold spores would not be lurking around for future trouble and in the process Mr. B himself dealt with old asbestos tape that his workers had discovered on some of the old ductwork in my basement. This is not the first time I've had remodeling done on this house and I've been pleased with previous projects. However, I rate my experience with
Home Specialists as superior to any other contractors with whom I have worked in the past. If my ship ever comes in and I can build my dream home, I know who I will call and I recommend that you do the same!

Local Articles in Louisville

removing black mold


Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Most molds, when allowed to grow in abundance, are visibly seen in certain colors, says Cascone. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Teresa K. of Beachwood, Ohio)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Mold may be present in your home and affecting your life even if no actual mold is visible. Here are four things that may indicate you need mold remediation.

"While it’s entirely possible that you do have mold in your air ducts, such claims are also a common scare tactic used by some less-than-scrupulous air duct cleaning companies," Angie Hicks says.
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Do you have mold in your air ducts? Learn how to identify mold and remediate it, along with what you should expect to pay. Angie Hicks provides the answers.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Louisville


He did all this while I was at work. I never met him, but we did talk on the phone. He said the roof had hail damage and I"m still waiting for insurance to make an inspection.

- Cheryl T.

The house we lived in was very humid due to the extra build ons that were done prior to us moving in.
Louisville Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was very knowledgeable about what needed to be done. He kept in contact with me and sent me everything through email so I could keep reports and know what was going on. I knew it wasn't going to be cheap because anything dealing with mold is never cheap but I was ok with paying what I did. Everything went smoothly and we haven't had one problem since. I would definitely-although I hope to never have to see them again-use them again if I were to have any more mold problems-no offense to
Louisville Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
but mold is just not something I ever want to have to deal with again!
- Roger S.

Roof had very minor leak from the chimney side, So bought this package deal. I requested the service person to give me 40 minutes notice, so I can be home when he does his work.
My review is based on following things:
Scheduling took long time (more than 2 weeks, may be they got overwhelmed by the response they got)
I did not get call before the work, So I was not present when they did the work.
Apparently I do not know what they did (or did not).
Little bit hesitant to buy any "deals" from Angie's List as this was my first experience and did not go well.
- Sandeep K.

I thought he was a very nice man. I really liked him but....First, he was two hours late...the appointment was at 5:00 p.m,and I had to be somewhere at 7:30. He never showed at 5 and I kept texting him for his arrival time..he finally showed up as I was leaving,.around 7:30 p.m...he quickly surveyed the area that I had concerns about and he stated that it was mold. He then went to a couple other rooms and found nothing. He then went outside and said I needed new flashing and something else...He sent a quote of around $1,500. I thought I should get a second quote. The second company told me that they needed to first see the attic for other signs of mold (which
Louisville Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
's did not). The second guy went to the attic and only saw a small sign where mold was present long before and nothing to worry about. He sealed up the flashing where water possible came in at one time. Cost was minimal ...basically, his time.
- Martha D.

I contacted
Louisville Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
to give me an estimate on a small bathroom job. He came out within the week to give me the estimate.
From the beginning, I told him that I only had a particular week to do the job and could only meet up at 8 AM to let him in as the property is a rental and out of consideration for the tenants that live there. It is the only bathroom in the house. I asked him and told him this several times. He promised me that he would "make it work" with the time constraints I had. Well, on the day the job was to begin...even after talking the day before, it was like he never heard me. He couldn't understand why he couldn't start the job at 9 am this morning after telling him numerous times that the tenants were not leaving to go out of town until 3:30 today. So he told me to get someone else to do the job because "it would make things easier" for him.
Throughout my conversations with him, I always felt like he seemed pre-occupied and scattered. He would text late at night asking the same questions that we had just talked about on a prior conversation. He blamed his "scatterness" on Angie's List saying that Angie's List forces him to take the jobs.
He should have never accepted the job in the first place. Now he has put me in a major bind because it is the week my tenants are gone and I have no one doing the job. I even bought all the supplies that
Louisville Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
told me to get...even though the list was not complete and wrong according to some other contractors I spoke to.
- Amy G.

I am helping my sister renovate a rental house that the tenants did a lot of damage to the rental house. She was very overwhelmed to say the least. I encouraged her to get several bids before choosing a roofer. We met with Mr.
Louisville Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
and was very impressed with him and his bid. He may not be the cheapest but quality counts in the long run. He gave her a quote that was very reasonable and if wood had to be replaced there would be an increase in price . The crew did have to replace wood on the house. The crew arrived approximately 7am and worked almost till dark . The roof looks great and the crew cleaned up the debree The crew took off two layers of shingles and did the job all in one day. We are very pleased with the outcome and we are using him in the future for other jobs that need to be done to this house to get it back in shape to rent again.
- debbie M.

I have only had talked with them with emails, I was told that do to the number of request that I would be put on a list for a future date. Given that I would prefer a refund and look for somebody else to do the work. I would be more than happy to response to another review based on either a real conversation or work getting done. I am sure they do fine work are they would not be on this list.
Louisville Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked

- Troy A.

All Mold Remediators in Louisville, KY

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!



A-Flood Control

PO Box 339

AAA Remediation Inc

580 Baldock Rd

Action Property Management LLC

PO Box 1354



Advantaclean of Northeast Louisville, KY

4704 Abercorne Terrace

All Solutions

411 Knobloch Ave.


1992 OLD STATE RD 44

Aqua Lock

1907 Production DR

Bluegrass Home Restorations

7002 Red Berry Ct

Bluegrass Services of Ky

PO Box 304
Mount Washington

Bone-Dry Waterproofing Inc

2529 Ridgemar Court

Burkheads Home Specialist

140 Cajun Ct

Carrell Rogers Carpet One

109 S Hurstbourne Parkway

Champion Waterproofing & Piering, LLC

406 Production Court

clean air plus

4202 Blackwood Ct

COIT Services Inc

2730 Crittenden Dr

Corporate Cleaning Solutions LLC

610 Oak Branch Rd

Crawlspace Doctor

120 S 15th St



E.L. Foust Company Inc

754 N Industrial Dr

Environmental Safety Technologies Inc

1815 Brownsboro Rd



Handy Helpers

349 Arlington

HGC llc

1604 Lake Shore circle

Home Design Expo Inc.

455 South 4th Street

HomeTeam Inspections

3505 Hedgewick Pl

Indiana United LLC

210 Robin Lynn Dr

J & R Construction Services Inc

633 West Main Street

Micro Analytics Inc

3310 C Gilmore Industrial Blvd


7609 140Th Pl NE

Mold Inspection & Testing Louisville KY

8219 Sheperdsville Rd.


2501 Mayes road suite #110

Moving Ahead Services LLC

35160 Topps Industrial Parkway


La Grange

Paul Davis Restoration

2689 Bardstown Rd

Paul Davis Restoration & Remodeling

945 S Floyd St

Precise Remodeling


Precision Dry of Kentucky, LLC

667 Old Brooks Hill Rd

Preventech Restoration & Remodeling

9276 Storage Way


1225 Bringham Dr

Protect Environmental

6211 Shepherdsville Rd

Purofirst Disaster Service

2251 Stanley Gault Pkwy

Rutledge Environmental Services

6102 Hitt Ln

Servpro of Bullitt and N Nelson Counties

5089 N Preston Hwy Suite#C

Servpro Of Oldham

PO BOX 606

Sherlock Homes Inspection

3901 East Hagan St

Slate Creek Contracting Services

1787 Peeled Oak Road

SporeTech Mold Investigations

2310 Windsor Forest Drive

The Basement Doctor

1504 B Magnolia Dr



Young Environmental Services

3926 Scenic Trail

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