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"I'd purchased the deal on Angie's List for $250 worth of blown-in cellulose insulation for $99.
came out and was able to give me" a quote quickly and answered all questions I had. It ended up being another $427 to finish up the attic to recommended levels as well as insulate the access hatch in the roof of my office. There were no issues on the day of the appointment, and they cleaned everything up great. I would definitely use
in the future if needed.

-Joshua A.

"Showed up at appointed time did the job with no fuss no
. Got me money's worth both on special deal and additional work.

-John E.

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Local Articles in Louisville

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

attic access door able to convert to room
Remodeling - General, Insulation

Wish you had more room in your home? Attics have room for you to convert into living space.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

Angie's Answers


If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.


There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".


Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  


Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.


As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Louisville


WIll not do evening or weekend quotes. Not a good first impression. Would not provide a provisional quote over the phone with the dimensions.
- Alan C.

He came and inspected our attic for insulation levels and said they were good. Our concern was one bedroom that is warmer than all the other rooms. He suggested and we agreed for him to build an 'apron' around the attic access staircase in the adjoining closet. He was prompt and professional, and did a nice neat job in the construction and installation. We would consult him again if necessary.
- Lynne E.

Was very satisfied. I learned a lot about energy efficiency. Have contracted with
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
to add blown-in insulation to our attic at a fair price and I have a list now of things I can do myself that will help considerably to make our old house more energy efficient.
- Mark B.

After inspecting my roof I was told that I did not need any additional insulation. I was extremely impressed by the honesty and integrity of the company. Most companies would just add insulation whether it was needed or not. If ever do need insulation
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
will be the company that I will call.

Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
called me to tell me he'd be about 15 minutes late due to caught in traffiic. He then arrived promptly. He and his co-worker got right to work. They put plastic sheeting down on my floors and provided padding in between the hose they used to blow in the insulation and my furniture ( just in case the hose rubbed against the furniture). The insulation was blown into the attic from a large truck parked in front of my house through a hose about 4 -5" in diameter. Noise inside the house was negligible while the work was going on...I could watch TV and talk on the phone without any noise interference. I would say the job took about 1.5 to 2 hours. They fixed the problem areas and blew in a very thick
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
of cellulose insulation. I was able to climb the ladder and see the finished job. I have a very thick
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
of insulation now....no longer can you see some exposed ductwork or water lines ( yes my old slab house sprang a leak several years ago and the water lines were rerouted to the attic....the plumber had covered some of the water lines with foam pipe insulation, but not all of them and some of the lines were laying on top the the existing insulation....it is a wonder that they hadn't frozen yet. Several of my neighbors had to have their water lines re-routed to the attic over the last few years as well and I will warn them that they need to have their insulation levels checked as well). I am looking forward to a more comfortable house this winter, lower utility bills, and less risk of water lines freezing.
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his co-worker were very professional, knowledgeable and I highly recommend them.
- Jaime R.

I feel disappointed by several things.
1. Level of care for house and clean up from their work. I asked specifically about whether I should cover/drape/move things and was told no. The first day I came home after they had been working and every possible surface was covered in dry wall/plaster dust. They had not covered anything before starting to cut into walls. Art work, linens, carpet...even my toothbrush was full of plaster dust. They also used my personal vacuum cleaner to try to clean up, which resulted in a clogged filter. Every time they have been here since, I have needed to clean up after them (handprints on walls and ceilings, plaster dust...).
2. Breakage. I have unfortunately found a couple of times when picture frames must have been knocked off walls during their work and were cracked. One was stuffed behind a door. They did not say anything to me. I live alone so there is really no one else to blame!
3. Miscommunication. The new system went in the attic, through a makeshift access door. They had said they would frame out the access door but never have. It has to be unscrewed every time. I later asked what I needed to do as far as filter changing, and they had installed a system where the filter is supposed to be changed every 1 month. They hadn't thought to discuss this with me (there are other choices).
4. It didn't work! The system was installed in the fall of 2014. Initially the cooling mechanism seemed to help (though might have been just the fan). In the winter, it did not seem to help much to heat the upstairs. By Spring of 2015, it was not working at all. Like something went horribly wrong with the wiring or something (according to the first workman, it was not cycling at all). I have had workmen out multiple times now. I now stay home from work whenever they are working since it has gone so poorly in the past, so I am missing work. It is supposedly fixed now. Overall, my electric bills were higher over the winter this year than the previous--so I am not sure I am really saving any despite all the changes and insulation.
The main person I have been working with seems overall nice and trying to be helpful. I believe he knows about all the things that have happened, though he generally sends out other people and has not been here himself. However, it has been a very frustrating experience overall. I have not been offered any compensation for all the stuff that has happened. I am calling the office Monday to discuss and might hopefully be able to have a more positive ending to this story. I am a single woman, so trying to deal with workmen is never a favorite thing, but I feel that so many negative things have happened that I need to stand up for myself since they are not offering anything.
- Bethany H.

Highly impressed with this provider. Quick response after purchase on Angie's list and easy phone set-up of appointment time. Insulation professional who came to my home was pleasant, thorough and professional. We were fortunate enough to not need insulation, but he did provide solid "do it yourself" tips on some areas we could save energy. Also kind enough to provide recommendation for HVAC providers. Would definitely recommend this group to others, happy I contacted them from Angie's List.
- Erin B.

LG&E had done an energy audit of my house and 2 recommendation were to apply additional insulation in the attic above living spaces and to install some type of insulation board on the kneewalls facing toward the garage, which is not insulated. This would help remedy some of the cold air flow from the garage into the living areas. Nick provided advice on how best to implement LG&E's recommendations. Nick did a very thorough job of inspecting my attic area and seemed to really understand the problems I have with air flow. He went into some pretty tight areas so he could get a complete picture of my existing insulation. He recommended applying spray foam to the kneewals and duct joints and spraying cellulose in the attic above living areas. I had the job scheduled originally in December when we had bad winter weather so
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
had to reschedule since foam has to be applied at a certain temperature to be effective. When the weather improved, I rescheduled the application for late morning. It was my understanding that
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
would do the spray foam first and the cellulose crew would come in after. When the foam guys didn't show up at the scheduled time, I called
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and they said that the crews were trying to catch up from the bad weather and were running late. I told the office I wanted to reschedule but that it was important for me to be notified if the scheduled slipped. The office was willing to schedule one day for foam and another day for cellulose but I was unwilling to do that - I wanted the job completed in one day. Even though I was scheduled a little later than I would have liked, the new schedule allowed both crews to finish their work on the same day. On the schedule day, the foam crew showed up ahead of time. They got to work and were done in a couple hours. They did a great job of cleanup - I hardly knew they had sprayed foam from what I could see in the garage. They were professional and very courteous. The cellulose crew showed up a couple hours later and, again, were very professional. The guy who was actually spraying the cellulose had to get into some really tight spaces but he did so while the other guy made sure there wasn't a big mess in my house or walls were damaged. I was really pleased with their efforts. The cost was a little high because of the spray foam but Nick explained they have a minimum $1000 for the foam application but I feel the foam guys gave me my money's worth looking at how they sprayed those kneewalls. They sprayed so that there is no air flow from the garage. This job has paid off already in my comfort level. When we had below 0 temperatures I stayed nice and toasty in my house at 70 degrees. That wasn't possible last year when temperatures also got below 0.
- Rita O.

Insulation Contractors in Louisville

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!



84 Lumber Company

10005 Dixie Hwy

A All Animal Control of Louisville, LLC

175 Tanyard Springs

A and S Contractors, LLC

333701 E.890 Rd.

A Assurance Construction Co

3937 Central Ave

AAA Contractors LLC

5917 Bardstown Rd.

AAA Pest Control

PO Box 206066

Action Pest Control Inc

320 Eagle Crest Dr.

Advanced Air Solutions

4949 Old Brownsboro Rd

Affordable Builders

522 Emery Rd

Aim Construction LLC

230 Northland Blvd

All Solutions

411 Knobloch Ave.

Allegiance Heating & Air

7201 Highway 150



American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

AN Roth Company LLC

749 E. Jefferson St.

Anthony Cunningham Construction

P.O. box 116

Architectural Builders

11503 Main St

Assurance Roofing

1600 Hialeah Ct

B K Construction


Beams Roofing & Contracting

4404 Twillingate Ln

Becht/Givens Service Experts

2999 Industrial Pkwy

Bone Dry Roofing & Masonry - Louisville

8130 New LaGrange Rd.

Bradford T. Newhall Construction Co.

2016 New Main Street

Brandon Warren - State Farm Insurance

12342 Shelbyville Rd Middletown Plaza

Building Performance Group

PO Box 19818

Burkheads Home Specialist

140 Cajun Ct


1300 W MAIN ST

CC DesignsLLC

213 Linda Dr

CDS Midwest Labor Solutions

117 W Jefferson St

Certified Handyman

3317 Stratford Ave

ck construction services

708 west woodlawn



Contracting Solutions, LLC

9413 Jonathan Pl

Coogle's Interiors

10000 Dixie hwy

Craftsmen Contractors

120 Kentucky Ave

Crawlspace Doctor

120 S 15th St

Crowley Service Company

330 Robert Burden Road


2017 Goshen Ln

Derby City Duct Cleaning, LLC.

PO Box 91573





Energy One

2011 Lake Point Way

Energy Savers LLC

12303 Dixie Hwy

Fackler Homes Inc

1504 Polo Fields Ct.

Finish Design Woodworking

2819 Sable Mill Road

Full Spectrum Construction Inc

12507 Brightfield Dr

Gisco Corp

531 S 15th St

Glare Control, Inc.

1200 Versailles Road


10301 Jefferson Street

GRB Design

1909 Production Drive

Green Star Home Remodeling

PO Box 91331



GT Drywall LLC

3401 Hardwood Forest Dr

Handy Hulk

515 moser road






PO Box 683

Hayden Home Specialists

128 Marie Ave

HKC Roofing & Construction

5061 Poplar Level Rd

Honest Home

804 E Market Street

HRC Roofing & Contracting

3754 Kahlert Ave.

Indiana United LLC

210 Robin Lynn Dr



Installation Solutions LLC

954 East Kentucky Street



J & R Construction Services Inc

633 West Main Street

Jackson Property Investments LLC

5509 Mae Court

Jenkins Industries

14 Muirfield Pl



Joe's Tree Trimming Hauling & More

13315 Meadowlawn Drive

John Toma



4706 Pinewood Rd

Ken Osborne Home Inspection Inc

2931 Rainbow Dr

Kentuckiana Exteriors Plus

2610 Emerald Lake Dr.

Lake Forest Living

4535 Biles Ct.



Lorah Contracting

5801 Moser Farm Rd.

Louisville Exteriors

6240 Old Lagrange Rd.

Louisville Handyman Inc

13000 Middletown Industrial Blvd

Louisville Spray Foam Insulation Inc

1535 Lytle St

Mastiff construction

5010 monticello ave

Matrix Construction LLC

1215 Manitau Ave





National Roofing Solutions

3011 Wirth Avenue

New Circle Mechanical NCM Services

PO Box 43397

Newlands Home Improvement

4311 Creek Bend Ct

Nick's Remodeling Service

6603 Applegates Ln

NV Home Remodeling LLC

5119 Invicta Dr

One Call Services, LLC

3420 Hillvale Road

Paul J Lilly Roofing

3456 Quarry Rd




PO BOX 36161

Prestige Roofing Company

1871 Slaughter Road

Pro Touch Contracting & Landscaping

2152 Crystal Dr
La Grange

Production Heating & Cooling Inc

111 S 18th St

Professional Handyman

4936 Forest Park Dr

R.B. Remodeling

4102 heather view rd

Rafael Solorzan

7518 Preston hwy

Riley Home Improvement

3400 Burkland Blvd


Coxs Creek

Rock Roofing

2610 Emerald Lake Dr


West Point

Rose Property Maint. & Const, LLC

6500 Fenwick Dr

Sexton Insulation & Gutters

11201 Plantside Dr

SK Construction

9226 Vevey Rd.


PO Box 991518

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Statewide Roofing & Restoration

824 University Woods Dr

Story Restorations

1626 Story Avenue

The Insulation Man

1028 E Oak St

Thomas Energy Solutions, LLC

3006 Sprowl Rd

TJ'S maintenance

4578 buds rd

Two Guys Guttering

1321 Lincoln Avenue


7613 Nottoway Circle


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Watts Your Project?

313 N. Bonner Ave.

We Can Do LLC

432 Kaelin Dr

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