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A
"Things went well. The crew got here around 9:00am and they were very cordial. After review of the areas to be insulated work commenced very promptly.The job was" completed professionally and in a timely manner. The spray foam is amazing. The temperature in the house stays very constant and very comfortable and my energy bills have decreased. I would highly recommend spray foam to anyone.

-michael K.

A
"
came out to look at my attic and to write a proposal for spraying foam on the inside deck of my roof.
was punctual" and professional. I sensed that he knew what he was doing when he crawled around an attic that is hard to get to because of vaulted ceilings. He explained how the spraying would be done and what the chemicals would be. He explained that in areas where he could not reach, he would construct a dam to seal off conditioned spaces from unconditioned spaces. He also explained that I would have to vacate the premises for a minimum of 24 hours because of the off-gas from the chemicals and that he would place heavy duty fans in the house to get air circulating. His proposal was very detailed and the price was very good. I had gotten an estimate from another company that was $1000 more than
. I decided not to do spray foam because of personal concerns about the chemicals and the price, while lower than another company, was higher than other types of insulation. If I were doing new construction, I would definitely have
spray and "envelope" around the house.

-Rita O.

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Local Articles in Louisville

snowy house

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Without proper insulation and venting in your attic, icicles can form on your eaves, leading to a damaging ice dam on your roof, says Neubecker. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Donna B. of Mendota Heights, Minn.)

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Angie's Answers

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Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in Louisville

A

Rating
The initial inspection and estimate went great. I felt absolutely no pressure to buy. The guys at
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
spent time teaching me about the crawl space and why the area under the house should be conditioned like the inside of the home. They even came back for a second time to answer additional questions without any confirmation that I would be hiring them to do the work.
The quality of the work was outstanding and the job was completed ahead of schedule. They determined my dryer vent was too clogged to clean and replaced it at no additional cost. They also moved the dryer vent and bricked up the hole left in the side of the house at no additional cost.
I have even seen increased efficiency with my heating. I used to keep my house at 68-70 degrees fahrenheit during the winter. I now keep it at 65 degrees fahrenheit and remain 100% comfortable. I would assume this is due to the fact that there is no longer cold air under the house that pulls heat away from the house. The crawl space is now heated and cooled the same as the inside of the house.
It's a dream to have a vapor
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
installed if you do any work under the house or have water shut-off's under the house. I can freely enter the crawl space (without it being excessively hot or cold), move around easily, and come out just as clean as I went in.
I will admit that the cost of the work was quite a bit more in comparison to other companies, but no one else was going to do anywhere near the amount of work that they did. I still believe the cost was more than fair for the quality of work that was performed.
Lastly, I would encourage anyone to ask for before and after pictures of the work these guys have done.
- Matt B.
A

Rating
This company is FABULOUS! Look no further folks - this company was so professional and did a great job! When I called for an estimate
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came to our home and explained the whole process to us. He pointed out all the areas that needed attention. He was very friendly and professional. We felt the price was very reasonable also.
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
told us what time they would arrive and as he stated, they were here at 8:30 am right on time. The workers were excellent and very knowledgable. Before they began the work, they went over everything they were going to do. They went to every extent to make the area clean putting plastic down to protect clothes and carpet since my entrance was in a bedroom closet.
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
stopped by twice to check on their progress. We are so happy with the work that was done and thankful that we picked
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
to do this work. Thank you
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
!


- Peggy K.
A

Rating
We got an estimate very quickly including discussing other options. At the appointment to do the work, they found that they house already had insulation in the walls, something that they couldn't have known without starting the work. Once they saw this, they explained that there wasn't really any option to complete the work. In a follow up phone call, this was confirmed. They didn't charge us anything for the time they spent. Although we didn't ultimately have any work done, I feel confident that
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
would do a good job.
- Brian L.
A

Rating
I got 3 estimates for closed cell spray foam insulation and the other 2 companies were $1,000 more than LSF - each rep explaining pretty much the same procedure. The basement room of approx 600 sq feet is in the process of becoming a rec room and had framing and roughed-in plumbing and electrical. Waterproofing trenches and a sump pump were installed several years ago. The walls are cinder block. I asked all quotes to be for for 2-3" of insulation. This company - I learned later - was in the process of changing hands and at first I was confused by the different company names and contacts when I did my research. It turned out that
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was the main contact and he was readily available by phone and always returned my calls and answered my questions. He took the time to explain the business situation to me.
A crew of 3 men came at noon and stayed until 8 pm. Two wore the hazmat suits and did the spraying while one stayed at the truck minding the machines and hoses. It seemed to be very complicated, hard work, involving 2 large, long hoses going into the building for 2 chemicals to be mixed together through the sprayers. I was told the fumes were dangerous but disappeared quickly and the windows and doors had to stay open overnight.
The next day when I went down to check, I saw just a few places that were less than 2 inches thick (2 small areas less than an inch) and called
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. He came to check and we discussed how to remedy it. Bringing back the truck, hoses, and workers seemed like an excessive step so I agreed to get a couple cans of spray foam and fill in where I wanted.
The other reason I rated a B on quality was the clean-up. Nothing was covered so I had foam on all the outlets, some on the floor and anything that was on the floor, even the sump pump. The workers did take time after spraying to scrape foam off some of the studs and rafters, but there was a lot left for me to do, including vacuuming up the scrapings with a shop vac. I have no other experience to compare and it was not an extreme hardship - just unexpected work.

- Janice W.
A

Rating
The salesman, Nick, arrived on time for the estimate. He knew his business and provided an estimate in a timely manner. The Foam Crew arrived on time, went right to their work and completed the first phase by mid-afternooon. The only problem was a few drops of foam that fell from an intake vent onto a bedroom rug. The crew (with Nick's review) did not attempt to clean the foam … but rather called in a professional cleaner who managed to clean up the spots to our satisfaction.
Two days later, a crew arrived (again on time) to complete the job by blowing in the cellulose insulation.
While it is too soon to evaluate the real savings of the work performed. I can report our furnace does not work nearly as often to maintain the desired temperature and (a real bonus) the furnace noise has dramatically reduced since adding the foam seal coating.
- Jack A.
A

Rating
My wife and I decided to have extra insulation added to our home prior to the summer months. We noticed the garage and
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
room on the south facing walls were getting way to hot and felt it would be worth the cost in electricity savings to add some insulation, The technicians were great. Arrived on time, clean, didn't try to up the estimate when they saw we lived in a nice neighborhood. Job was done efficiently and they didn't leave a mess after they left. With kids and grandkids running around, I am always thankful when contractors are able to work with us.
- Barry L.
A

Rating
I was very pleased overall with the professionalism of Attic Experts, i.e. promptly returning my calls, showing up on time, and understanding my needs as a homeowner. In the end I did not use Attic Experts, but I also did not use anyone else. At this time I felt that I would not have additional insulation blown in to my crawlspace simply b/c my wife and I decided to make renovations to our 2nd floor which would include changes to our roof line and it just simply didn't make sense at this time to have the insulation put in. However, we will choose Attic Experts when the time comes!
- eron E.
A

Rating
We were a little reluctant to deal with them because they are relatively new, but we are glad that we did. The price was right for the amount of work that they did for us and they left the house cleaner than it was before they started the job. The man who owns the company knows how important it is to make the customer #1. If you are in the
Louisville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
for insulating you home, don't look any farther, they do good work!
- Christopher W.

All Insulation Contractors in Louisville, KY

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

31-W INSULATION CO INC

195 HAMILTON CT
Louisville

84 Lumber Company

10005 Dixie Hwy
Louisville

A and S Contractors, LLC

333701 E.890 Rd.

A Assurance Construction Co

3937 Central Ave
Louisville

AAA Contractors LLC

5917 Bardstown Rd.
Louisville

AAA Pest Control

PO Box 206066
Louisville

ABC Roofing Co Inc

8499 E US Hwy 36

Action Pest Control Inc

2301 S Green River Rd

Advanced Air Solutions

4949 Old Brownsboro Rd
Louisville

ADVANCED INSULATION INC

PO Box 597
Simpsonville

Affordable Builders

522 Emery Rd
Louisville

Aim Construction LLC

230 Northland Blvd

All Solutions

411 Knobloch Ave.

Allegiance Heating & Air

7201 Highway 150

ALVARADO'S DRYWALL & FINISHING

9900 SHELBYVILLE RD
Louisville

AMERICAN BASEMENT SOLUTIONS

1992 OLD STATE RD 44

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

AN Roth Company LLC

749 E. Jefferson St.
Louisville

Architectural Builders

11503 Main St
Middletown

B K Construction

Louisville

Beams Roofing & Contracting

12204 Shelbyville Rd
Louisville

Becht/Givens Service Experts

2999 Industrial Pkwy

BLANDS INSULATION INC

461 Walter Reed Rd
Hodgenville

Bone Dry Roofing & Masonry - Louisville

8130 New LaGrange Rd
Louisville

Bradford T. Newhall Construction Co.

2016 New Main Street
Louisville

Brandon Warren - State Farm Insurance

12342 Shelbyville Rd Middletown Plaza
Louisville

Building Performance Group

PO Box 19818
Louisville

Burkheads Home Specialist

140 Cajun Ct
Louisville

BURNETT'S INSULATION INC

6189 RINEYVILLE RD
Rineyville

CARDINAL INDUSTRIAL INSULATION

1300 W MAIN ST
Louisville

Carrell Rogers Carpet One

109 S Hurstbourne Parkway
Louisville

CDS Midwest Labor Solutions

117 W Jefferson St
Georgetown

Certified Handyman

3317 Stratford Ave
Louisville

ck construction services

708 west woodlawn

COMFORT FOAM BY X-PAND

4121 PRESTON HWY
Louisville

COMFORTER ENERGY MANAGEMENT CO

148 DEERBROOK LN
Elizabethtown

Craftsmen Contractors

120 Kentucky Ave
Lexington

Crawlspace Doctor

120 S 15th St
Louisville

DECKS UNLIMITED

2017 Goshen Ln
Goshen

Derby City Duct Cleaning, LLC.

PO Box 91573
Louisville

DIXIE INDUSTRIAL INSULATION

418 PRODUCTION CT
Louisville

E.L. Foust Company Inc

754 N Industrial Dr

E.R.A. LLC

4700 DOVER ROAD
Louisville

ELZY INSULATION CO

10615 W MANSLICK RD
Fairdale

Energy One

2011 Lake Point Way
Louisville

Energy Savers

PO Box 58126
Louisville

ENERGY SAVINGS SYSTEMS

1529 CHARTRES ST

Fackler Homes Inc

1504 Polo Fields Ct.
Louisville

Friddle and Son Licensed General Contractors LLC

6309 Upper river rd.
Harrods Creek

Friddle and Son Licensed General Contractors LLC

6309 Upper River rd.
Harrods Creek

Full Spectrum Construction Inc

12507 Brightfield Dr
Louisville

Gisco Corp

531 S 15th St
Louisville

Glare Control, Inc.

1200 Versailles Road
Lexington

GRABER INSEALATORS OF LOUISVILLE

10301 Jefferson Street
Louisville

GRB Design

1909 Production Drive

Green Star Home Remodeling

PO Box 91331
Louisville

Green Star Plus, LLC

105 Industrial Way

Green Tech Industries LLC DBA Inject-It Foam

138 Production Court
Louisville

GRIBBINS INSULATION CO INC

4537 POPLAR LEVEL RD
Louisville

GT Drywall LLC

3401 Hardwood Forest Dr
Louisville

Handy Hulk

515 moser road

HARTLAGE HOME IMPROVEMENT

5218 VENUS DR
Louisville

HARTLAND INSULATION INC

4621 PROXIMITY DR
Louisville

HAUS ROOFING

PO Box 683

Hayden Home Specialists

128 Marie Ave
Louisville

HKC Roofing & Construction

5061 Poplar Level Rd
Louisville

Home Inspection Inc (Owner Ken Osborne)

2931 Rainbow Dr
Louisville

Howard's Pro-Touch Construction LLC

402 St. Johns Road
Elizabethtown

HRC Roofing & Contracting

3754 Kahlert Ave.
Louisville

Indiana United LLC

210 Robin Lynn Dr

INSLATION MAN

3712 BISHOP LN
Louisville

Installation Solutions LLC

954 East Kentucky Street
Louisville

INSULATION MAN INC

1899 PRINCETON DR
Louisville

INSULATION TECHNOLOGIES INC

2007 BUTTON LN
La Grange

Integrity 1st Roofing

3675 Hauck Road

J & R Construction Services Inc

633 West Main Street
Lexington

Jackson Property Investments LLC

5509 Mae Court
Louisville

Jenkins Industries

14 Muirfield Pl
Louisville

Jim Spalding Construction

2840 Oakwood Drive
Bardstown

JOE JAMES CONSTRUCTION CO INC

4605 ILLINOIS AVE
Louisville

John Toma

Louisville

LANHAM INSULATION INC

13127 MIDDLETOWN IND BLVD A
Louisville

Louisville Exteriors

6240 Old Lagrange Rd.
Crestwood

Louisville Handyman Inc

13000 Middletown Industrial Blvd
Louisville

Louisville Spray Foam Insulation Inc

1535 Lytle St.
Louisville

Lynx Remodeling, Inc.

1803 Sterling Oaks Drive

M&P Construction

1840 Tyler Pkwy
Louisville

National Roofing Solutions

3011 Wirth Avenue
Louisville

New Circle Mechanical NCM Services

PO Box 43397
Louisville

Nick's Remodeling Service

Vandre Ave
Louisville

One Call Services, LLC

3420 Hillvale Road
Louisville

Paul J Lilly Roofing

3456 Quarry Rd

PERFORMANCE EXTERIOR

2400 ARNOLDTOWN WOODS RD
Louisville

PERSONAL TOUCH

PO BOX 36161
Louisville

Production Heating & Cooling Inc

111 S 18th St
Louisville

Professional Handyman

4936 Forest Park Dr
Louisville

Real Deal Restoration

1902 embassy square blvd.

Renovations Plus LLC

424 W County Line Rd

Residential Concepts INC.

1529 Nicholasville rd
Lexington

RGV Contracting

8144 S State Rte 48

Riley Home Improvement

3400 Burkland Blvd
Shepherdsville

ROBINSON'S INSULATION

2431 HOBBS LN
Coxs Creek

Rock Roofing

2610 Emerald Lake Dr

ROGER MUDD ROOFING & GUTTERING

918 KATHERINE STATION RD
West Point

Sexton Insulation & Gutters

11201 Plantside Dr
Louisville

SK Construction

9226 Vevey Rd.
Louisville

SKIDMORE INSULATION CORP

PO Box 991518
Louisville

Statewide Roofing & Restoration

824 University Woods Dr

STOCK BUILDING SUPPLIES

150 HUNTER STATION RD

Story Restorations

1626 Story Avenue
Louisville

The Attic Experts Of Kentuckiana

10402 BAY POINTE CIRCLE
Louisville

The Gutter Magician Inc

11481 Blankenbaker Access Dr
Louisville

The Insulation Man

1028 E Oak St
Louisville

THE ORMEROD COMPANY INC

14506 OLDHAM ACRES RD
Prospect

THERMOSPRAY OF LEXINGTON

5751 BRIAR HILL ROAD
Lexington

Thomas Energy Solutions, LLC

3006 Sprowl Rd
Louisville

THOMPSON SIDING

940 CHARLIE NORRIS RD
Richmond

TJ'S maintenance

4578 buds rd

W H DAVIS INSULATION CO

7613 Nottoway Circle
Louisville

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Watts Your Project?

313 N. Bonner Ave.
Louisville

We Can Do LLC

432 Kaelin Dr
Louisville

WRIGHT INSULATION SVC

1441 FIELDS LN
Simpsonville

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