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"Everything went better than I expected it to. One complication (which is purely just a nature of the material they used) was that my fiance and I (heretofore referred" to as "we") had to essentially evacuate the house for 24 hours after installation, which was really only a problem for our cats. They (the cats) sure seemed to enjoy the cat hotel they stayed at, but that's probably outside the scope of a review for an insulation company. Another point that's worth mentioning is that these guys (the insulation guys, not the cats) have a minimum price for spray foam, so if you are getting less than like $1500 worth, they won't charge any less than that. This ended up making us do the basement as well, even though we were only trying to insulate our attic. Basically we had to choose between paying their minimum, which would have been a lot more than the insulation was worth, or pay a lot more than that for a lot more insulation. In the end, even though the attic would have cost just a little over $1000, we spent about $2500 to do all of the things. That definitely hurt, but at least we have some super great insulation everywhere now. Compared to other businesses, these guys have really reasonable prices, so any complaints about price aren't really directed at these guys in particular. The process was pretty painless, otherwise. We started by moving all of the junk we have in the basement out of the way. I mean, it's a basement, where else are we going to put our junk? We can't just pile it all in our bedroom or just out in the yard like we live in Indiana or something. The dudes then covered everything in plastic to protect all of our precious junk (I was super concerned about all that junk). Then we hung out at the coffee shop around the corner while they got to work with their fancy equipment. I kind of wish I could have at least watched them work, because it's probably super cool, but I would have just gotten in the way. I expected the whole thing to take all afternoon, and we planned a whole thing around that concept, but I got a call only a few hours later that they were just wrapping things up. I'm not about to complain that they got the whole thing done too quickly, but we were on our way to Schlotzky's when we had to turn around to meet up with the guys back at the house, and I was really looking forward to getting some Schlotzky's. All in all, I don't really have any complaints about the whole thing (but only because "did they stop you from going to Schlotzky's" isn't one of the criteria that Angie's List rates businesses on). Seriously, though, the Schlotzky's is way on the other side of town where I usually am never at so I don't often get a to eat there. In conclusion, it was kind of expensive but super quick and easy. Not a single piece of junk was harmed, and the cats had a pretty exciting 24 hours. We ended up going to Schlotzky's a couple weeks later, so basically everything is right with the world.

-Shauvon M.

"I bought an Angie’s List deal ($59) for Energy Evaluation & Thermal Camera Scan including $150 credit for any work I wanted done. My house is over 100" years old and over my 24 years in it, I have focused n making it as energy efficient as possible. I was curious to know what more could be done. came with his camera, evaluated my house and helpfully gave me a list of things I could do to improve energy savings. It was interesting following him around with his camera as he showed me where the cold was coming in. I had cold around window pulleys and outside wall outlets He showed me how to caulk under windows & baseboards. He also suggested I add more insulation in the basement laundry area and put new weather stripping on my front door; He sent an estimate to blow in more insulation in the attic and exterior upstairs walls. It was right around $1000 minus the $150 credit included on the Deal.

-Janice W.

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Local Articles in Louisville

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

foundation installation

Insulating the outside of your foundation can help lower energy bills and keep your house warmer in winter.

Radiant barrier in attic

HVAC systems work more efficiently with the addition of a reflective barrier as part of your attic insulation.

Angie's Answers


Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Louisville


They were contacted by the company I hired to do my attic insulation. The other company did not do spray foam but recommended it for the band joists. There was a miscommunication on the time they were to arrive, as I was told something else the night before (from my original contractor--I never spoke with until they showed up). ...More
and two people came on a truck and spent about an hour and a half. It involved going over and around a lot of ductwork, and the foam is obviously visible in my unfinished basement. However, I thought they did a fine job. I didn't have a lot of communication with him before, during, or after the project.
The price was higher than the line item for band joists from another contractor I contacted for foam insulation for the whole house (about $500 there), but the other company also had a minimum for bringing the truck out that was higher than what I paid .
- Jamie M.

I contact . They got back to me I think the next day and set up an appointment. The day before, I received a reminder call for the appointment. At the time of the appointment, they were a no-show. Someone showed up an hour later and claimed to my wife that he had the record for the later time and claimed to my wife that the appointment ...More was for the later time. Would still have been 20 minutes late had he been right. We did not obtain a quote from them.
- Jamie M.

Someone came out to go over our house and make recommendations. He was nice and seemed to have a good bit of knowledge. However, it also seemed clear that he was a salesman and not someone who would actually be performing or supervising the work, which turned me off.
I ended up going with Gisco for a traditional insulation system rather than ...More spray foam. In part this was because I didn't quite trust foam being sprayed everywhere, and in part because I got a better feel for the representative of the other company, and he oversaw the work.
However, the price was good for , and we did end up paying another company a good bit to spray our band joists anyway, which of course would have been cheaper if we had do everything. There's a minimum charge they have for a job site ($1500), so it makes sense to do a lot at once if you can.
- Jamie M.

was immediately responsive when I first contacted him. He said he would give me a call the next day, but did not. Then, when I followed up with him, he was responsive, but I wasn't able to give him my attention. When we were able to get a time together, he spent a good deal of time walking around and ...More pointing out issues and making recommendations for what is worth fixing and what was not. I felt during this time that he had a good understanding of his field and could explain it well. was on site on and off when the work was performed over two days.
Because it took two days, I did get to check out the work during the night and thought a lot of attention had been given to installing the foam board on the side attics. He had my wife inspect the work before it was all sealed up, and she was satisfied as well. Now, all I can see are the sealed access panels, so it's hard to know what it looks like inside. For the results, I trusted to do what would yield a good result, but we'll see when the weather turns colder how it holds up. From a cosmetic standpoint, it looks like how I would have expected a good job to have been done.
We had a bad experience with one of 's employees, who was not communicating well and seemed to be contradicting what had told us. He apparently then quit the morning of the second day of our installation, which pushed back the start time a little bit that morning because had to come to our house and do some of the work. Everything went fine beyond that, and I don't otherwise know what the issue was.
I was happy with the experience. also said we should spray the band joists with foam, which he doesn't do, and arranged for another company to come do it for us. There was a miscommunication on the time that morning they would arrive, but I don't know whose fault that was, so I can't fault for it.
- Jamie M.

I am often cynical when it comes to service companies, so I need to say up front that few have impressed me like Corporation. and his team are truly a class act: honorable, dependable, and fair.....above reproach.

I purchased a $67 coupon on Angie's List for $150 worth of services ...More from Corporation. Response was immediate. , the owner, contacted me and set up an appt for the thermal scan (about 1 hour). He inspected my home from top to bottom, making suggestions on what I could do to save on energy costs. Tips included caulking around baseboards, replacing worn weather stripping around door frames, using Great Stuff along garage wall and under sinks where pipes come through exterior walls. I followed every bit of advice (cost: $15) and the improvement was immediate!
suggested attic insulation (cellulose) My total cost was $550 ($700 minus the $150 coupon I had purchased). The attic space is about 40.5' X 23'.
Insulation was scheduled for Friday morning, 7/17/15. and arrived punctually. Both were professional and personable. They explained what they would do, how they would do it, and how long it would take. The explanation was spot on. They wore shoe covers to protect our flooring and quietly focused on their task. After they finished, everything was left neat and tidy. The only way we knew they had been there was that our second floor was now the same temperature as our first floor!
and his team at Corporation came through with shining colors for us, yet I suspect that this is how they treat all of their customers. They deliver a great service at a fair price. What more could you ask for?
- Hilary D.

I'd purchased the deal on Angie's List for $250 worth of blown-in cellulose insulation for $99. came out and was able to give me a quote quickly and answered all questions I had. It ended up being another $427 to finish up the attic to recommended levels as well as insulate the access hatch in the roof of my office. ...More There were no issues on the day of the appointment, and they cleaned everything up great. I would definitely use in the future if needed.
- Joshua A.

Showed up at appointed time did the job with no fuss no . Got me money's worth both on special deal and additional work.
- John E.

WIll not do evening or weekend quotes. Not a good first impression. Would not provide a provisional quote over the phone with the dimensions.
- Alan C.

Insulation Contractors in Louisville

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!



84 Lumber Company

10005 Dixie Hwy

A All Animal Control of Louisville, LLC

175 Tanyard Springs

A and S Contractors, LLC

333701 E.890 Rd.

A Assurance Construction Co

3937 Central Ave

AAA Contractors LLC

5917 Bardstown Rd.

AAA Pest Control

PO Box 206066

Action Pest Control Inc

320 Eagle Crest Dr.

Advanced Air Solutions

4949 Old Brownsboro Rd

Affordable Builders

522 Emery Rd

Aim Construction LLC

230 Northland Blvd

All Solutions

411 Knobloch Ave.

Allegiance Heating & Air

7201 Highway 150



American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

AN Roth Company LLC

749 E. Jefferson St.

Anthony Cunningham Construction

P.O. box 116

Architectural Builders

11503 Main St

Arielle Contracting Services

811 S 2nd St

Beams Roofing & Contracting

10370 Bluegrass Parkway

Becht/Givens Service Experts

2999 Industrial Pkwy

Bone Dry Roofing & Masonry - Louisville

8130 New LaGrange Rd.

Bradford T. Newhall Construction Co.

2016 New Main Street

Brandon Warren - State Farm Insurance

12342 Shelbyville Rd Middletown Plaza

Building Performance Group

PO Box 19818

Burkheads Home Specialist

140 Cajun Ct


1300 W MAIN ST

CC DesignsLLC

213 Linda Dr

CDS Midwest Labor Solutions

117 W Jefferson St

Certified Handyman

3317 Stratford Ave

ck construction services

708 west woodlawn





Contracting Solutions, LLC

9413 Jonathan Pl

Coogle's Interiors

10000 Dixie hwy

Craftsmen Contractors

1200 N Limestone

Crawlspace Doctor

120 S 15th St

Crowley Service Company

330 Robert Burden Road


2017 Goshen Ln

Derby City Duct Cleaning, LLC.

PO Box 91573





Elbert Construction Inc

10200 Forest Green Blvd

Energy One

2011 Lake Point Way

Energy Savers LLC

12303 Dixie Hwy

Fackler Homes Inc

1504 Polo Fields Ct.

Finish Design Woodworking

2819 Sable Mill Road

Full Spectrum Construction Inc

12507 Brightfield Dr

Gisco Corp

531 S 15th St


10301 Jefferson Street

GRB Design

1909 Production Drive

Green Star Home Remodeling

PO Box 91331



GT Drywall LLC

3401 Hardwood Forest Dr

Handy Hulk

515 moser road






PO Box 683

Hayden Home Specialists

128 Marie Ave

HKC Roofing & Construction

5061 Poplar Level Rd

Home Value Restoration

8515 Zionsville Road

Honest Home

804 E Market Street

HRC Roofing & Contracting

3754 Kahlert Ave.

Indiana United LLC

210 Robin Lynn Dr



Installation Solutions LLC

954 East Kentucky Street



J & R Construction Services Inc

633 West Main Street

Jackson Property Investments LLC

5509 Mae Court

Jenkins Industries

14 Muirfield Pl



Joe's Tree Trimming Hauling & More

13315 Meadowlawn Drive

John Toma



4706 Pinewood Rd

Ken Osborne Home Inspection Inc

2931 Rainbow Dr

Kentuckiana Exteriors Plus

2610 Emerald Lake Dr.

Lake Forest Living

4535 Biles Ct.



Lorah Contracting

5801 Moser Farm Rd.

Louisville Exteriors

6240 Old Lagrange Rd.

Louisville Handyman Inc

13000 Middletown Industrial Blvd

Louisville Spray Foam Insulation Inc

1643 Portland Ave.

Mastiff construction

5010 monticello ave

Matrix Construction LLC

1215 Manitau Ave





Mr. Roof of Louisville

2304 Ralph Ave.

National Roofing Solutions

3011 Wirth Avenue

New Circle Mechanical NCM Services

PO Box 43397

Newlands Home Improvement

4311 Creek Bend Ct

Nick's Remodeling Service

6603 Applegate Ln

NV Home Remodeling LLC

5119 Invicta Dr

One Call Services, LLC

3420 Hillvale Road

Paul J Lilly Roofing

3456 Quarry Rd




PO BOX 36161

Phoenix Remodeling, LLC

2907 Antone Pkwy

Prestige Roofing Company

1871 Slaughter Road

Pro Touch Contracting & Landscaping

2152 Crystal Dr
La Grange

Production Heating & Cooling Inc

111 S 18th St

Professional Handyman

4936 Forest Park Dr

R.B. Remodeling

4102 heather view rd

Rafael Solorzan

7518 Preston hwy

Riley Home Improvement

3400 Burkland Blvd


Coxs Creek

Rock Roofing

2610 Emerald Lake Dr


West Point

Rose Property Maint. & Const, LLC

6500 Fenwick Dr

Sexton Insulation & Gutters

11201 Plantside Dr

SK Construction

9226 Vevey Rd.


PO Box 991518

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Statewide Roofing & Restoration

824 University Woods Dr

Story Restorations

1626 Story Avenue

The Community House-Spital LLC

1861 Berry Blvd

The Insulation Man

1028 E Oak St

Thomas Energy Solutions, LLC

3006 Sprowl Rd

TJ'S maintenance

4578 buds rd

Two Guys Guttering

1321 Lincoln Avenue


7613 Nottoway Circle


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Watts Your Project?

313 N. Bonner Ave.

We Can Do LLC

432 Kaelin Dr


PO Box 405

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