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"I originally contacted and Consulting by seeing them listed in other places online including Angies List. Once I called them I found them" to be friendly and convenient and easy to communicate with. I asked them to come out because I had pressing leak issues that I had not addressed previously and the rains caught me again by surprise. I had to take immediate action and they accommodated me. Once they came out they used their infrared camera and detected where the leaks were coming from and did what they called water intrusion investigation which I now understand much better thanks to their explanation. Once that investigation was done I felt comfortable with hiring them and proceeding with the repair. The repair was consistent with what other people had suggested to us. However they came in and handled the entire project. They found the leaks remediated the water damaged areas and got rid of the mold. Even after everything was sealed up they then water tested it to show me that everything was now corrected which I really appreciated. Nobody had suggested that in the past and we thought that was a great idea. Finally doing everything from start to finish they rebuilt all of the drywall and painted my home leaving it even better than it was to begin with. The best thing I can say about them is that they return phone calls and they followed through for us. They explained the details every step of the way and we are very satisfied. We would highly recommend them to anybody.

-Arielle A.

"They were able to send someone out that same day to provide a quote and started work right away. and crew were quick, efficient, and very" polite. The job was quickly completed to my complete satisfaction.

-joann P.

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Local Articles in Los Angeles

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Mold Removal and Remediation

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

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Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Los Angeles


I requested for to assess some water damage at my house. I was nervous about the possibility of mold and the cost of remediation and was somewhat hesitant about hiring a consultant that does both testing and remediation, but Absolute had so many good reviews that I decided to give them a try. got stuck ...More in traffic coming to my house and was late but kept in communication regarding his ETA and he waived the consultation fee as a result (and was very apologetic). After inspecting the damaged areas, gave me thorough advice regarding how to clean and seal the areas myself, and what products to use, saving me a lot of money. I felt very relieved after the consult and appreciated 's helpfulness and time (which he provided for no charge). Even if I had paid for consultation, it would have been worth it for the advice and peace of mind.
- Michael S.

After encountering an unpleasant, moldy smell that my husband and I tracked down to one area of our house we found ourselves at a loss to know what to do next... Turns out, our call to Absolute was 'Absolutely' (yes - pun intended there) the best thing we could have done.
They were so incredibly customer-service oriented from start ...More to finish. It was super easy to schedule a time for the inspector to come and take a look. On the initial inspection, the source of the wetness was identified and they even offered some really helpful suggestions to help stop to the leaking and reduce the overall moisture in the area while we worked with our AC guy to correct the originating problem and scheduled the necessary repairs. Throughout every step of the process the folks at Absolute were truly outstanding.
Once the work got under way it was fascinating to see how they set up what felt like a true hermitically sealed area to contain any possible mold contaminants. Although watching them suit up to remove the moldy materials was a little frightening (not THEM - but the fact that something that dangerous can just pop up in your house! Who Knew?!), it was definitely reassuring to see how careful they were and to know how incredibly professional and thorough they were with everything.
After allowing the space to completely dry, they then rebuilt sections of the wall that had been removed, complete with fresh drywall and paint. it looks AMAZING! The two men who completed the work were so professional and pleasant and I just can't say enough great things about these folks.
I'm probably not be a typical "Angie's List-er"... Most of the time, I tend to use it as a resource-only and, quite honestly, have never taken the time to write out a review here, so this is a first for me. But, having experienced such incredible service with these guys, I really had to let everyone know. Mold remediation is not something you ever hope or plan to have to deal with but knowing that the process can be as easy and as pleasant as this one was is just amazingly reassuring.
Thank you and Consulting! You are THE BEST!!!!!
- Dana D.

My phone call was returned promptly and we were able to book an appointment within a couple of days of my call. The inspector was very thorough and provided a good referral service for mold remediates, if we needed them. The test results came back a few days after the inspection. In all, it was a very professional operation and we had ...More a good experience.
- Christine L.

Pretty well overall. Things took longer and cost more than estimated, but I don't know any major rehab that does not. All additional charges were discussed and explained before commencing. was very good at keeping on top of things and provided terrific design advice.
- christopher D.

I had a leak in the roof above the bathroom. Water came down the walls and the ceiling dripped into the toilet also. Called Israel to schedule an appointment came the next day. Samples were taken to test for mold. I requested also to test for asbestos also since the house was at least 90 years old. Samples for mold and asbestos were taken. The ...More lab report came back a day later. Mold present, asbestos was not present. I was very appreciative that Israel responded so quickly and used a lab that was through and quick.. He sent complete copies of the report for both tests. When remediation was complete he returned the next day, Sunday, and took another set of samples and I had the lab report back by Tuesday. The test was negative, no more mold. I waited 2 weeks for a bill. I finally had to call and asked what I owed and could I please have a bill sent. laughed. She said people don't call asking for a bill. She said she would send me a bill and then I could pay by check or credit card. I asked if I could pay right then. She laughed again and took my payment. I always try to use family businesses and so far I have not been disappointed. The bills included testing before and after and the cost of the lab work. I will definitely use them again if I need their services, which I hope does not happen. I have not hesitation recommending them.
- Noel A.

A+ experience with Absolute!
About a month ago (after a serious rain storm by LA standards), I discovered a significant leak in my bathroom. Not only was water rushing into the house through a light fixture, but I also noticed a significant amount of water in the heating ducts beneath the floor. After frantically calling around for help, I came ...More across Absolute. The second I spoke with , I was immediately put at ease. He agreed that I had an urgent problem, carefully explained the process we would go through, had a team to my house the same day (a Sunday no less), and personally came to my house to look over the situation. Within a week, he and his team repaired a section of my roof, dried out the ceiling and four walls, replaced a section of the heating duct, and inspected and repaired many failing window and door frames. He treated my house as if it were his, never made any decisions without a prior conversation, and the final bill was exactly as he stipulated. There could not have been a better ending to a stressful situation.
- Matthew M.

I cannot say that this job went well. The owner, , is a very good salesman. He was the highest bidder. He promised great attention to detail and a thorough and white gloved handling of the situation. He explained that he was more expensive because others offered incomplete bids. I asked him in detail what he would provide for ...More the bid cost. I went back to the other bidders and asked them to rebid the project and based on their revised projected costs he was still $2,000 higher than the others. I went back to him and explained that it seemed that he would offer superior service but that the price difference was not justifiable, at which point he lowered the cost by $1,000 and although he was still $1,000 higher, I presumed he was the better candidate for the job.
The job was to entail addressing a flooded kitchen with what he called heavy mold, at least some of it toxic, in the floorboards and cabinets. He promised that his team would work to preserve the parts of the kitchen that seemed unaffected and at the very least would keep all of the hardware and keep information regarding the layout of the cabinets so that they could be replicated exactly. The location is an architectural home and a lease. The cabinets were all custom and it was very important that they be rebuilt exactly as they were before the flooding. Additionally, his staff was to help wipe down each item that could be saved coming out of the kitchen and essentially do the packing part of the moving out of the kitchen. I let them know that there would not be electricity and was told that they had a generator if they needed it and that it would not be a problem. I left a deposit check and they got started.
I never saw again after he walked off with the deposit check. The attention to detail never happened. The team which he left behind, although friendly fellows, definitely needed a supervisor. I stayed with them for a few days and then had to leave as I now live 6 hours away, and completing this job, with its various stages of repair, is the only thing that is keeping me from completing my move and I have to be present for a full time job. In the time that I was there I saw that the wiping of down of items from the kitchen with a mold removing agent was spotty and the packing was clumsy, at best. Sure, its nice that they offered to do it I suppose, and that they brought packing materials, but essentially I am paying for those packing materials-with a markup mind you- and the guys are not skilled at packing at all, which could have left my items damaged or broken. It would have been more appropriate to keep this "service" off the bill and to ask me to hire separately for that or to do it myself. Furthermore, while I was still there, they began to tear out the cabinets and throw away the hardware as well. Had I not been there they would have been dumped. I had to ask them to go through massive bags of demolition which were tied up to be hauled away.
There was no communication of what had been promised me to the staff who was actually going to do the work. Furthermore, the "staff" admitted to me that they were just subs even though they with frequently. So apparently the difference in price between what he actually paid these guys and what he collected himself as a fee to get them the job, was purely that, as again there was no supervision involved.
I departed as they told me they had the rest under control and we planned a date for my return. I confirmed before leaving my new home with his "staff" that they were ready for me and they said I could arrive 2 days later, that the floors were still drying.
But when I arrived they still needed three more days and no one had updated me. So now, I'm missing work, waiting for them to get started again,and have to stay at a hotel,or with friends or in the house's side unit which is essentially a storage place with no electricity because they didn't update the timeline with me even though they knew how far away I was coming from. I did all of the above. I'm pretty sure they got another job and were working on that job while putting me on hold. I asked if it was ok to go into the main house to retrieve mail and was told "No"- that it was better to wait until a final cleanup job was done. When the fourth day was passing and it had reached later afternoon, I departed, locking the house. I had wasted an entire work week ( its a day of driving each way), put more than 650 miles on my car, wasted money on a hotel and gas, and had inconvenienced my friends. I had to get back. I had arrived thinking I would spend the a day or two, release a check and head right back. Not quite.
On the day I returned they were already finishing up as I had a neighbor hide a key for them to start as I wanted to make sure they would be done while I was there. My drive was slower than I hoped and I was stuck in traffic and I notified them that If they finished before I got to the house they could leave and meet me at the end of the day for a final review and final payment.
When we met at the end of that day, the lead guy was not there. They had left earlier and he did not feel like returning. I did the walk through with two other fellows who said they didn't know if the job was truly finished, that I would need to talk to the gentleman who did not show up. They took pictures of the areas of concern and said that they would text or email them to him and get a response and that he could meet the next day. I did not hear from him that night or the next morning. I needed to leave. Because I was leaving, I had issued a check and left the key with a housekeeper who could meet if more work would have to be done to complete the job. The lead guy did not respond to the pics and say that the work was done, wanted to go back to the house, and agreed to meet with my old housekeeper a couple days later. I would pay her to be there that day. On that day, she was late. He was impatient and left without ever letting me know that she had not showed up on time, texting me as he was driving off that I would have to now contact the original contractor for any concerns. I sent an email to the contractor and he did not respond. So I didn't clear the check. Guess who popped up? Suddenly he was available, saying that what was left could be completed by the next contractor when that person was installing new floors. When I protested, he simply sent me a certificate of completion and tried to make me look like a complete deadbeat. Its true that this disaster has been an unexpected financial and that I am making financial choices right now that I would rather not be making, but to make this out to be an issue of my finances is disingenuous.
Let me add, that when I did the final walk though with the two gentleman, what I found was a kitchen gutted, not remediated. Now, it could be that the mold did indeed spread everywhere. But for someone who advertises on Angie's List as a full time mold remediation specialist ( but whose truck simply advertises general contractor), after an initial walk through and inspection, I should not be given the idea that half of the kitchen is likely to be saved, if absolutely everything is going to be destroyed. It was literally an empty shell. It definitely crossed my mind that it was simply easier for them to gut a kitchen than to remediate half of it. I'll never know if some of could have been saved. The other bidders all had seemed to think that half of it could have been saved as well.
One other thing. Because they took out ALL the cabinets, they needed to remove the counter tops. Two large stone counter tops. Apparently one had a fine crack in it from the expansion of the wood underneath which was dismaying. I was assured they would work with them with the greatest care to prevent possibility of breakage. One of the guys even claimed to be a "stone expert".
Apparently, after seeing my agony over the possibility of a break, they did connect with who delivered them a piece of lumber to carry out the counter top with, thereby avoiding stress to the middle and preventing a break. He did not come to supervise them and well, these fellows placed the lumber under one countertop and left that counter top in the kitchen and then proceeded to pick up the other counter top without any support underneath. The middle of the counter top had a large cutout for the range, where they stone would be most prone to break anyway. They grabbed it by either end and it immediately snapped in two. I got the call from the lead guy who recounted this exact story to me, probably being so honest out of shock and his own dismay. He knew how much more this was going to cost me- to find the same stone- to custom cut it to size along with the same cutouts and bevel. If I had been there this would not have happened. If had been there, I would like to think that he would also have pointed out that that was what the lumber was for. That you can't carry stone slab that way. I discussed it with and he quietly admitted that this is what had happened and I think that was part of the reason he never showed up again, in addition to perhaps not really caring as this was not a high profit job for him, and it being around Thanksgiving when people get busy with the holidays. Or perhaps this was just his MO, I could not tell. Still, the poor results and extra expense were to be absorbed by me with out comment.
Which I was prepared to do, and not express any frustration. But after the insulting way they "closed out" the job, we are now fighting about whether they will actually complete the job, offer a reduction, or if we are just supposed to waste more time, energy and money battling over the final $2,000. I have a lot on my plate already and this is a huge extra
Would you choose this contractor? I never would again.

- Esme L.

helped me in reviewing two mold reports from two other mold inspection companies.
explained the reports to me along with course of action with out charging me.
suggestion was very helpful for me.
I am very grateful to .

Mold Removal Experts in Los Angeles

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

ServPro of Eagle Rock

3368 N San Fernando Rd Ste 110
Los Angeles

SERVPRO of Eagle Rock

3368 N. San Fernando Rd, #110
Los Angelas

SERVPRO of Encino/Sherman Oaks

18034 Ventura Blvd

SERVPRO of Glendora & San Dimas

433 Fleetwood Pl

Servpro of North Pomona / La Verne

1689 Curtiss Court
La Verne


P.O. Box 7545
Santa Monica

Servpro of Studio City/Valley Village

12400 Ventura Blvd
Studio City

Servpro of Walnut & Hacienda Heights

515 Spanish Ln. Unit D

SERVPRO of Westwood-West Beverly Hills

8484 Wilshire Blvd
Beverly Hills

Servpro of Whittier

9245 Santa Fe Springs Rd
Santa Fe Springs

Sharp Services, Inc.

3100 Venice Blvd
Los Angeles

Sheppard Construction

2681 Dow Ave

Sherlock Mold,LLC.

7210 Jordan Ave
Canoga Park

Sigma Services Inc.

2140 Eastman Ave.

Simple Environmental

7711 Gentry Ave
North Hollywood

Simple Environmental

3704 W 119th St

Simple Environmental

950 S Westmoreland Ave, #114
Los Angeles

Simply Plumbing and Rooter

15081 Purdy St

Sky Blue Environmental, Inc.

708 Arroyo St
San Fernando

Sky Renovation

5632 Van Nuys Blvd
Van Nuys

Smart Cleaning & Restoration

Los Angeles
Los Angeles

Smart Cleaning and Restoration

1300 Wilshire Boulevard
Los Angeles

SoCal Contractor

3289 Veteran Ave
Los Angeles

SOS Mold

578 Washington blvd
Marina Del Rey

Southwest Construction & Home Improvement

2729 S Roberston Blvd
Los Angeles

Spectrum Mold inspection

6513 blucher ave
Van Nuys

Starstrukk Carpet Cleaning & Restoration

2405 Forney St #12
Los Angeles

Superdry Restoration, Inc.

6476 Florence Ave, Suite B

Superior Environmental

555 E. Edna Pl.

Supreme Remodeling Inc

14545 Victory Blvd
Van Nuys

Tag Team 911

27943 Seco Canyon
Santa Clarita

TBG RESTORATION Contractors, Inc.

Los Angeles

Team Expedite

554 Frankfurt Ave. West Covina

Team Pro Restoration

1556 S Robertson Blvd
Los Angeles

Terra Environmental

12631 Imperial Highway Unit A225
Santa Fe Springs

Testa Environmental Group, LLC

7108 Catella Avenue

TFM Mold and Water Damage Restoration

2752 El Dorado St.

The Hills General Contracting

5538 Norwalk Bldvd

The House Next Door

11336 camarillo st
North Hollywood

The JVS Construction Group

1732 W. Slauson Ave.
Los Angeles

The Machina Group, Inc.

1801 N. Garfield Pl.
Los Angeles

The Mold Guy Inc

9190 W Olympic Blvd
Beverly Hills

The Stucco Guys

11601 Moen

The Ultimate Company LLC

12581 Venice Blvd Suite 200
Los Angeles

The Water Damage Experts Incorporated

2355 Westwood Blvd.
Los Angeles

There-Repair Mold and Water Damage

17827 Beach Boulevard, Huntington Beach, CA 92647
Huntington Beach

There-to-Repair Water Damage Recovery

433 S Oxnard Blvd.

Thorough Property Inspection Services

1777 N. Marengo Ave.

Treeium, Inc

5352 Laurel Canyon Blvd.
Valley Village



Trinity Builders & Design

7022 Darby Ave Ste A

Triple J Certified Mold Inspection

4541 W. 172nd st.

Trojan Restoration

530 S lake ave 519

TSC Restoration, Inc.

225 Broadway
San Diego

Twin Home Experts

7243 Woodley Ave
Van Nuys


21345 Deering Court
Canoga Park

Urban Defense

PO Box 60202

Urgent Services & Associates Corporation

11442 Haskell Avenue
Granada Hills

USA Mold Guard, Inc

2911 E Miraloma Ave

USA Restoration Pros

1480 Colorado Blvd
Los Angeles

Vegas Water Damage LLC

2297 Bigelow Ave
Simi Valley

Vic'S Restoration & Construction

PO Box 950931
Mission Hills

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive

Vital Core

26795 State Hwy 74

Water Damage Clean Up

We Come To You
Long Beach

Water Damage Zone & Restoration Inc

15115 Califa St
Van Nuys

Water Pro Restoration

16139 Cantlay St.
Van Nuys

WDR Contracting

P.O. Box 2370

We Love Small Jobs Handyman Services

4470 Sunset Blvd
Los Angeles

Weinstein Construction Corp

15102 Raymer St
Van Nuys

West Coast Carpet Cleaning Company in Long Beach

3801, E Pacific Coast Hwy
Long Beach

West Coast Commercial Construction

13710 Bora Drive
Santa Fe Springs

West Coast Deck Waterproofing

6804 Rosecrans Avenue

Westside Home Inspections

2312 6Th Street
Santa Monica


13203 Hadley St

Wynn Builders

Redondo Beach

Zimax Water & Fire Damage Restoration

1301 23rd St
Manhattan Beach

Zion Energy

3249 Isla Vista Dr
San Diego

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