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"In April of 2014 one of their sales persons called me to schedule an appoint to put in solar panels, he quoted a price of $57000.00 so I refused. Several months" later, in August, the same sales person called to tell me that I was qualified to have the project financed through the company because of a new program they had just started. He took a down payment of $5,000.00 and had me sign the appropriate papers, then told me that they would be getting the approval from my , it would take a couple of weeks. A week later, another person from Solar E Clip called upon me to change the name on the the check to Solar E Clip, which I did, she told me she would be calling on me soon. 2 weeks went by and they called to inform me that they were still waiting approval from my . Another week went by, someone called to tell me that my project was all set up to go and I would be in their system. Another week went by and the same person called me again to tell me that I was still in their system and I they would get back to me soon. 2 weeks has gone by since their last call to me, so I called today to ask what was going on, I was put on hold for 5 minutes and no one came back on the phone. So I called again, this time the woman told me that my financing wasn't approved and my finance papers were done fraudulently, (if there was any fraud it wasn't done on my part!) so now my project was cancelled. Ok, so where is my $5000.00 and when was it going to be returned, how long did you know that the work wasn't going to be done? I was told that they would deliver my check today. I still have unanswered questions, why did they keep calling me to tell me that the work was going to be done and then tell me it wasn't? When were they going to inform me that they weren't going to do the work, if I didn't call were they going to keep my money? What was the fraud that was committed and when were you going to let me know? I think this company needs to get their act together and not lead people on, meanwhile I could have gotten my solar somewhere else and have gotten the financing with another company and have had it done already!

-Audrey K.

"It went very well. came out and showed us various options and we decided on the replacement door which was to arrive in several weeks. " Installation was perfect. and came out, took out the preexisting door and frame, and replaced it with a french door. They worked all day, and the end result was a door that was hung perfectly, and everything was cleaned up. came out to paint to door the following day and again they were very professional and neat. The door is beautiful, a real asset. I would highly recommend this team.


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Local Articles in Las Vegas

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

foundation installation

Insulating the outside of your foundation can help lower energy bills and keep your house warmer in winter.

Radiant barrier in attic

HVAC systems work more efficiently with the addition of a reflective barrier as part of your attic insulation.

Angie's Answers


Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Las Vegas


This company is one that has those full-page, front and back, glossy colored ads that come with your mail. So they must be pretty big and I'm surprised that they were not on Angie's List already. So I am adding them in to give this review. My understanding from the salesman who came out is that they mainly do windows and doors, but also do ...More a little insulation as well.
I called for an estimate to add insulation to existing insulation. Receptionist/scheduler was very pleasant and professional. I live in Las Vegas, but Pat Cantolupo from the Arizona office came out for some reason. He arrived in dress casual clothing and was unprepared to check out my existing attic insulation, asking to borrow my ladder. He took a brief look from the ladder, gave me a couple brochures and provided basically no additional information about what he saw and what I needed in terms of amounts of insulation or type of products used and why they would be appropriate for my specific application. I guess that's what the brochures were for.
He then wrote up the estimate and handed it to me while telling me that this was their busy season (March-- really?) so therefore they were able to give me a 25% discount. , I though they gave the discounts when they were slow and needed more business. Anyway, for my 1434 sq. ft. townhouse plus 2 car garage, the estimate came to $2755 before the discount, $2067 with the discount. But wait, there's more! If I signed up today, they would give me another 10% off. I HATE THAT!!! I told him so and that he might as well just go because I'd never have them do the work. He laughed and I think was a bit flustered, probably having never experienced such a reaction from a prospective customer before. But that didn't thwart him. He continued to try to sell me their services and said if I changed my mind to give them a call. I hope Pat and the learn something from this review.
- Susan C.

Their truck arrived on time. They set up quickly and added about 350 square feet of blown-in insulation to our attic space, increasing the depth of the insulation to about 14 inches. It took less than an hour. They cleaned up thoroughly before they left.
They were professional and efficient and we would hire them again.
- Linda S.

Two man crew, and a machine that blows insulation into the attic, one person works in the attic, and one feeds the machine
http://insulation.owenscorning.com/homeowners/renovation/products/atticat-expanding-blown-in-insulation-system/Figuring the costs $35 per ' ' ( L38Z Atticat Blown Insulation) ...More and $75 a day rental of machineplus 2 men labor, the price of $1600 was fair.
I found there work to be excellent, they worked very clean, and left the area broom clean when they left,they also did extra work at no additional charge to me.
Just a note; Insulation Specialists have been bought out by Concepts, They also install solar panels.
- Jonathan G.

When they arrived, her two attic hatches were blocked with insulation. They cleared the obstruction and inspected the attic. To our surprise, there was over a foot of celluose insulation present. They told us she didn't need any more. When asked if radiant was a good idea, they told us that it wouldn't ...More really make an impact since she already had such good insulation. How about that? A company that REFUSES to sell you something you asked about, but don't actually need! Before they left, the two guys raked it out, placed dams around both attic hatches and properly insulated the backs of the hatches with foam board. They spent over an hour, but only charged me $100!

They were honest, on time and a huge pleasure to do business with.
- Sarah W.

came out to evaluate and estimate the amount of insulation needed. On installation day, and arrived on time. explained what they would be doing and they got to work. The whole job was done in 3 hours, including a thorough clean up. We were very pleased ...More with the job and with the pleasantness and professionalism of and . We definitely recommend G&R Insulation to anyone who needs insulation done on their home.
- Frances L.

I tried to contact this company through their web site about 2 months ago. I never got a response to my e-mail. Last month, I tried, once more, to contact them using the e-mail provider on Angies List. I still haven't heard anything from them. If this is any indication of how they conduct business, I don't understand all the "A" ratings.
- Frances L.

Made an appointment with at 1pm on 7/1. That day I was at home 12:40 after pickup my daughter from summer school, and waited for him to showup. Around 3:30pm no one showup or phone call, so I called the company. They said he was at my house by 1pm and no one home, he'll on his way. He showed up shortly ...More after the phone told me he was here about 1pm and he had call no one answer... I showed him the entrance to the attic(every small door). He looked in, didn't go in. Then we went to the roof check the air conditioner to see if there is leak. He also went outside the house look around. I had the energy audit done by the power company before, so I showed him what they said about the house. The house is about 1600sf. He gave me a price of $1,124. I told him the 20% discount at the Angie's list, and email it to the company. We set an appiontment for 2 workers on the next Friday 1pm.
& showup at 1pm. Both were in clean yellow uniforms(they looked very clean). Hand-shook by . They started prepare their work outside at their truck. Few minutes later they came in the house in their work clothes, and covered up the entrance and some of the things by the entrance of the attic. Fiber glass and a big hose went in the attic, started work inside, worked outside at the truck putting bags of insulation in a machine is conect to the hose. They were wearing . Few time, came down from the attic. He was cover by the insulation ashes, I think he wants to get some air. Maybe 3 hours, they told me is done. I asked what about the leak at the air conditioner on the roof. They said is already fixed. I didn't know when they went up, so I want to go check and closed the house door but unlock( I was by myself that time, they were at the frontyard). They did fix the air conditioner before they work at the attic. When I came down from the roof, was in the house(Hope nothing is missing). He started to remove all the covers at the attic, and picked up the mess they leave behind. made an other door with fiber glass for the attic. He gave me some papers to sign and call for the charge. Hand-shook by again when they leave.
- Lan O.

The plus side is that this company showed us some cool toys they have for measuring heat coming into the house. I bought some thermal curtains for the windows which surprisingly appear to block a lot of heat coming in. The employees were all very professional and courteous.
- Amy M.

Insulation Contractors in Las Vegas

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!


Las Vegas


7500 W. Lake Mead Blvd. Ste. #9-297
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

Absolute Best Handyman Services

6120 Chinook Way
Las Vegas

AC Pro

3480 Birtcher Dr.
Las Vegas

AC Pro

2910 South Highland Drive Suite D
Las Vegas



Advanced Pro Remediation LLC

5961 McLeod Drive
Las Vegas

Air Doctor Inc.

1922 Western Ave
Las Vegas

Alaskan Heating & Air Conditioning

3170 Polaris Avenue
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd


Las Vegas

Anayat Construction

150 e Silverado ranch blvd
Las Vegas

Attila The Handyman

4837 Val Verde Ct
Las Vegas

Axiom Construction & Management LLP

3960 Howard Hughes Pkwy
Las Vegas

B&C Construction

1018 E Warm Springs Rd

Banker Insulation of NV

4730 Cecile Ave
Las Vegas


PO Box 28697
Las Vegas


Las Vegas


Las Vegas

BRL's Windows & Doors

4310 Losee Rd
Las Vegas


3140 Polaris Ave Ste 27

C A Builders

P. O. Box 27056
Las Vegas

Coastal International Inc.

5475 Wynn Rd Ste 400
Las Vegas

Comfort Masters Co

6386 Montessouri St
Las Vegas

Country Wide ProServ

2017 Humble Hollow Pl
North Las Vegas

Custom Works

408 N Sandhill Rd
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

D's Tint

2450 Losee Rd. Unit L
Las Vegas

David McMahan

PO Box 4415

Desert Home Inspections Inc

10474 Rustyville Ct
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

DREW Carpentry and Construction

7150 schuster st
Las Vegas

Ecolife Development & Remodeling

9850 S Maryland Pkwy
Las Vegas

Edgar's Services, Inc.

4080 W Desert Inn Rd W109
Las Vegas

Energy 1st Exteriors

500 N 56th St Ste 7


Las Vegas


4005 W Dewey Dr
Las Vegas


5275 S. Arville St.
Las Vegas

EQUITY Builders

4608 Heidi Circle
Las Vegas

F & F Enterprises

35 Zircon Circle


6283 S Valley View Blvd
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

First Quality Roofing & Insulation

3141 Westwood Dr.
Las Vegas

Focus Construction LLC

2680 Chandler Ave Ste 2
Las Vegas

Green Services

6388 Dallaswood Ln
Las Vegas

GVS Construction LLC

704 Brush St
Las Vegas

Haner Construction

5201 Patricia Avenue
Las Vegas

Hard Surfaces

PO Box 335009
North Las Vegas

Home Depot

1401 S Lamb Blvd
Las Vegas

Imperial Property Maintenance

4600 Gretel Cir
Las Vegas


North Las Vegas


North Las Vegas

IntelliPro Inc

128 Grandview Dr

J. Spenc Handyman Service

603 Crimson View Place
Las Vegas

jeramsey contractor

6232 cedarbrook dr
Las Vegas

john the carpenter

6337 pageant street
North Las Vegas

K.J.'S Handyman Services

2120 Abbe LN

Krahenbuhl Collins

3808 Octagon
N Las Vegas


Las Vegas

Las Vegas Handyman

4710 W Dewey Dr
Las Vegas

LV Restoration Inc

500 N Rainbow Blvd
Las Vegas


3675 S Highland Dr Ste 4
Las Vegas



PRS Professional Roofing Service

4180 W Patrick Ln
Las Vegas

Pure Construction Inc.

8342 Sunset Horizon St
Las Vegas

QEDS Construction

424 Ackerman Lane

Red Rock Insulation

5810 Wynn Rd
Las Vegas


Las Vegas


Las Vegas

Ruiter Construction LLC

3355 Palms Center Dr.
Las Vegas


North Las Vegas

Seamingly Straight Inc

161 Kennet Ct
Las Vegas

Service 1st Energy Solutions

3863 South Valley View Blvd
Las Vegas

Service Team Of Professionals, Las Vegas

4345 Corporate Center Dr.
North Las Vegas

Sharp Services

10000 La Paca Ave
Las Vegas

Showtime Builders

7130 Pipers Run Pl
North Las Vegas

Silver State Safety Services, LLC

8032 Broken Spur Ln
Las Vegas

Silver State Specialties LLC

4030 Industrial Center Dr Ste 502
North Las Vegas

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Starmark Energy Solutions

850 S. Boulder Hwy Suite 192


Las Vegas

Sun Janitorial

840 S. Rancho Dr. STE#4-246
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

Synergy Spray Foam Insulation Las Vegas

4181 Oquendo Rd.
Las Vegas


1856 Pama Ln
Las Vegas

The Home Depot

7881 W Tropical Pkwy
Las Vegas

Tiburon Construction

7854 West Sahara Ave.
Las Vegas

Today's Energy Store

137 N Gibson Rd

Two Handyman Services

1321 Pinto Rock LN
Las Vegas


3225 South Tioga Way
Las Vegas

USI of Las Vegas

4216 N Pecos Rd
Las Vegas


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Weatherguard Construction

10170 W. Tropicana Ave.
Las Vegas


PO Box 405

Yes! Las Vegas - 8757

6275 S Pioneer Way
Las Vegas

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