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"Its been quite awhile ago. I had them do some minor work but was very nice and very prompt. When we had the water pipe problem, water was going into the street from" the water line, it was broken somewhere. Anyways the water department man came by, he was going to check the meter to see if it was anything wrong with the meter that was causing this and he said I recommend and thats how we got the referral for . It was a good and quick service.

-Jack L.

"I purchased an Angie's List Deal that was specific to what I needed done. It was advertised for $69 but they were having some kind of special so I got $5.00" off. The guys were great. The work was completed in app. 45 minutes. New faucet works great.

-Ramon H.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.


If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.


Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.


As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.



Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Las Vegas


I?m writing this so anyone looking for a reputable plumbing company will know to choose . My father fractured his hip and I have been his caretaker now for two months while he is recovering. As a gift to me, he knew I wanted a holistic doggie spa in my house, so he purchased a grooming tub and looked through his Angie?s list ...More booklet to find a reputable company to do the plumbing . Since offered a free estimate, he told me to give them a call and when they come to my house, he said you decide if you feel they should be hired. If the estimate is reasonable and I felt good about them, tell them they have the job. (My father had used Angie?s list before and was not disappointed.) I told my Dad from was a sincere person and that he had the job. Because of the proximity of the tub there was a problem in connecting the drain. found a way to drain the tub in my washer drain. We were fortunate in hiring and for to do the work. He did a wonderful job and explained all that he did. Everything was neat and ran perfect. A few days later his boss called me and asked if everything was alright. I thought they were very thorough and couldn?t have asked for a better company. I was also surprised, and delighted, to receive a card from with a gift certificate for Star Bucks ?in appreciation for the work?. Now that?s appreciation! Thank you for being an honest and considerate plumbing business. I won?t hesitate to use your services in the future if needed. and my father Angie?s List Member
- John H.

arrived on time and began to clean out the kitchen drain so he could get a better look. He took his time to assure that he could get a good look. We were told that there were a couple of breaks at the joints, but that there was no major pipe damage.
gave us his appraisal and told us everything ...More that would happen. He was able to start the next morning and arrived early with his crew. He then had an associate re-check his findings so they would not dig more than necessary. First day was digging out to reach the problem. and his crew were polite and professional. Day 2 began the repairs and went as smooth as the first day. Day 3 was to be the final day putting everything back in place and hooking up new sinks and faucets we had purchased (no extra charge), however the concrete had not fully cured, he did not try to rush the job to get it finished. He had his worker come by the next morning (which was Saturday) and finish up. I have to say that the entire experience, start to finish was better than anything we expected. came by with the final bill on Monday afternoon, which included our Angies LIst discount. 100% satisfied and is the one my family endorse to all our friends.


He put in rocks, contoured the land, put in lights, walkways, gravel for drainage and half moon shaped patio. It is just beautiful and when it rains the water just drains right through it. He also put in a box for vegetable gardening. Everything is in the brown coloring including the rocks and decomposed gravel. We had 40 regional kinds of plants. ...More Our neighbour across the street commented on our garden. Two of his landscape people came out to our house the first time to talk to us about what we liked and showed us pictures so that we could have an idea of the color and the fancy lights. They spend an hour talking to us. I am so happy. I love to catch a glimpse of the backyard with lights under the trees and I was telling my husband last night how pretty all this is to me. During the day time too I love it. We found them on Angies List. They did all this before the summer heat. We will use this provider in the future.
- Mike P.

The concrete was left open because they don't handle our type of driveway that was stamped and colored. They were very thorough. is who came and he explained how the detection system works and showed me how he progressed when he found the leak. He showed me the spot and what he had to do to repair it. I'm extremely ...More satisfied with how he handled it.

Plumbers were on time, very polite, neat and clean. They cleaned up all their mess and dirt. Hauled all boxes and old plumbing pipes and drains. Everything looks and works great. I would call them again ASAP. They were great.

The job itself was done extremely well, but there were complications and misunderstandings within the crew. There was one workman who worked on his own time trying to get paid under the table, which I reported to the management. This started some bad feelings, after the man in question was terminated. Now the plumbers don't want to work at my house. ...More In my opinion, management did not handle the situation very well; after all they are ultimately responsible for the behavior of their workers.
- J.J. C.

was very prompt at getting their job done. We had someone else look at the leak and they gave me a price for thousands of dollars. Mister Rooter came out and gave me an estimate that was way lower. They had fixed the problem in just one day. All their employees were in uniform and very nice and very helpful. They cleaned my yard ...More very well before they left.

did a very very good job. Everything turned out as expected. The men were really nice. They took their time to make sure the job was done correctly. The guy specifically told me that this was a big job so I might see them here for a long time. He said he wanted to make sure everything was done right. He wanted to be certain that ...More there would not be any problems. I trusted his word and I was not disappointed. The pricing was very reasonable considering how big of a job this was. I will continue to use for all of my plumbing needs.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Las Vegas

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A Better Plumbing, LLC

4533 Balfour Dr.
Las Vegas


24 Burning Tree Ct
Las Vegas

A-Team Plumbing & Water

3230 Polaris Ave
Las Vegas


8295 Helena Ave
Las Vegas

Access Services Group

126 Cassia Way

Active Plumbing Inc

3261 S Highland Dr
Las Vegas

Adaven plumbing inc

2492 palma vista ave
Las Vegas

Affordable Home Service

1924 Joella Street
Las Vegas

All Star Maintenance

4217 Becket Ct.
Las Vegas

AllAces Plumbing, LLC

1841 Sutton Drive


6185 Harrison Dr
Las Vegas

Andrews Plumbing & Repair inc.

2532 Cherrywood St
Las Vegas

Atlas Plumbing

1628 Athol Avenue

Backyard Connection

489 Beaconwood St

Bargain Plumbing & Rooter LLC

133 E. Warm Springs Rd
Las Vegas

Bautista Landscape

4640 gracemont
Las Vegas

Big Apple Plumbing

North Las Vegas

Big Dawg Plumbing LLC

6924 Bienville Street
Las Vegas

Blue & Green Services

1611 W Brooks Ave
North Las Vegas

Blue Tree Enterprises

651 N. Pueblo Blvd

Bob's Handyman

3900 El Cedral Ave.
Las Vegas

Butter Plumbing

4130 Arctic Spring Ave Ste 1
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

Cacti Landscapes Inc

3104 Siena Cir
Las Vegas

Carrillo Landscape Services Inc

4050 E Saint Louis Ave
Las Vegas

Chief Septic & Sewer LLC

3395 S Jones Blvd
Las Vegas

Clark County Builders LLC

59 Toggle St

Cortez & J & A Services

4371 lucas
Las Vegas

Cosmo's Plumbing

P.O. Box 24442
Las Vegas

Country Wide ProServ

2017 Humble Hollow Pl
North Las Vegas


Las Vegas


2870 Marco St
Las Vegas

dyno plumbing

po box 13378
Las Vegas

Earthworks Landscaping

5117 Copper River Ave
Las Vegas

EQUITY Builders

4608 Heidi Circle
Las Vegas

Flo-Pro Plumbing

5233 Limelight Ct
N Las Vegas

Focus Plumbing

1220 S Commerce St
Las Vegas

Gnc Plumbing

Las Vegas

Haner Construction

5201 Patricia Avenue
Las Vegas

Hawthorne Plumbing Heating Cooling

4570 W Post Rd
Las Vegas

Imperial Property Maintenance

4600 Gretel Cir
Las Vegas

Industrial Mechanical Systems

1000 N Green Valley Pkwy. Suite 400-239

Jack Dish Plumbing

1452 W Horizon Ridge Pkwy

Jenni Plumber

5546 Camino Al Norte
North Las Vegas

K.J.'S Handyman Services

2120 Abbe LN


Las Vegas

Lakeview Patios

8624 Paddle Wheel Way
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

Living Water Lawn and Garden INC

6955 N Durango Dr
Las Vegas


Las Vegas

LV Service Solutions, LLC

5000 W. Oakey #A2
Las Vegas

LV Yard Doctor

3325 Ali Baba Lane
Las Vegas

M & L Home Improvement

4341 Newridge Ct
Las Vegas

Markallen Plumbing

2291 Gally Rd

Mauri Landscapes Ltd

8355 Rancho Destino Rd
Las Vegas

MC Plumbing LLC

205 E Brooks Ave
North Las Vegas

NOW! Plumbing and Heating

3191 Builders Avenue
Las Vegas

Perfection Landscape LLC

1342 Bledsoe Ln
Las Vegas

Plumbing Solutions of Nevada

4170 Pioneer Ave
Las Vegas

Pure Plumbing

6255 McLeod Dr
Las Vegas


848 North Rainbow Boulevard
Las Vegas

Rooster's Reliable Lawn Care

1000 N Green Valley Pkwy

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

639 E Brooks Ave
North Las Vegas

Santana Solutions

6056 golden nectar way
Las Vegas

scarpati&sons construction co

4929 san miguel ave
Las Vegas

Schilling Horticulture Group Inc

3433 Losee Rd
North Las Vegas

Service Plus Plumbing

179 N Gibson Rd

Silver Star Plumbing, Drain & Sewer

452 E. Silverado Ranch #169
Las Vegas

Silver State Safety Services, LLC

8032 Broken Spur Ln
Las Vegas

Star 5 Plumbing

9780 Galahad Point CT
Las Vegas

Technical mechanical & Plumbing

7208 Eve Ct.
Las Vegas

The Sunny Plumber

8311 W Sunset Rd
Las Vegas

Thor Mechanical

10412 Coyote Cub Ave.
Las Vegas

Two Handyman Services

1321 Pinto Rock LN
Las Vegas


4305 W POST RD
Las Vegas

Vegas Plumbing Service Inc

1964 Sycamore Trl
Las Vegas

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