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A
"We were having issues with the basement flooding due to some poor drainage around the house. Our AC unit is right next to the house, which made the problem a little" harder to fix. was the only person we got an estimate from that said he would be able to fix the issue without having to have the AC unit moved. He added some fill dirt around the house and graded it to keep water away from the house. He also added a new drainage pipe running from the downspout to the back of the house. He even kept our existing landscape rock and added back after the job was finished. we've had several big rains since the job was finished, but our basement remains dry! He was very knowledgeable and efficient. We would highly recommend him.

-Lesley W.

A
"I am totally satisfied with his services. Just remembered he has also delivered gravel to another rental house for me. He is my go-to guy for gravel, excavating, sewer (and water) lines.

-STEVEN L.

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Local Articles in Kansas City

backhoe

Excavating

There are many reasons why homeowners need a professional to excavate their yard, concrete or around their foundation. In this guide to hiring an excavator, we'll dig into what situations require someone to do excavation work, what to look for when hiring an excavator, what you should do before you dig, alternatives to excavation, costs to excavate on your property and scams to avoid.

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Angie's Answers

?

Short answer - yes it is possible. However, generally you are looking at major $, and a lot of workers tracking dirt up and down the basement stairs unless you have (or can easily add) an outside basement door.

You would need a General Contractor as well as a foundation specialist if you use a General, who will handle permits, minor electrical, plumbing, and drywall repair issues even though most of the heavy work may be done by the foundation specialist subcontractor. If you go the lift beam method, then it might be a house mover doing the lifting, then the General and normal trades handling the rest.

When a house is built with a part basement and part crawl space, the footer (the concrete strip support pad the foundation wall is bonded to with rebar and sits on) typically sits a foot or two below the basement slab. Then, to save money, they "step-up" the footer to a shallower depth for the crawl space. This means that to deepen the crawl space to full depth, you also have to deepen the foundation. It is very rare to put in full depth foundation all around, then backfill part of it to crawlspace depth - if you have gone to the trouble of full depth foundation all around, why not pour a slab and sell the additional basement footage too ? See if you can come up with the builder's plans p they will show you what the footer does.

Deepening the crawl space to full depth is commonly done in one of two ways for residential jobs (there are several more sophisticated methods such as pin piles used on large or very tricky commercial jobs, or on historic buildings with weak foundations and walls) -

1) by carefully excavating the crawl space to the new footer depth (say about 5-8 feet below ground level, depending on whether you have a daylight or full basement) bit by bit along the foundation (3-5 feet at a time, typically), usually tearing out the existing foundation for that section while temporarily support the existing wall and joists, then pouring a new concrete footer and foundation wall up to the bottom of the house beams. Occasionally, they will be able to leave the existing wall and pour the new foundation up to and connect to the bottom of it. Then you move on and do another section the same way, so you are incrementally removing dirt, building a new wall section, then moving on. This is quite expensive because of the limited work space and difficulty of getting materials in and waste dirt and old foundation materials out, and the slow progress due to having to wait for concrete to set before you can buid the wall on the footer, and before you can move on to the next section.

2) by cutting slots in the existing crawl space walls and sliding heavy steel beams through  crossways under the floor joists and picking up the weight of the section of the house over the crawl space on jacks, elevating it about 1/2 inch above the existing foundation, all at one time. Then they can remove the existing crawl space foundation and all the dirt all at once, and pour a new footer and pour or lay a new foundation up to the bottom of the walls, then lower the house back onto it and pull out the support beams.

Either way, because of the restricted work space and waitingon concrete setting, the excavation and new foundation will cost about 2-4 times as much as one done outdoors. Therefore, while this type of job is done on occasion, a contractor's or architect's estimate usually shows that you can build a totally new one story extension or Florida room for not an exorbitant amount more, and that new space is worth a lot more to most homeowners, and certainly to a new buyer, than basement space.

As one example, we had two neighbors years ago who had the numbers run by an architect, and for one the estimate was only 30% more to build a large Florida room than to reclaim a crawl space about 1/3 smaller in floor area. For the other they could get the foundation and rough framing (without siding, roof, or interior) for a basement-less new addition the same size for the same price as digging out the crawl space. For this reason, when crawl space expansion is done on a residence, it is usually a do-it-yourself job (and you have to be pretty experienced to do it right).

One other factor of significance if you dig out the crawl space is all the utilities (wiring, pipes, ducts, etc) have to be checked to see that there is freedom of movement at the interface between the area over the crawl space and the rest of the house, as there is bound to be a little bit of movement between them. It is also almost inevitable that there will be minor non-structural cracking and slight separation of plaster or drywall walls and ceilings at the junction area over the first couple of years afer construction. Nailed-down hardwood flooring and vinyl near the interface can also buckle, though "floating" laminate floors are usually OK. Of course, if the contractor is incompetent or inexperienced, serious damage to the house can result, particularly if the foundation collapses while he is digging.

Therefore, I would not recommend this route except for a very expensive house (as in building a wine cellar or safe room), a historic house where additions are prohibited, or one the owners just love and intend to live in for many more decades but do not have land space for an addition. I would put the money into an addition if you need the additional space and have the land.

?
?
Well the fact is he is going to have to pull permits which means it has to be inspected before he is done, you also have to consider the equiptment that he has to bring out to the jobsite to do the job and the man power plus materials, it's costly, but I am not from your area so if you are unsure call another company out and see what they say.
Don't tell them what the other company said as far as price.
?

It is almost certain that you will have to modify the foundation to make it deeper too - and that is MAJOR structural work.

 

You need a civil/geotechnical engineering firm with experience in foundation rehab and putting in basements under existing homes to design the process and prepare and seal the plans and specifications, which you will need before you can get a building permit for this. They will also be able to help you select either a foundation excavation or a house moving and jacking company to do the actual work for you.

 

The engineer can also help you with a cost estimate - because I think you will be surprised how much this is going to cost. I have designed or managed quite a few such jobs, from highrise buildings to homes, and even the smallest houses of about 600SF footprint ran at least $15,000, and generally house basement excavations run more like $25-40,000 unless the foundation was originally designed for it but for some reason the basement was never put in, which is VERY rare except in very deep frost areas were footings are occasionally deep enough to allow a basement to be dug without deepening them. I worked on a couple back east that ran about $100,000 each because they were old 2-story brick buildings, which are very sensitive to differential movements - probably like yours.

 

A couple of other factors to consider is that in doing this you are likely to get at least some minor drywall cracking and door and window jamming, and be sure the contractor is insured and bonded to the hilt and for the potential rebuild value of the house, not just the job cost, because a major mistake can turn your house into a teardown. Not common, but the less experienced the contractor the more likely he is to do something dramatically wrong, and at the same time the smaller and less experienced contractors generally have lower coverages so your risks is compounded in two ways. With a row home you have the added risk of damaging adjacent units.

 

One thing to consider cost wise before you go ahead - I have worked a couple of jobs where it turned out cheaper and far safer to scrap the digging in a basement idea and put in an addition with same footprint instead. However, looking back I see you are in a row home, so that is likely not going to work. However, being in a row home, especially if on the Potomac flats south or east of the capital area, the soil conditions are generally the pits once you get off the Georgetown heights, so putting a basement under a rowhome without disturbing the other ones is VERY difficult and pricey - I would be surprised if you could do it for less than $100,000.

One other factor is utilities - one of the first things to do is check depth to any utilities like sewer lines, the Metro, etc - if you are over one of those that could well put your project totally out of the frame of reality.

 

You asked for a recommendation - one who specializes in this type of work that I would recommend, though your job might well be too small size for them - but they might be able to give you an engineer and contractor recommendation if so. Company name is Schnabel Foundation Company in Sterling Va and Bethesda, MD in your area - website www.schnabel.com. They could handle both the engineering and construction.

?
If the windows are being put in by a general contractor, he can easily handle the window wells too. If you were looking for a window installer to do the windows, they might or might not do the window wells as well - some do, some do not. A small one-man excavation company can do this excavation, as can a handyman as it just takes about 1/2-1 hour shovel work per window in normal soil conditions, because the soil around the foundation is already pretty loose from foundation constructiuon (as a rule). Just be sure they pour concrete in the bottom to keep water from coming under the well, and that it is firmly fastened to the foundation and liberally asphalt sealed at the interface with the concrete - not just caulked at the edge, but mastic-coated on cleaned concrete BEFORE the window well in installed and concrete poured in the bottom. (Note - the concrete depends on soil conditions and water level - if your soil is pretty free draining and groundwater level never comes up to bottom of window well, then a gravel bed in the bottom is best so it stays dry - but if groundwater rises that high or you are in real impermeable soil like clay, then concrete works best. If concrete bottom is used, you probably want to have the clear acrylic window well cover put on too to keep water and frogs and such out. Of course, if this is an emergency egress window, you cannot put the plastic covers over it legally.
?

Wow - from way general to totally specific - nice job, you have your scope of work almost ready to contact potential bidders about giving a bid - just need to double check each item hads quantities attached to it, plus a plan with depths (or specify tie-in elevations to existing pipe and required drain/pipe slopes - say 1% or more). Search the List (in green banner bar) for Earthwork and Excavation contractors in your area with good reviews and ratings.

here is a very rough idea of costs - obviously you need bids to tie it down, this should just give you a ballpark to compare to - assuming all this work is done at the same time.

1) & 2) - Tree and rock maybe $100 - more like $200 if you want the stump totally rooted out rather than just the stump and root crown taken out.

3) Walk removal and disposal probably about $100-200 - maybe half if these are 3-4 inch individual concrete squares or rectangles that can be skidded to the side, the excavation and ground sloping done, then slid back into place with a backhoe or bobcat or by wood skids and prybar, eliminating the hauling and disposal cost.

4) Excavation and disposal of soil probably about $20-30/CY, because you are talking a small quantity. Cheaper if you have an on-site area it can be spread out onsite for disposal, or stockpiled in yard as a future project dirt pile, if that is suitable.

5) You don't say what the existing drain is - underground drain for downspouts maybe ? For shallow burial, probably about $5/LF or so. Why square - round is cheaper and far stronger for given material thickness.

6) Fence R&R probably about $150-200, depending on depth of posts and whether concreted in or not.

7) vegetation removal - not knowing how much, $100-200

8) Garden wall around $10-12/SF assuming excavated material from yard is suitable for the general backfill - remember should go 4-12 inches below grade for stability (4" for this wall, more like 6-12 for higher front wall)

Front/side yard:

1) Move large boulder - $50-100

2) vegetation removal and relocate 3 shrubs - $150-300 (not knowing how much vegetation orhow big shrubs are)

3) excavation at $20-30/CY again as above

4) sprinkler system relocate/repair - $75-150

5) garden wall around $12-15/SF as above including concrete footer needed for this height wall

6) area drain laterals about $5-10/LF, assuming not over 3 feet deep

7) slab drainage - I don't know where the quick lime idea came from, but this is a no-go - it will remove a small amount of water (maybe 5-20 gallons) from the soil one-time - it has no long term function as it will quickly become saturated. You are actually likely to have 5 wet circles in your concrete slab from this forever, as the lime will act as a soggy sponge, retaining water that would otherwise wick away. If you have or expect a basement slab moisture problem, then you need a sump pump with sump installed, and possibly (depending on how free-draining the base material under your slab is to carry waer to the sump pump) lateral drains cut in below the perimeter of the slab. Can run from $800-1500 range for a pump and pit depending on capacity and wiring situation, plus $500-1000 for an emergency battery-powered backup if desired. $1000-2500 range typically if lateral drains around the perimeter of the slab are necessary. Cheaper but sloppier and moisture-causing solution is small trenches or above-slab channels to carry the water to sump pump. These laterals are commonly held off on till you see if the sump pump can handle the issue itself, ASSUMING you have unfinished basement so a bit of seepage aroundbthe slab does no more damage than needing a mopping up. Personally, unless you have a continual seepage of water into basement or it is finished so leakage is critical, I would leave sump pump and drains for later - to see if your surface drainage changes eliminates the basement dampness problem, which it commonly does unless your water table rises to the basement slab level. Also, having a sump pump implies water issues and tolls against any future buyer finishing an unfinished basement, so it detracts from resale value if you have one.

Note these are off-the-cuff type numbers, NOT any sort of deliberate estimate - but I felt it was better to give you a ballpark than to just say go get estimates. Except for the floor drains, this sounds like a good job for a small 1-3 man excavation and hauling company, but make sure they have experience in putting in drain pipe and block walls and have good references in that area.

Note- if you are inclined to do it yourself work and have the time, most of this is good homeowner home improvement project material. You could have a contractor with a bobcat or small tractor with small backhoe come and pull the fence posts out (you could remove the above-ground apart easily), trench for the pipes, maybe move the rocks and sidewalk (though you could do that yourself with a few scraps of wood as skids and a 5 foot prybar assuming the walk is in piece, not continuously reinforced, and to do the bulk excavation and hauling for you, leaving the vegetation clearing, pipe work, trench backfilling, final slope dressing, block wall building, transplanting, etc to you - could cut your cost about 1/3-1/2. Basement slab drainage I consider a separate issue which would not cost significantly different if done as part of this job, or later if drainage channels or slab french drains are deemed necessary.

For the excavation - remember to get utility locates - I recommend once for bidding so they know where utilities are, then require the bidder to get relocates just before excavation starts. Gas, telephone, cable TV are commonly less than a foot down - water and sewer usually 3 feet or more but don't count on it. Also worry about septic system is you have that, and any power or water lines to/from well if you have a well. Plus of course your sprinkler system if in the way of proposed excavation.

Good Luck with your project

 

Excavating reviews in Kansas City

B

Rating
+ courteous, responsive, timely, good price
_ condition of landscaping after
We should have discussed how the area would be "put back together". They are NOT landscapers, but ARE responsible, fair sewer contractors. I would use them again.
- patricia M.
A

Rating
He arrived on time and after more digging than planned he found the sewer line and put his camera in to determine where the break was. The line was over 7 feet deep, which is more than usual, but the real problem was the huge amount of large limestone chunks
that had to be removed in addition to dirt and tree roots.
His excavator is plenty ...More powerful and small enough to go between most houses. He also has a Bobcat loader and dump truck.
He stuck to his bid even though it took longer than planned. The big hole was backfilled and leveled out nicely, ready for a little raking and some grass seed.
In the past has also delivered gravel to other of my properties. His truck is small enough that it should not damage driveways.
- STEVEN L.
F

Rating
TERRIBLE! Run for your life! This guy says he knows how to do things & does not. He describes a job at the outset, and then doesn't do it at all the way he originally described. Instead of hand digging a trench to install the drain, he dug up my entire back yard, side yard, and damaged the front yard with his bobcat. once the yard was ...More a sea of mud, I had to let him continue till it was covered up just to have a somewhat serviceable yard for my dogs to use.
He didn't put gravel around the pipe, never covered up the original t-pipe he put in where the water would originate, and then didn't daylight the drain pipe. He buried it, so it doesn't actually exit. Then, when he was supposed to the sod - he let it sit on his trailer till it was half dead. By the time he went to the sod in the yard, he never leveled the yard. He laid sod over a sea of mud that had large balls of dirt everywhere. It's like walking on moon rocks. Every time I asked about it - he said it would settle . . . .I now have a totally uneven yard, damage, and pooling water in many places where it didn't pool before. Then entire job needs to be re-done. At the end he left his huge trailer in my driveway for days. I had to threaten him to get him to remove it. I never want to see this guy again.
He says his work is "guaranteed" . . .really? He doesn't know what he's doing in the first place, so how could he possibly fix the job he botched? He has no business saying he knows anything about landscaping or drainage. He's a total imposter, posing as a contractor.



- Renee P.
A

Rating
I bought an Angie's List buy now/deals. old garbage disposal removed, hauled off, new one already purchase from amazon.com installed within 15 minutes.
- Cara H.
A

Rating
It went better than I I ever imagined.. whew!
arranged to have the marked early in the morning then showed up promptly and he and his associate did the entire job in one day..!
We had a large amount of chambered lateral tanks dug and installed, even graciously took the ...More extra dirt and relocated to an area of my back yard that had been eroding... Two Thumbs seriously up.
They regraded the yard after the installation and offered to come back and regrade after the yard has settled...Totally professional.
- Bo and Tracy M.
B

Rating
They did a lot of work. The work was good except that you need to keep an eye on the workers. You should be at home when they are working. The supervision was good. The owner guaranteed his work and you ?t have to give him money until it?s done, which is extraordinary. You really feel nice about his work. A lot of people are ...More nervous about giving money in the beginning itself because you may never see them again. He was recommended to me by somebody who was doing an energy audit that I trusted. So this work was kind of part of the energy audit. The workers dug up the flagstone path to move the gutter out to the street and when they put it back, they just put the flagstone on top of the mulch. Flagstones are supposed to be even with the soil and not just laying on top of it. So they had to do it again just because there was no supervision for that job.
- CONSTANCE J.
A

Rating
I had recurring problems with tree roots blocking my drain. Finally it got too bad to simply rod it out anymore,the line was diagnosed as broken. I was referred to by somebody else on Angie's List (can't remember who). They came out within a week after I hired them. Although the job turned out to be more difficult than ...More originally thought they still managed to complete most of the work in one day and came back the next day to clean up.
- Thomas L.
D

Rating
They spent the first morning digging up the side yard before realizing the sewer line came from the front of the house. Due to the time expended digging in the wrong place, they were unable to reconnect the sewer that day so we had an open trench and open sewer that night until late the next morning. He said he would put down rock beneath the new pipe ...More to keep the line from bowing but did not order rock for the job. When pressed he (in his words) stole some of the ornamental rock from the yard to use. He had said he would do his best to have everything back as close as possible to being the way it had been but left with the ground in very rough shape. He promised to put down (I forget if it was plastic or burlap) to stem erosion of all the surplus dirt and to put up a to keep mud from sliding onto the adjacent sidewalk. Neither of these were done.
- Larry H.

Excavators in Kansas City

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

"KCS" Kansas City Sunrooms, Room Additions

7900 NW 100th Street
Kansas City

1-800-GOT-JUNK?

1639 SOUTHWEST BLVD

221 Construction LLC

1050 W Innovation Dr
Kearney

4T Total Lawn Inc

10960 Eicher Dr

A2D Landscape & Design

21316 E 51st St S
Blue Springs

AA Construction

PO Box 945

ABLE LANDSCAPING CO

4706 EMERY AVE
Kansas City

Advocate Master Plumbing

707 Northwest 16th Street
Blue Springs

All About Concrete

118 N. Conistor Ln
Liberty

Allan D Surber LLC

517 North East Golfview Dr.
Blue Springs

ALLIANCE CONCRETE CONSTRUCTION

619 S MAIN ST
Grain Valley

AMERICAN DEEP FOUNDATION

7608 N KANSAS AVE
Kansas City

AP Custom Works

24601 SR 92
Excelsior Springs

Arrow Circle Electric, Inc.

7801 Blue Ridge Blvd.
Kansas City

Atlantis Drainage Solutions

15640 E US Hwy 40
Kansas City

Ault Design and Construction

1212 SE Broadway Dr
Lees Summit

B & J CONSTRUCTION INC

6310 NE 68TH TER
Kansas City

BAKKEN'S RAYVIEW CONSTRUCTION

9615 E 63RD ST
Kansas City

BALDWIN PROPERTIES INC

8901 N Brighton Ave
Kansas City

BALLARD WM R EXCAVATING

7001 N BENTON CT
Kansas City

BASH EXCAVATING

9373 NW MOORE RD
Kansas City

BEAVER CONSTRUCTION

11310 GRANDVIEW RD
Kansas City

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing

7748 Troost Ave
Kansas City

Bennett Home Improvement & Building

708 NW R D Mize Rd
Blue Springs

BMI Construciton

1105 s prospect
Kearney

Breckenridge Builders Inc

2315 W 104th Terrace

Brett KisnerConcrete

1813 ne 4th
Blue Springs

BRULEZ FOUNDATION INC

83RD ST & HIGHWAY 7
Kansas City

C & C Contracting LLC

609 NE Adams Dr
Lee Summit

Carpentry on the Level

203 N Fairview Ave
Liberty

CIVIL CONSTRUCTION MGMNT

106 E PEARL ST
Harrisonville

Classic Tree Care

18450 W 367th Street

Dave Nathan

7702 E 83 St.
Kansas City

Decker Lawn & Landscaping

900 Sunset Ave
Liberty

DEPENDABLE HAULING

3301 NE 37TH TER
Kansas City

DONE RIGHT CONTRACTING

7668 Norwood St

DREDGE AMERICA INC

9555 NW HIGHWAY N
Kansas City

E & S EXCAVATING LLC

9300 HOLMES RD
Kansas City

E L TREE & LAWN

399 NE AMORY RD
Smithville

FAB ELECTRIC & TRENCHING LLC

8306 E 235TH ST
Peculiar

Foundation 1

5616 Raytown Rd
Raytown

Foundation Guy Inc

1712 SW New Orleans Avenue
Lees Summit

Full Features Nursery Inc.

13518 N Hwy 169
Smithville

GEORGE DUSSELIER FOUNDATION

13601 LOOKOUT DR
Kansas City

Golconda Group LLC

735 Southwest Blvd.

GOLD'S CONCRETE CONSTRUCTION

8021 N MATTOX AVE
Kansas City

Gordon Energy & Drainage

15735 S Mahaffie St

Gradex Company

20809 S. Coleman Rd
Peculiar

Grant Renne & Sons Inc

1200 E 8th St
Kansas City

GRAVEL MAN

10110 E TRUMAN RD
Independence

GREEN DECONSTRUCTION

9127 N. Bellefontaine
Kansas City

GRT PLUMBING

19058 W 319TH ST

H & H Septic Service Inc

30 Village Circle Dr
Platte City

H & H SEPTIC SVC INC

10350 NW RIVER RD
Kansas City

HAAKE FOUNDATIONS INC

PO Box 18515
Kansas City

Hammer Down

33700 E. Oak Hill School Rd.

HANK DUSSELIER FOUNDATION CO

12701 OUTER BELT RD
Kansas City

Horizontal Earthworks LLC

218 NW Shamrock Ave
Lees Summit

HOY EXCAVATING LLC

11500 NW AMBASSADOR DR
Kansas City

HQ Services

PO Box 8585
Kansas City

Infinity Home Innovations

1001 NE 83rd Street
Kansas City

Infinity Home Innovations

7905 N Broadway Ave
Kansas City

J C CONSTRUCTION

8701 NW CREST DR
Kansas City

J&A concrete finishers

1118 E Sleepy Hollow Dr

Jim King's Manicured Lawn & Landscape

6436 E Truman Rd
Kansas City

John Marr's Bobcat Svc Inc

26609 S Redbud Rd
Freeman

K Grego LLC

9502 Jacob Ln
Lees Summit

K&K Concrete Construction LLC

1150 Blue Bird Ln
Liberty

K.E. Smith construction

8631 N. Kansas Ave.
Kansas City

Kansas City Master Companies Inc

13501 Arrington
Grandview

KC Pro

1616 N Corrington Ave
Kansas City

LEATH & SONS

11606 E 67TH ST
Kansas City

Leath & Sons Inc

9301 E 63rd St
Raytown

LEO CONCRETE CONSTRUCTION

1221 SE Broadway Drive.
Lee's Summit

Lews Concrete Const LLC

1907 Joe Ln
Kearney

Lumberjack Construction Inc.

9431 Somerset Drive

M & M TOTAL CONSTRUCTION

4917 N Central
Kansas City

May Development Co

4325 Troost Ave
Kansas City

MCGHEE CONCRETE

301 SE Alexandria
Lees Summit

Measure Twice Restoration LLC

8011 Paseo Blvd.
Kansas City

Nelson Eddy Construction Inc

25410 E St Rt EE
Harrisonville

Noble General Contracting llc

7701 NW PRARIE VIEW RD
Parkville

NorthSide Plumbing

975 Swift Ave
Kansas City

Olson Foundation Repair

905 W 100th Terrace
Kansas City

PG Plumbing & Backhoe Service llc

7424 NW Oak Drive
Kansas City

PHIL GRAY FOUNDATION REPAIR

8808 E 83RD ST
Kansas City

PierMagic Foundation Specialists

13024 2nd St
Grandview

PMI MIDWEST

18175W156THST

POOR JOHN'S PLUMBING

Kansas City, MO
Kansas City

Pro Foundation Technology Inc

5525 Raytown Rd
Raytown

Pro Paving & Sealcoating

1217 Nw Scenic Dr Grain Valley
Grain Valley

Projectquote LLC

7123 west 95th street

Reddi Services Inc

4011 Bonner Industrial Dr

ReTouch Design-Build-Renovate

6025 Metcalf Lane, Suite 310

RICE PLUMBING SEWER & DRAIN

5401 Raytown Road
Kansas City

RODMACHER BROTHERS EXCAVATING

2181 CAMPBELL ST
Kansas City

Roseburrough Landscaping

7647 Grand Ave
Kansas City

S & M Excavating LLC

801 S Park St
Garden City

Select Grounds Services Inc

PO Box 244, 30001 E 58 Hwy
Pleasant Hill

Sewer Surgeon LLC

33177 W 87th Cir

SHAW & SONS EXCAVTG & HAULING

6604 WINNER RD
Kansas City

Signature Residential Concepts

1416 Hanover
Independence

Snake 'n' Rooter

3370 NE Ralph Powell Rd
Lees Summit

SOMALI FOUNDATION INC

1101 Euclid Ave
Kansas City

STEVE WILLIAMS ASPHALT

8612 NOLAND RD
Kansas City

Stroebele Landscape, Inc

P.O. Box 32298
Kansas City

Supreme Green KC, LLC

12770 Santa Fe Trail Dr.

TEAM EXCAVATING LLC

12805 FROST RD
Kansas City

The Leaky Cellar

4741 Central Street
Kansas City

The Plumbing Pro

12519 Blue Ridge
Grandview

The Yardist

2420 NW Leann Drive
Blue Springs

TJ's Tree Services

1806 swift
North Kansas City

TLC Construction & Dev. Inc.

106 SW. Rosehill Rd.
Lone Jack

TOM'S SEPTIC SVC

9825 NW HILLSBORO RD
Kansas City

Tope Plumbing

8225 W 91St Terr

W & L EXCAVATING WRECKING

1908 MONTGALL AVE
Kansas City

Walker Concrete

717 S 11th St

WAYNE VOLLMER CONSTRUCTION CO

1617 MAIN ST
Kansas City

Wilson Concrete & Construction LLC

2632 Six Mile Church Rd
Independence

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