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Drain Pipe Contractors to Avoid

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Top Rated Drain Pipe Contractors

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Kansas City Drain Pipe Contractors from people just like you.

F
"They did not know what they were doing and installed everything wrong. I live on a hill and because the driveway was not done correctly it caused flooding that" was washing away the dirt along the driveway. I contacted them about it and they wanted to charge me to fix their mistakes and then when I asked them for their insurance information to make a claim they refused to give it to me. I would not use them for concrete work or a french drain installation.

-Adrien S.

A
"He arrived on time and after more digging than planned he found the sewer line and put his camera in to determine where the break was. The line was over 7 feet" deep, which is more than usual, but the real problem was the huge amount of large limestone chunks that had to be removed in addition to dirt and tree roots. His excavator is plenty powerful and small enough to go between most houses. He also has a Bobcat loader and dump truck. He stuck to his bid even though it took longer than planned. The big hole was backfilled and leveled out nicely, ready for a little raking and some grass seed. In the past has also delivered gravel to other of my properties. His truck is small enough that it should not damage driveways.

-STEVEN L.

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Local Articles in Kansas City

Man working on sewer line

Why Dig? Trenchless Sewer Line Replacement Bypasses the Backhoe

Pipe lining and bursting replacement techniques offer alternatives to sewer line excavation.

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Sewer and Main Drains

Find solutions to various household sewer problems including drain pipe replacement, using chemical drain cleaners and how to fix a clogged drain.

Few kitchen appliances get as much use as the garbage disposal. And over the years, common issues such as jamming and leaking can occur. However, a disposal not operating properly or maintained can break down and cause plumbing issues - leading to costly repairs.

Basement bathroom

You'll need this if you install a basement bathroom.

plumber with camera in sewer pipe

Several times a year, customers with clogged sewers find out someone else should foot the plumbing bill.

Do you have flood insurance? How about additional coverage for sewer backups? If you don’t know the answers, review the details of your home’s insurance policy. (Photo courtesy of Woodard's Cleaning & Restoration Services)

If your basement has ever flooded or been damaged by water, you know just how stressful a flood can be. Follow these simple tips to help keep your basement dry.

Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Kansas City

F

Rating
TERRIBLE! Run for your life! This guy says he knows how to do things & does not. He describes a job at the outset, and then doesn't do it at all the way he originally described. Instead of hand digging a trench to install the drain, he dug up my entire back yard, side yard, and damaged the front yard with his bobcat. once the yard was ...More a sea of mud, I had to let him continue till it was covered up just to have a somewhat serviceable yard for my dogs to use.
He didn't put gravel around the pipe, never covered up the original t-pipe he put in where the water would originate, and then didn't daylight the drain pipe. He buried it, so it doesn't actually exit. Then, when he was supposed to the sod - he let it sit on his trailer till it was half dead. By the time he went to the sod in the yard, he never leveled the yard. He laid sod over a sea of mud that had large balls of dirt everywhere. It's like walking on moon rocks. Every time I asked about it - he said it would settle . . . .I now have a totally uneven yard, damage, and pooling water in many places where it didn't pool before. Then entire job needs to be re-done. At the end he left his huge trailer in my driveway for days. I had to threaten him to get him to remove it. I never want to see this guy again.
He says his work is "guaranteed" . . .really? He doesn't know what he's doing in the first place, so how could he possibly fix the job he botched? He has no business saying he knows anything about landscaping or drainage. He's a total imposter, posing as a contractor.



- Renee P.
A

Rating
Technicians excavated connection point with city easement. They jackhammered the concrete in the basement floor to have access to the sewer pipe. They inserted the new pipe by pulling it through the old sewer pipe. This method is called trenchless pipe bursting.
- GARY F.
A

Rating
We contacted in early June just after we had experienced flooding in our basement after unusually heavy rains. He came out soon after to give us a proposal to divert runoff away from the house. He projected that it would be August before he could get to our job, which was fine with us. On the scheduled day, four workers arrived ...More around 9:30 and worked nonstop until the project was finished. came later in the day to inspect and give more instructions. At the end of the day, we had a swale cut across the yard, a downspout directed into a French drain, dirt mounded up against the foundation and covered with landscape fabric, and a retaining wall rebuilt and enlarged to form a detention basin. The machine that was used to carry rock and soil made many trips across the yard and pretty well destroyed the grass in its path, but that was unavoidable. There was no mess to clean up afterwards. I later seeded the swale area with grass and will plant other things in the detention area next spring. I covered the landscape fabric next to the foundation with rock. We have had only one heavy rain since the work was done, and no water came into the basement, but that wasn't a conclusive test. We have had flooding only 3 or 4 times in 15 years in this house, so we may have to wait a while to get a real test. We think that the landscaping will probably solve the problem.
- Lisa C.
N

Rating
I had an excellent experience from the start to the finish of this project. My interaction with several staff members was pleasant and professional. An onsite inspection of my area was performed instead of an over-the-phone quote that other companies provided. They were prompt to the job site and constantly communicated status ...More of activity during the entire process. The installation team performing the work was polite, friendly, professional, and experienced. Their positive attitudes caught my attention quick. Team oriented. I appreciated them being very cautious, careful, and considerate of the surrounding areas of my home. I would definitely recommend to my friends and family.
- Derrick S.
A

Rating
we had so much rain that delayed the start date several times. We had an inch of rain the first night and the owner stopped the next morning and said he wanted to make some changes to the slope of the yard. It took two more days to finish the grading and we have not had any water problems since that was done. I was impressed that the owner came by ...More and recommend the changes and did the grading in a timely manor.
- Ed M.
A

Rating
We have had chronic problems with water damage on the end of our house. Previous contractors have done poor repairs which only made the issues worse. traced the problem to a gap between the exterior foundation wall and the siding, which was allowing water to come in under the flooring and caused the existing tile to buckle. His ...More renovations have fixed the damage and corrected the leak: the last good rainstorm left us high and dry. Very nice job all around.
- SANDY K.
N

Rating
I used to waterproof the house. They recommended an extra tough Watchdog sealant, french drains, and a sump pit (just in case). The salesman was very knowledgible. He said if the sump pit ever had water in it, just call and they'd be right out to put in the pump. We ended up having three leaks. One was in the corner ...More of the foundation and two in the suspended garage area. It look like the cement guys didn't do a good job, it was way above the waterproofing. Actually, none of the leaks were 's fault. I called and a guy came by the next day ( just like they told me they would). They sealed the foundation and the garage area. That was over 8 years ago. The installer was knowledgible and nice. we've never had water in the sump pit. we've never had a leak at the other two places either. I would recommend for all your needs. They performed just like you'd expect: They told me what they were going to do, when they were going to do it, and did exactly that. I only wish my plumber and HVAC companies were that good.
- jeff D.
B

Rating
They did a lot of work. The work was good except that you need to keep an eye on the workers. You should be at home when they are working. The supervision was good. The owner guaranteed his work and you ?t have to give him money until it?s done, which is extraordinary. You really feel nice about his work. A lot of people are ...More nervous about giving money in the beginning itself because you may never see them again. He was recommended to me by somebody who was doing an energy audit that I trusted. So this work was kind of part of the energy audit. The workers dug up the flagstone path to move the gutter out to the street and when they put it back, they just put the flagstone on top of the mulch. Flagstones are supposed to be even with the soil and not just laying on top of it. So they had to do it again just because there was no supervision for that job.
- CONSTANCE J.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Kansas City

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

$49 Handyman

3411 W 77th Terrace

221 Construction LLC

1050 W Innovation Dr
Kearney

4T Total Lawn Inc

10960 Eicher Dr

A & S Solutions

Kansas City

A Handyman & A Greenthumb

30893 W 152nd St
Excelsior Springs

A-1 Construction

2435 N 68th Place

A2D Landscape & Design

21316 E 51st St S
Blue Springs

Above and Beyond Tree Care LLC

1111 West 41st Street
Kansas City

Advocate Master Plumbing

707 Northwest 16th Street
Blue Springs

AE Landscape Solutions

5408 Brownridge Dr

Affordable Home Repair LLC

7209 N Troost Ave
Kansas City

All Concrete Inc

16909 S Graham
Pleasant Hill

All Pro Plumbing

1213 N. Old Mill Rd.
Independence

All Season Renovations

1501 S Maywood Ave
Independence

All-n-One Plumbing & Drains

PO Box 520811
Independence

Almighty Lawn Care, LLC

14017 S. Raintree Dr

American Lawn & Landscape Inc

7600 N Church Rd
Kansas City

Andrew Taylor Construction, LLC

1128 S 4th Street
Platte City

Anthony Weir Plumbing & Remodel LLC

8404 E 105th St
Kansas City

Atlantis Drainage Solutions

15640 E US Hwy 40
Kansas City

B & L Plumbing Service Inc

301 NW Central St
Lees Summit

Barnds Companies

10000 W 135 St

Beemer Plumbing

814 E Main Street

Cady Companies Inc

14795 S ALDEN ST

CG HISHAW CONSTRUCTION INC

P.O. BOX 140462
Kansas City

Chilsons Lawn and Landscape

7458 NW Rhode Ave
Kansas City

CKM Plumbing

605 Northeast 118th Terrace
Kansas City

Collins Plumbing LLC

9203 Noland Rd
Kansas City

Cornerstone Foundation Repair LLC

7201 Central St
Kansas City

CPS Foundation Repair

9928 Taylor Dr

Creek Tree Service Inc

606 S Grant Street

Dave Nathan

7702 E 83 St.
Kansas City

DECK WORKS

22607 W 59th St

Double Eagle PTM

Kansas City

DRAINS & THINGS

1032 N. 21ST PL

Dry Basement Foundation Repair

5121 E Front St
Kansas City

Eagles Nest Landscape & Remodeling

7911 N Poplar Ct
Kansas City

ELY SIDING CO

1800 S. Berry Ct.
Independence

Exterior Decorators

6574 Kaw Drive

Foundation 1

5616 Raytown Rd
Raytown

Foundation Guy Inc

1712 SW New Orleans Avenue
Lees Summit

FOXYCOXYLLC

P.O. Box 542
Lexington

Franklin Werner Construction LLC

Plaza Area
Kansas City

Full Nelson Plumbing

1628 N. Corrington Avenue
Kansas City

Gecko Landscape Creations, LLC

5701 N Beaman Ave
Kansas City

Genesis Plumbing

6935 Woodson Rd
Raytown

Gercken Construction Company

137 N Stewart Rd
Liberty

Gordon Energy & Drainage

15735 S Mahaffie St

Grant Renne & Sons Inc

1200 E 8th St
Kansas City

Green Grass Lawn & Sprinklers

11 S Whitney St
Claycomo

GRT PLUMBING

19058 W 319TH ST

Hammer Down

33700 E. Oak Hill School Rd.

Horizontal Earthworks LLC

218 NW Shamrock Ave
Lees Summit

HQ Services

PO Box 8585
Kansas City

Hydro Physics Pipe Inspection

7823 N Park
Kansas City

Hydro-Tech Plumbing Services, LLC

P.O. Box 2342
Platte City

Hydrowerx Inc

1025 West 71st Ter
Kansas City

Icscom LLC

8808 W 119th St

J & B ASPHALT PAVING CO LLC

6001 SAINT JOHN AVE
Kansas City

J C PLUMBING

4915 N Beacon Ave
Kansas City

J.J's Contracting

19400 E. 37th Terr. Ct. S #106
Independence

Jamison Plumbing & Home Services LLC

304 E. 11th Street
Kearney

jandjcontractingllc

1526 N McCoy St
Independence

John Marr's Bobcat Svc Inc

26609 S Redbud Rd
Freeman

JOHN R LESAN PLUMBING & HEATING CO

11803 S. SPAINHOUR RD
Lone Jack

Johnson County Home Service Plumbing

4011 Bonner Industrial Drive

Kansas City Master Companies Inc

13501 Arrington
Grandview

Kansas City Power Washing & Home Repairs

4140 Prospect Ave.
Kansas City

KC Metro Renovations

58 T Street
Lee's Summit

KELLER'S LANDSCAPING

15640 E US HIGHWAY 40
Kansas City

Lawn & Landscape Solutions

15680 S. Keeler Terr.

LawnBoys Mowing LLC

9810 Kessler St

Lutz Plumbing Inc

23712 W 83rd Ter

Malnar Remodeling

7415 stearns

Midwest Underground

1829 North 18th Street

Miller's Heritage Landscape

5956 NW Hwy 9
Parkville

Natural Balance Paint Co

602 n.e.73rd terrace

Neville Haynes Masonry

1933 N 73rd Terrace

Nick Triano Plumbing

1650 Madison Ave
Kansas City

Olshan Foundation Repair

6003 Arlington Ave
Raytown

PG Plumbing & Backhoe Service llc

7424 NW Oak Drive
Kansas City

Phillips Plumbing

4116 E 35th st
Kansas City

PierMagic Foundation Specialists

13024 2nd St
Grandview

Platinum Outdoor Concepts

PO Box 15692, Lenexa KS, 66285

POOR JOHN'S PLUMBING

Kansas City, MO
Kansas City

Prestige One Landscaping

3415 Maywood Ct
Independence

Pro Foundation Technology Inc

5525 Raytown Rd
Raytown

Pro Paving & Sealcoating

1217 Nw Scenic Dr Grain Valley
Grain Valley

Projectquote LLC

7123 west 95th street

Pryor Mechanical

221 NW 180th Street
Smithville

Quality Hardscape Construction

706 S. Logan Ave.
Independence

QUALITY PLUMBING INC

1731 HOWELL ST.
North Kansas City

R & S Lawn

106 James St
Smithville

Reddi Services Inc

4011 Bonner Industrial Dr

Reisner Lawn Care

17203 E 44th Terrace Ct S
Independence

ReTouch Design-Build-Renovate

6025 Metcalf Lane, Suite 310

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1550 Liberty St
Kansas City

RW Lawnworks

PO Box 344

Samson Irrigation

9909 N Donnelly Ave
Kansas City

SamuelCole & Company llc.

3711 Genessee St
Kansas City

SCOTT BLY & CO

2940 S 46TH ST

Segers Properties LLC.

7221 Troost Ave.
Kansas City

Select Grounds Services Inc

PO Box 244, 30001 E 58 Hwy
Pleasant Hill

Sewer Surgeon LLC

33177 W 87th Cir

Snake 'n' Rooter

3370 NE Ralph Powell Rd
Lees Summit

Sonrise Lawn Care

10718 E 71st Ter
Kansas City

Sterling Industries

Blue Springs

Stewart Bunn

8101 Hadley

Stine-Nichols Plumbing Inc

318 E 16th Ave
Kansas City

Stonebridge Outdoor LLC

PO BOX 496
Raymore

Stouder Improvements

5910 N Euclid Ave
Kansas City

Suburban Home Services

312 E. 78th Terrace
Kansas City

Summit Lawn & Landscape

12020 Grandview Rd
Grandview

Superior Plumbing & Gas‎

8426 Clint Dr
Belton

Sure-Flow

11944 W 95th St

Teacher's Landscaping

5431 Charlotte St
Kansas City

The Leaky Cellar

4741 Central Street
Kansas City

The Plumber LLC

6916 Hardsaw Road
Oak Grove

The Plumbing Pro

12519 Blue Ridge
Grandview

The Yardist

2420 NW Leann Drive
Blue Springs

TLC Lawn Care Inc

19600 W 159th St

Tope Plumbing

8225 W 91St Terr

Uttley Construction

120 S Darrowby Dr
Raymore

Val Gross Plumbing

603 East 23rd St
Independence

Vaughan Mechanical Service

4220 NE 34th Street
Kansas City

Walker Concrete

717 S 11th St

Wilson Concrete & Construction LLC

2632 Six Mile Church Rd
Independence

Winkler’s Lawn Care & Landscape

PO Box 1045
Platte City

Yardworks Nursery and Landscape Supply Inc

7009 Steward Rd
Pleasant Valley

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