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Jacksonville Insulation Contractors from people just like you.

"I was very disappointed in the $165 energy audit performed by . While the provider was very communicative and punctual, those are the only" positive things I can say about my experience. He was in my home for approximately 90 minutes. He brought a thermal gun to show me where my heat/airconditioning loss is occurring. Using the thermal gun, he was able to show me that the incandescent lights are hot and should be replaced with CFL or bulbs when possible. He advised me to point my air-conditioning ducts straight towards the floor to maximize the air flow. He told me that my air conditioning units are good after seeing the indoor unit. He looked at the indoor units for less than 30 seconds and did not look at the outdoor units at all. I was also provided an estimate for two kinds of insulation if I chose to add it to my attic. He gave a very good description of the differences between the insulation types. In conclusion, I felt that $165 was a very expensive way to find out that I should change my light bulbs and add consider adding insulation to my attic.

-Savio D.

"I called their office several times on Tuesday to inquire about getting a free estimate for spray foam attic insulation. Had to leave a message on an auto-attendant" voicemail service since no one ever answered the phone. Owner called me back on his cell phone shortly thereafter. I explained that I wanted to schedule an appointment for getting an attic insulation estimate and the owner was rather with me and told me to "hold on" while he talked to someone else in the vehicle with him. When he came back on the phone with me all he wanted was my street address and said he'd would look up my property online and email me an estimate...without bothering to come on site to inspect the job or discuss with me the specifics of what I was looking for. Three days later I'm still waiting on the "estimate" email. I called back again today and left another detailed message on their voicemail service. No return call from this company. Their customer service rates a total failure. I will not bother using this company even if they were the cheapest bidder due to their very poor customer service. They may do good work but I will never know given these circumstances.

-Kevin J.

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Local Articles in Jacksonville

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

foundation installation

Insulating the outside of your foundation can help lower energy bills and keep your house warmer in winter.

Radiant barrier in attic

HVAC systems work more efficiently with the addition of a reflective barrier as part of your attic insulation.

Angie's Answers


Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Jacksonville


The installation crew showed up right on time, and finished the whole attic before it was time for me to go to work! Nice guys that did their best to keep the house clean. Some smudges were left on the attic access door, but nothing that a Magic Eraser couldn't take care of.
- Clinton J.

These guys were great! They did everything I asked and more. I dealt with 3 different people and all of them were very professional. I am the type of person that annoys service workers with a lot of questions and they answered them all without any sign of being annoyed. I purchased my air handler just 3 years ago from a different company (who I will ...More never work with again), and these guys fixed it and turned it into what should have been done the first time around. I was very happy with them.
- Brian Q.

The 'Big Deal' seems to be what would traditionally be called 'False Advertising'. I was told the $149 voucher actually had no redeemable value and could only be applied to a much larger purchase, in my case about $2,500. There is no $600 service so the $149 'deal' is just a hook. After realizing the deceptive nature of ...More this deal there was no way I'd commit to a much larger purchase from this company.
- Will W.

It went great. Most of their work is in the Palm Coast area but they worked us in as their last customer in the afternoon, a few days after we first contacted them. Our tenant had complained that the a/c wasn't working properly but we were informed when the a/c was inspected that we needed insulation. My husband met them at our rental property. ...More While they were in the attic they noticed a torn piece of the ductwork which we were able to repair. A few days later the tenant let us know how much cooler the apt was. They were prompt, efficient and did a great job! I'd recommend them to anyone.
- lynne P.

First, I was pressured at my local Ace Hardware store to submit my contact information for an energy audit. Against my better judgment, I gave in. Then I was hounded with phone calls for weeks to schedule an energy audit. I eventually caved again.
The inspector was professional and thorough in conducting the audit, but refused to proceed with ...More a cost estimate for installing windows and gutters because the MAN of the house was not home during the inspection. The inspector asked to schedule a meeting at which my husband would be present. My husband refused because this seemed like a very SEXIST business practice. Later, I received several phone calls urging me to schedule, but the company refused to proceed without my husband. My husband and I are both owners on the .
- Amy M.

The experience was overall enjoyable and somewhat informative. I'm not sure if it is worth $111 though, well at least the inspection I got. Maybe the rest of the house is in good condition but it did feel like the visit was more to sell insulation than to inspect the house. However, with that being said, I did go with this company for spray ...More foam insulation and I was pleased with that experience too.
- Sean D.

This is the 2nd time I have used for my needs. 's team came in and provided window tinting over my large 3 windows in the front of the house which now has made a very quick impact on temperature coming through these windows. is talented when it comes to evaluating what types ...More of upgrades will provide you the biggest bang for the buck. He can calculate the time for you to get a return on your investment based on a very precise and educated experience level. treated my attic to a generous level of a spray foam package that allows you to go in the attic even on the hottest days and allowing the temperature to be only slightly above the temperature in the house. This is amazing on the difference it has made in keeping our house more comfortable and saving me money. also completed a energy audit and helped me come up with some great ideals how to save money and sort them out on least expensive to most expensive options in which I have already incorporated several of these great ideals. I am actually having my plastic bubble skylights changed out at his suggestion this Thursday which should also help make a big difference in sunlight shining in which previously had a temperature of 130 degrees which was radiating into the house. I am very impressed with his company but his business has increased due to the number of customers asking him to come back and provide more upgrades. If your looking for a honest guy that will treat you right this is the guy to call. Total professional team of employees here. I have ask him to give me a quote for a solar hot water heater which I am hopefully planning this for my next big upgrade.
- Mark O.

Overall, this was a very positive experience. I feel the company represents themselves well. I had an estimate by another company and, I can say, the professionalism and care taken by is head and shoulders above that competitor. The character of the people who worked the jobs over the course of the weekend were respectful ...More and courteous. It was the little things that meant a lot like taking there shoes off before walking through the house for inspections or adjustments without being asked. The company talks about finding the right people for the job and I think they have succeeded in that goal. Everyone was extremely pleasant and hardworking. I can't wait to see how the new insulation in my 1927 Avondale home will perform in the hot summer months to come.
- Sean D.

Insulation Contractors in Jacksonville

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A to Z Services LLC

12805 Old Field Landing Dr

A. R. Colley Construction, Inc.

512 18th St N
Jacksonville Beach

ABC Windows and More

6684 Columbia Park Dr S







Adkins Remodeling

5759 Arlington Rd.

Advanced Energy Auditors Inc.

13741 Harbor Creek Place

Air Engineers Service Experts

8475 Western Way

Air Excellence Installation & Service Inc

3813 Bald Eagle Ln

Airodyne Technologies

2450 Gladiolus Av.

All Care Maintenance & Repair

P O Box 50528
Jacksonville Beach

All Seasons Insulation

Saint Augustine

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Solar

11497 Columbia Park Dr. W

Ancient City Construction Inc

2614 Joe Ashton Rd
Saint Augustine

ASAP Plumbing

PO Box 48070




325 Dennard Ave

Austin Berry Builders, LLC

4911 Greenland Hideaway Dr N

Ball Heating and Air Conditioning llc.

p o box 23625

Benton Integrity Roofing Systems

5570 Florida Mining Blvd

Billy Fife Drywall Inc

1688 Hereford Rd




5570 Florida Mining Blvd S #308


3811 University Blvd W Ste 14



C Zornes Builders Inc

966 Alpine Ridge Ct
Orange Park


7870 Paul Jones Drive

CCI Restoration Services

1750 Emerson St

Conrad Construction Inc

PO Box 470424

Cook's Air Conditioning & Heating Specialists

3324 W University Ave

Cool Connections Inc

10142 103rd

Craft Brothers, Inc./Precision Playgrounds

5120 Damascus Road North

Critter Control of Jacksonville

5771 Mining Terrace

CS Handyman Services Group, LLC

2806 Paces Ferry Road West
Orange Park

Custom Climate Spray Foam Insulation Llc

5223 Fremont Street

Donovan Heat & Air

315 6th Ave S
Jacksonville Beach

Dubo Roofing Co

830 Kingsley Ave.
Orange Park

Dzinic General Contractors, LLC

5507 Community Oaks Ct


1178 Lake Shore Blvd


4229 N Main St

Emco Roofing

404 Beverly Ln

Energy Seal, Inc

7380 Philips Hwy
Jacksonville Beach

Ethier Home Improvement

12301 Tweedsmuir Dr # 1

Everetts Custom Renovations LLC

65071 Lagoon Forest Dr


1205 Beach Blvd #9
Jacksonville Beach

Finish Line Cleaning & Coatings LLC

10050 Camp Rd
Glen Saint Mary

First Coast Wildlife Services

351 15th Ave S. Ste. A
Jacksonville Beach

Fisette Construction & Remodeling Co.

193 19th. Street North
Jacksonville Beach

Florida Home Improvement Associates

4070 SW 30th Avenue
Fort Lauderdale



FOAM 360

620 W. YALE ST

Foam Solutions

3513 Sheldrake Drive

Galaxy Builders Inc

6684 Columbia Pk Dr S





Good Fellas Construction

2048 Game Well Rd

Green Energy Builders & Solutions

13720 Old Saint Augustine Rd

Greener Solutions Air

4453 Sunbeam Rd

Hamilton Building and Remodeling

2246 Hidden Waters Dr W
Green Cove Springs

Hammond Air Conditioning Inc

3412 Galilee Rd.

Handyman Matters of Jacksonville

2600 Seneca Dr
Saint Johns

Harrington Home Renovations

3948 3rd St S
Jacksonville Beach


1855 Cassat Ave Ste 8

Home Makeover Systems

1608 N Ronald Reagan Blvd



Hughes Custom Builders LLC

6015 Chester Circle Suite #110

HW Contracting

110 Cumberland Park Dr
Saint Augustine

Inspect-All Services

576 Sigman Rd NE

Insulation Done Wright LLC

15008 West Newberry Road

Insulation Plus Inc.

1255 Belle Ave. Suite 132
Winter Springs



Intact Construction Management Group

12920 Rocky River Rd. N,


495 Martin Rd SE
Palm Bay

J & W Heating and Air

5011 Sunbeam Rd

JBL Corporation Inc

1949 Jersey St

K8 Construction

140 North One Dr
St. Augustine,

Kayco Roofing

1966 Lakeshore Dr N
Fleming Island

King Construction Company Of Jax, LLC.

10365 Hood Rd S Ste 208

L & J Insulation Corp.

1650 Margaret St.

L&W Supply

2919 Dawn Rd

Lawrence Earley Construction, Inc.

4744 Royal Ave

Little Rascals Wildlife Specialists

762 SW Barney Street
High Springs

Lloyd's Construction and Consulting LLC

12782 Attrill Rd

Lord General Contractors Corporation

13799 Park Blvd. North


2205 Parkin Rd

M Daigle and Sons Construction

4032 N Liberty St

Maldonado Construction Services Inc.

11529 Maclay Ct


3612 N MAIN ST

McGowan's Heating & Air Conditioning

11320 Phillips Pkwy Dr. E

McNeal & White Contractors Inc

1857 Wells Rd
Orange Park

METALMAX Buildings, Inc.

PO Box 465

MOHR Historic Restoration Co

1308 Dancy St

Moran Insulation Inc

606 Hawkeye Rd.

Mr. Cool Window Tinting

1580-17 Wells Rd
Orange Park

Mr. Fix-It Handyman Service

2751 Emily Ln

Mr. Handyman Serving Greater Jacksonville

675 Kingsley Ave
Orange Park



Noble Construction Group Inc

6999-02 Merrill Rd

North Florida Insulation

4022 Loys Dr

Parallel Construction Company

4446 Hendricks Avenue


13750 WEBB RD

ProMag Energy Group A/c and Heating

2815 Bolton Rd
Orange Park

Ratner Construction and/or handyman2hire

3324 W University Ave

Rick Ricker Termite & Pest Control Inc

19220 Argus Drive
Dade City



RoofMax Corp

4237 Salisbury Rd Suite 125

Sandusky, Inc.

4000 Saint Johns Ave Ste 13C

Savior Homes Inc.

6964 Ramoth Dr.

simmons home improvement, inc

p.o. box 7461

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm


2912 DAWN RD

Snyder Heating and Air Conditioning

3401 Southside Blvd

Solstice Energy Consultants

1784 Lakeshore Dr N
Fleming Island

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Southern Grace Homes

10605 Theresa Dr

Springhill Builders LLC

PO Box 359002



Stanford Restoration

1711 Dobbs Rd
St Augustine

State Energy Conservation LLC

1250 Central Park Dr

Sterling Roofing

23 Panther Ln
Ponte Vedra

Stewart Air

221 N Hogan St. #163

Sunworks Solar

5191 Shawland Road

Superior Building

11497 W Columbia Park Dr

Tadlock Roofing

7999 Philips Hwy

Terminix - Jacksonville

4575 St Augustine Rd

The Dantzler Group, Inc.

5465 Verna Blvd

The Handyman Company

4407 Parkbreeze Ct

The Paint Company

10033 Sawgrass Dr W Ste 227
Ponte Vedra Beach

The Solar Guys

13624 S Us Hwy 441



Thigpen Heating & Cooling Inc

2801 Dawn Rd

Tier 1 Construction

13245 Atlantic Blvd

Tillman Septic Pumping Inc

108 Halsema Rd N

Tivey Construction Inc

768 Frederic Drive
Fleming Island



Touchstone Contracting Solutions Inc

223 Wandering Oaks Dr
Orange Park

TROPIC AIRE of North Florida


USA Development Group. LLC

1857 Wells Rd Suite 202
Orange Park

Vern's Insulation & Specialties

5808 Mining Trace

Wallace Contracting Services Inc.

10990 Fort Caroline Rd.,

Wameling Enterprizes LLC

11488 Cypress Bend Ct


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Waychoff’s Heating and Air Inc

PO Box 57485




PO Box 405

Window Depot USA of Jacksonville

12620 Beach Blvd

Zink's Insulation, llc

12261 Cobblefield Cir N

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